Which A3 photo printer? (Advice please)

I'm looking for a (A3) photo printer. I only want to use it for printing (color) photos (no other documents, I have a laser printer for that). Ofcourse the Canon Pixma-pro serie printers are very nice but a bit to expensive for me. Especially for my intended use: I just want to make some prints with (very) good quality at home for personal use. If I need the extra 'pro' quality for some reason, I can always go to a professional photolab.

Because I already own some/a lot of Canon gear I tend to buy a Canon printer (I know: this might not be the best reason, so I'm easy to convince otherwise). I'm considering the Canon iX 6550 or its succesor the Canon iX 6850. I read some (lab) reviews on the internet about these printers but I also looking for some 'user experiences'.

Are there some other (non Canon) printers to consider? Other things to keep in mind?

Sigma 50mm F1.4 Art vs Tamron 24-70mm VC USD?

As the title shows, I'm thinking of getting a walk around lens and both prices are around the same. However, I might get 200$ off the Tamron due to the presence of 2nd hand lens. The question would be: what's a good walk-around lens? I do have a wide angle already, hence I'll be looking for mid range. I plan on buying the 70-200mm VC USD later, so I guess telephoto's not the issue. Everyday usage is what I'm looking for. Budget dictates that I choose one of these. What would be my best option?

What do you hope-for MOST from Canon in 2014

I am hoping that Canon comes out with a killer mirrorless ... either a Pro EOS-M3 or a full frame, either of which should beat the Sony A7 series. Features: fast AF, awesome IQ, amazing low light, excellent video, Video AF with dual pixel, full sensor readout for video with no artifacts (moire, aliasing), excellent ergonomics, built in wifi with livestream to YouTube capability.

What product do you hope-for the most from Canon this year?

The clumsy part of me managed to drop the 7D. What should I check for?

I was out on a trip yesterday, and was standing in/at a waterfall and decided my 400/5.6L was not the proper lens to have on. Found a solid stone and made the camera balance on the lens hood, backed it up with my backpack and my leg. It didn't take more than a few seconds before the camera decided it wanted to try close-ups of some of the stones and the water - all on its own...

Lets just say that I didn't let it lay there for all that many seconds. I'm slow, but my reactions were triggered by the bouncing sound against the rock and I, probably, had my fingers on the body as soon as my expensive package stopped skidding in the mud.

Apart from brushing off all visible and easily removable sand/mud and water drops from the body and lens, what should I look out for now?

I did shoot a few frames with another lens soon afterwards, and the body seemed ok (I haven't taken the card out of the camera yet or tried downloading anything). When I got home I figured the best thing to do was to just have everything dry up, so that I can clean it properly and inspect it in a day or so.

What I have noticed is that there are scratches on the body and some colour is missing in those scratches, some finer sand particles are in between the metal and plastic on the hotshoe and near the flash. The 400/5.6L have a clearly visible dent almost as wide as a finger and it's a millimeter or two deep. The lens hood can be slid over it, and it locks (almost) as before, some wiggling and odd sound can be heard while doing so. It feels like I can do a full twist of the focus ring, and no extra noises could be heard, nor did I feel that it was stiffer to move than usual. I haven't had the nerve to try and rattle the lens - far too afraid it will make noises that equals repairs that I can't afford.

17-40 f/4L vs 16-35 F/4L

In a few months I'll be upgrading from my rebel camera to a 70D. At the same time, I'd like to invest in some nicer glass. I would like to start off by purchasing a wide angle lens, which would mainly be used for landscapes. I've done a bit of research, but I'm still a little unsure whether I should go for the 17-40 or the new 16-35. Quite frankly, I don't see whether there is a significant difference

SMC Pentax M 50mm 1.4

Hallo everyone,

after seeing the great pictures from Dustin and others with the Helios 44-2, I started looking for one on ebay and ended up with a SMC Pentax 50mm 1.4 K-mount instead. I must say: I am impressed. It produces great bokeh and as far as I can tell is pretty sharp wide open and only costed 85 Euro.

It is fully manual and it is a challenge to nail focus. Luckily, I was able to change my focusing screen to a EG-S, which really helps and the view finder in the 6D big and bright.

The build quality is really impressive and its a joy to use.

Of course, if you are reading this you'll want to see some pictures.

The following pictures are all on a 6D and all @1.4. They were shot in RAW and run through Lightroom with the default settings.

The first two are at 200 ISO and 1/200.
The third one is at 250 ISO and 1/125.

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The sharpness curse!

To me... sharpness is a curse!

Let me explain. For me, it is frustrating when I see individuals, be it on a review website, youtube channel, or forum, conduct a sharpness test on a lens and then write-off whichever lens is less sharp as the inferior lens. I have seen this happen time and time again. It is true, that some lenses may be simply bested by others, but generally sharpness is only one factor of this equation.

I do understand the importance of objective tests. With objective tests, we can determine if a lens is optically different than another lens. I struggle to say improved, as I have seen many examples of a lens that falls short on the standard array of optical tests (sharpness, falloff, CA being the ones I see most discussed) yet end up delivering subjectively fantastic results.

For a personal example, I will go back to a lens I like to discuss a lot - the 50L. This lens is by far my #1 favorite lens bar none, no comparison. If I was only allowed to have one lens, it would be the 50L. Now, I have a lot of lenses that are sharper than the 50L (i.e. 24-70 II, 70-200 II, 100L come to mind). But, there is something about their output that subjectively I do not like as much. I also love the subjective output of the 85L II, but I'd still rather have the 50L because the 85L II requires too much working distance for many photos - so with the 85L II I would miss a lot of opportunities. 50L can do pretty much everything, and make it all look beautiful.

I also find it frustrating when lenses without a red ring get ignored simply because they don't have a red ring. For instance, the new 24 IS, 28 IS, and 35 IS are all brilliant lenses. The 24 IS is one of Canon's best landscape lenses in the entire lineup, because at f/11 it is ultra sharp AND virtually free of flare even when shooting into the sun (no L can claim this) - plus it looks great subjectively and is extremely portable! If I was a landscaper, this would be a *must have* lens for me. But I often see it ignored, and I think its because its not an "L". The 35 IS is finally appearing to get some credit thankfully with pro reviews declaring it overall superior to the aging 35L 1.4, which I agree with despite both being excellent. The old 35L's bokeh just isn't as good when its not wide open - the 35L does still have a purpose for those who need f/1.4, but it really needs an update IMO.

Again, I think objective tests are important. Perhaps our tests are not yet advanced enough to fully describe a lens' output, and that is the issue. And, I do appreciate the objective tests to learn more about a lens' characteristics. But, I think that is only part of the process, and wish more "reviews" and discussions of lens quality focused an equal amount of time on subjective factors - as it appears the objective tests simply are not there yet.

But sharpness is easy to understand, easy to test, and easy to see differences in... Making it an easy thing to get hooked into and focus on almost exclusively. But remember, in the end, while some of us are documenting things where sharpness is the #1 priority, others are capturing moments in time where sharpness is not the most important factor. If you are not doing clinical work that really does require edge to edge sharpness, remember that in the end its not about sharpness - its about capturing the moment. Might save you a bit of money over time too ;)

Is my Tamron 24-70 as sharp?

A few days ago I received the Tamron 24-70 f/2.8, a very nice lens! Soon after using it I noticed the photos where not sharp at 24mm at f/2.8, so I decided to try the DotTune method; well this did not work for me. Instead I printed of a focus test chart and practiced taking photos of that. As you will see at 24mm at f/2.8 the focus is terrible, then after a lot of playing around I changed the AFMA to +14 which you can see is a lot better. I was wondering what peoples thoughts are on this, is +14 acceptable or should I send it back and get another copy? Because of this I’m now worried that this copy of the lens is not as sharp as it should be, but then I don’t know how sharp it should be, if that makes sense.

Thanks

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  • Poll Poll
7D mark 2 crop vs full frame

Would you prefer the 7D mark 2 to be a crop sensor, or a full frame sensor?

  • Crop sensor - APS-C

    Votes: 41 73.2%
  • Crop sensor - APS-H

    Votes: 12 21.4%
  • Full Frame

    Votes: 3 5.4%

I'm curious if you'd prefer the 7D mark 2 to have a crop sensor (aps-c or aps-h) or a full frame sensor. Many have stated they would be delighted if it were full frame, and others would be highly disappointed if it were anything but a crop sensor. I realize that some other factors may have an effect on your answer (possibly the MP count) but in general I think you'll have a preference, regardless of those factors.

Pareto principle

Hi guys! I maybe the only person who has never heard of Pareto principle, but I still decided to share it with you. According to Wikipedia, the Pareto principle (also known as the 80-20 rule) states that, for many events, roughly 80% of the effects come from 20% of the causes. So, how can it be related to photography gear? Well, the same principle appears to work when we buy expensive including cameras and lenses instead of the cheaper ones. So, with regard to optics, Pareto principle states that you get 80% performance of the optics for 20% of its total cost. The remaining 20% of the performance improvements will cost you 80% of the total cost of the optics. In other words, 80% of the cost of expensive optics refers to the very top 10-20% performance. I think this is pretty close to the differences in the optics quality and cost between 85 f1.8 vs. 85 f1.2L, 200 f2.0L vs. 200 f2.8L, Zeiss 100 f2.0 vs. Canon 100 f2.8L, Zeiss Otus 50 f1.4 vs. Canon 50 f1.4. This is again a very personal choice if you’re willing to pay a premium cost to get the 10-20% improvements of the optical quality.

Well, I’m sure many of you know much more about this principle and how it can be applied to the photography gear. But since it was new to me, I wanted to share this with you. Take care everybody.

Patent: Canon EF 400 f/4 DO IS

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<p>A patent for a new Canon EF 400 f/4 DO IS has appeared. The current lens has been <a href="http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/lens/ef/data/super_telephoto/ef_400_4dois_usm.html" target="_blank">around since December, 2001</a> and I think it’s a gem in the Canon lineup.</p>
<p>We’ve seen a lot of DO patents over the years, but no DO lens has been announced since June, 2004 when the <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/319783-USA/Canon_9321A002_EF_70_300mm_f_4_5_5_6_DO.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">EF 70-300 f/4.5-5.6 DO IS</a> came to market.</p>
<div id="attachment_16761" style="width: 469px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/400dopatent.png"><img class="size-full wp-image-16761" src="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/400dopatent.png" alt="Canon EF 400 f/4 DO IS" width="459" height="186" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Canon EF 400 f/4 DO IS</p></div>
<ul style="color: #444444;">
<li>Patent Publication No. 2014-109700
<ul>
<li>Publication date 2014.6.12</li>
<li>Filing date 2012.12.3</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>Example 1
<ul>
<li>Focal length f = 392.00-381.59-332.99mm</li>
<li>Fno.</li>
<li>Half angle ω = 3.16-3.10-2.81 °</li>
<li>Image height Y = 21.64mm</li>
<li>The overall length of the lens 292.02mm</li>
<li>BF 105.64mm</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
<p>Source: [<a href="http://egami.blog.so-net.ne.jp/2014-06-21" target="_blank">EG</a>]<strong> | <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/239654-USA/Canon_7034A002_Telephoto_EF_400mm_f_4_0.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">Canon EF 400 f/4 DO IS at B&H Photo</a></strong></p>

PHOTOS IN WORLD CUP 2014

Dear friends.
Some of our friends ask us about the world cup photography by Canon equipment.
After I look at the internet( about 1,000 +), I find some photos of the photographers in this world cup, that use a few Canon Big white lenses.
Enjoy
Surapon

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Marketing Fail? Forced to wear Sony vests at FIFA WC but shoot with Canon Gear

As posted at http://www.sonyalpharumors.com/marketing-fail-worldcup-photographer-wear-sony-4k-vest-but-do-shoot-with-canon/

Sony is one of the big sponsor at the Football World Cup in Brazil. Even though photographers are “forced” to wear Sony 4K advertising vests, as you can see from the 360 degree pics posted at Visualise.com, not a single one of them shoot with a Sony. It’s all about Canon (and few Nikon). Let’s hope Sony will make a real Alpha Full Frame Sports camera that will convince some of them to switch over to Sony!

:

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Gura Gear Acquires Tamrac Brands & Assets

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OGDEN, UT (June 18, 2014) – GuraGear, LLC, makers of innovative carrying solutions for discerning creative professionals has agreed to acquire the brand and assets of Tamrac, Inc. The U.S. Bankruptcy Court approved the sale through the Chapter 11, Section 363 Sale of Assets process. Tamrac entered Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection in early 2014 and has a 37 year history of developing affordable carrying solutions for photographers.</p>
<p><span style="color: rgb(25.098040%, 25.098040%, 25.098040%);">Gura Gear President, Gregory Schern stated, “this acquisition represents an exciting opportunity for Gura Gear to build upon a brand with a legacy of designing solutions for photographers and a dedicated customer following while leveraging worldwide distribution. We look forward to providing customers a high level of service and implementing solutions from a new perspective in a rapidly evolving industry.” </span></p>
<p><span style="color: rgb(25.098040%, 25.098040%, 25.098040%);">Tamrac, Inc. will continue to operate normally until the acquisition is finalized in late June. Once the transaction is complete, Gura Gear will relocate Tamrac’s assets and expand its Ogden, Utah facilities. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-style: italic; color: rgb(25.098040%, 25.098040%, 25.098040%);">Questions regarding the acquisition can be directed to </span><span style="font-style: italic; color: rgb(0.000000%, 0.000000%, 100.000000%);">[email protected]</span><span style="font-style: italic; color: rgb(25.098040%, 25.098040%, 25.098040%);">. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(25.098040%, 25.098040%, 25.098040%);">About Gura Gear </span></p>
<p><span style="color: rgb(25.098040%, 25.098040%, 25.098040%);">Gura Gear began in 2008 as an idea on the back of a napkin by a team of passionate photographers looking for the perfect photography bag. Today, Gura Gear has expanded to a full line of carrying solutions built to the highest standards utilizing only the best materials and workmanship. Gura Gear focuses on creating innovative products for discerning creative professional and enthusiast photographers who love to explore the world. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(25.098040%, 25.098040%, 25.098040%);">About Tamrac </span></p>
<p><span style="color: rgb(25.098040%, 25.098040%, 25.098040%);">Since 1977, Tamrac has offered a diverse product line to meet a wide range of travel and photographic requirements. From the first bag a beginning enthusiast will purchase to a bag suitable for the professional, Tamrac is committed to continuing to offer innovative products that are easy-to-use and understand. </span></p>
<p><strong><a href="http://guragear.com/" target="_blank">Visit Gura Gear</a></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>
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Photozone finally joins the party on reviewing the Sigma 50 F/1.4 Art

Hey all,

PZ finally got to testing the Sigma 50 Art, but for some odd reason their first review is on APS-C and not FF. I expect that to be remedied soon, but here are the crop results:

http://www.photozone.de/canon-eos/875-sigma50f14art_eosapsc?start=1

Shockingly, they found it to not suck to a very high degree. Stellar resolution numbers on their test rig (a 50D, I believe).

They did flag a small focus shift when stopping down, though -- that's the first I've heard of this.

But FYI on another highly satisfied reviewer with the 50 Art.

- A

New Sensor Tech in EOS 7D Mark II [CR2]

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We’re told to definitely expect new sensor technology to be introduced in the Canon EOS 7D Mark II. This tech will be used in all forthcoming Canon DSLRs. What is it? We’re not 100% sure yet, though we’re told it’s definitely not a foveon type technology that <a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/2013/05/patent-canon-foveon-sensor/" target="_blank">we’ve previously seen in patents</a>.</p>
<p>This may be one of Canon’s best kept secrets as it’s apparently going to be more than an “evolutionary” technology.</p>
<p>We’re filtering through a lot of emails about this new sensor tech and we’re not sure what’s true and what isn’t.</p>
<p><em>More to come… We’re not putting a [CR3] on this until we know what the new tech is.</em></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">c</span>r</strong></p>

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