I had posted this in another thread, but didn't weant to take over the htread, so I thought I'd ask the 1DX owners in this htread if the follow scenarios are good, bad, or just pain ugly? My 1 year old batteries seem to be draining quite rapidly- at least it seems that way-

I'm a landscape shooter mostly- taking other shots at rendom, but mostly landscape- I shoot on tripod, with mirror lockup and 10 second timer to allow rickety-ish tripd to settle down (I made mistake of buying a vanguard tripod- now I have tol ive with wobbly tripod till I get a real tripod) and I don't use live view except for shots that I can't see through the viewfinder becuase camera is too close to ground, or at wierd angle- these liveview shots make up around 18/14 of my shots, but I am quick to turn it off and resume viewfinder viewing to preserve charge on batteries-

I went out today and shot exactly 100 shots, in dark conditions that required long exposures from 20 seconds to 30 seconds dependign on how dark (it's very overcast, and I'm in the deep woods, shooting streams and foliage right now) I had a freshly charged battery i nthe camera- I get home, check the battry indicator, and lo and behold, it's down to 3/4 already- I'm assuming if I had shot another 100, I'd be down to aroudn 1/2 battery charge left at that rate-

This just seems like an aweful quick discharge of the battery to me? Or is this pretty much on par with other folk's experience? I remember taking my canon 7D out for days on end and shootign hte same way, mirror lockup, 10 secodn timer, live view roguhly 1/4 of the time- and coudl get several days of shooting?- I know hte 1DX uses more juice, but that much more?

I had a hair that was stuck in between the outer and inner barrel of my new 24-70 f/2.8 II. Trying to remove it with my finger proved insufficient. I got some tweezers and managed to grab the hair and pull it out.

However, using the tweezers I noticed I made some very small (tiny) scratches on the inner lens barrel.

Is this cause for concern now or down the road?

Howdy forum,
I just picked up my first white (and first L, for that matter) lens from Best Buy yesterday (I got in on the double dip deal) and boy am I happy. Yep, you guessed it: the 70-200 2.8L IS II. The build alone is worlds above anything I've owned previously. I should be shooting a concert with it next weekend, so I can let you know how I'm liking it then.

Now to the questions...

I just pooled together a TON of change from around the house and it amounted to around $200. I know, right? One idea I had since I'm still shooting with a t3i was to get a battery grip with this money, to slightly improve the massive imbalance that occurs shooting with this lens. However, I'm also getting into the RT flash system (I only have 1 600ex-rt), and the radio station I'm working for owes me $100+ for some gigs I've done lately, so another idea I had was to deal with the weight and get another 600ex-rt. I'm working out a deal with a local clothing company to do some location shooting and having another flash would certainly be handy.

Another option would be to save up for a while and get a body that will balance better with the lens and be a solid upgrade to my t3i overall. I've been considering the 70d, though in reality, it probably makes the most sense for me to simply go full frame.

So, what do you guys recommend? Any other ideas? As I mention all the time, I'm still a high school student making some money on the side with photography (as well as doing everything I can to learn). Thanks, and happy shooting!

On October 3rd, patent app. US20130258476A1 with priority in JP2012-072806 was issued
The US patent app entails 3 embodiments of a 35mm F2 lens with IS and a total lenght of 105mm (ref below).
To achieve adequate reduction of comatic aberration with an aperture of F2 during image stabilization, the IS lens is placed adjacent to the aperture diaphragm.
Emb Fl Fno ImH TotL BF
1 34,49 2,05 21,64 104,5 38,3
2 34,49 2,02 21,64 104,24 37,58
3 34,5 2,05 21,64 104,5 38,3
4 34,47 2,05 21,64 104,5 38,3
Embodiments 1,3, and 4 have good correction for spherical, astigmatic magnification chromatic aberrations, but exhibit a negatively sloping curve i.e. some degree of barrel distortion
Embodiment 2, is well corrected in terms of distortion but at the cost of lesser reduced levels of spherical, astigmatic magnification chromatic aberrations.

Further details can be found here http://www.freepatentsonline.com/20130258476.pdf

I haven't been monitoring the price for this lens since it was first released, but since I'm determined to buy one soon (brand new, planned for January), I just browsed on some of the local stores' websites here in Alberta and learned that most of them are listing the lens on sale for $1,999.99 Canadian. Okay, 2000 bucks.

Three of the local photography stores here are matching the price of its competitors (Vistek, Don's Photo, and Memory Express). I don't know if it's out of fear of customers telling them the other Vendor is selling 100 less than them and they lose out for price matching, or something is up (new stock coming?).

I also looked at the Adorama US site and it lists at the same price (US) with freebies, too.

A hole is burning in my pocket.

I could "save" $300 by buying in advance. It's hard to predict if the price goes back to 2,300 or be on "sale" for $2,199 by January.

Do you think the lens is still overpriced?

Looking forward to your opinion.

After using my new Octa from Lastolite with the "normal" straight stand I have got in a set with my much smaller Ezybox, I realized, I need something with a counterweight.
I use it with the speedlight bracket, the LL2701 for 1 or 2 speedlights.
My shortlist contains 2 versions of the Manfrotto 420: 420b or 420csu.
Will the 420b enough, or is this box too heavy and I need the 420csu?
The difference in cost doesnt matter so much as I like to buy and have fun, not fiddling around with just a bit too small/lightweight gear.
On the other way, when I have to carry this stand to another place, it would be nice to have the version with less weight.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Based on the research looks like the comet won't be the "light in the sky" everyone was hoping it was going to be

http://astronomia.udea.edu.co/cometspage/

Understand this may look like an off-site topic but there have been discussions about the comet on this site previously so just passing along the apparent bad news.

Hope they get it wrong and I'll be spending some cold nights out in the middle of nowhere.

Attempting to bring this topic back to the forum. If there are people here who do astrophotography would like reading what equipment is being used.

Hey guys, I'm looking to buy a new prime or two before I upgrade to a pro level body. I'm looking to get a 5d/ 6d or 70d/7d. I have a 28mm 1.8, 50mm 1.8, the 100mm l macro, and some lensbaby stuff. Anybody have some advice on primes that work well on both formats?

I've been thinking about the 135mm f2.

I like the 28 on my rebel

I like the 35mm and 50mm on ff.

But I'm lost at this point

I'm sure this has been asked previously, so please let me apologize for the redundancy right now.
My question is this: Can the subject lens be used with a Canon 1.4x TE III? Thank you for any advice regarding this optical lashup.
Regards,
James

Hi All,

I use Canon 5D Mark II & III and use LightRoom 4 to convert my files from RAW to JPEG for webbase viewing only thus far, but I really need your help on what size should I save my pictures from conversion should I need to print them for, say 16x24 (or larger), prints? Your help is much appreciated. Thanks!!

I have a 1XD and mostly shoot weddings. During a wedding I had a Lexar Professional 128GB 800x card and a SanDisk 64GB Extreme Pro 90mbs. I was shooting RAW to the Lexar and JPEG to the SanDisk. About 2000 pictures into the day I went to review a series of images I had just taken and could not because the camera was busy writing to the cards. I do not spray and pray so I was confused as to what was happening. The buffer never did clear and I took the risk of trying to shut the camera off. Next a spinning graphic along with the message that the camera was still trying to write 14 files to the cards came up on the LCD screen. I let it be for about 5 minutes and then felt that I had to move on with the day and wasn't really willing to stop using my 1DX. I took the battery out and put it back in and was able to review the images and sure enough I had lost the 14 pictures it was trying to write. It wasn't a huge deal because I had already retaken them with my 5D3. I was able to take pictures again but I noticed that the red buffer light stayed on continuously. I found out that the 64GB card was causing the issue so I swapped it out and continued without any issues. My question is that do you thing the issues was with the camera or card(s). I feel like I shouldn't have these issues with expensive cameras and nicer, newer cards. However I know that crap happens.

First Nikon and now Sony http://www.photographybay.com/2013/10/03/sony-nex-a7-a7r-full-frame-cameras-coming-this-month-with-24mp-and-36mp-sensors/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+PhotographyBay+%28Photography+Bay%29&utm_content=Yahoo%21+Mail
Why is Canon dragging their feet?

Hi all

I'm about to pull the trigger on getting a 5D3 and was thinking about a lens or 2 to go with it. I currently have a 60d and an 1100d with ef-s18-55, 50-250, Tamron 17-50 f2.8, Canon 70-200 f2.8 and Sigma 150-500 lenses. I currently shoot just about anything but portraits aren't a preference.

I'm going to sell the 1100 and the 2 ef-s lenses but keep the rest because it's handy to have a second body at some events and the 60d swivel screen does come in handy. Even though the 17-50 won't fit the 5D3, its still a very good lens.

The lenses I was thinking of are the 24-105 f4 and the Tamron 90 f2.8 Macro. A friend suggested the Tamron as a very good budget macro and the reviews I've read are positive but could I get away with just using the 24-105 as a macro?

My experience with the Canon mail in rebate program. This was several years ago (2003 I think) and I purchased a 16-35 2.8L, 70-200 2.8L IS, and 50 1.4 lenses. The rebates at the time were $50, $50, and $25 respectively. I very carefully filled out all paperwork as if two IRS agents were peering over my shoulder. I cut out the proof of purchase bar code rectangles from my 3 lens boxes as if I was performing a bris on live TV. I carefully taped each of those rectangles compulsively level and at the ideal reference point of each itemized rebate listing on the form I was submitting. This would avoid the separation of proof from the form as well as the dreaded upside down dilemma which may never be flipped to show my eligibility for my claim to the fabled cash I so hoped would someday be mine. I triple checked my materials and also had a trusted friend check it as well. I made a copy of all of the materials and took a moment to pray that I would not need that copy and pinned it to the wall next to my computer. Countless trips to the mailbox over the next 2 months were made in vain. I called Canon and they referred me to the "check on your rebate" info on the form. They had no information from me on file. It was time to send in my copy of all materials with an added note to let them know why I was submitting copies of everything. Several weeks later I received a small piece of mail that was my rebate! I opened it to find that they had mistakenly interpreted the terms of the rebate to be that only one rebate per household and you guessed it. They sent me the $25 rebate for the 50 1.4. I called Canon and told them everything. They had a rep contact me and he had me email everything I had sent in as well as photos from the 3 lens boxes with the missing cardboard. Ten days later, I received the other rebates. Although my experience may not be typical, it has made me leery of getting involved in another rebate fiasco. My understanding is that Canon contracts a separate company to handle the mail in rebates. The same person that is making the call on how to process your request is processing a baby stroller rebate before yours and a vita-mix rebate after yours. They all have different terms and mistakes are going to happen. If you are wiling to fight for it, you will persevere. How bad do you want that rebate?

Hey guys, haven't been on here in a while, I need a recommendation on where to go next.

Body: rebel xs: upgrading to newer aps-c camera

Lenses:

Zooms: 18-55, 75-300

Primes: 28 1.8, 50mm 1.8, 100mm 2.8l is, lensbaby composer (double-glass optic, sweet 35mm, edge 80)

So I'm wondering where to go next, I can't seem to find a gap in my set up. I really liking primes, as I'm not needing pro zoom set ups.

I'm not wanting to spend a ton of money. Is there anything worth waiting for, anything that I should get now.

I've been looking at the 135mm f2.

I'm also wondering about the new sigma zooms and primes. Maybe sell some stuff, look at the new 18-35 1.8.

I'm a very big photo enthusiast, and I make some money, but all I care about is making beautiful images, and getting better as a photographer.

I also might be looking to move over to a full-frame prime setup, but right now all options are on the table.

So there I was, walking along with my 6D & 16-35mm II and boom, my knee gave way on some steps, I fell to my knees and the front of the lens hit the ground, sound of glass smashing as I commando rolled over... I've grazed both my knees, my left arm and dented my pride... Plus did the attached damage to my 16-35mm II - can't get the filter off at the moment, going to take it into the local independent shop when I get home from holiday, filter is a dead loss, lens looks ok bar the marks on the outer edge and until I get the filter ring detached, I've no idea of the damage to the front filter thread. Lens appears to work, two scuffs on my 6D are annoying too :-/

So folks - always fit a filter !!!

Hi guys,

I am a newbie in macro photography and wish to know more about lens reversal, i wasnt much satisfied with extension tube macro technique.

Just wondering what magnification can i achieve using a lens reversal adapter on canon 17-40mm lens ? is it life size (1:1) or more ?

how close i need to shot ? focus range between object and lens ?

will it be highly magnified at wide 17mm or 40mm ?

i have a 70-200mm IS lens with me, since both lenses got 77mm thread size, i could swap th lens with same reversal adaptor, will 70-200mm IS give more magnification than 17-40mm ?


it will be highly appreciated, if someone who experimented lens reversal can attach th photos ?

cheers

I have been looking at different 85mm primes to use for portrait photography and some event work. I have a 6D and my full kit is listed below.

I'm considering the Canon 85 1.2 II, Canon 85mm 1.8 and Sigma 85mm 1.4 EX DG HSM. I ruled out the Zeiss and Samyang 85's due to lack of AF. Obviously, there is a huge price difference here. I can afford the Canon 1.8 or Sigma now, but would have to save up a while for the Canon 1.2 II.

The Sigma looks to be optically as good as the Canon 85 1.2 II, at less than half the price. But, the AF accuracy issues reported by TDP are concerning. With a shallow DOF lens like this, poor AF accuracy means a poor keeper rate. I have the 70-200 2.8 II and 135L, so already have some top tier portrait lenses, but I really love shallow DOF photography and 85mm is often a better focal length than 135mm indoors when space is limited.

Any suggestions and hands on experience from CR members?

First, thanks to everyone for helping me along my quest from old Leica/Film 283 flash to 5Dii/7D ETTL flash.

I ended up getting a pair of YN-568EXii flashes. Had problems with both battery doors, fixed those. There are threads on both of that.

Here's my question.

I know the differences between ETTL-II evaluative vs averaging metering, with evaluative comparing the preflash vs ambient on some of the central metering areas (not tied to focusing point) along with distance feedback, if available. Averaging... just considering the preflash over the central metering areas. That I've got down.

What I'm having a hard time with, is two things:

a. Why off camera flash, using the YN622's are seemingly the same as averaging even though the camera is set to evaluative. Its behaving like averaging for some reason. For instance - same scene, on camera, evaluative is 2/3 stops underexposed as compared to averaging, however off camera flash is the same, regardless of averaging vs evaluative.
b. Why zooming seems to show that evaluative, only when on camera, is underexposed at certain focal lengths (24-105 and 16-35ii) but is good to go at all focal lengths when used remotely with the YN622 - again, it seems that no matter what it says, you're getting averaging not evaluative when the YN622 is ues.

Any thoughts?

I'm just wondering how much these lens can stand up to without damaging anything internally. Has anyone here had any mishaps?

I was on a power boat the other day and I was leaning over the side when a bounce caused my to slightly ding the bottom of the barrel against passenger side windshield. Everything seemed to work okay afterwards, but it got me thinking/worrying about possible damage or misalignment of elements.

Hi all. Finally bit the bullet and bought an x. It's just arrived and is sat in my lap as I watch tv, drink beer to celebrate and try to look through the custom functions. Different to my mk 4 I must say, chunky, handles great and very easy to look over. Top quality as expected. Anyway, I'm off to work tomorrow then it's holiday in Venice, seals, deer and Griffon Vultures. Taking the old 1ds3 to Venice but it's the bird stuff I need help with. My mk4 is set the way I like but the x? I just don't have time to practice before I'm off shooting. Any x owners got any advice on set ups for birds in flight, big birds pretty predictable but still fast and big slow deer. Any help will be very much appreciated, I honestly just don't have time to set it up. I'll compare the 1ds3, 1d4 and the x as soon as I'm back. Now, back to annoying the wife .

Hi,

I would very much like some advice in determining which lenses to sell if any.

For bodies, I have a 6D and T1i. For lenses, I have:

Canon's:
24-105L
70-300L
100L Macro (as soon as it's delivered!)
40mm pancake
EF 28-105 USM (bought in 2001, probably v1)
EF-S 18-55
EF-S 55-250 (bought in 2009 so assuming v1)

Tamron's:
60mm Macro
18-270 (PZD version).

Of course, I'm keeping all of my L lenses and the 40mm, it's the others I'm not sure so about.

The only lens I know for sure that I am planning to sell the Tamron 60 mm Macro.

In terms of what I like to shoot: my travels, landscapes, wildlife, flowers, people (often casual portraits or group shots) and architecture.

I don't mind having some redundant backup lenses, but I'm thinking that I have too much at this point. Any thoughts you have will be appreciated and considered.

Cheers,

Vivid

Pretty impressive results on deblurring and CA correction on images produced by a hand-bulit simple lens.

http://www.cs.ubc.ca/labs/imager/tr/2013/SimpleLensImaging/

SimpleLensImaging Heide2013 on Vimeo

'Upgraded' from a Canon 60d to a Canon 6d and also now using a canon 1.2 50mm instead of a 1.4 30mm sigma. I was aware of the 6d moire issues before buying but always had good results with my 60d and looking at 5d mkii - which are supposed to have the same issues.

BUT THE 6D IS NOTICEABLY WORSE! - I have done 2 videos with the 6d and 1.2 50mm and they have both got moire on simple things like guitar strings and guitar edges. I NEVER had this with the 60d and sigma 1.4.

Yes sharpening is off.

What do I do? Is a 6d with the mosaic engineering filter a better option (considering its cheaper) than upgrading to a 5d mkiii?