Hi,
This is my first post on CR. I have been a viewer on this site for some time and have read tons of posts on the forums. I am in my first year of being a pro photographer and recently put my education on hold to pursue something I am extremely passionate about (please don't try to lecture me as making $30,000 a year vs $100,000 doesn't matter to me as long as I love what I do).

Anyways, I have been in school for 4 years for Computer Engineering. I am currently working on a motorized time lapse rail system and I would love to have input from the community as to what to provide. My main goal in this whole process is to make it as cheap as possible, while still making a profit obviously, so that way anyone can buy it. I'm sick of seeing these rigs that offer little options but somehow get people to pay $600+ for them; it's not right and we shouldn't be forced to spend that kind of money on something so basic.

Right now I have the rail system almost done and am working on the programming aspect of everything. What features would you like it to include?

Here is what I have down so far:

• Set exposure time/shutter speed
• Set length of time lapse (30mins, 1hour, etc)

I plan to use this information to determine the time needed between each shot. The rig will stop while the shutter is open and then once it closes it will move a few cm or inches down the rail based on the timing you selected.

I would love to have your input as to what additional options I could provide in the menu of my circuit board that will be the "brains" of the rig.

Thank you for your help and I can't wait to make a great product that I hope you all will enjoy.

I have a 135 f/2, it's a nice sharp copy which needed +9 AFMA on all my bodies to become stellar. But I hardly use it, reaching more often for the 70-200 f/2.8isII.

Just now I realised why...no tripod collar. I shoot well over 50% portrait orientation, often on a monopod. If there was a tripod collar for the 135 f/2 I know I'd use it almost daily.

A quick web search including eBay revealed nothing...does anyone know if this item is exists?

-PW

I now have the 70D and have been putting it through its paces. I have a first look posted up already shot with the 70D and the 5D3. Feel free to ask me any questions and you can download the RAW files and check out the video here: http://learningcameras.com/news/2-all/174-canon-70d-hands-on-video-with-samples

So far the results of the AF have been great and the AF has been working very well for me with video, even using my Tamron 24-70 f2.8 VC which is my favorite video lens. Let me know if you have any questions.

I'm referring to Sony, and their sensors. I'm wondering if in the marketplace, thus far, they are coming out ahead. I'm making no judgments, just an open question to you guys who certainly know more than me.
have their large financial investments earned them a larger piece of the worlds sensor pie? have they improved their share in the DSLR market? has Canon, thus far anyway, held their own without large spending?

Thought I would let anyone who might be interested, know of the current sale. "Loyalty15" gets you the sale price of $2597, and free shipping. I've bought from Abe's before, they seem to be a fine retailer.

I personally won't be buying the camera, but thought some on here might find it interesting (I know some use both Nikon and Canon cameras...etc.).

I'm sure there have been other sales or prices that have been lower than this, and it's not as if I follow it closely...but I got an email sale flier with this notification, so just thought I would pass it along.

So, I am starting to get a bit into event-photography (a few low-key weddings and some conferences) and seeing as I don't think my Olympus Fl36r is safe to put on my 5D3 in terms of voltages (and also wouldn't be a good idea for various other reasons) I need a bit of advice.
I have been using the 600EX-RT on a few paid jobs, but it is a bit out of my price-range for now, and I am not sure that I really need it at all.


For now I am looking at the 430 EX II and the Metz 52 AF-1 seeing as they are priced almost identically in my region. I understand that the Canon might give me more reliability and compatibility whereas the Metz will give me more power and functionality. Still, there are a few things I didn't manage to figure out using google, so I am looking for some who can enlighten me or even someone who has used both.
What are the key differences (apart from USB port and the other things mentioned)
Can the Metz be controlled in-camera like the Canon?
Am I right in assuming that neither model will support all Focus-points for AF-Assist?
Is the touch-screen on the Metz as ennoying as it looks?

Can someone explain what "Dual Pixel AF system " gets you, if your not shooting video? Keep it simple.

I'm looking to get a few primes, and wondered if others could provide some info on why they chose the focal lengths they own.

For example, I'm considering the two following combinations: 24, 50, 135 or 35, 85.

Anyone with preferences of one of these combinations over the other? (I'm less interested in specific lenses (E.g. 24 f/1.4 vs. 24 f/2.8 IS), but the focal lengths themselves.

I'm shotting with a 5d3, and mostly interested in the primes for portraiture and events.

Hey there,

so I went on and bought a new 24-70 f/ 2.8 II. The strange thing in China (where I currently live) is that they don't let you test the lens before you buy it - nowhere. So anyway, I picked one finally after searching the whole day for a good price - and to be quite honest, I am very disappointed.

Here are two crops, 100%, everything is on neutral, no sharpening.
First one is AF-Live mode where I zoomed in on the 24 using 10x magnification. Second shot is using the normal way.
Lightning is not so good, but since on a tripod and with remote control I don't see any problem using slow shutter speeds.
I used AV mode - strange thing is that life-view gives me a different meter reading.

Any advice from 24-70 owners will be highly appreciated.

PS: I am shooting with a 5D3, newest firmware.

Using live-view, 1/4 f/2.8 ISO50 24mm

lifeview1

Using normal focusing, 0.3 f/2.8 ISO50 24mm

lifeview2

Both pictures are shot in jpeg, L mode. I usually don't shoot RAW so thats why I keep testing like this.
I don't see any differences in those two pictures except the exposure, which means that AFMA can't help me - Do I have a "bad copy" or can I fix this somehow?

Hi guys!

I wonder if you use the drop-in pol from Canon, or did you buy the filter holder? In that case what filters are recommended, I know they have to be the "right" thickness. And can you still use cir pol and adjust while mounted?

Thanks.

Ps, it took the 200 f2 one and a half week to push my 70-200 out the door. ;D

So I have my first wedding coming up in a few months where I can't move position. There'll be both me and my wife so at least there'll be some variety but I'm definitely used to moving around for variety. My question for those that have dealt with this is should I try to get as much of a focal range as possible to vary things or just focus more on just catching the best moments? Also, I haven't done a site scout yet but if I am super far back, do I rent something longer than the 70-200 I normally rent or just have wider shots instead? Appreciate the advice.

<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7362/9604398946_4b5fc8d1af_o.jpg" width="2780" height="3597" alt="IMG_7462"></a>

Is it flare from using a single coating filter? Or is it characteristics of the lens itself? I think it's probably the filter. Just wanted a confirmation.

For those of you who own or have owned a 60D, I'd like to know your thoughts on this camera. I've been waiting and watching the sales for a good deal, and though I had my heart set on a 7D, it appears that with the 70D coming out that retailers are clearing their shelves of 60D's. I'm in no hurry to purchase a body, but I do have some money to play with. I'm waiting for refurb 70-200 II's to go on sale and that is my primary item I'm going to purchase this round. I can squeeze in a 60D for ~$600 new at the same time I purchase my zoom even though it would be from a different store.

I mainly shoot the following:
1. Youth sports - camera doesn't have to be that fast because the kids aren't
2. Family events
3. Scenery and wildlife - usually more wildlife, but if there is an interesting rock formation, etc I'll shoot it.
4. College sports - only when I get tickets to the local game.
5. Street - I enjoy street photography, but I don't go out as often as I should.

You can see from my signature below what all I currently have. I will get the zoom this purchase period and want to preserve the lenses I have (can't afford a complete change over right now, but the zoom is my weak point in my current kit).

But, I do have enough to get a 60D at their sale prices right now. Could you please tell me your thoughts on this camera? Again, I don't need to change, but it would be nice to have a camera that fits a little better in my hands and has a higher FPS than my rebel.

Thanks,

Wes

Your choice.

Just hit the lens filter on the door knob, glass is broken but safe my lens.

One of the last days before leaving the nest.

Hi Folks,

I just recently posted my latest cooking video in the series CWI: Cooking While Intoxicated.
(good name for a show originating out of New Orleans.).

Anyway, on the tech side, I shot this with my Canon 5D3, using Marvels Cine Style
I used my then new Rhino Slider I'd just gotten.

I finally learned the importance of having all your lights the same color temp. to make white balancing easier.

I edited in Final Cut Pro X. This will be my last time in that, as that I just recently got the Adobe CS6 Production Premium...so, I'm going to be cutting my teeth next project on Premier and AfterEffects.

I did my color correction/grading with Davinci Resolve Lite (slight nightmare doing roundtripping with FCPX, ugh).

Anyway, here's the video. I think I did much better with color and editing this time, but still, loads of room to grown and learn, please give it a watch and any follow up advice and constructive criticism you might have:

CWI: Cooking While Intoxicated - Cheese Enchiladas, Sangrita and Salsa Verde

Thank you,

Cayenne 8)

Hi all. Just a thought, its probably an old question but Ive decided lifes to short and Ive been saving up for ages and finally have the money for a 1DX. I think what did it was the Osprey shots I did. The MK 4 was excellent to crop and had great reach but I stopped at ISO 1600 due to grain, the weather was bad most of the time. The pro guys did the same so I guess I was in good company. What I wondered is an old question im sure has been posted before, buying from Hong Kong. Prices in the UK are very high. Ive had a look around the net and theres a lot of trading companies in Hong Kong with very good ratings. They pay the import duty but are still cheap. Can anyone recommend a good one. I may be buying an expensive toy but £800 is £800 and if I can save that I will but dont want to get scammed or buy from a iffy company.

Hi there,

first post, be gentle ^^

So up until last month my gear consisted of a 5D3, a 600D, a 24-105, a Tokina 11-16 and a recently bought 70-200 2.8 (non-IS).

Yet when I saw the quality of the 70-200 at 2.8 I immediately sold the Tokina and the 24-105, as well as my 600D - with the idea to switch to a 2.8 zoom lens (e.g. the 24-70II).

Due to lack of finance, I had to shoot the entire month only with the 70-200, it's not a bad walkabout lens, yet I missed some important WA shots at some events that drive me crazy.

Now I got the cash to buy the 24-70, yet there is only one thing stopping me - Lens switching. I must admit I am not good at it, I am not used to it and quite honest - sometimes you have just a few seconds or you miss the shot.

I am sure that a lot of you have similar issues, especially at events (I shoot mainly fashion/catwalk and street). It's important to me that I have tight head-shots, yet also full body shots with the whole scene of the same girl, appearing for 4-5 seconds. A 24-70 could solve that problem if I am near the model - but what if not. For example auto shows, where i have to be able to capture the girl next to the car, yet still be able to get a full headshot within seconds.

Usually, even when I carried more lenses with me, I very rarely used them - just the main zoom hat was on my camera. The 24-105 was good, but the 70-200 is of course much better. I also noticed that every time I buy a new lens i "forget" about the old ones, except I know exactly what I have to shoot (controlled conditions like studio shots).

I always hoped that Canon (well Nikon too) will come up with an faster, easier and more secure way to switch lenses in the field. It's just impossible especially in crowded areas, where everyone is pushing you like a piece of meat.

Well anyway, here is the situation:

Plan A is to buy the 24-70 and try somehow to get used to switch lenses in the field. With the 24-70 and 70-200 I will be "covering" enough - but with lens switching, probably "loosing" shots.

Plan B is to get again a 24-70 which I will put on the 5D3, sell the 70-200 and get a 135 f2 with a used 7D instead. From a financial perspective its more or less the same, but then I'll have a backup body and f2 on a crop. I take most tight shots in the 150-200mm (FF) range anyway, so in theory this could work. Bad side: A little heavier and I will scare people with two bodies ^^

It's really important to me to find a solution to this. My next gig is this weekend, an auto show so I hope you guys can help me sort it out by then.

Thanks a lot,

George

Anybody here have the experience to use gelatin filter on a Canon 17 40 L ? May be some never realize that there is a built-in slot on this lens.

What is the purpose of this design as people mentioned that gelatin filter will probably degrade IQ badly. others stated "As long as it isn't scratched, a proper optical-grade gelatin filter (like Kodak) will be optically superior to any front-mounted glass or plastic filter."

Please share your views, experience etc.

8)
Yes, it has been a long time coming, and is still not here. I still have my old faithful EOS3 and film that come out to air from time to time. I also have my just as faithful but not so old 40D and have been waiting for a suitable upgrade.
Yes, there are worlds of difference between them, but there are some similarities also.

They both have rock solid bodies.
Both have the "essential" picture taking features.
Both have the optional battery grip.
Both can take EF or EF-S lenses.
Both have a decent FPS rate.

In summary, they are both great, solid performers with no bells and whistles. They don't make cups of coffee in the morning but do provide the essential features for photography without having to play too much with menu's etc.

Yes, one is full frame and one APS-C.

Here is my question:

If we were able to put the recently released sensor, processors, weather proofing and articulated screenand focusing capability from the 70D into a solid body, (Metal type), for a reasonable price, what other feature (Please note the singular) could a person want?

A cost suggestion please from those interested. I imagine about $2,000.

The idea is to get a solid camera, with basic but ESSENTIAL still (NOT MOVIE) photograph taking capabilities without breaking the bank.

Only one extra feature per person please, just so we don't clutter it up. After all, how many of us use 100% of the features on the existing cameras frequently?

Cheers,

Markus

I have a Canon 7D and my wife has a 600D. We have on both the EF-S 18-200mm 1:3.5-5.6 IS lenses and find these pretty satisfactory general walk around lens (with the obvious compromise for the large focal length range).

I have been thinking of late of getting our first "L" lens. As enthusiast rather than professional photographers without a endless budget and the price of these lenses, we really don't want to waste money getting the wrong lens.

Our interests in photography are (not in any particular order):
1. Landscape and travel
2. Nature, animal, birds (not macro)
3. People (not portrait)

With this in mind I recently hired a EF 17-40mm f4.0L USM (as a potential landscape lens) but was underwhelmed when I compared it side-by-side with our 18-200mm using equivalent focal lengths and exposures. I was expecting this L lens (Canon's cheapest and most popular, so I read) to stand head and shoulders above the 18-200mm in image quality, color saturation, brightness, etc. But my (admittedly) amateur eye could not see the difference.

So my thinking now is towards the opposite (focal length) end and I am thinking of a telephoto zoom. I like the focal length available on 100-400mm L lens but as the rumors are that this is likely to be updated soon, I don't want to buy old technology for my first L lens. I also hear good reports about the EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM Lens but the maximum focal length is a bit shy of what I would/might want for a serious nature lens.

Any thoughts, experiences and/or advice are welcome and sought.

Usually my lens and body purchases involve 1-Series & L glass but as a very lightweight alternative travel camera I've been intrigued by the tiny SL-1/100D. For my shooting style I'd have the DSLR advantage ahead of a mirrorless.

If I went with a kit lens, how good is the 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 is stm vs the ef-s 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 is stm? I have absolutely no experience with either.

-PW

Hey guys so I have been using the ML 5d mark iii raw hack for filming for a while and everything is working (minus a few bugs) but today during the conversion process of Raw to Cdng. One of the dng files had a blue digital line across it (for only one frame) and upon continous testing the next day a similar line appeared in only one frame. I have also noticed vertical lines (most notably around the umbrella) my understanding is that its from a high iso setting however I wasnt shooting high (1600 maybe). I was recording at 1920 X 1080 with a Komputer Bay 64gb card with the 2.3 version May 18th build with magic lantern.

Now Im not an expert which is why i figured you guys would know:

Is having digital blue lines or vertical lines normal/is there a way to prevent this?
Should I exchange the camera? (its only roughly 15 days old)
Is it the CF card?
What could be causing this and has anyone experienced similar problems?
Again thankyou so much for your time and any help would be greatly appreciated!

and has anyone experienced a lower frames per second when in photo mode? IE: instead of the manufactured 6 fps its lower?

here the first time it happened:



and heres the second time: