Threads

Quasimodo · Jul 1, 2014

I have a couple of questions regarding the Reikan Focal Pro.

When callibrating on my 1Dx, is it possible to have two values programmed for a non-zoom lens? When I have callibrated my 135L with the focus limiter on 1.6 meters it gives me a AFMA of +5, but when I callibrate it on the .9 meter, it gives me a value of +3. Can I have both, and will the camera recognize which setting I have on the lens?

Second, and related. How do you put in two values for a zoom lens, say the 70-200 @70 and @200?

In advance, thanks.

yakman · Jul 1, 2014

Hi,

I have both EOS M and 70D. I'm thinking whether I can share cards among them.

Google search seems suggesting it will be fine.
But I'm curious, both camera by default store CR2 files into same card and both would be IMG_xxxx.CR2
What happen if the 70D trying to write a CR2 with a same name already on the card?

Thanks

jdramirez · Jun 30, 2014

I must be going a little nuts... I'm looking at 200-400's, 300/400 f/2.8's... and I'm seeing the price tag... and I thinking... "That's not bad."

I remember fondly when I spend $100 on a 50mm f/1.8 and I thought that was a lot of money... I'm off to bed... this bug will surely pass before I wake.

scottkinfw · Jun 30, 2014

Will anybody be giving this a try?

Any opinions on this new camera? The Foveon X3 sensor to me is interesting and at least worth a free week of shooting.

Here it the link.

http://www.sigmaphoto.com/sigma-dp2-test-shoot?utm_source=Sigma%20Corp%20of%20America&utm_campaign=a2ac4ab9a4-PDN_dp2_Quattro_Test_Shoot6_24_2014&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_34bfa8ccd3-a2ac4ab9a4-50256345

Let's hear from everyone.

sek

Canon Rumors · Jun 30, 2014

HTML:

<div name="googleone_share_1" style="position:relative;z-index:5;float: right; /*margin: 70px 0 0 0;*/ top:70px; right:120px; width:0;"><g:plusone size="tall" count="1" href="http://www.canonrumors.com/2014/06/review-canon-ef-16-35mm-f4l-is/"></g:plusone></div><div style="float: right; margin:0 0 70px 70px;"><a href="https://twitter.com/share" class="twitter-share-button" data-count="vertical" data-url="http://www.canonrumors.com/2014/06/review-canon-ef-16-35mm-f4l-is/">Tweet</a></div>
<a href="http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-16-35mm-f-4-L-IS-USM-Lens.aspx" target="_blank">Bryan over at The Digital Picture</a> has completed his review of the brand new <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K8942SO/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00K8942SO&linkCode=as2&tag=canorumo-20&linkId=NUL454G4IQMXV4JR" target="_blank">Canon EF 16-35 f/4L IS</a>. I think everyone is hoping Canon has finally upped the quality of their L series ultra wide angle zoom lenses.</p>
<p><strong>Says Bryan about the new lens

</strong><em>“<span style="color: #222222;">Canon’s ultra-wide angle zoom lenses have long been very good performers. I have them and use them, but I was never overly excited by them – until now. The focal length range is not new and the max aperture in this range was already covered by another high quality lens. But, the Canon <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K8942SO/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00K8942SO&linkCode=as2&tag=canorumo-20&linkId=NUL454G4IQMXV4JR" target="_blank">EF 16-35mm f/4 L IS USM Lens</a> adds one critical feature – image stabilization. That feature alone gives this lens a huge value to me. Equally or more exciting is the image quality being delivered by this lens. If prime-lens-grade corner-of-the-frame image quality is something you appreciate in your ultra-wide angle lens, you are going to love this lens. Add a state-of-the-art AF system and the 16-35 f/4 L IS becomes a must-have lens… <strong><a href="http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-16-35mm-f-4-L-IS-USM-Lens.aspx" target="_blank">read the rest of the review</a></strong>“</span></em></p>
<p><strong>Canon EF 16-35 f/4L IS $1199: <a style="color: #900000;" href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1051475-USA/canon_9518b002_ef_16_35mm_f_4l_is.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">B&H Photo</a> | <a style="color: #900000;" href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K8942SO/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00K8942SO&linkCode=as2&tag=canorumo-20&linkId=NUL454G4IQMXV4JR" target="_blank">Amazon</a></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

alexturton · Jun 29, 2014

I have a question about afma.

I have 2 bodies (60d and 5d3). They are both calibrated to be the same and All my lenses need no afma adjustments

However I just bought a tamron 150 600. On my 5d3 it appears to near +6 on the tele end and -5 on the wide end. However my 60d seems to be fine with it.

Is this possible? Or must my tests be wrong.

TeenTog · Jun 29, 2014

Just ordered mine

jhpeterson · Jun 29, 2014

I have a 6D, which I've been using in low light situations. In recent months I've found myself frequently exploring the limits I can go and still come up with what I consider successful photos. I've very happy with the results I've been getting up to ISO6400 or so. Even what I've shot at 12800 pleasantly surprises me.
But, I got talking with a couple people who suggested I might be better off with a 5D Mk III. I'm not so concerned about its performance at lower ISOs, as I've got three 1DS Mk III bodies that I use in most all situations, but I want to get the best results when I shoot in "available darkness".
What would you suggest I do?

mackguyver · Jun 29, 2014

Here's a 100% crop of a great horned owl photo taken 9 minutes before sunrise this morning. I got better shots of the owl, but this was the first shot and it was a mere silhouette to my eyes. The bird took off right after this shot to a nearby tree and I didn't think I had even focused on the bird until I got home and downloaded my photos. I couldn't believe it!

f/2.8 1/160s, ISO 4000, EV+1, pushed ~0.25 stop in post, DxO Prime:

Mantadude · Jun 29, 2014

Hello Everyone,

I wanted to share the next installment of my Rolling in the Deep series. This time it is in Komodo Indonesia. This is a wide angle look. With a Macro version coming soon. Let me know what you think.
Enjoy
Dustin

Komodo - Rolling in the Deep - Canon 5d Mark II

Canon Rumors · Jun 29, 2014

HTML:

<div name="googleone_share_1" style="position:relative;z-index:5;float: right; /*margin: 70px 0 0 0;*/ top:70px; right:120px; width:0;"><g:plusone size="tall" count="1" href="http://www.canonrumors.com/2014/06/patent-1-03x-magnification-aps-c-viewfinder/"></g:plusone></div><div style="float: right; margin:0 0 70px 70px;"><a href="https://twitter.com/share" class="twitter-share-button" data-count="vertical" data-url="http://www.canonrumors.com/2014/06/patent-1-03x-magnification-aps-c-viewfinder/">Tweet</a></div>
As we get closer to the replacement of the EOS 7D, we’re starting to see some patents that will probably point to some features in the upcoming camera. The <a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/2014/06/patent-canon-5-layer-uv-ir-rgb-sensor/" target="_blank">recent sensor patent is interesting</a>, as well as this viewfinder patent. We had <a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/2014/06/more-eos-7d-talk-cr1/" target="_blank">heard previously about the possibility of a 1.15x</a> magnification viewfinder on the next flagship APS-C camera, which would have been equal to the size of a full frame 100% coverage viewfinder.</p>
<p>This viewfinder is slightly larger than the one on the EOS 7D.</p>
<p>A note about the sensor patent, we have heard that Canon is holding back some sensor patents until the camera is announced to the public, as all patent information is public domain. We’ll see if that turns out to be the case.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/103viewfinder.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-16808" src="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/103viewfinder.jpg" alt="103viewfinder" width="484" height="190" /></a></p>
<p><strong>Patent Information (Google Translated)</strong></p>
<ul style="color: #444444;">
<li>Patent Publication No. 2014-115451
<ul>
<li>Publication date 2014.6.26</li>
<li>Filing date 2012.12.10</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>Example 9
<ul>
<li>-3 -1 +1 Viewfinder diopter</li>
<li>Focal length f = 46.84 48.38 49.99mm</li>
<li>Eye point 22.00mm</li>
<li>1.03 1.03 1.02x magnification</li>
<li>Pentagonal prism</li>
<li>Condenser lens made of glass</li>
<li>Eyepiece lens system with the exception of the condenser lens, 4-group structure of the positive and negative positive negative</li>
<li>In turn, resin (single-sided aspherical surface), glass, resin (single-sided aspherical surface), the material is glass</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>Patent Publication No. 2014-115452
<ul>
<li>Publication date 2014.6.26</li>
<li>Filing date 2012.12.20</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>Example 1
<ul>
<li>-3.00 -1.00 +1.00 Diopter</li>
<li>Focal length f = 62.22 59.69 57.39mm</li>
<li>Eye Relief 19.9mm</li>
<li>Maximum image height 12.4mm</li>
<li>Pupil diameter φ15mm</li>
<li>Magnification 0.87x</li>
<li>Pentagonal mirror</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
<p>Source: [<a href="http://egami.blog.so-net.ne.jp/2014-06-29" target="_blank">EG</a>]</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

ScottyP · Jun 29, 2014

Personally, if I had to pick one aspect about bad image quality at high ISO to address through sensor tech, I think it would be the low detail problem rather than the grain/noise problem. It is not a slam-dunk choice, but I think the available software does a halfway decent job in smoothing out the noise artifacts, but not much good at all at supplying detail which was not captured by the camera if you intend to crop much.

In other words, it seems like a high MP sensor would solve more problems with its increased detail than it would cause with its tiny noisy pixels.

Is this completely wrong?

aleshaloginov · Jun 29, 2014

The question is whether it's profitable to use the D+ function. Recently have found it in my 6D and they say that with this thing the dynamic range of lights is much better, though there can be some extra noise in shadows.

It's called highlight tone priority.

What do you think about it, how do you use it? Any idea.

Straightshooter · Jun 28, 2014

Dear All,

A bit of a strange question but:
I have been offered a very nice looking 1D markiin for a very attractive price, but their is only one 'problem': when you look into the lensmount of the camera, the left black foamy thingie is missing (there's two of them normally....). :'(

I guess they're there to dampen the mirror coming up...?

Does anybody knows if ot having it replaced would have any effect (long term) on the functioning of the mirror? (I was kind of planning to use this camera for experimental photography were it would be used in 'burst function' almost exclusively, so the mirror would take a lot of 'abuse')

Thanks!

Gino · Jun 28, 2014

Hi,

I just purchased a Canon 70D kit with the ef-s 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM lens for my sister, and I noticed the front part of the lens has a tiny bit of play, both when the lens is retracted and extended. When I say a tiny bit of play, it is tiny, but it is still noticeable. I'm comparing the 18-135 lens to my Canon L zoom lenses, and my L lenses don't have any play at all, so that is why I'm wondering if this 18-135mm lens is defective.

Is this tiny bit of play normal for this lens, or should I exchange the lens? I took about 75 photos with the camera and I don't see any issues with the photos.

thanks

Ralph · Jun 28, 2014

After I upgraded my camera gear I am not sure anymore which camera to use for macro shots.

I have the Canon 70D (APS-C) and 6D (Fullframe). My lenses are a Canon Macro 100mm IS L 2.8 and a MP-E 65mm with the MT-24EX Twin Lite Macro flash. The latter lens I don't use so often.

I planned to use the 6D for portraits and weddings and the 70D for macros, since it has a superior AF and in difficult angles close to the ground the touchscreen focus in liveview is very helpful. But the image quality of the 6D is so superior that I now have doubts... However with the 6D I have the issue of a narrower DOF... Or is a certain lens body combonation the best way: 70D 100mm, 6D MP-E 65mm?

I typically focus on the following kind of photos - butterfly and insect macros:

soybeanpapi · Jun 28, 2014

Hi everyone I just purchased the yongnuo 622c flash trigger. I purchased it to enhance my skill with off camera flash photography. I received the unit and i used it with my canon 430 exii speedlite. I was able to use the high speed sync function on the speedlite in conjunction with the flash trigger for maybe a week. Now every time i try to use high speed sync on the speedlite off camera, it wont sync past 250 without seeing the black sync bar within my picture. Is there anything I should do differently to troubleshoot the issue?

fragilesi · Jun 28, 2014

Okay, I got this rather impressive piece of glass last week. Wonderful AF, sharpness etc but I seem to be getting a lot of aberration in the images, some examples below. Anyone have an opinion on whether I'm just being too fussy or if perhaps there is a slight problem with the lens? All images are from large raw files from a Canon 70d simply cropped to highlight the aberrations.

I do understand these are challenging subjects so am I just expecting too much?

Thanks for any advice . . .

vic20 · Jun 28, 2014

Firstly hello to all ! I am brand new poster here from Canada . Have a lurked a bit though

I have been trying my hand at DSLR photography for the last 3-4 years but only seriously for the last 10 months ( since I took at local photo course )

I am planning a short family vacation to New York ( 7 days ) and perhaps Boston (2-3 days ) ,in August . I've never been to either place before.
Of course I will be visiting the main tourist spots mainly ( whatever we can fit in)
I was hoping for some advice mainly on what gear to carry, but also some areas to do some good shooting besides the usual places .
Alot of pics of family and the famous landmarks , I also love candid photography.

GEAR
Cameras : Canon T2i , 70D
Lenses : 18-55 , 50 1.8 , 55-250 , 18-270mm PZD ( Tamron)
24-105 L IS , 70-200 L IS F4.0 , 135 L 2.0

Flash : 430 EXii
A couple of tripods and a monopod .

hpjfromdk · Jun 28, 2014

The patent app, contains four embodiments of a 21.64mm image height lens design entailing 3 lens groups (12 elements) and inner focusing. The lens configuration chosen aims to minimize Spherical & Comatic aberrations and field curvature, despite the use of the inner focusing technique. The four numerical examples have these main attributes:
1) Fl = 49.53mm, Fn = 1.45, Total length = 99.46mm
2) Fl = 35.88mm, Fn = 1.45, Total length = 126.92mm
3) Fl = 55.42mm, Fn = 1.45, Total length = 100.44mm
4) Fl = 50.75mm, Fn = 1.45, Total length = 98.17mm
The patent application claims benefit in JP2012-279048 filed 2012 Dec 21.
More details can be found here: http://www.freepatentsonline.com/y2014/0176782.html

lux · Jun 28, 2014

Going to Hawaii, big island and Oahu. It is a family trip. I will not get time to set up a tripod and take long exposure photos of stars or volcanoes etc because I will be chasing a 4 yo...among others. I will be trying to take a lot of pictures of my family all over the islands.

I will use a 6D
My gut reaction is to take the 24-70 and use that almost exclusively.

Then I thought I might want something a little wider like the 17-40...or even use it as an excuse to purchase the new 16-35 F4. Then I thought I could use the 14 2.8 samyang if I happenned to be seeing a great sunset. Then I thought what If I'm tryin to take pictures in really low light the 50 1.4 would be usefull. Of course for outdoor portraits my go to lens has been the 70-200 2.8 ii which I love so I shouldn't leave that behind. Alternatively maybe I should rent a 70-200 f4 for weight. I do have the 1.4 extender. Should I rent/buy macro?

Oh and at pearl harbor you aren't allowed any bags so I can only have one lens. Do I need a superzoom for that day...what should I get?

Lastly, I do have the tamzooka ordered...though who knows when that will arrive.

Mostly I want to take great photos of my kids in Hawaii.

any thoughts?

Gear: 6d 2ti. 14 2.8 Samyang, 17-40l, 24-70ii, 40 2.8, 50 1.4, 70-200ii, 1.4x, 55-250

jaayres20 · Jun 28, 2014

I really promise I am not trying to start an argument, I am just curious from those folks who have enjoyed cameras with high dynamic range what they think about this image. I took this at a recent wedding with my 5D3 and it was overexposed because I didn't get the settings dialed in just right from when they came out of a much darker church. So with my limited DR capabilities of my 5D3 I was able to recover everything in the photograph to the point that it looks kinda bad. Much like a bad HDR. So with more DR would the image have looked better (less HDR like and more natural) or would I have just been able to overexpose it more and still be able to recover the details in the highlights? The top is straight out of the camera and the bottom is with the highlight recover slider maxed out and the shadows bumped up.

ahsanford · Jun 27, 2014

Landscape folks,

I just ran a quick vignetting test with a new 16-35 F/4L IS with Lee Filter setup attached just now.

Method:

Used a FF rig, a 5D3 in my case.
Shot at F/9 perhaps 18" away from a large white wall. Confirmed focus once at beginning of series and then switched to MF for all shots so the lens wouldn't hunt on the bare white wall.
Used a Lee 77 wide angle adaptor ring directly on the lens' filter threads
Attached a 2-slot Foundation Kit holder with the 105mm CPL ring screwed on the front.
Ran a series with nothing in the Holder, and then ran it again with the 105 CPL attached.
Walked the FL from 16-24 in small manual increments (the gap in the ring is relatively small in between 16 - 20 and 20 - 24, so it was not an exact science.)
Cable release, tripod, LV, etc.
The CPL was a 105mm B+W Kaesemann filter (BWKCPMC105 at B&H)
The camera did not have peripheral illumination enabled, but I don't think it would have mattered as (a) there is no lens profile recognized by my 5D3 and (b) the type of vignetting this issue creates is a black and white hard obstruction.
Pulled Focal Length value from the EXIF from a Mac OS Command-I (info) pull. No idea if there is a more exact way to get the value.

Results with the CPL ring on a two-slot Lee holder but NO CPL in place:

16mm - 24mm: Clean. No vignetting.

Results with the CPL ring on a two-slot Lee holder and the CPL was in place:

16mm: Vignettes considerably. Expected.
17mm: Vignettes.
18mm: Vignettes slightly. Cloning/editing this out is only a small chore at this point.
19mm: Vignettes the smallest possible amount. A trivial fix in PS or whatever you use.
20mm - 24mm: Clean. No vignetting.

Pleasantly surprised. I thought I'd need to painstakingly disassemble my Holder down to a 'two options' variety (one slot with CPL, two slots with no CPL ring, etc.) to use this holder at all with the 16-35. But as my holder stands, I can shoot with 2 slots (no CPL) at 16mm and all three starting at 20mm. I love it.

That the only wildcards here that might differ on your FF rig with this lens are (definitely) the thickness of your CPL's front ring and (possibly) the version of your Lee Holder. Lee is known to have snuck in weird versions over the years that are ever-so-slightly different.

Hope this is helpful to you!

- A

Steve Todd · Jun 27, 2014

Just for fun, here's the latest Canon USA ad, "Bring It":

Canon "Bring It" FULL REVIEW 2014

BTW, it runs twice on this link.

Enjoy!

PureShot · Jun 27, 2014

Hi everybody ! i will invite to post your best portrait make with the Art 50mm
Yesterday , it the first time i tried the sigma 50mm, i love this lense !
Canon 6D
F1.4
100 iso
ND filter 0.9
MF
www.pureshotstudio.com

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