Lenses to be used in this scenario: 300 f/2.8 II, 70-200 f/2.8 IS II, 24-70 f/2.8 II.

When shooting anything action sports related I am pretty sure I would lean towards the 1Dx for the AF speed and FPS numbers. But, what about general purpose shooting of family/friends at events both indoors and out or nature and wildlife shooting? Is either body a clear cut better choice? Would the 5D3 be better in that you have more pixels to crop with? Or would the 1Dx prevail for a larger pixel size and overall IQ? Does one offer better contrast over the other? Or are they pretty much even in that regards?

All things like shooting conditions being equal. Is there any scenario where you would see a gripped 5D3 being the better option where you would consider leaving the 1Dx at home?

Hey guys,

I only started with timelapses this year, but here is what I got so far.

https://vimeo.com/73529513

If I attach a 600ex-rt to a 6D with a 70-200 2.8 II (or any other heavy lens), is it safe to grab the body of the flash? I don't mean grabbing it once in a while, but consistently, habitually. Has anyone heard of stories of hotshoe snapping?

Among other things, I shoot a lot of motocross throughout the spring and summer season. Pretty much most weekends. I have often thought that a drop-in circular polarizing filter for my 300/2.8 would be a good idea to reduce glare from goggles and face masks, as well as to enrich colours and perhaps tone down some highlights.

I decided to go ahead and have ordered one. As an afterthought (I have a lot of those), I was wondering if introducing that filter would have any negative effect on the speed and/or accuracy of the AF. Anyone out there with any experience with one that could answer that question for me?

Hello.
Is there ANY reason I should consider not installing magic lantern on my 5d3?
Large file size and faster cards is not an issue, IQ is.

Please advice.

Thank you!

Anybody got experience with this brand? I've used one and found it seems it loses more light than Hoya HD. Aside from that, I didn't notice any color cast so far.

I'm also dealing with an irritated wife, so I can't really bring a studio in a bag to the room... I've been bouncing light off the ceiling and side walls reasonably effectively, but I'm also noticing some scratches along the baby's skin, so I have been softening the photos in post. I personally think most babies look really awful shortly after having emerged from the womb, so I'd appreciate any suggestions on how you think I should photograph them. I have been using an 85mm f/1.8 as my lens of choice and mixing in some wide photos using the 24-105.

Thanks for the help.

I do web design on the side, and I received a professional photographer's pics from his Nikon D4. He had a few file types for each picture. One of them was Windows related and each file was around 100MB. The web pics he left me were around 10MB. I am planning on getting a Canon 1DX in the future, and I am wondering how big the files will be. The same as the Nikon D4 at 100MBs each?

Lens cap shots. You bet!

Well, I had to process them using DNG-converter 8.2rc but that's likely adequate for now.

What I can see is that the noise structure of the 70D's sensor is still typical Canon; lots of noise in the red and blue channels and still a fair bit in green but the noise structures at base ISO are mostly fine-grained and should respond well to NR software.

There is still some larger structured noise banding tho it's mostly broad horizontal banding and unlikely to severely impact most images. Dark-sky photographers pushing to look for dim details my be about the only ones who would run into problems.

edit: BUT - I accidentally took the first 100 ISO dark shot with the info display activated, so rear LCD was ON. The resulting noise levels were much higher (~ between 400 & 800 iso dark shots) than the next 100 iso shot when I turned the display OFF. The 100 iso dark shot with LCD display ON had much more red channel noise than any of the other shots.

200 and 400 ISO are similar but the noise structures are (more balanced) with both H & V elements. Again, these are quite fine and will probably respond very well to typical NR software.

Noise starts to pick up at 800 ISO, noise structure similar to iso 400

1600 and 3200 iso show increasing overall noise levels as expected. Noise structures become a little more obvious but, again, would respond well to NR software and only pushed large areas of continuous shades or tones may bely some of this non-uniformity.

6400 and 12800 are pretty noisy and continue to show some banding structures in both H & V axis but

OVERALL, THIS LOOKS TO BE CANON'S BEST APS-C SENSOR IN A LONG TIME.

FPN exists but is at a workably low level and may even be comparable to Toshiba's new sensor as far as noise structures. However, overall TOTAL NOISE is still much higher than the Sony or Toshiba sensors and this will reduce effective maximum DR somewhat but that can be partly negated with NR software.

I would not steer anyone away from using this camera, it's comparable to the 6D for noise quality and certainly bests my 60D and blows away the 7D I used to have.

If you need the ultimate in clean black levels in your raw files then this is still not the camera for you.

BUT, using some decent noise-reduction software you can comfortably use the 70D in ways that the 7D and 60D before it would disappoint. The 70D is "good enough" for most uses unless you're as picky as I am. I know I could still find some situations where this camera might not perform as well as I'd like.

I could also not find any significant variation in noise structure I could attribute to the areas that were normal pixels VS. the AF pixels so they've done a really good job on that.


Polite applause for Canon. They've certainly made some progress in this model.

Hey everyone! I'm finding that these days I'm less likely to take my dslr most places, and that because of that I'm missing some key moments with friends and family. I'd like a compact that can fit in my jeans pocket and yet still has decent image quality and will serve me well for a couple of years. Again, just casual snapshots here and there. I'd like to keep the price around/under $250. After looking at a few options, the Lumix zs3 is interesting me, but I'm not quite sure yet. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks!

Just wondering if any of you know whether an internal zooming standard zoom is possible (either EF or EF-S, but I guess if one is possible, the other would be too)? It might be nice to have 17-55 EF-S (or 15-85 EF-S, or 24-70 or 24-105) which does not extend. Opinions?

I have searched online if this can be done but I'm getting contradictory info.

I just purchased a Canon 70-200 2.8 IS II and next day as I placed the lens in my camera bag the lens cover was pushed against the edge too hard and popped off then tapped the lens. It made a very faint "smudge" or indent in the coating the size of a pen-dot. I don't believe the glass is scratched...

But can this be corrected or do I just have to live with it? It doesn't show up in pictures at all...

Just bothers me as I just purchased this this week and to my luck this happens.

I have some doubts about portraits, I'm not sure if these are technical questions about lenses or about my skills as a photographer.

I recently purchased the canon 100mmL 2.8 macro lens and I am loving it, also for portraits. It is very sharp, also wide open. The thing is that even at 2.8, I often have problems having everything I want on focus, in the example I attach one eye is not perfectly focused. I have previously used the 50mm 1.4 and 100mm 2.0 and would often avoid using them wide open for that reason.

I guess the questions are: ¿What advantages do you find in lenses such as the canon 85mm 1.2L or even the sigma 1.4 over the canon 100 2.8 for portraits? I can understand it may be easier with those to blur the background or they may have nicer bokeh, but do you use them wide open for portraits?

Thanks!

Hi,

I'm looking to buy a Strobies portrait kit and it looks like you need a flex mount specific to your flash for a good fit.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/621563-REG/

Does anyone know if the flex mount for the 580EX will fit the 600EX-RT? I only have the 600 so I can't compare them side by side. The reviews on B&H say the flex mount for the 580 fits quite tightly, so if the 600 is even a hair bigger, it will make it even tighter (not sure that is a good thing).

Any input would be appreciated.

Ill be posting a bunch of tests between these 2 cameras. Im learning a lot of really interesting things, and so far it has been an absolute slugfest. The Nikon has been surprising me in positive ways, and then the 70D comes back and crushes the D7100 in others. Ill have a full write up available soon.

Check this out. No commentary on my part, decide for yourselves. Quick and dirty test with description of what I did here:

http://www.michaelthemaven.com/?postID=2894&canon-70d-vs-nikon-d7100-iso-noise-chart

show us how good (or bad but i hope not) is that new body 8)

Hi guys,

My Canon 24-105 lens' AF has nearly stopped working. I say 'nearly', as I when I half press the shutter button to focus it either takes a few seconds (like 4 seconds to find focus) or doesn't even attempt to focus. If I half press the shutter button a lot, it will eventually find focus. The IS works fine, and everything else is fine.

I gather that the lens will need to be repaired, but I've never had a lens repaired before. Can anyone recommend somewhere within the UK for it to be repaired? As I'm having trouble finding somewhere on the internet!

Thanks very much, Ben

Every new camera has its limitations and the 70D is no exception. Take a look at some of the limitations of the Canon 70D with Audio recording, Aperture/shutter priority, and other settings. Some of these limitations might surprise you though none are quite as bad as not being able to change the aperture on the Nikon D7100.

Canon 70D Issues for Videographers - Compared with the Canon 5D Mark III

I would like a lens, preferably for FF, that goes wider than my 17-40 L and with less mushy corners. I've rented Sigma 12-24 II and Tokina 16-28 and both of those - the copies I rented, anyway - were much better on the edges and in corners. I've also owned and/or rented on APS-C Sigma 8-16 (quite good) and Tamron 10-24 (bad), but with no overlap to compare with 17-40 on FF. (Faster apertures would be preferable as I tend to use such lenses for interiors rather than landscapes, and in buildings where tripods are usually verboten.)

I'm fairly familiar with the various recommendations for lenses that fit on Canon and Nikon bodies, am aware that for many the ne plus ultra zoom is the Nikon 14-24, and have also seen comments here to the effect that some crop lenses for Canon yield better results on crop bodies than FF lenses on FF bodies (though I don't think these have ever been backed up by examples).

My question is cross-format and cross-brand. What are the best ultrawide lenses, period, regardless of brand or sensor size? Are there any sites where one can find comparisons showing the same scene shot by, say, Nikon 14-24 on FF vs Panasonic 7-14 (14-28 equiv.) on M43 vs Canon 10-22 on APS-C? Anyone here have any personal experience of such a comparison? I've not run across anything along those lines (perhaps it's an unreasonable request), but maybe my searches haven't been thorough enough....

TIA

Hi folks,

I just received my 70-200 2.8 IS II - super excited. Put the lens on the camera (7D) and found that there is 'give' in the mounting.

To compare, my other lens, a 24-105 f4 - does not do this.

Has anyone had this?
Is there a solution?
Should I be worried?

Thanks for any assistance!

My previous post was to ask about what tripod to buy, and I got a lot of advice which I am really grateful for.....thanks but just as I about to go and buy the tripod another idea has now popped into my head......hold off on the tripod and get the 100mm IS marco.... :-\...I like the idea of a good tripod because I like take pic's in low light, sunsets etc...but I also like taking pic's of bugs and things....so my dilema is what to do ...splash out on some new glass...or the tripod....decisions decisions ...I know some people might think I am lucky to be in this position but what would your choice be lens or tripod?????

The recently reignited debate about sensors performance and Nikon's superiority have led me to post this to make the canon users feel better!

If you shoot sports/wildlife you might want to take consecutive shots, FPS is important.
If you shoot raw, buffer may be an issue .

Here is 3 seconds of action

3 seconds of action

d800 : 12 shots
d7100: 14 shots(at best, the buffer is terrible)
d600 : 16 shots
6d : 14 shots (AF might be an issue)
5dIII: 18 shots
7d : 24 shots
1d4 : 30 shots (if you want to buy, it must be second hand)
d4 : 30 shots (high price)
1dx : 36 shots (high price )

The only affordable nikon ( so excluding 5-6K$ cameras like d4) that has a decent enough frame rate and buffer IMO is the d600. Well the d600 lacks the AF system that the d7100 and d800 have..., it's autofocus is far inferior to those....

In the canon segment, I think the 7d, 5dIII and 1d4 are all wonderful alternatives (the 70d should have 16 shot buffer, so you might get 19-21 shots in 3 seconds).

The 5d3 focus system is better than that of the d600, the 1d4 focus system is also better.
I am not sure if the 7d/70d focus system trumps the d600.


All in all you have a lot more choice for sports/wildlife on the canon side!

Lately there might be a few canon users that feel sad because of being confronted with owning inferior sensors.

I thought it could be fun to use the life work of The Digital Picture to compare some crops of canon and nikon lenses (with or without teleconverter) , to cheer those folks up!!!

You can have the best sensor out there, but if your lens is inferior, you may end up with equal or lesser shots!


******--First up canon 70-200 IS II and nikon 70-200 vrII
both @ f2.8 where it matters, im sure from f4 onward they are quite equal.

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=687&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=3&API=0&LensComp=621&CameraComp=614&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=4&APIComp=0

Now the first thing people who want more reach and own either of these lenses is to put the latest 2.0 TC's on (version 3 in both cases).

Wide open
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=687&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=7&API=2&LensComp=621&CameraComp=614&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=7&APIComp=2

f8
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=687&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=7&API=4&LensComp=621&CameraComp=614&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=7&APIComp=4

Hmmm, looks like canon is sharper and less CA

******---- Next up is a tele that people might want to have because of speed and versatility with tc's
300 f2.8

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=739&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=0&API=0&LensComp=650&CameraComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=0

Now with 1.4 converter
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=739&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=1&API=1&LensComp=650&CameraComp=614&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=1&APIComp=0

and 2.0 converter
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=739&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=2&API=1&LensComp=650&CameraComp=614&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=3&APIComp=2

f8
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=739&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=2&API=4&LensComp=650&CameraComp=614&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=3&APIComp=4

Again, the canon sharper and less ca?

*****--- People with more money in their pocket might want a 500 f4
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=745&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=0&API=0&LensComp=653&CameraComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=0

1.4 converter
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=745&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=1&API=0&LensComp=653&CameraComp=614&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=1&APIComp=1

etcetc

******--- People that love little birdies ( and are body builders in nikon's case) 600mm f4
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=748&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=0&API=0&LensComp=654&CameraComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=0

1.4 converter
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=748&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=1&API=1&LensComp=654&CameraComp=614&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=1&APIComp=0

etcetc

Also to take into consideration is the weight.
nikon 600 f4 : 5.1kg
nikon 500 f4 :3.88kg
nikon3002.8: 2.92kg
Canon 600 f4: 3.92kg
canon 500 f4: 3.19kg
canon 3002.8:2.35kg

Nikon users might say Tele lens sharpness is close and the differences aren't big.
Unless TDP cheated on the crops, it looks like quite a reasonable difference , ESPECIALLY with TC's

Nikon users might say it doesn't matter , but thats like canon users saying more DR isn't useful.
Nikon users might argue they are strong , and don't care about the extra weight, but it means you can carry other things....!

I am unaware about AF speed on the different lenses, It is probably close as well....



Feel free to add some more comparisons!, if you look carefully (to the nikon users) you might be able to find a Nikon lens that is actually sharper than the Canon equivalent !

So I got my Canon 70D yesterday, started my initial tests, learning many interesting things about it. Go through my ISO tests, upload images....every single image has this horizontal line on it. Camera is brand spanking new. Hopefully it is just a bad copy. I bought one for my Dad too, so looks like we will be swapping out tomorrow as I can't really do my tests with this camera.

Image is ISO 12800 & is promising, but I certainly hope no one else is seeing this:

http://www.michaelthemaven.com/?postID=2893&canon-70d-issue-dead-sensor-pixels

This could be interesting...

http://www.diyphotography.net/nikon-wants-you-control-anti-aliasing-filter-shot