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Transitioning to Primes

So I've had the 24-70 II and 70-200 II for some time now and they are wonderful pieces of kit, but I simply can't get over this incessant longing to replace them with primes; they just feel more natural to me, and the weight/size/faster aperture are major factors in my decision.

Therefore, I've decided to replace these two zooms with the following lenses and I am hoping those of you with some experience can give me your honest feedback:

Option 1
Canon 24 f/1.4L II
Canon 40 f/2.8 STM
Canon 85 f/1.2L II
Canon 135 f/2L or Canon 200 f/2.8L II

or

Option 2
Canon 10-22 or Tokina 11-16 II
Sigma 18-35 f/1.8
Canon 40 f/2.8 STM
Canon 85 f/1.2L II
Canon 135 f/2L or Canon 200 f/2.8L II

or

Option 3
? ? ?

Eventually I'll upgrade the 135 or 200 f/2.8 to the 200 f/2 when funds warrant such a purchase, but for now I'll have to make do combined with the 1.4x III and 2x III teleconverters. I'll be using all of these lenses both on my two FF cameras and also on my 70D (with exception to the UWAs in Option 2, and the Sigma 18-35 would only be acceptable between 24-35).

Side note: I mostly do portraits and street photography, but I'll occasionally do an amateur sporting event as well. All casually.

Thanks in advance.

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Viewfinder display

The information displayed in the viewfinder like the shutter speed and aperture is cut off at the bottom, for example, the battery level is showing as if the battery is flat but I know the battery is full. Or the bottom of say the number 0 just shows three sides.

Any idea what is happening here?
Thanks

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Whats up with the....

Squishy shutter button?

Obviously, I'm coming from the rebel line...

So there are some things I miss, like the tilt-swivel screen, but I can live without it.

But I have to ask, whats up with the squishy shutter buttons on the 7D to Mark III.

Even when I tried out the 6D, it didn't have that squishiness... for me there has to be a certainty that I pressed it and it worked.

In the rebel line and the 6D, you push it and you hear a click and it stops.

But the pro line seems to have a spring of some sort, any specific reason?

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Canon succeeds in capturing nighttime video of Yaeyama-hime fireflies using dedicated 35 mm full-fra

HTML:
<div name="googleone_share_1" style="position:relative;z-index:5;float: right; /*margin: 70px 0 0 0;*/ top:70px; right:120px; width:0;"><g:plusone size="tall" count="1" href="http://www.canonrumors.com/2013/09/canon-succeeds-in-capturing-nighttime-video-of-yaeyama-hime-fireflies-using-dedicated-35-mm-full-frame-cmos-sensor-for-video-capture/"></g:plusone></div><div style="float: right; margin:0 0 70px 70px;"><a href="https://twitter.com/share" class="twitter-share-button" data-count="vertical" data-url="http://www.canonrumors.com/2013/09/canon-succeeds-in-capturing-nighttime-video-of-yaeyama-hime-fireflies-using-dedicated-35-mm-full-frame-cmos-sensor-for-video-capture/">Tweet</a></div>
<p><strong>TOKYO, Japan, September 12, 2013</strong>—Canon Inc. has successfully captured video footage of Yaeyama-hime fireflies flying in darkness, a feat made possible by the high-sensitivity 35 mm full-frame CMOS sensor developed by Canon for video capture that was announced in March 2013.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="http://www.canon.com/news/2013/img/sep12a.jpg" width="336" height="189" />

Yaeyama-hime fireflies amid jungle vegetation (Photomontage created from video footage)</p>
<p><img alt="" src="http://www.canon.com/news/2013/img/sep12b.jpg" width="260" height="189" />

35 mm full-frame CMOS sensor for Full HD video capture</p>
<p>The high-sensitivity, low-noise video-shooting capabilities of the dedicated 35 mm full-frame CMOS sensor1 for Full HD video capture were made possible not only through the integration of the high-performance sensor technologies employed in Canon’s digital SLR cameras, but also through the incorporation of new pixel and readout circuitry technologies that reduce noise.</p>
<p>Using a camera prototype equipped with the CMOS sensor, Canon, in cooperation with ZERO CORPORATION,2 succeeded in capturing video3 of the Yaeyama-hime fireflies that inhabit Japan’s Ishigaki Island, located off the northeastern coast of Taiwan. No artificial lighting was used during shooting, which took place after sunset amid the island’s mountains. Despite an exceptionally dark shooting environment4 of less than 0.01 lux, a level in which the naked eye would have difficulty discerning surrounding objects, the CMOS sensor was able to capture not only the color of the light emitted by the fireflies, each of which measures only a few millimeters in length, and their movements, but also the surrounding vegetation in which the species lives. Plans call for the footage to be used to benefit future research into the Yaeyama-hime firefly.</p>
<p>In addition to astronomical and natural observation, Canon is looking into applying this CMOS sensor to medical research purposes as well as surveillance and crime-prevention equipment. Through the further development of innovative CMOS sensors, Canon aims to expand the realm of photographic possibilities while cultivating the world of visual expression.</p>
<p><strong><a href="http://www.canon.com/news/2013/sep12e.html" target="_blank">Read the press release for example video</a></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

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Lighting large groups, help needed!

Hey guys I would like some advice on a job I'm doing at the end of the month. It's going to be a series of group shots of employees for a company. It's a busy schedule over 2 days and there will be two shots with 30 people. I have pretty much full creative control and the possibility of doing the shots outside the front entrance. They also want about 30 headshots / ID type shots. The images will them be used in a magazine.

I was wondering how you guys would approach this purely from a lighting perspective. Lenses and camera choice is already sorted, no shortages there! However in terms of lighting equipment I only have 2 shoot through umbrellas and 5 speedlites. (1 430exII, 2 YN-560II and just ordered 2 YN-560III)

I was thinking to try bouncing the speedlite off a wall or ceiling but then I keep coming up with more complex set ups with backlighting and all sorts. I think I'm over thinking this especially since the schedule is tight.

There will be about 30 mins max for set up and execution. Then I get driven to a different location - about 4 in total. Since it's multiple locations (all offices) i can't really scout them out and research so am going in blind.

What is your tried and true lighting set up for groups of 8 and groups of 30. Plus what works best for employee head shots?

Any help or advice would be great!

Thanks!

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5DII Sensor Damage

Sadly, after having my 5DII for over 2 years and using it for stills and video (although I'm a filmmaker, so the video part is favored), I've noticed what appears to be burn in on the sensor.

I just did a video shoot today and noticed the pink spots in the lower right quadrant of the frame in my footage, and am now going through all of my footage to see exactly when the spots started.

Can anyone here confirm this as burn in?

And can Canon fix it (for a price) if it is indeed burn in?

I am turning to CanonRumors because I know I can trust you guys.

Thanks!

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Did I make the wrong decision?

Just picked up a brand new 24L ii for $1,350. I'm starting to think I shouldn't of went this wide.

First of let me start off with what I shoot. Automotive photography is what I do. The 135L is my sniper and that's almost 85% of my on-location lens. I do occasionally attend events/car shows which is the "prime" reason I got this lens. I am disappointed in the fact that 24mm is almost too wide for me. The distortion isn't much from afar, but the closer you get, the more you want to back up. I just started testing waters in portraiture, and this lens is the absolute last piece of glass I should be using for that type of work.

Also, I can honestly say I haven't seen the value of (retail) $1,500 in this lens. The image quality is great, but for some reason the lens doesn't POP like I'd expect it to.

My question to you guys: Should I sell for the same price I payed, and look into the Sigma 35mm? I'm not interested in the Canon model as of right now. I've seen plenty of comparisons and the Sigma wins my vote. I'd put the left over money into some other piece of glass, or maybe even a 600EX-RT.

Thanks a lot in advance for the feedback.

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Canon 6D Viewfinder Junk Accumulation

Hello everyone,

I purchased a Canon 6D back in June and have been loving it! It's my first foray into full frame. Anyway, I've noticed that my viewfinder has really accumulated a lot of specs and dust. I never had this on the rebels I've owned before, and I change lenses less with this camera than I did with those (fewer lenses and I find the 24-105 works really well for my needs). The specs don't show up in any photos, just in the viewfinder. I'm not concerned about them, persay, but I was just curious if any one else who owns a 6D has noticed this or if it's unique to mine.

Thanks all!

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Whats wrong with my XTi

I bought this Camera in late 2007 used condition. I just used with auto mode all the years till last year. Last year I started learning on my own and it is gr8 experience to come out of auto mode.

In the process I observed that I could update it to latest firmware and I did it.

Off late I observed a problem with my camera. When camera power is off and if I take out the memory card and leave camera as is, after some time, I see display turns on and couple of times, it drained out complete battery.

Anyone experienced this issue? Any suggestion?

Thanks

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5D3 Shooting in a bar at night: What ISO, Fstop would you guess?

I'm going to be helping do a shoot for a charity which involves a bar crawl here in New Orleans.

I'm using my 5D3....as per another thread I've had going, I may be renting a 50L f/1.2 lens to round out what I have:

70-200L f/288
85mm f/1.8
17-40L f/4

I have the 24-1-5L f/4 kit lens too. I was thinking of taking the first three if I don't get the 50L, which I might, if I did...I might drop the 85mm..maybe? I will need the 70-200 for earlier in the evening when shooting in daylight to balconies in Jackson Square...

Anyway, I'm going to try to get permission to shoot sample footage in the bars over the next week..but can someone give me some good numbers to try to shoot for so as to get good exposed footage, minimize noise?

I'm going for 24fps. Setting shutter speed to 50. I know ISO should be in multiples of 160..does that hold true in HIGH ISO's? What kind of ISO's am I looking for....at what fstops?

Again, this will be in various bars..some better lit than others, but none of them are going to be terribly bright, lots of neon signs, etc. I do want to get that ambiance a bit, but I want to also be able to see my people in these....

Again, I'm going to try to go scout and take notes, but looking for suggestions from others as to what settings worked for them in similar situations to give me a good starting point!!

Thanks in advance,

cayenne

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Olympus OM-D EM-1

It seems that Olympus was now completely abandoned four-thirds for the mirror less micro four thirds.... I think everyone knew it would happen, but now it is official.

Interestingly enough, the OM-D EM-1 uses on chip phase detection for focusing (shades of 70D, but only 37 points) and a 2.3 megapixel EVF. Kind of makes one wonder if the Rebel line will slowly be replaced by the EOS-M line.... Mirrorless is steadily getting better...

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Is the future USM or STM? Or both..

I've been wondering for a while at which direction canon is going with the newer STM tech lenses. I really can't say anything negative on how the STM lenses perform but there are advantages to the older USM lenses. Such as ring able to focus the lens without power. But then, I'm not sure exactly which is better per se. Maybe you guys know about this? Will we see L glass with STM?? Or is it just an "APS-C" thing. Maybe we'll see dual pixel af thing in all future camera bodies thus STM L lenses? Maybe this is too vague/not important. Opinions? Know-abouts? ???

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Canon New vs. Refurb

Hi All,

I've been reading CR for about a year and decided to post for the first time today. I mainly shoot landscapes and some occasional portraiture, as well as faster moving subjects like horses and softball.

I have a 7D and 50D which I have generally been very happy with in good lighting, but am considering the move up to a 5D III, mainly for its low light capabilities. I tried out a 6D at a local camera store and just wasn't impressed with it's auto focus coming from a 7D. I'm sure Canon did this on purpose to up-sell 5D III.

So here's my major question: What (if anything) is different between new and refurbished gear, and why would such a new camera already be available as a refurbished product through Canon's website? Is this mainly due to the light leak problem?

Probably I would sell the 50D and my f/1.4 24mm II and go after the FF body by the end of the year.

Many thanks!

You can see my pics at www.soyscapes.com

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6D body ergonomics versus 5D

Hi,

I have a 5Dii and use it for shooting conferences and events. I do need to get a second body as an insurance - and to let me use a couple of primes in fast moving situations - and was considering the 6D.

I had a look at one in store and was very impressed by its solidity and quality feel. However, I tried it with my 135L straight off the 5Dii and after taking test shots for a few minutes noticed the smaller body, which I thought would be appealing, meant my little finger felt a bit cramped at the base.

This was after a few minutes which I found a bit unexpected. Thinking back I don't know if it was because I was holding the thing awkwardly while trying to use the pad (alas no joystick). Anyone else try a 5 series body and 6 and care to comment based on longer term usage?

Naturally a grip would circumvent the issue, I guess.

Overall though the 6D does seem exceptional value so awfully tempting (although a WiFi 5D mk IV would be ideal if that lottery win comes through...)

Thanks all!

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