Yesterday, I dropped my 50 F1.4 from about a metre (about 3 feet) onto a hardwood floor (forgot to listen for the click while mounting it) I saw it bounce about twice before coming to rest and the focus system is broken. It works until the camera focuses at infinity and then it can not get out of infinity again.
Now the worst bit is that this is the second 50F1.4 which I have dropped and the previouw one died with the exact same issue.
My question now is, has anybody else experienced this with other lenses or is the 50F1.4 just an incredibly fragile construction and would I be better off with the 50 F1.2 L? (I also have the 50 F1.8 and so wished that had been on the body at the time, but alas, I love the manual focus ring of the 1.4) I also suppose that sending it in for repair would come close to what it would cost new?

Your thoughts and experiences would be greatly appreciated.

Greetings everyone.

So I've been a nikon shooter all my life. I shoot amphibians and underwater and am in need of a FF upgrade. Recently one of my firends passed away and his wife gave me his 2 canon 300mm f2.8 primes. One is IS the other is not. Both are imaculate condition wise. I feel the need to keep them given the gesture.

So now I'm wondering what to do body wise. I thought about switching over completely but in general I notice my nikon pics always look popier with wilder colors than my friends who shoot canon. It may just be the in camera settings, can I achieve the same effect with canon? I also notice my canon friends have major problems with auto focus, they actually need focus lights and I don't. So I'm colflicted about a full system switch because I'm nervous it wont produce the look I like.

Also every nikon camera I have ever owned had a spot on AF in very low light so the idea of canons AF not working well is terrifying to me because all my shooting is in the dark.

So I'm thinking about dipping in with 5d mk1 to see if I like canon image and lens performance. If not I could keep if for the two lenses and get a d600 for my others.

Is this a mistake? Would I be that much more impressed with a 6d on those Tele's?

I hear the 6d has good IQ similar to the 5d but also the same poor AF so I'm not sure it would be worth paying 3x the price.

Thoughts?

I am sure some of you already know this but in case.
Here is the formula I discover on my Canon

Supposed you have ISO speed increment set to 1/3
Base ISO: 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600 ...

So the formula will be:
[x1] [no] [yes] [x2]

where x1, x2 are base ISO.
Example:

[100] [125] [160] [200][/b]
You should avoid the ISO 125
Preferred: 160

[800][1000][1250][1600]
You should avoid the ISO 1000
Preferred: 1250

The author here explained much better than I can:
http://shootintheshot.joshsilfen.com/2010/05/13/canon-hd-dslr-native-iso/

For your specific camera model, you can look here:
https://home.comcast.net/~NikonD70/Charts/RN_ADU.htm

Below is picture of iso 125 vs iso 1250
where if you follow the formula, the iso 125 fall in to the NO and 1250 into the YES
Any comments?

Recently got a non-IS 70-200 f/2.8 L for shooting volleyball. I noticed that zooming to the long end that the indicator line only got to the left side of the "200" marking. At the time I didn't think anything of it, and I never went to 200mm for the games I shot.

Today I was shooting bicycle racing and while putting the pictures through LR I notice the maximum zoom for everything is only 185mm. Has anyone ever seen anything like this? I am assuming I will have to send it in for repair, but wondering what in the lens would block it like that... It seems to spin fine up until that point.

Ohhh...I hope they replace it with an IS 2...

Hi guys!

Do you feel the 70-200 f2,8 II gets more use than the 200 (if you own both) or is the 200 SO awesome you find uses for it anyway?

I love the 70-200 II, but always had a thing for the 200 f2, but never owned it. I owned the 300 f2.8 (so I'm used to the weight), but that was too long for me.

And forget, "if you really need the extra stop" I want it if it's awesome as it looks ;D

Thanks!

First, you may remember this thread, (http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=12048.0) in which I claimed to be going to Glacier National Park. Well, plans have changed since then! I still greatly appreciate the advice!

I will be visiting Yosemite National Park in September for 5 days. I have a campsite in the park, and am extremely excited to visit the area Ansel Adams helped make so famous!

I have another camera and lens dilemma though. My current gear:
Canon 60D – traded the t4i to a friend who wanted a physically smaller camera
70-200 f/2.8 IS II
10-22 USM
18-135
50 f/1.8
430 EXII Flash
Macro extension tube
Manfrotto tripod and head

My first question – I have the wide angle covered, but is it worth looking at buying/renting a 2x extender in case there is any wildlife?

Secondly, I have very much been enjoying my macro extension tube. I tried the 100L macro at a camera shop recently. I wasn't blown away by it, but I could definitely see how the dedicated macro would be a helpful tool to have. Is it worth renting/purchasing the macro for these trips?

Third – I tried a 6D and 24-105 combination at the camera store several days ago, and absolutely loved it. It is definitely something I am thinking about picking up before the trip. I love astrophotography (particularly the Milky Way) so the incredible FF Iso difference would be extremely helpful. The issue I face is that I sometimes find the 60D autofocus to be slightly lacking when tracking moving objects. Would I run into this issue with the 6D as well?

The camera store I go to has a very nice option that if I rent something, if I decide I would like to purchase it after the trip is over, that the rental price will go directly into the purchase price of the lens (but obviously a new one and not the one they rent out).

Finally, I also have the option to visit either Sequoia/Kings Canyon, Death Valley or Zion National park in October. Does anyone have an opinion on any of those parks? If Sequoia/Kings Canyon is the choice, which of those should I look at camping in (assuming I can find a spot)?

Any other advice, including which hikes to take at Yosemite, is welcomed and very much appreciated!

Thanks!

So I finally made the jump and upgraded my T2i to a 6D. I am LOVING it. I know that there are lots of critics out there that have negative things to say about the 6D, but being an amateur / hobbyist, I could not be happier. The one downside (which I obviously knew going into this) was not being able to use my EF-S lenses (Canon 10-22 and Tamron 18-270) so I am in the process of selling those.

I currently have the Canon 24-105 and the Canon 50 f/1.8 lenses for the 6D. I don't have a substantial budget, but I am thinking that I need to get a zoom lens as well. What do people recommend? I am currently between the following:

Canon EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 L IS USM Lens
Canon EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM Lens
Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 L IS USM Lens (I know there are always rumors of this lens being upgraded - but let's put that aside for now).
Canon EF 70-200mm f/4 L USM Lens
Canon EF 70-200mm f/4 L IS USM Lens

Would appreciate thoughts of the group and especially experience from those with the Canon 6D who own any of the above lenses.

Thanks!

For every photographer who shoots weddings where they keep the gear that they don't use in some scenarios? You take the bag on your back or put the gear you don't use and place it somewhere close where you can see it?

I have a trip coming up to Africa SOON and want to buy the 200-400. Which retailer do you guys suspect will have it first? I mean where should I 'pre-order' it from? Any suggestions, guesses? Thx.

I've been looking for a bag to commute/shoot with most of my stuff on hand. I've been researching a while and narrowed it down to two that I really like, but I'm sure there are others that I might like equally that I haven't even heard of...


1. Kata minibee 111-UL
http://www.kata-bags.us/minibee-111-ul-backpack-lg
Pros:
- it's super light
- fits most everything I'd want to carry, plus more storage room
- doesn't look like a stereotypical photo bag
- I have a source who I can get the all black limited edition one from for just over $200
Cons:
- sorta not my style
- straps seem to just hang everywhere
- retail price ($330 USD)

2. Chrome Niko Pack
http://www.chromeindustries.com/niko-pack
Pros:
- appearance/style (my fav)
- good amount of storage space
- awesome build quality
- waterproof without needing an extra sleeve
Cons:
- heavier
- convenient "double access" gear section is also potentially awkward because there is less wall space to secure the velcro dividers (or so I've heard)

Gear I'd like to hold:
- 5DIII (with 70-200 2.8 potentially attached, preferably)
- 24-70 f4
- 85 1.2
- another prime lens or 2
- 2 yongnuo speedlights
- Random stuff (charger, SDs, few filters, extra lens/body caps, 4 yongnuo transceivers, 2 sync cables)
- at least one 2.5" external HDD
- small personal belongings
- 15" macbook pro, potentially but not necessary


If I were considering these two bags head to head and would be paying retail for whichever I chose, I would easily choose the Chrome bag. However, I am tempted by the price/rarity of the deal I can get on the Kata—which may end up being much more comfortable and practical... Considering that I'm comparing these two bags, does anyone have any suggestions of bags I may have overlooked that are similar/better value/more practical, etc?

I have two profoto D1 strobes, should I buy two softboxes of the same size or two different sizes?

Making business case for new camera, currently using 7d / 600d for production video and eng for event video.

Very keen on c100 as it will work well with current lenses (or at least, predictably given transition from aps-c to s35)
but niggling doubts as to go for 5D3 and new lenses (would need a tascam dr-60d) or (if it can be supplied) the bmd 4k.

I don't need 4k yet, but our stage crews are buying a 4k projection and screens... 1080 looks great on their exsisting screens, but any camera I buy is going to be used in 3, 5 years time.

I threw the 5d in there as an option... I don't need stills on this camera... My gut tells me go dedicated video camera route, but is the BMD just too out there?

Hi guys/girls,

I am going to Copenhagen later next month for roughly a week and as this is my first time to Europe I am after some advice on gear and also on anything that might be in the area that is a must see for photography.

I have decided to get myself a 6D body (currently own a 40D) in the coming weeks along with grip etc. My current camera bag is a back pack type and I am a bit worried if it is going to be secure enough (also not sure about size for body + grip). This is where I would like some advice from anyone who has traveled around the area, how safe is it, much of an issue with pickpockets etc. Also what sling bag would you recommend I have been thinking about one of the Nat Geo ones as I like how they have a cover and then also a zip underneath, also they are rather plain looking.

As for gear, I have a 17-40mm and 70-200mm F4IS which I will be taking. I will probably also take my ex580ii. In addition to this I have a 50mm f1.8 which I am not sure if it is worth taking.

Okay with that aside, for those that might of been to Copenhagen do you have any recommendations for places to take pictures? I am more into wildlife/landscape than street photography.

Thank you very much for any advice.

Hi,
I must be stupid, I know this because I havn't seen anyone asking this question online, nor is it mentioned in the ST-E3-RT manual. My reason for buying the (to me, very expensive) ST-E3 radiotransmitter was so that I don't have to fiddle with my (600ex) flashes while they are inside soft boxes. I can adjust power, shutter curtains, groups etc, but I have not found an option for adjusting the zoom on the flash gun from the camera/transmitter. Is this not possible or am I missing something?

I often use flashes pretty high up and adjusting the zoom remotley would be perfect.
Side note: Apart from this, the ST-E3-RT is worth every penny, I can't belive I stayed with off brands for soo long,

Out of curiosity, those looking for high MP cameras... why do you need anything above 18MP?
What kind of pictures are you going to be printing or publishing that requires like 30MP and above?

When you're not using live view, will it be possible to take 40MP pics?

A client for whom I teach still photography will use her new 5DMk3 for occasional video at events. She will be buying a Lexar 32Gig 1000x UDMA7 CF card. In 99.99% of the usage scenarios there will be stills shot and some video but for starting point, can someone tell me the empty-card capacity for 5DMk3 video on that card?

She will want the easiest and most common playback file format to give to friends by way of copying to optical media (not posted to the cloud. She does not plan lots of (any?) video editing.

Just not my area.

Thanks, in advance, for suggestions.

This may seem like a strange/uneducated question, What is Fine Art photography...

I have searched Google re definition, without a clear clarification of what it is or who decides what is or isn't fine art...

Was browsing through the Focus magazine, allot of what is featured is/or seems to be Large Format/Medium format Film (not digital) allot seems to pre-date digital....

From Landscape to nudes, still life to abstract...

As a forum of Photographers, what do you consider Fine Art photography?

Hi, I'd like to get a wee camera for my holidays, not taking my 5D III and L primes.. as much as Id like to have them with me all the time!

So options are SL1 +40mm pancake or eos M with 22mm pancake.

I'm leaning towards the SL1 but 40mm on it might be a wee bit too long. I love my 50mm and 35mm focal lengths.
One thing is I hate composing through a LCD, but the M + 22mm might be a nicer focal length.

Are these cameras the same sensor , and sensor size, and quality etc?

Has anyone used them both or in a similar spot looking for a decent but compact holiday camera?

Cheers!

US2013169851(A1) has been published on 2013-07-04. The application was filed 2013-12-19 and has foreign priority data JP2011-288116. The foreign priority date is 2012-12-28, hence the US patent can make use of the this date. We will likely see a Japanese publication within a week or two since the 18 month KOKAI publication date was due 2013-06-28.

The patent deals with the problems of designing gausian or modified gausian type lenses that:
- are relatively wide in a standard context
- are compact (short total lenght) even with a BF of 38mm
- are well aberration corrected, in particular sperical and curvature of field

There are 4 numerical examples given all 1/f2.8 and image height 21.64mm (EF lens)
1) F = 45mm, L = 58mm, BF = 38mm, Effective lenght = 20mm
2) F = 39mm, L = 62.5mm, BF = 39mm, Effective lenght = 23.5mm
3) F = 35mm, L = 63mm, BF = 38mm, Effective lenght = 25mm
4) F = 28mm, L = 65mm, BF = 38mm, Effective lenght = 27mm

Layout and curves for Sperical Aberration, Astigmatism, Distortion and Chromatic Aberration can be found in the patent : http://www.freepatentsonline.com/20130169851.pdf

I've shot film and video for 30 years, but am new to the Canon Mark lll. Today, I'm returning my second camera in two weeks due to unacceptable noise and faint vertical stripes in underexposed areas. ISOs in multiples of 320 minimize but don't eliminate the problem. Flat picture profiles, which I prefer for grading, make the issue worse.

The problem is very obvious even with video displayed on a broadcast monitor direct out of the HDMI port. It is more subtle on the attached still grab, but still apparent in the wall upper left. When panning, it's almost as if I were shooting through something vertical very close to the lens. BTW, I've tried several lenses as well as older and current Canon firmware. Haven't loaded Magic Lantern yet. Insights would be appreciated. Is this just how it is supposed to look?

Had the following odd behavior with my 60D yesterday......

Windy day, so we headed to the beach for some long exposure surf photos (1-1.5 minutes) and flash portrait work. Took the portraits after the surf photos. I used the 10 second timer to give me time to get in position with the hand-held flash with radio trigger, too windy for stands. Frequently, the shutter would release and the flash fire as expected and then begin another 10-second countdown and repeat. More often than not, I had to turn the camera off to get it to stop.

I have ML on that card but was not using any ML features and made sure of it after the first occurence, nor was bracketing set. I did note that ML reported a CMOS temperature of 163 and wondered if the camera internals were hot from the long exposures....it wasn't a particularly hot day, low 80's.

I could not get the behavior to repeat after returning home and there is no feel of a sticky shutter release button, nor was there wind blown sand lodged anywhere.

I'm not overly concerned, as it didn't repeat, but I am curious. Anyone had similar experience?

Hey has anyone seen details/specs on the file naming standards on the 70D? Hope Canon will allow custom names of the files (in Camera) with Initials instead of IMG... TD and 1D do this. as does Nikon. or have to use the DPP during import. Some times difficult to keep file seq separate when imports from various cameras. and the Seq # are in the same range.

I was reading an article in a photo magazine and came across a tip I have seen before and wondered about its importance or usefulness. The recommendation was to close off the viewfinder when making a long exposure. As I considered that tip I remembered that Canon used to include a viewfinder cover which could be attached to the neck strap. In fact, I seem to recall that my F-1 had a switch which would close the viewfinder. But as I considered the necessity of using such an item I wondered if the mirror/body seal was so loose to allow light-leaks.

I rarely, if ever, take exposures of more than a second or two so I wondered if anyone who makes truly long exposures, say thirty seconds plus, has had an issue with light-leaks from the viewfinder?

I also seem to remember, back in the early days of light meters being part of the camera, that the measurement for light value was made in the pentaprism so the recommendation was to not allow any light to enter from the viewfinder side lest the exposure be skewed. Just some random thoughts on this early morning.