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C100 Default Hour Meter

I decided to go ahead and purchase the C100 from BH last week. I noticed that it has a no return policy. Okay, fine. When I got the camcorder, first thing I checked was the hour meter. It said total of 2 hours on it. Thinking this was a used one, I got an exchange from BH without any problem. The second one came and it says the same thing. I was curious and called up Canon. The rep spoke to the engineer and confirmed that the C100 usually comes with a default of 2 hours on the meter. They said because of hours accumulation for testing.

Is this true for all who had bought the C100 new? Or has anyone noticed this?

Very curious. Thanks.

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Keep Canon 17-40mm F/4 Vs. Tokina 16-28 F/2.8 Vs. 16-35mm F/2.8

During the summer, my career as a photographer blossomed. I'm seventeen years old, shot two magazine covers, sold some very large (over six feet) prints, had one of my photos go viral and photographed a wedding. In all I earned a couple of grand but most of that I would like to put into savings for during and after college. I shoot on a Canon 5D MKII and do a lot of landscapes. For my landscape lens, I use a 17-40mm F/4 L and sometimes my 50mm, 105mm and 200mm for high quality panoramas. I haven't been using my 17-40 very much do to the fact it is extremely soft and has huge amounts of CA in the corners. Below I will include a shot from the middle edge at F/8. I have been considering upgrading to a new lens as most of my work is landscapes and my 17-40 is most definitely my weakest lens with a slow aperture and soft corners even stopped way down. I need a lens that is sharp through out the image stopped down, I'm fine with soft edges wide open, I'm not shooting landscapes at F/4 and would not be shooting them at F/2.8. I would like there to be as little amount of coma as possible so that I could use the lens for astrophotography instead of my 50mm 1.8.
Canon only really has the 16-35mm which is very expensive and sounds like it is not much sharper then the 17-40mm in the corners. Tokina's 16-28 sounds like a great lens for a great price but i would like to hear what others think of it. I have heard that Tokina doesn't have the best quality control.

http://petapixel.com/2013/07/07/4th-of-july-fireworks-captured-together-with-lightning/

9503949961_155a18a6e4_o.png

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More Medium Format Talk [CR1]

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<p><strong>This and that

</strong>A few people have written in to confirm that Canon is exploring the possibilities of entering into the medium format segment.</p>
<p>We’re told nothing is imminent, but things could change quickly in the next few months. How long this has been going on is unknown, but it does sound like it’s a real possibility.</p>
<p>No one has confirmed or denied that Phase One is the medium format company in question.</p>
<p>Over at <a href="http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/canon_medium_format_2ff.html" target="_blank">NL</a>, they received an outright dismissal to the concept. However, a second source said Canon is going to be all in, and will announce in a big way some time in 2014.</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

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Printing Images

Hi all!

I have a Canon 5D Mk 3 that I got from Canon refurbished and the CLP, pretty sweet! I took a bunch of Raw pictures with my nifty 50 in NYC this past weekend and edited them in LightRoom 4.

I was wondering a few things:

1. How big can I get them printed without losing much quality
2. Where do you go online/in person (NY area) to get them printed/framed

I'd like to get anywhere from large to enourmous prints of my photos framed and hung on my wall, etc.

Thanks!!!

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Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 DC HSM Art Reviewed

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<p><strong>From The-Digital-Picture

</strong>Bryan at TDP has completed his review of the highly anticipated Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 DC HSM Art lens. His only knocks against it are the lack of OS (which isn’t a huge deal) and the limited range on APS-C. However, the uniqueness and performance of this lens should overcome both of those negatives if you’re looking for something in that range.</p>
<p><strong>Says Bryan

</strong><em>“It is easy to overlook any focal length range deficiencies when getting an f/1.8 max aperture available over the entire focal length range. Not only is this the widest aperture zoom lens, but it is also the widest aperture 18mm lens. Full frame sensor camera owners have typically enjoyed about 1 stop of high ISO noise benefit and background blurring capability over APS-C/1.5x/1.6x format sensor camera owners. But, full frame camera owners do not have a zoom lens wider than f/2.8 available to them. The Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 DC HSM “Art” Lens is a bit of an equalizer in this comparison.”‘</em><strong>

</strong></p>
<p><strong><a href="http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Sigma-18-35mm-f-1.8-DC-HSM-Lens.aspx" target="_blank">Read the full review</a></strong></p>
<p><strong><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/967344-REG/sigma_18_35mm_f1_8_dc_hsm.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">Preorder the Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 DC HSM $799</a> </strong>(Coming August 26, 2013)</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

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What lenses would you bring for this travel-trip?

Hi all Canon-shooters! :)

I'm about to do a sort of a travel dream in october. Will be traveling to these places:
- Dubai
- Sydney
- Great barrier reef (compact with under water housing)
- New Zeeland

I'm going to bring a Canon 5D mk3 aswell as my compact camera.
Now I'm thinking of what lenses I should bring and if there is any lens that I should get for a trip like this.

Currently I have:
- Sigma 15mm fish eye
- Canon 16-35/2.8
- Canon 35/1.4
- Canon 50/1.8
- Canon 70-200/2.8 IS II
- Canon 85/1.2
- Canon 100/2.8 IS Macro
- Canon 135/2
- Canon 1.4x extender

When I want abroad to shoot last time I brought my 16-35, 50 and 135mm. it's a little complicated to switch lenses all the time when the sun is about to set.
That's why I've thought of getting perhaps the 24-105/4 to bring instead of only primes.

Since I'm going to shoot a lot of pictures with big tall buildings in Dubai I'm thinking that a Tilt Shift should be a good investment that I can continue to use later on. I've tried that 24 TS-E, but I'm thinking of the 17mm.

Just to clarify: I'm doing this trip mostly to shoot pictures for my portfolio and to get new clients, not so much tourist-shooting. So I'm aiming for pictures that clients (magazines, hotels, travel agency, real estates etc) will like and not so much for my own vacation album.

What whould you bring on a trip like this?
I'm thankful for all input! :)

Best regards
Fredrik

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Teleconverter question

Hi everybody I currently own the sigma 70-200 2.8 os lens and I love it on my 6d. I have recently taken it to mma fights that I have been shooting and have run into kind of an issue. I need a bit of an extra reach at about the 280-300mm range. Shoul I buy a teleconverter? I have very little knowledge on teleconverters so I a hoping you guys can help me out with specific models. The camera settings tend to differ venue to venue but I try to keep my camera around f4-5.6 for the majority of fights (occasionally 2.8 when i am focusing on one person like a winner or something) 1/500 and adjust the ISo from there. I've been getting decent shots but I've been having to crop quite a bit. Any suggestions for me would be great!

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What is 20,000 shutter clicks worth?

I just bought a 1D Mark IV on eBay, and got a pretty good deal. I paid $2925 and $30 for shipping. Looks flawless, and only has 7500 shutter clicks (according to the listing) Problem is the camera has 26,996. (according to EOScount.com) Other than that the camera is spot on. Looks flawless, has the accessories (2 batteries, A/C adapter, big 2 batt charger)

There was another hick-up in that the buyer emailed me asking for $35 more for shipping and seemed to think it was my fault that shipping was higher than his prediction. I explained that I did not pick the shipping (set before the auction), or send the invoice with $30 shipping after the auction. A buyer can't even change the shipping, it's set by the seller. I was considering paying all or part of it when it arrived, but felt a little strong armed by the first emails.

Anyway, I think 19,494 clicks is a bit much to overestimate. And I intend to request the price is lowered, or return the camera. I don't "need" it. It was sort of a birthday gift for myself and an upgrade to my 7D.

What do you think? Just return it? Just suck it up? Ask for a partial refund? $300?

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Need Help with a 24-70 lens

I'm thinking of selling my Canon 24-105 f/4 with IS lens. The two lenses I'm thinking of replacing it with are the Canon 24-70 f/2.8 Mark I or the Tamron f/2.8 24-70 with VC. Has anyone used and/or compared both of these lenses? I would like to hear of your experience if you have as well as your thoughts, inputs and recommendations. I would use this lens as my walk around lens, indoor functions, sunrises and sunsets on beach and video. As much as I'd like to have the Canon 24-70 MK II, it's a bit out of my budget. For portraits I'm truly enjoying my 85mm f/1.8.

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Scratched the rear element of a Canon 24-70 F2.8 I

I borrowed this lens and took it out for shooting last weekend. The rear lens cap was not tightly screwed on causing the rear element badly scratched with visible coating damage. I have heard that a rear element scratch is detrimental.

I put it on my 40D and took some pics. The scratches did not seem to have any adverse effects.

What are the settings (aperture and focal length) you wonderful people here would suggest for a full test to diagnose the possible problem ?

I understand that it would cost a lot to get the element replaced or to get it repair. I might have to buy it.


Anyway, please advise me and suggest what I can do about it.

Thanks.

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The Ray Flash v. the O Flash Ring v. lighting straight cash on fire.

I was involved in a discussion about the Rogue flashbender which I had already purchased in my Amazon account for $35... and that conversation convinced me to go from the small one to the large on for only $40. Then later in the conversation, I learned you can get factory 2nds directly from ExpoImaging at 1/2 off. GREAT! Now I have save $20 I will be able to blow $20 on hookers and blow (at a prorated allotment)

Then the Ray flash caught my eye. http://www.expoimaging.com/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=22
$150 bucks seems like quite a bit considering I can buy a yongnuo flash and an umbrella, and a stand while still having a little left over for hookers and blow.

So I did a youtube search and I saw the original in action and I will say that I was impressed... but then I saw the Chinese knockoff for only $30 on Ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/F170-Macro-O-Flash-Ring-For-NIKON-SB900-D80-D50-D90-D60-D7-CANON-580EX-II-50D-5D-/251303752068?pt=Digital_Camera_Flashes&hash=item3a82def184

The youtube "show" said that using ETTL it was a touch underexposed, so you have to do it manually, but I think I can do that to save $120, a $170 if I bought it new.

So that raises the question... I'm I just throwing the $20 I saved on a $30 piece of junk because I'm nuts, or do yall think it might actually be a decent investment... at least something to play with.

I think that is about it, but I have three rebate gift cards that I believe I am going to use, at least on the factory seconds, and maybe on the O flash ring.

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C300 Timelapse - Anybody Done It?

I'm a newb to the forums so please be nice. I searched a bunch of times before posting this but could not find a thread with anything specific. If I missed it, please direct me.

While there were mentions of using the C300 for timelapse, I did not find anything of someone saying they have actually shot timelapse with that body, let alone sample videos, etc.

I know there are lots of timelapse shooters here. Has anyone used the C300 in that way? Samples? Workflow and IQ thoughts?

Thanks!

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AF dead on my EF 200 2.8L - thoughts?

Hello everyone,

So my aversion against anything AF - and my decade long resistance against it has finally proven not completely unreasonable, unfortunately.

Over the weekend the AF on EF 200 2.8LII went down. Admittedly: the thing a few weeks ago took a little tumble from about 3 feet height into soft dirt. Still worked perfectly fine after that and has hardly any scratch. But not when I put it on on Saturday the AF was dead. It's seemingly not the switch since that turns on and off the AF symbol on the camera. All other lenses work normally.

I am a CPS Gold member and will just have to send it in.

Cleaned the contacts, moved the focusing ring back and forth, played with the switches, etc. Anything else worth checking before sending it in? What is the most likely culprit assuming that it is connected to the fall? Is there wiring in the motor that can come lose? Does the motor itself lock up somehow (remember it still worked normally after the fall)? Any other electrical things?

Also: has anyone a rough idea what I may be looking at for repair cost (I have free shipping and 30% off from the Gold membership)?

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Advice: extension tubes Macro

I would like to extend my canon 100L Macro with extension tubes.
I have a few options but like to hear what option you would choose and why:
1. Canon 5D MK III + 100L+canon 12mm+canon 25mm
2. Canon 5D MK III + 100L+kenko 12mm+kenko 20mm+kenko 36mm
3. Canon 7D + 100L+canon 12mm+canon 25mm
4. Canon 7D + 100L+kenko 12mm+kenko 20mm+kenko 36mm
Of course I can use extension tubes also single instead of stacked

Price Canon vs Kenko tubeset is similar: around 200 euro

Thanks

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5d Mark III or 6d or stick with 7d

Hi,
I currently own a 7d. And I am pretty happy with it overall. The only thing that really bugs me is the amount of noise and losing lock in Servo trying to track fast moving objects.

Lens wise I think I’m ok to take the next step. I already own a 50 1.4, 24-105 L, 100 L and the 70-300 L. I don’t think I will miss the pop-up flash, probably used it less than 10 times in a year and a half.

Is the 6d the next logical step or should I go for the 5d Mark III. Both are within budget.

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I killed a Samyang!

Actually, this could go under that recent thread about dumb things we've done when tired.

I set up my 5Diii with my 14mm to try to get some shots of the meteor shower tonight. I was trying different exposures, usually pretty wide open with ISO from 800 to 6400 and exposures from 15 to 30 seconds. After 45 minutes of fruitless searching and lots of shots (too much light pollution in my locale, I am afraid), I decided I'd had enough for a while.

The good news:

-Planning a trip to the North-lands and if the Aurora cooperates, this was a good practice run. My last -Northern Lights shots were with a crop and the 10-22.
-The pretty uninteresting shots I got were turning out rather well with these exposures.
-The tripod and plate and remote trigger were absolutely perfect for me.
-The 14 mm Samyang was doing just what one would expect from this surprisingly good lens for the price.

Now, the bad news:

After deciding to stop, I tripped over the tripod and all went to ground! The casualty was the Samyang as the mount just snapped off. Camera and all else seems fine and the landing was on a very soft pile of stuff so I'd suspect the mount is not very tough.

This gave me an opportunity to see the guts of this lens. Basically only a minimal number of glue spots and 4 very small screws through a flimsy piece of plastic hold the mount to the rest of the lens. Not very substantial. I carefully disassembled what I could, cleaned everything up as well as I could, and carefully re-assembled the lens using my own minimal glue spots and the same tiny screws.

Now, the thing "works" (although the diaphragm does not respond to the adjustment band). I actually took some shots and except for the inability to open up the aperature, it seems to be aligned and otherwise OK.

So, the lens is terminal. Given the cost of the lens, it probably is not worth trying to get parts and repair it. I suspect my 17-40 will need to suffice for now. since I am not ready to buy a new 14mm.

I still like this Samyang lens. For the price, it is a great deal. I can't say for certain, but I sure hope the OEM lenses we all have are assembled a bit more substantially, but I don't plan to break one to find out!

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