Does this setup work? Trying to save on triggers.

I have an STE2 and a 430EXII. I plan to invest in more flashes...

I have STE2 on 5D3 hotshoe for low light focus.
A YongHuo R603C transmitter is taped/elastic banded above my STE2 but hooked to the 5D3 by a sync cable.
Another transmitter is hooked up to a 430EXII that is behind me.

I have 2 other 430EXII in front of me on flash stands, no transmitters.

I hit the shutter button. Would all fire at the same time? This is all manual mode, of course. I am thinking the STE2 would fire the 2 430EXII in front of me, while the transmitter would fire behind me.

How does Olympus get away with this?

http://www.dxomark.com/Cameras/Compare-Camera-Sensors/Compare-cameras-side-by-side/(appareil1)/909%7C0/(brand)/Olympus/(appareil2)/895%7C0/(brand2)/Canon/(appareil3)/793%7C0/(brand3)/Olympus

Take a look at the SNR 18% graph on the Measurements tab: neither Canon's nor Olympus' measured ISO values are anything near what the user believes they have set. DXO Mark's explanation is that:

"This difference stems from design choices, in particular the choice to keep some “headroom” to avoid saturation in the higher exposures to make it possible to recover from blown highlights." [http://www.dxomark.com/About/In-depth-measurements/Measurements/ISO-sensitivity]

The 70D reports ISO at about 1/4 stop over measured, but the EM5 reports it at a whole stop greater!

Presumably, both manufacturers deliberately underexpose the image and then leave instructions in the RAW file (or jpeg engine) to boost exposure by the requisite amount? This would allow extensive highlight recovery, but may also lead to greater shadow noise than necessary. Doesn't this simply mean that photographers who shoot RAW and know what the exposure histogram shows, have to factor even more ETTR into their calculations? If so, this makes the histogram even more misleading than it already is.

Has this trend been getting worse? Compare:

http://www.dxomark.com/Cameras/Compare-Camera-Sensors/Compare-cameras-side-by-side/(appareil1)/753%7C0/(brand)/Canon/(appareil2)/516%7C0/(brand2)/Canon

The old 1Ds is reporting ISO pretty accurately (at least at the lower values), whereas the 1D X is now at the seemingly standard for Canon, 1/4 stop overstated. Perhaps there is a technical reason why this is now the case that I don't understand. I believe that this makes it dangerous to rely on user reviews that make claims like "camera X produces very clean files up to ISO3200", as you now cannot compare this ISO rating (irony noted!) across brands.

Leonid Meteor Shower Nov. 15-17 (peaking Sunday Early before Sunrise!!)

Well, I thought I'd start a thread for this. Not sure if anyone will get anything...the moon is full tonight, nice and bright...and it may ruin the show. The Orionids were mooned out this year as well, and here in Colorado we had cloudcover.

The Leonids peak in the early morning hours before sunrise, which means the moon will be lower towards the western horizon. Leo will be up high in the sky, but hopefully any meteors radiating towards the east will be visible and capable of being captured by a camera.

As an extra treat, Comet ISON reached naked-eye visibility today, so it should be visible, a little below Mars near the horizon, around the same time that the Leonids peak. ISON is a fairly fast moving comet, and it hasn't brightened all that much, so with the hunter's moon you might not see anything...but still, worth a try I guess. ;)

Anyway, if you get any pictures, post 'em here!

magnification: Lens reversal vs canon 100mm L IS maco

Hi guys,

What magnifications can i achieve by lens reversal ? is it more magnified (more than life size) than a dedicated macro lens ?

i have seen amazing macro pics of eyes of insects and all, which i hardly believe been taken only with macro lens.


How much extra magnification can i achieve with an extension tube coupled with a macro lens?

what about macro filters ? are they good (keeping the sharp IQ)

I own canon 5d mark iii with 3 canon lenses namely canon 17-40mm lens, 70-200mm L IS and a canon 100mm L IS lens. Which of these lens gonna help me in getting maximum magnification straight or lens reversed ?

your suggestions will be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Help!! My 5D3 won't let me set shutter speed 1/50 for some reason???

I'm not sure what happened…

I'm getting ready to shoot some video tomorrow. I was setting the camera tonight, I set it on video mode, and trying to set the shutter speed to 50..however, it only lets me set it at 45 or 60???

Is there something somewhere I"ve mistakenly set that has kept this option from me, or am I experiencing a senior moment??

Any suggestions greatly appreciated!!!

cayenne

Owning both EF 16-35mm & EF-S 10-22mm

So I have both a FF and crop camera and generally carry both in the kit.

In terms of UWA lenses, I currently only own a EF-S 10-22mm because the distortion appears quite low @ 10mm compared to 16mm at FF from online comparisons I've seen, likely largely due to the nature of crop.

I do appreciate the greater speed of f/2.8 on the 16-35 and realize a lot of the distortion can be cleaned up in post, but I am thinking the 10-22 would still be nice to have for shots that need less post cleanup... Maybe spend the money I'd spend on a 16-35 on the 8-15 fisheye instead for intended distortion. Or perhaps a 24mm 1.4 where the speed would be more noticable in reducing DOF.

Anyway, what are thoughts for those that owned both on merits of EF-S 10-22mm vs. EF 16-35mm f/2.8 II? Let's assume the 10-22 would be mounted on a newer APS-C like 70D vs. 16-35 on 5DMKIII. I am tempted to sell the 10-22 for the 16-35, but I am not sure it would really be a clear upgrade due to the distortion differences. If its not a clear upgrade, it would be hard for me to justify the price given my dual kit.

Comments?

Lens condensation paranoia

Condensation is a bit of a topic of paranoia for me, mainly because of nightmares of lens fungus as a result of the moisture.

Question: If one were to shoot in say, 15deg F for some time, then bring the lens into a 70deg F environment while it is in a zippered (but not airtight) camera bag, would condensation form on the lens inside the zippered camera bag if it stays in there for 20min? Should I worry less about this? your thoughts? thx ;)

Canon 40mm f/2.8 Lens: Thoughts? Reviews? Is it worth getting?

Hi all,

I was just browsing around Amazon, looking at lens prices, etc...

I came across the little 40mm pancake lens...it has good reviews there, looking it is slightly wide angle, fairly fast lens....and only $150.

So, I'm wondering..is this one of those "bang for the buck" lenses? Would this be good for video? With it being so small, I can't tell if there's a manual focusing ring on it....

I was hoping someone out here that owns it could tell what they think its strengths and weaknesses are...how is it shooting wide open?

What kind of pictures do you most often take with this lens?

Anyway, for $150...I was thinking of playing with it...but wondering if so cheap, is it worth messing with at all?

Thanks in advance,

cayenne

Canon Suspends Downloading of New C300 Firmware

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<p>To Users of the Canon EOS C300 and C300PL Cinema EOS Cameras.</p>
<p><b>Details</b></p>
<p>We have suspended download services for Firmware Version 1.1.0.1.00 that was posted Tuesday November 12, 2013 at 8PM EST, because it has been determined that discrepancies in color balance can occur with footage captured by the EOS C300 and EOS C300PL running Firmware Version 1.1.0.1.00.</p>
<p>We are currently preparing new firmware with a fix for this issue and will release it as soon as it is available.</p>
<p>We are very sorry for the inconvenience, but we ask for your patience during this time.</p>
<p><b>Support</b>

We are preparing new firmware with a fix for this issue. If you have updated your EOS C300 or EOS C300PL firmware to version 1.1.0.1.00, Canon will restore the camera’s firmware version to 1.0.9.1.00 for any EOS C300 or EOS C300PL camera running firmware version 1.1.0.1.00. Please contact the Canon Customer Support Center in your region for further details.</p>

Replacing my 18-270

Just a quick question for the group mega-mind. My Tamron 18-270 (older version) bit the dust (literally, I work in the North Dakota oil patch and until they paved some key roads this summer it was like a dust storm every day). I use my 7D for newspaper work so IQ isn't the #1 priority compared to getting the photo right now, and I appreciate not having to swap lenses. So right now B&H has the Sigma 18-250 with a $200 instant rebate at $349 and the Tamron has a $70 mail in rebate at $379. I am leaning towards the Sigma because I don't think I will miss those 20 extra mm and I really don't like mail in rebates. Any thoughts one way or another on these two lenses, especially in terms of durability and weather resistance?

Basketball: #1 UConn vs #3 Stanford

Had the opportunity to shoot the reigning National Champion UConn women's basketball team in their first test of the season against #3 Stanford. Only my second time shooting basketball. Some of my favorites below. Any commentary or critique is greatly appreciated.

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What to get? Planning to strobe...

Okay guys, what should I get next?
I have:
17-40 F4L
35 F1.4
70-200 F2.8 IS II

430 EX II Flash
ST-E2 Speedlite Transmitter

I am planning to get a strobing kit soon since I prefer shooting photoshoots and portraiture, and I am in Japan atm (I am from Canada). I can get some materials like the bracket and Yongnuo transmitters cheaper here than in Canada. The question is... DO I GET TWO SETS or ONE?

I have a budget around $800.... I was maybe thinking of investing in a Sigma 85 1.4 but maybe a strobing kit is higher priority... and tripod too.

What I plan to get?
1 Double sided umbrella (100cm).
1 Light stands (Manfrotto nano).
2 Yonghuo 623C transmitters.
1 Flash bracket.

Are two strobing kits necessary for creativity and other uses? I feel like one is too basic though I know nothing about strobing >_> so should I invest in two sets or one? And I see everyone moving to the 600exRT, which makes my STE2 transmitter useless? Is there any use for STE2 transmitter? :( I bought it along with the 430 EXII as a package deal.

Thanks for any help.

Panda 4x4 video

My Fiat Panda 4x4 review.

Wanted to use an alternate opening shot as I wasn't happy with the light (sun flare, or reflection from building) or level of traffic noise, however Presenter wasn't happy with appearance in my preferred take (UWA lenses can do that) Otherwise I'd stand up in court and defend this quite happily.. Quite a cool wee car, I know the yanks just won't get it at all.

http://youtu.be/RMy4zmuVdZQ

Lion at Night - Kruger National Park, South Africa

We came across these lions one evening on a night drive from Skukuza camp. The males were restless and walking all around a lioness in heat...there are many more of my African wildlife & other images here on my Zenfolio website . . .http://ivanmuller.zenfolio.com/ Please have a look and give me some feedback!

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What tripod and head to shooters of 300 2.8 II use while traveling?

Hi all. I am serious about upgrading to the 300 2.8 II and in a few months, my lens fund will be topped off. I am interested to hear pros and cons for light weight stable tripod/head combos for wildlife shooting for the lens. Currently I shoot 5D!!! ( may get a 1DX someday), and have a Wimberley WH-200 Gimbal Tripod Head II with Quick Release Base, which I love ( Thank you for the advice Neuro). Anyway, time to start planning for the upgrade and all suggestions appreciated.

Big whites

Why doesn't Canon ever offer rebates on the big whites as they do other lenses? There is most likely as much if not more of a profit margin in them making it very feasible to do. I guess it may be because they figure if you can afford that much, a $500 or more rebate won't stop you from buying it? I've often wondered about this because I don't think I've ever seen rebates on big whites.

Things to get when you purchase a 600mm?

Getting more and more sure about that I will empty my account in a couple of month for a 600mm.
I don´t have any gear at all to use with a "great white" so for you who use them or another one of the big ones what do you recommend.

What I know I need is:

Gimbal head = Any suggestions? Thinking of getting a Wimberley because so many are using them and seems satisfied.

Tripod = Thinking of Gitzo GT3542XLS. I know that it´s long but might be useful. Any other suggestions?

Replacement foot / "Arca Swiss plate" = Not sure if I need it. Do you recommend it? Pros and cons?

Quick release clamp = Have no idea if that is useful.

Camo-cover for the lens. = Lens coat or any other brand you recommend?

"Leg warmers" for tripod = Lens coat or any other brand you recommend?

A long list and I guess some might have better ideas than me of what I need. RRS is too expensive when it comes to tripods so even if they are better than Gitzo I think I will be satisfied with a less expensive tripod than RRS.

I have no friends that uses lenses like this so there is no one I can ask for advise. Only times I have seen these lenses is on fairs and those are too crowded to get advises from sales people.

Nikon D5300, now shipping

Once again, evolutionary improvements on an already good Nikon consumer series body leave competitors behind in many metrics.. and price.

One of these is on my xmas list. 2 more if it performs really well.

They seem to have changed the grip to body spacing a little from previous models, I hope it's still comfortable to hold like the 5100/5200.
WiFi and GPS abilities, + 1080P at 60fps will be features useful to some.

Zeiss 50 Makro-Planar used as a normal 50 -- Focus accuracy?

I guess my main use for this lens would be as a normal 50 and occasionally as a macro lens. What I'm most interested in hearing from users of this lens is if you're using this as a general walk-around lens, do you rely on the focus confirmation indicator or do you mostly use this lens locked down on a tripod and magnified live-view to nail focus at f2? I've also read that the focus throw at roughly 3'-infinity is only about 30 degrees while the remaining 270 degrees of focus throw is dedicated to MFD - ~2' which makes it better for macro purposes for sure but maybe not ideal for general street photography.

Any thoughts you have on this would be appreciated. (Though not similar, I've found focus confirmation on my Zeiss 21 Distagon using a 5D3 very accurate even wide open at 2.8 (obviously more DOF and a stop slower than the 50 MP).

Thanks for any input you have.

Review: Zeiss 15mm f/2.8 Distagon

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<p><strong>From The-Digital-Picture

</strong>Bryan from TDP has completed his review of the highly regarded <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/850101-REG/Zeiss_1964831_Distagon_T_15mm_f_2_8.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">Zeiss 15mm f/2.8 Distagon lens</a>. His thoughts on the lens match mine, it is simply the best full frame ultrawide lens available for Canon DSLRs.</p>
<p><strong>Says Bryan

</strong><em>“As I just said, I regard the Zeiss 15mm f/2.8 Distagon T* ZE Lens as the best-available ultra-wide angle landscape lens available. This lens is also an excellent choice for architecture and other confined-space photography. The Zeiss 15mm f/2.8 Distagon T* ZE Lens offers very impressive build quality and excellent prime lens image quality in a made-for-landscape and architecture focal length.”</em><strong>

</strong></p>
<p><strong><a href="http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Zeiss-15mm-f-2.8-ZE-Distagon-Lens-Review.aspx" target="_blank">Read the full review</a> | <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/850101-REG/Zeiss_1964831_Distagon_T_15mm_f_2_8.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">Zeiss 15mm f/2.8 Distagon at B&H Photo</a>

</strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

Sony A7-A7R pre-ordered @ 200% bigger than expected

By Sony: “the pre-ordered quantities are almost 200% bigger than expected"

http://www.sonyalpharumors.com/from-source-sony-a7-a7r-preorders-200-more-than-expected-from-sony-sony-a7r-review-at-cameralabs/

Ok...let see more prime lenses please :o
--------------------------------------------------------

Added: Found some photos: http://www.chipchick.com/2013/11/sony-a7-a7r-sample-photos.html

Canon EOS 5D Mk III handling annoyances

I’ve owned the 5D Mk III for about nine moths, so I'm using it as an example, but these issues apply to a greater or lesser degree to all the mid-range bodies. I am aware the others have made most of these points before, but I still wish to add my (albeit humble) voice to their cause.

[list type=decimal]


[*]The meter is biased too strongly towards the active AF point. How about a separate metering mode or a custom feature to allow this to be changed, like the AF system's menus?

[*]The control layout is not well designed for use with camera to the eye; (unlike the 1DX or D800) it lacks enough displays in the viewfinder to allow easy changing of metering mode; white balance; AF mode and drive mode. Somewhat perversely, you have to look back through the viewfinder to change the AF points and area options, as there is no display for these on either the top LCD or Q-Menu. It also places too many buttons in a line: i.e. meter/white balance; AF/drive mode; ISO/flash exposure compensation and display light. As the buttons are all of a similar size, this makes it very difficult to make adjustments by feel with the camera to your eye1. I might also make this argument about the AF-ON, exposure lock and AF point select buttons.

[*]With the custom modes (C1-C3), there are two options: enable or disable auto updating of custom setting. Neither of these options is optimal; if you enable, the risk is that you change mode, or use the camera on a different occasion and easily forget that you made changes last time. If you disable auto updating, then as soon as the camera goes to sleep, you lose the changes that you made to the settings –just marvellous when you’re waiting for the light or trying to put a filter on! The simple solution would be to have the camera able to distinguish between ‘sleep’ mode and hard shutdown with the ON/OFF switch used.

[*]The histogram and highlight alerts (“blinkies”) are not as useful as they could be. For a start, they need to be on a different colour background to the rest of the screen, so that you can see where the scale ends. For RAW shooters, there must be some way of basing the histogram on something other than an 8-bit jpeg output. Canon must be aware that RAW conversion software (including their own) is capable of recovering more highlight information; we need a bigger histogram with a scale in EV that better reflects what the sensor is recording.

[*]The ON/OFF switch is still in a sub-optimal position (although better than on the 5D Mk II); Nikon, Sony and Pentax all put it around the shutter release… Come on Canon, take a hint!
[/list]

1(OK, ISO/flash exp comp has a nipple –but it isn’t exactly easy to feel the difference, especially when wearing gloves).

Does anyone else find these annoying? Do you know of any settings changes that would help that I may have missed (before anyone asks: no, I haven’t read the entire 404 pages of the user manual front to back!)? Are there any other handling issues that get in the way of your shooting?

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