This subject has been beaten into the ground, but I was surprised at how much noise I was seeing in even ISO 400 images in broad daylight with a 7D compared to my 5D3. See comparison below.

The short story is I have two 5D2 refurb's and two 7D refurb's that I am evaluating as a backup body to my 5D3.

I believe I am going to stick with the 5D2. Using Reikan's FoCal, both 5D2's OUTER AF points outperformed all 19 points from both 7D bodies in both Quality of Focus (QoF) and AF accuracy. I will post a separate comparison of them in a new thread tomorrow.

Both are 100% crops of shots of the northern sky at ISO 400, RAW OOC, zero NR. First is the 5D3; second is the better of two 7D copies I am evaluating. You will need to download/save them to see the noise more clearly.

My sources tell me that on Monday we will see lots of incredible announcements - Canon buying Hassy or will it be Leice. Perhaps a MF Canon to fit Leica glass. Nikon licensing their 14-24 to Canon.

What are you expecting on Monday, the first of April?

My sources tell me that on Monday we will see lots of incredible announcements - Canon buying Hassy or will it be Leice. Perhaps a MF Canon. Nikon D800 with a Canon name on it.

What are you expecting on Monday, the first of April?

I'm ripping off ahsanford's question format... consider it praise rather than theft.

I thought I would start with a bit of history. I started off with a Canon XS and a 18-55 and I got a 75-300mm along with it. Without question, I was not happy with the 75-300, but I did learn a few things about shutter speed with shooting at a distance with a long zoom, not to mention having a relative understanding of bokeh at longer focal lengths.

I eventually upgraded to the 55-250, and I know I'm romanticizing how great it was, but it was a good little lens, especially at the price I paid for it.

I had a 70-200mm f/4L usm for a while and I didn't hate it... but I didn't think it was really that much better than the 55-250 (which I had sold quite a while before). I REALLY didn't like it in low light, but I guess that is expected. Outdoors it was good, but still never blown away like I had been with my primes (50mm f/1.8 and eventually f/1.4, 100mm f/2.8L IS macro, etc.)

So I waited a while and I got a 70-200mm f/2.8L USM... and I liked it more, but according to everyone here, it was a touch backfocused and my 60D as many of us know doesn't have AFMA... so I sold it because again... I wasn't blown away. But I did like that a whole heck of a lot more than the 70-200mm f/4L usm.

I would like a 135mm f/2L but it isn't an emergency to get one, but it contributes to my concern that if I get the 70-200mm f/2.8L IS mkii, then I will have too much money in the same focal range (a 100mm f/2.8L IS, a 135mm f/2L, and then the aforementioned 70-200mm).

So I was thinking... is there a good zoom option that has more reach, with reasonable low light capabilites (5.6+ need not apply)...

Auto focus is a must, and image quality is paramount. I find that if my lens doesn't have the capability of producing breathtaking photos, I just ignore it and work with my other lenses that are significantly more impressive.

Brands:

I prefer canon. I think they tend to have better resale value and so if I don't like a lens, I can always sell it again and either not lose anything, or at least not lose much. I know Sigma makes a very good product depending on the specific lens, so I'm not averse to them... and they also tend to be a good deal cheaper for comparable specs... though maybe the image quality isn't quite as good... (70-200mm f/2.8 OS, I'm pointing the finger at you).

I'm going to be upgrading to a 5D mkiii in a few months and I know I'm going to miss the reach of the crop sensor (though I realize the bokeh is still the same, if not better, and when I crop into the image, the depth of colors will be greater and it will be sharper... so I'm complaining only about perception of a loss of length).

As you guys always ask when someone pipes up about lens selection, here are my shooting needs...

• I am an enthusiast, but I'd like to think I've exceeded the hobbiest moniker. I never been professional, though I think I get a little lucky here and there and come out with pro quality images. And I would like to do a little sports photography on the side, though I realize that is a dependent position and if the kids plays 4 minutes in a game and doesn't do anything... it was basically a huge waste of time.
• Currently happily using a 60d, but I'll be upgrading to a 5dmkiii. I plan on buying the lens after the mkiii, so f/4 for indoors might be manageable though not ideal as I'll kick up the iso.
• I don't do studio, but I will throw the camera up on a tripod and use my 430ex to get the shot I want. Yes, a lone 430ex.
• I used to be a snob about using on camera flash... and I still am, though I'll bounce light happily to get more light into the environment and I enjoy the challenge that brings. I actually created a homemade diffuser that I really thought did a very good job of lighting my subject while not causing them to cast much of a shadow. I was very pleased with that.
• I don't like vignetting... I'll add some in post in LR4, but if I can skip that step, I will.
• I like shooting wide open, or at the very least moving the aperture just a step away from wide open... so I'd prefer a lens that is really sharp nearly all wide open
• I am in really low light, handheld situations all the time. In the last year, I shot football games (3rd grade through 8th), I shot an indoor play my daughter was in in rather dark lighting, I shot indoor baskeball (4th graders), an outdoor track event (photographing people run is crazy boring), and then the normal hodge podge of fatherly duties, like a pumpkin festival, a girl scout fireside jamboree (so very dark and I couldn't get even a hint of AF using my 50mm f/1.4easter egg hunts, trick or treating, etc. My subjects generally are both moving at a full run, or not moving at all.
• High priority needs for this length: I'm a big strong guy, so if the lens weighs 10 lbs... it doesn't matter to me. I really like taking Candids. I shoot often in aperture priority and if it is a bright setting I'll throw iso into 100 and the let the camera adjust shutter speed.
• Medium priority needs for this length: Handheld Low-Light (Concerts), Street, Portraits
• Low priority needs for this length: Landscapes, Handheld low-light (Gymnasium Sports)
• Zero need for this length: Video (I'd shoot with my other lenses first), Macro (already have the 100mm f/2.8), Wildlife (I'll go out into the woods, but the only thing I saw the few time I went was a squirrel.
• I buy and sell gear at a small profit, and then I put that money into my gear... So I make around $2,000 a year doing so and it feeds my hobby. So after I get the 5dmkiii, I should have $1,000 and I'm willing to spend maybe $2000 on the lens... up to $3000 if there is a miracle lens that is a great value out there. I'll pay more for better gear at this stage.
• Weather sealing is important... and while I don't want to go out into the rain, I might get caught in the rain and I don't want to lament water spots affecting my image quality.
• I'll print things for my wall, but they tend to be no bigger than 11x16... But if I'm actually doing some sports photography, I really want my shots to be print capable. @ a fathead level, if it comes down to that.

What I'm considering...

I'm willing to consider a 70-200mm f/2.8L IS with a 1.4 or a 2.0 tele-converter. With AFMA on the 5kmkiii, I don't have to worry about front or back focused and I know it is a miracle lens... but I have been disappointed with it's smaller brothers... so I just don't want to go back to the well and not like what I'm seeing AGAIN.

http://www.amazon.com/Sigma-70-200mm-2-8-Telephoto-Canon/dp/B003HC8V9A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1364689577&sr=8-1&keywords=sigma+70-200+2.8

I'm also willing to consider the 70-200mm Sigma. I know it is not quite as good as the Canon, but for $600+ in savings... I might be willing to overlook it. Also... throw on a teleconverter.

It is presumed by many (and absolutely expected by myself) that the EF 50mm F/1.4 USM will finally get a modern refresh like the 24mm, 28mm and 35mm lengths. I own the new 28 and adore it. I hold it in the same regard as my L glass -- it's a joy to use.

I would consider a prime lens if I had two bodies, but switching when the players come closer doesn't seem practical... though I have done something similar when I was trying to compare image quality of a 70-200 to a 100mm. 100mm won.

The Canon 70-300mm f4-5.6L calls to me, but I'm not a big fan of variable apertures, but it does have more reach and it is a good price, but the difference between f/2.8 and f/5.6 means only two additional stops of iso, but that's what gives me reason for concern.

There's also the 100-400mm by canon, but ditto on the variable aperture, f/4.5 to 5.6L. Also, I don't like the the pump action lens. If I recall, it lets in way too much dust.

Sigma has a 120-400 and a 150-500 that sound really interesting, but their apertures are f/4.5-5.6 and f/5-6.3 respectively. I really don't think I would be able to use indoors, kicking up the iso will help, but I'm not sure it will be adequate.

If I were to go with a prime, I kinda like the 300mm f/4L. I don't have too much to say about it, because I really don't want to carry on 200mm prime, one 300mm prime, and one 400mm prime. Both are very well rated on Amazon, 4.5+ stars each, but it doesn't mean that it is right for me.

My mind is really not made up right now, so I'm willing to hear suggestions based on either personal experience or otherwise.

Hi guys,

I use two older, 580ex's as A & B slaves (shown below) and a third 580exII functions as disabled on-camera master.

Recently I have noticed 580EX "B" slave is underexposing a bit. When I swap the two 580EX's (A switched as B assignation), the "A" side is now underexposing. So I think this has something to do with the physical B unit and not an issue at the level of the master or settings.

I now see the B unit always displays "C. fn" on LCD whatever I do with the settings (see picture). The kicker is that both 580EX units are set at C.fn values of "1/0" when I check. There appears to be no way for me to get the B unit C.fn off on the display. To be fair, I really wouldn't even have noticed the display difference between the two 580EX units or cared had it not been for the underexposure issue, so can't rule out it had always displayed that way on this unit. But the exposure issue is recent. So I am not sure if I toggled something or if the unit is malfunctioning or if the C.fn display is normal.

1) Could the display difference be just due to variance based on when or where the 580 units were bought from? "A" is newer and was bought in Europe over a trip, while B is from the US...

2) Is there a way to reset the whole B unit? I am a tad worried if the C. fn funciton is somehow toggled "on" in B unit and is responsible for the exposure discrepency. I am not a speedlite whizz so I am hoping there is an easy answer.

Best, Ray

Hello, everyone!

I have a 60D, ready to go full frame for better ISO and overall IQ. Shoot variety of subjects from family candids (2-year old), sports (in and out), macro, events/ festivals, and some landscape. I plan on keeping my 100L macro (love, love this lens!), and I have an X100S on order which will be my everyday, walk-around camera (effective 35mm focal length). I also have the 40mm pancake which I'd keep so, I have 35mm, 40mm and 100mm FLs covered. I also have a good monopod, tripod and flash. Questions:

• Do I sell the 60D or keep it to house a 70-200 II or 70-300L solely for sports/wildlife (given its reach advantage)? I could see keeping this if I go with the 6D but with a 5D III will I really want to shoot the 60D for sports (even with the loss of reach)?
• I also have the 17-55mm and Tamy 70-300 VC (like the lens to 200 in full light but not so hot to 300) both of which I'll probably sell regardless and due to a tax refund, have about another $5,000 or so to put towards the new body and glass. Call it $6,000 with the sold stuff plus whatever I could get for the 60D if I decide to sell.
• Ideally, I'd like to be as efficient as possible in that I don't want to change lenses constantly and would like to keep my total number of lenses at 5 or 6 most.

What body and lenses would you add given this information? Thank you kindly in advance!

JP

Hello folks,

I thought I'd start my Saturday with an absurdly long thread about 50mm primes.

Why I want a new 50mm...

My Canon EF 50mm F/1.4 USM is a lovely lens for the dollar. Sharp, large aperture, etc. But I have a few more dollars now, and I've noted that I am missing some of the niceties of a modern lens, an L lens, etc. AF can hunt from time to time, and though it has USM, it famously has the older USM which is not super fast. Of late, I've noticed that I miss focus a lot with children. So AF speed is a big reason for the upgrade, but IQ is a constant area for improvement.

Basic brand filtering...

• I am a Canon snob when it comes to lenses. This is generally for quality / reliability / resale reasons.
• Must have AF for this length (sorry, Zeiss)
• I am not interested in the Sigma F/1.4 as it has mixed reviews on build quality, AF, etc. I know there are some huge fans of that lens, but until I see a Sigma 50mm with the accolades and IQ of the new 35mm F/1.4 'art' series, I am not considering Sigma here.

As you guys always ask when someone pipes up about lens selection, here are my shooting needs...

• I am an enthusiast only, been shooting about 9 years now
• Currently happily using a 5D3, so climbing up to ISO 6400 is not a problem.
• I never shoot in a studio environment.
• I almost never use a flash.
• I don't mind vignetting... In fact, I kind of like it sometimes
• I'd rather crank up ISO than shoot fully open as everything is soft in the corners
• I am in really low light, handheld situations all the time. My subjects generally are not moving, but I occasionally shoot at rock concerts. I generally prefer stopping down for sharpness and more useful DOF with IS than getting handcuffed into having to shoot fully open and accept softness and minimal DOF.
• High priority needs for this length: Walkaround, Candids, Kids, Handheld low-light (Not moving subjects)
• Medium priority needs for this length: Handheld Low-Light (Concerts), Street, Portraits
• Low priority needs for this length: Landscapes, Handheld low-light (Gymnasium Sports)
• Zero need for this length: Video, Macro, Field Sports, Wildlife
• I'll pay more for better gear at this stage.
• Weather sealing is great for a landscape-prioritized lens, but as I live in a place with near zero inclement weather, sealing is not a must for me in this length.
• I rarely take things to print.
• I generally shoot my Canon 50mm F/1.4mm in the F/2 to F/5.6 range. I appreciate what large aperture glass offers, but I almost always stop those lenses down for more sharpness, more working DOF, etc.

What I'm considering...

It is presumed by many (and absolutely expected by myself) that the EF 50mm F/1.4 USM will finally get a modern refresh like the 24mm, 28mm and 35mm lengths. I own the new 28 and adore it. I hold it in the same regard as my L glass -- it's a joy to use.

So I am eager to compare this likely new lens to the 50mm F/1.2L. Being an engineer, I then overthought the crap out of this and made a lens comparison spreadsheet. SEE ATTACHED. I've flagged one as better than other in each category, but those are just my opinion. Further, I'm not tallying total wins in each field. See priorities above for what really matters to me.

Please let me know where my assumptions are off, or where your personal experience might have a different opinion. Which 50mm of the two do you think is right for me?

-A

Hey,

Have any of you ever sent a lens to canon?, to callibrate / clean it ?
Did you also send your body to them with the lens?

I am interested in this because i have a lens that is several years old, and also purchased a second hand body.
Everything seems to be working fine, but i wonder if i can send or bring the equipment to a service center to have it checked out?

I have tried to google it in my native language but didn't find any specific steps,
Any of you know what to do? ( I am from the Netherlands btw).

Thanks in advance for help/advice on this subject

Now that the Canon EF 35mm f/2.0 is officially discontinued but still available new at reasonable prices, I'm tempted to get one of these small primes before they become unavailable. The question however is if it's worth it.

I previously had one that I purchased second hand. It was on old, tired lens from 1990 or so and the performance was not what I expected from it, especially when compared to my fantastic 50 mm f/1.8 Mk I. So thinking it was a dud, I sold it on.

What's your experience with recent copies of the 35 mm f/2? And how should they compare to the 50 mm f/1.8 Mk I? Intended use is on full frame as well as crop.

I had a pair of 7Ds and have swapped one for a new 5D3. I don't know if anyone out there goes through periods of inactivity with their photography where their camera may sit unused for weeks at a time but it does happen to me. I've noticed that the 7D will pretty much pick up weeks or a month later virtually where the battery left off. For example if I stopped shooting at 65% battery, a month later it'll be close to it though I never really paid attention to it as it sure wasn't 0. But I've noticed now that my 5D3 after it's first little bit of inactivity has drained it's battery when off. Now, the other day I charged up two of my batteries and left them on the charger for some time after the solid green light. I may be jumping the gun here as it's only been two days since I did this but already I see my 7D battery level at 100% and the 5D3 is registering 99%. How is it that the 5D3 sucks up more juice when off than the 7D? Unless it's an actual fault with the camera, I'm going to really have to pay attention to either removing the battery or charging it up during the times when I'm not using it so much. By the way, the 5D3 was just sitting with the 24-105 on it. I know in the past people have had issues with the Tamron 24-70 and I think there's a grip that used to cause a drain but that's not my situation. Anyway, I'm just curious to know if the tiny drain on the 5D3 is normal with the 7D less being an unusual bonus or if it's the other way around. Again, I assume most people here are avid shooters and don't have a lot of downtime but maybe someone knows. I may also send off an email to Canon and find out what they have to say as to what is normal and not. Thanks in advance.

Maybe you will be : your eyes, but does anybody know, how the test-magazines (online, printed) get their cameras for testing?
Are these Cameras "specially improved" by the manufacturers? Or do test magazines get "normal" cameras from the production lines?

This is an upsetting thing for me, considering what I love the most is doing startrails. I took my camera out tonight, slapped on the 17mm ts-e and tried to do a 20 minute exposure. Once I was done, the red processing light remained on for a good five minutes...I turned the camera off and a screen popped up saying, "recording image to disk"...I let this screen run for 10mins before taking my battery out and killing the cycle.

Has anyone run into this problem?

Do I have a defective mark iii?

I have yet to do any firmware updates..

My first thought was my memory card is not fast enough, but it's sandisk extreme cf 60mb/s. I tried an "extreme pro" 90mb/s and I ran into the same issue.

Any help would be wonder as this is really bumming me out

Ps: 30 sec exposures take about 45secs to record and pop up as a preview....

Thanks!

Traveling to AZ in the near future, anybody with some interesting landscape photo opportunities for me to explore in that area?

Maybe a particular regional or state park? Maybe a particular canyon or mountain range? I'm not that familiar with the area but I will have a car and some time.

Any thoughts about this lens. Wicked expensive. But for sports is it worth it vs 70-200 2.8 cropped or the 400 At a higher f. It would be strange for me not to have a zoom have to move to get the proper frame.

I'm received my 6D today and having a blast with it. I also have a 430 EX II that I want to use as a off camera flash. From what I've read so far the options I have ares use a 90EX as the master (trigger) or a Yongnuo YN622C ETTL Wireless Transciever Triggers. I really don't want flash coming off the camera, is there a way to control the 90EX so that it doesn't flash? If there are any other options in those price I'd like to hear from you.

I have a 5d3
24-70 ii
70-200 2.8ii
Sigma 35mm 1.4
600exrt

Take family portraits, vacation photos and eventially school functions.

Not sure where to invest next.
70-300l for more reach
2more 600exrt for flash photography
100mm 2.8 lens portraits and macro
16-35 2.8 for landscape

I know thats a lot of choices but just want to keep expnading and not sure which is the best for vacations and portraits
Considering what i have. I am staring to get into wildlife.

I am doing this poll mostly because I am in the market for a film body. Right now I am still leaning towards an EOS 1V or an AE-1 Program and getting a few FD lenses. Please let me know what y'all think, what y'all like , and why!

Thanks!

I've been shooting for years, but this will be my first rock concert. I'm wondering on lenses. What should I plan for? (no flash photography, of course) Here's my gear:

Body:
5DM3

Lenses:
24-105 f4
50 f1.4 and 1.2
70-200 f2.8 IS II USM
Sigma 12-24 f4

If there's one on the list I really should have, post your suggestions and I can grab a rental. I was figuring that I'd probably be using my 50 and 70-200 the most.

What do you all think?

Hello everyone,

Now it's time I ask a question. I am going to get either the 17 or 24 TS lens. I'm leaning towards the 17 because I'm interested in a lens that wide, but I suppose it doesn't matter. I know the perspective is different (7 mm that wide is a lot), but do either have any optical advantages over the other? Thank you so much.

Umm... That's it really.




Please!!

I was curious how much the Long exp. noise reduction helps to reduce noise. I did a simple test and it didn't come out as expected. Why?

Using LR4, I increase exposure by 1.45 to make it more obvious. The test has been repeated with very consistent result.

Turning long exp. noise reduction on, I notice:
-it does reduce big white pixel (that's hot pixels, isn't it?). good.
-but it introduces more 'fine' noise
-the histogram shifted to the right. Since I put lens cap on and cover the VF, it means more noise.

Turned on:

Turned off:


Full size jpeg:
Turned on: http://www.4shared.com/download/xq1J83El/On_jpeg.jpg?tsid=20130329-172506-af9db705
Turned off: http://www.4shared.com/download/13iNrPVG/Off_jpeg.jpg?tsid=20130329-172524-cba1a4de

RAW:
Turned on: https://www.dropbox.com/s/4wol2dzblooo9sm/On%20RAW.CR2
Turned off: https://www.dropbox.com/s/8h9xp0u8gsr93yz/Off%20RAW.CR2

Can someone please test your EOS body with this function and tell me what's your result? Why is this so? I was planning to turn it ON for my coming miky way photography without a tracking mount. Therefore I was testing at high ISO.

thanks for helping

Hello everyone!

I've been leeching the CR site for some time so I thought I'd register. I shoot events and sports for a university's marketing department. I'm also owner of We Lend Lenses, a local Canon gear rental service in West Michigan.

The rental business is the main reason I visit CR - to keep up to date on new gear. I mostly shoot with the 6D and the f2.8 zoom trinity. Recently purchased the amazing X100 as well, which accompanies the 6D & 85L II.

Need moar L primes ;D

Hi Guys

I m a hobbyist and my current gear is: Canon 5d2, canon 7D, 17-40 F4, Sigma 35 1.4 and 70-200 IS 2.8 II.

I m pleased with the results of the 17-40 for Landscapes, but it`s not stelar. I`m considering the Zeiss 21 2.8, any thoughts?

Thanks
João

Last night while shooting an event, my new (2 months old) 24-70 Mk2 FELL OFF MY 5DMk3 and smashed on a tile floor. I Googled this issue and a lot of people have had this happen. I never gave it much though, but the zoom ring puts my thumb ON TOP OF the lens release button while shooting. I must've hit it accidentally and then, when zooming, rotated the lens off the camera. I tested it with my 16-35 (that I've shot with for years with no trouble) and the zoom ring is farther down the barrel, so it doesn't get bumped. Is this a design flaw with the new 24-70 or am I doing doing something different from every other photog out there? I am devastated.

I want to get a shotgun mic for my 5D3. I do not shoot a lot of video, but I plan on shooting some on my vacation over the summer. I don't want to use onboard sound since the IS on my 24-105 is pretty loud. I was looking at something like the Sennheiser MKE 400 or a Rode VideoMic.

Thanks for any suggestions.