I'm just wondering how much these lens can stand up to without damaging anything internally. Has anyone here had any mishaps?

I was on a power boat the other day and I was leaning over the side when a bounce caused my to slightly ding the bottom of the barrel against passenger side windshield. Everything seemed to work okay afterwards, but it got me thinking/worrying about possible damage or misalignment of elements.

Hi all. Finally bit the bullet and bought an x. It's just arrived and is sat in my lap as I watch tv, drink beer to celebrate and try to look through the custom functions. Different to my mk 4 I must say, chunky, handles great and very easy to look over. Top quality as expected. Anyway, I'm off to work tomorrow then it's holiday in Venice, seals, deer and Griffon Vultures. Taking the old 1ds3 to Venice but it's the bird stuff I need help with. My mk4 is set the way I like but the x? I just don't have time to practice before I'm off shooting. Any x owners got any advice on set ups for birds in flight, big birds pretty predictable but still fast and big slow deer. Any help will be very much appreciated, I honestly just don't have time to set it up. I'll compare the 1ds3, 1d4 and the x as soon as I'm back. Now, back to annoying the wife .

Hi,

I would very much like some advice in determining which lenses to sell if any.

For bodies, I have a 6D and T1i. For lenses, I have:

Canon's:
24-105L
70-300L
100L Macro (as soon as it's delivered!)
40mm pancake
EF 28-105 USM (bought in 2001, probably v1)
EF-S 18-55
EF-S 55-250 (bought in 2009 so assuming v1)

Tamron's:
60mm Macro
18-270 (PZD version).

Of course, I'm keeping all of my L lenses and the 40mm, it's the others I'm not sure so about.

The only lens I know for sure that I am planning to sell the Tamron 60 mm Macro.

In terms of what I like to shoot: my travels, landscapes, wildlife, flowers, people (often casual portraits or group shots) and architecture.

I don't mind having some redundant backup lenses, but I'm thinking that I have too much at this point. Any thoughts you have will be appreciated and considered.

Cheers,

Vivid

Pretty impressive results on deblurring and CA correction on images produced by a hand-bulit simple lens.

http://www.cs.ubc.ca/labs/imager/tr/2013/SimpleLensImaging/

SimpleLensImaging Heide2013 on Vimeo

'Upgraded' from a Canon 60d to a Canon 6d and also now using a canon 1.2 50mm instead of a 1.4 30mm sigma. I was aware of the 6d moire issues before buying but always had good results with my 60d and looking at 5d mkii - which are supposed to have the same issues.

BUT THE 6D IS NOTICEABLY WORSE! - I have done 2 videos with the 6d and 1.2 50mm and they have both got moire on simple things like guitar strings and guitar edges. I NEVER had this with the 60d and sigma 1.4.

Yes sharpening is off.

What do I do? Is a 6d with the mosaic engineering filter a better option (considering its cheaper) than upgrading to a 5d mkiii?

After reading too many posts to remember where people are wondering if they should wait for the next big thing, I want to offer some advice:

[list type=decimal]
[*]If the lens/camera JUST came out (and isn't a Rebel), it will be years before the next one, so please don't ask about the 200-400 1.4x II or 6D II anytime soon
[*]If it's a lens, buy the current one if you need it. If they announce a new one right away, you can either return the lens you just bought (if possible) or sell it for nearly or sometimes even more than what you just paid
[*]If it's a body, check the timelines of how often Canon updates them. The 1D series is many years apart, the 5D (and probably 6D) is 3-4 years apart, the x0D series about 2 years, and the Rebels about a year. If it's been that long since the current model came out, deal with what you have or buy the current model if you need it. Bodies, unlike lenses, don't hold their value well, so it can be worth the wait in some cases. Of course, Canon doesn't always follow these timelines (5D III for example) so it's harder to play the waiting game.
[*]Finally, most lenses are only refreshed every 5-7 years, at best, and those are usually the common Pro lenses (24-70, 70-200). Other lenses like the 50 f/1.4 may never get an upgrade as long they keep selling so well. Or maybe it just seems like it.
[/list]
I'm sure other members will have better advice to tack onto this post.

Hi,

I'm visiting the US (Chicago) next month...can anyone recommend a reputable Canon dealer so I can pick up some cheaper gear (cheaper than UK anyway!).

Thanks!

Dave

With all the smartphone cameras and other want to be photographers our there, have any of you pro wedding photographers experienced this:

http://fstoppers.com/attending-a-wedding-soon-be-sure-to-watch-this-video

Are "High ISO" noise and "long exposure" (at low ISO) noise the same qualitatively? Or is one slightly more managegable than the other? (Practical Reference: When photographing a night scene of a city is it preferable to choose high ISO and faster shutter speed, or is it preferable to choose low ISO slower shutter speed, assuming I do not want to consider the motion blur of moving subjects resulting from slower shutter speed as a factor)

Hello guys

Is there any possibility of a problem or harm to my CANON camera body (60D) if I attach a Nikon SB-700 speed light in manual mode in the hotshoe of the canon?

Also can you tell me if i can use it off camera with a wireless transmitter and trigger...may be yongnuo

Hi,

This is my first post even if I have followed this forum for long time.

I was shooting today bird time lapse sequence with Canon 5D mark III + 70-200 F2.8 IS II. Sequence ended just after sunset. I took one exposure in every three seconds. Exposure settings were M mode, F2.8, 1.6 seconds and auto ISO. I took more than one thousand pictures. First picture was taken with ISO 160 and last with ISO 4000. ND 400 filter was used to get long exposures.

It was however strange that almost 400 pictures at the end were shot with ISO 4000. Pictures were more and more underexposed towards to end. First ISO 4000 picture was correctly exposed. I got an idea to calculate exposure value of last pictures. It is EV -3 !!! According to specifications almost all Canon DSLRs are metering between 1-20 EV. I should not get -3 EV exposure metered but somehow I did

I made some further testing. I managed to meter -5 EV with Sigma 85mm F1.4 (1s, F1.4, auto ISO 6400). Also other -5 EV exposure parameter combinations were possible. I did not use ND filter with these additional tests. So it seems that 5D mark III meters up to -6 EV with F1.0 lens. Every stop of lens brigtness drops this result by one stop.

My friend tested Canon 30D metering with EF-S 17-85 zoom. I understood that he tried metering with full zoom in Av mode and lens cap on. Exposure paramters were F5.6 and ISO 100. Resulted exposure time was ten seconds. That gives exposure value of one and two thirds of a stop (1.7 EV).

Does anyone have explanation to my findings?

-Teemu

Higher resolution LCD screens

If Canon were to produce an LCD with the same pixel pitch (326 ppi) as the iPhone 4-5S and the 3:2 aspect ratio it would have a resolution of -
3.0": 814 x 542 (1.32 million dot)
3.2": 868 x 579 (1.51 million dot)
3.5": 960 x 640 (1.84 million dot) - same size as iPhone 4/4S

If Canon were to produce an LCD with the same pixel pitch (441 ppi) as the Samsung Galaxy S4 and 3:2 AR it would be -
3.0": 1100 x 733 (2.42 million dot)
3.2": 1174 x 783 (2.76 million dot)
3.5": 1284 x 856 (3.30 million dot)

Better than the current 720 x 480 (1.04 million dot) displays (288 ppi @ 3", 270 ppi @ 3.2"), and could allow Canon to tout the highest resolution LCD on any DSLR (Samsung would still have the biggest, though, with the almost-unusably-large Galaxy series at 4.8"). Does anyone know what type of panel technology is used in current DSLR LCDs (TN, MVA, PVA, IPS, eIPS, etc)?

What are your thoughts?

My church is hosting a marathon in a month or so. I've been asked to shoot some photos. I'm not a pro (since I don't get paid) but I consider myself a 5 year DSLR advanced enthusiast. I shoot a lot of outdoor scout events, camping, school swim meets and church activities. I own a 5D3, 6D and several decent L lenses, flashes, etc. So with that said, I'm looking for advice gained from other forum members' experience shooting marathon/running events. Logistics, composition ideas, pre-planning, lens choices, lighting challenges, possible dual body use, etc. I might even get a photog friend or two to help me cover more locations. I love picking up new skills and experience but I prefer to be as prepared as possible when time permits. All constructive thoughts appreciated!

Hello, friends. I have just completed and published my fairly extensive review of the Rokinon/Samyang 14mm f/2.8 lens. Some of you have been asking questions about the lens as I have been posting pictures from it over the past couple of weeks. Hopefully this will answer them. Thanks for your time:

http://www.dustinabbott.net/2013/10/rokinon-14mm-f2-8-wide-angle-review/

Hi all, with this video, you are going to see the potential of the new Canon EOS 6D.
Important: The images have not been manipulated in post-production, so this is the natural quality of the images from the Canon EOS 6D.
Best regards.

Mediterranean landscape in all it's glory. Canon eos 6D

http://www.canonwatch.com/whats-1-series-camera-body-model-marking-pointing-canon-event-october/

does the 1 body without model markings mean something... what do you think?

A Guy I work with is into Bird Photography. Since we are all challenged by distances, he mentioned that if I was willing to go manual, that this might be an option:

http://www.swarovskioptik.com/nature/equipment-c210703

It might be a bit pricey, but if it can do decent 1700mm equivalent shots, might be worth the price.

Anyone used this sort of non-standard set-up? What are the results like.

Those brazen plagiarists at Yongnuo are at it again. They're about to launch a Canon RT compatible trigger with an RT compatible flash to follow.

http://www.lightingrumours.com/new-yongnuo-triggers-flashes-fully-compatible-canon-rt-system-4728

I am getting more serious about wildlife photography and recently switched camps from Nikon to Canon. Loving the Canon glass I have been shooting. One thing though for budget wildlife photography that Nikon currently has going for it is the D7100's "reach" between being able to AF with teleconverters at F8 (for example the 80-400 + 1.4TC) as well as the 24mp pixel density.

Do others think Canon will try to keep up paces and add F8 AF abilities in the 7DmkII, like implemented in the 5DmkIII, to keep up paces with the D7100? The 400mm F5.6L + 1.4TC on a 24ish megapixel crop sensor would be a budget/travel wildlife photographer's dream! At least for me. Curious if others think the demand is there for this AF implementation to make it to crop sensors in Canon land.

Cheers -L

I have the ultimate in lenses for my T1i and was wondering if much would stand to be potentially gained by moving up to a 70D. I do it all with maybe 40% or so of my photography being indoor volleyball (where 6400 ISO is common).

So I'm pretty pleased with the T1i, but am wondering if I'm missing out and if it would be a nice step up from a Rebel without being overly complicated/minimal learning curve and maybe something like a 7D being maybe more features than I'd need.

Thanks for any insight.

Is the 100-400 mark 2 still coming out this year?

Seems like every few months there's a rumor that it's around the quarter, but 2013 is almost done and still nothing from Canon.

The last I saw was that it was due out "around the time" of the 200-400 release. Maybe I missed something...

I just read a comment by PBD as to how the 50mm f/1.4 was extremely sharp at f/8. I checked out my photos and found (to my dismay) that I couldn't confirm this because over 90% of my shots were at wide open or at f/1.8 or f/2.

Then I proceeded to check my other lenses. I was surprised to find that most of my shots (again approximately 80-90%) were at wide open.

How do you guys shoot? Do you tend to shoot at max aperture most of the times?

Cheers ... J.R.

I've seen rumors that Nikon is working on cameras that can have an interchangeable sensor. I found it interesting and also clever marketwise. At this moment the cameras ar covering pretty well the photographers needs, and it can become interesting to start to sell specific sensor for the diverse kind of shooting (high iso specific sensor, a low clean one and so on). ithink that there is a chance to sell many of them.
Now, I found really strange that Canon, that's producing both Camera and Sensors is not working on something similar.
Canon il the market leader and could set a standard for all the companies, no?

I visited Niagara Falls this past weekend. This was my first time shooting there. I briefly looked at some tips and chose to stay on the Canadian side. I had my 5D Mark III, 16-35mm II and 24-70 I. I also had polarizers and Hoya 9-stop ND filters. A tripod too. I got there about 6:30PM, check in and went to the falls. I did not realize how wet it is near the horseshoe falls. I ended up walking down to the near the American Falls and photographing both the American falls and the Horseshoe from there. The photos in the night were blah. Pitch black and they actually put the damn lights on at 8:30PM!!! By that time in later September, the sun has already set (7:00PMish) and its dark. Even with the falls lit my long shutters were boring. Way too bright against the night sky. I concluded that if they light the falls up at 8:30PM, you should visit around July, where the sun actually sets at that time and you can get some nice shots with orange/blue/purple sky. Also, even though I walked to the America falls, I got wet, so I suggest weather sealed bodies/lenses. The next day was a bit better. I waited for the sun to be high south and took some shots using my tripod and the ND filter. I were pretty happy with those. Also, I found that on a full frame, I had mt 24-70mm on the entire time. My 16-35mm was a bit too wide for what I was shooting. Let me know about any shooting experiences you've had at the falls and any recommendations. I will definitely be back next year for round two!!

Wow...I was amazed to see this one:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oReLN5nntKw&feature=player_embedded#t=1

I mean, I've heard of officiants getting testy inside of church buildings, but even then, usually setting the rules before the ceremony.

This guy blows up in the MIDDLE of the ceremony, embarrassing the bride and groom....and this ceremony was OUTDOORS.

I read one quote someone made on YouTube that I agreed with. The groom should have leaned into the priests ear and said something like "I'm paying the photographers much like I'm paying you, please continue. And..if you do walk out, I'll sue your ass off, now, please get back to marrying us..."

cayenne