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Debranding a 5DIII

I've seen some DSLR's where all the branding looks cleanly shaved off. Usually they seem to be older models. I'm wondering if there are any tutorials on doing this, but in a professional-looking way (like filling the cutout logo, finishing/painting to match, etc).

I'm aware that most of you will probably think that the idea of even attempting this is ridiculous, but if anyone has any experience doing this or has any advice that would be constructive, Id appreciate it.

I attached a pic where I roughly photoshopped what I'm talking about.

y3S9TC9.jpg

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Canon EOS 7D Mark II in 2014 [CR2]

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<p><strong>Lots of talk

</strong>There is lots of talk about the successor to the Canon EOS 7D.  For the last 6 months we have written that the EOS 70D would move up rung in features in the EOS lineup, as such the EOS 7D Mark II will be doing the same thing.</p>
<p>We’re told two possible sensors are in play for the EOS 7D Mark II, the 20.2mp sensor in the 70D and a 24.1mp sensor that has yet to see the light of day. If they want separation with the EOS 7D Mark II and to charge a premium for it, I think moving beyond the sensor that will appear in the next Rebel, an EOS M camera and the EOS 70D is a good idea.</p>
<p><strong>When is it coming?

</strong>It will not be shipping before the end of 2013, there is a possibility of an announcement before the year is out, but I’d say that is unlikely at this time. Timing could also depend on what Nikon is going to be doing with the D400. We’ve been told for ages that the EOS 7D Mark II will be an early 2014 camera.</p>
<p>We’re also told that 2 new “pro” bodies will arrive in 2014, and that doesn’t include the EOS 7D Mark II, which will be a pro specced APS-C camera.</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

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Does IS make bokeh busier/less smooth?

I realize it's unfair to compare the bokeh quality between 135L and 70-200 f4. Not until I got my 135L did I realize how busy the bokeh my tele zoom produces. My question is whether it is due to the use of IS. I've heard someone mention that turning off IS on 70-200 2.8 would make the bokeh smoother so I would wonder about the same on my f4 IS. My preliminary conclusion is that the bokeh quality is the whole point of having a prime and it is irreplaceable by a tele zoom.

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Do smaller RAW formats give lower noise?

tl;dr version: I'm really interested in low noise during low-light/high-ISO shots, and am wondering if shooting in smaller RAW formats could help in that effort.

I'm betting it doesn't work, but what does shooting in smaller RAW sizes (e.g. M-RAW, S-RAW) actually do in terms of mapping sensor sites to the final image, and can it combine sensor site outputs to increase apparent light sensitivity without boosting ISO? And if not, why not?

Example: take a 20 megapixel sensor, intelligently combine the readings of each block of 2x2 red, green, and blue neighboring sensor sites, and spit out a 5 megapixel image. If that's done closer to the sensor, before the interpolation of subsensor sites into RGB pixels, might it result in a better (e.g. lower noise) result? The idea would be to discard the outputs of aberrant sensor sites before they could muddy the interpolation algorithm and "dirty" more final pixels. I wonder if that would be better than taking a full resolution image, applying noise reduction post-processing tools, and spitting out a 5 megapixel image at the end of the workflow.

Any thoughts? Anyone actually know how sensor sites are mapped onto S-RAW and M-RAW image pixels? Thanks!

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Focal Reducer

This topic comes up from time to time and I think it would be a great way to do a number of things.

The utility of using EF lenses AND getting the full frame effect they were meant to give is more than just a passing nod to these optical treasures.

Focal reducers have been used in astronomy for more than 50 years. All the do is they make the resulting light cone steeper, the result is that exposure time is reduced, and giving a wider field of view.

For my 8" f/10 Intes Maksutov, it changes the optic from a 2000mm f/10 to a 1360mm f/6.3. This particular one works both with CCD cameras AND visually. There are some that will change this to a 1100mm f/5.5 or to 550mm f/3.3 but these are for CCD use only.

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5D3 wireless photo transfer options...

Hey all,

I am a 5D3 user who (gasp) prefers SD cards to CF as I don't shoot video or high-burst sports stills. SD cards are super useful for sharing on-camera JPGs for friends and family, and my MacBook Pro has a built-in reader. So, SD is overwhelmingly a convenience for me.

But sometimes I want to share things when I am away from my laptop. So I was wondering what options I have to (a) use wifi to share files to friend's computers who may lack a card reader, or (b) use wifi, bluetooth, etc. to swap photos to my phone so that I can broadcast to Flickr, Facebook, etc.

So what options do I have? Must I switch to capturing large-capacity still work on CF to free up my SD slot for Eye-Fi? (I don't see a CF-based Eye-Fi offering.) Must it be Eye-Fi -- is there other tech I am overlooking?

Background that may guide your advice:

1) Once transferred, all my photos are entirely in the Apple ecosystem -- iPhoto, MacBook, iPhone, iCloud, all that. Facebook and Flickr are the odd need that I am referring to.
2) I never shoot tethered, nor do I need the 6D's apparently pretty cool app LiveView thing.
3) I am not a pro. These are family / fun / sightseeing snaps. No need for DRM / watermarking / etc.
4) I wouldn't want or need to swap everything I am shooting, of course. This would be the 1-3 keepers from a day out.

But if it does turn out to be Eye-Fi, can I use CF as the large storage option and then selectively pipe the few photos I want to share to a very small capacity Eye-Fi card in the SD slot? Or must I capture the photos originally on the Eye-Fi card?

Thanks!

- A

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New LumoPro flash is nearly here!

I only know of one place that is selling this in the USA. Pre-orders are being accepted with shipments starting on July 16th.

http://mpex.com/lumopro-lp180-quad-sync-manual-flash.html

Loved the previous incarnation, the LP160. This LP-180 has some interesting new features; I really like the ability to gel the flash without resorting to velcro. Being able to directly screw it into a light stand and plug it into an external battery pack are really nice touches as well.

Just wanted to bring this flash to the community's attention. This brand has been the "go-to" for Strobists who prefer manual over TTL until it was discontinued.

Disclaimer: I do not work for nor profit from MPEX in any way. I just cannot find this flash on the internet anywhere else for sale. Got an email from MPEX and thought there could be a few of us out there in need of a quality, manual flash.

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Just got my 135L!

I scored a 135L for $859 the other day. I have this trust issue with used things, especially high quality technology, but I pulled the trigger anyways. The lens arrived in immaculate condition, basically brand new. These following shots are LITERALLY the first two shots I took out front of my house. Wow, the countless comments I read on this forum really do live up to the hype. Easily my favorite lens yet.

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50 F1.4 durabilty question

Yesterday, I dropped my 50 F1.4 from about a metre (about 3 feet) onto a hardwood floor (forgot to listen for the click while mounting it) I saw it bounce about twice before coming to rest and the focus system is broken. It works until the camera focuses at infinity and then it can not get out of infinity again.
Now the worst bit is that this is the second 50F1.4 which I have dropped and the previouw one died with the exact same issue.
My question now is, has anybody else experienced this with other lenses or is the 50F1.4 just an incredibly fragile construction and would I be better off with the 50 F1.2 L? (I also have the 50 F1.8 and so wished that had been on the body at the time, but alas, I love the manual focus ring of the 1.4) I also suppose that sending it in for repair would come close to what it would cost new?

Your thoughts and experiences would be greatly appreciated.

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First Canon body for 300mm f2.8 primes?

Greetings everyone.

So I've been a nikon shooter all my life. I shoot amphibians and underwater and am in need of a FF upgrade. Recently one of my firends passed away and his wife gave me his 2 canon 300mm f2.8 primes. One is IS the other is not. Both are imaculate condition wise. I feel the need to keep them given the gesture.

So now I'm wondering what to do body wise. I thought about switching over completely but in general I notice my nikon pics always look popier with wilder colors than my friends who shoot canon. It may just be the in camera settings, can I achieve the same effect with canon? I also notice my canon friends have major problems with auto focus, they actually need focus lights and I don't. So I'm colflicted about a full system switch because I'm nervous it wont produce the look I like.

Also every nikon camera I have ever owned had a spot on AF in very low light so the idea of canons AF not working well is terrifying to me because all my shooting is in the dark.

So I'm thinking about dipping in with 5d mk1 to see if I like canon image and lens performance. If not I could keep if for the two lenses and get a d600 for my others.

Is this a mistake? Would I be that much more impressed with a 6d on those Tele's?

I hear the 6d has good IQ similar to the 5d but also the same poor AF so I'm not sure it would be worth paying 3x the price.

Thoughts?

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The Next EOS M Camera(s) [CR1]

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<strong>The next EOS M cameras


</strong>The <a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/2013/07/crazy-deal-canon-eos-m-w22mm-f2-299-at-bh/" target="_blank">recent sale for the EOS M</a> suggests Canon is dumping large inventory of the camera for a successor. I also think it’s partially to get people to finally buy into the system and that Canon is going to put more muscle behind the product line.</p>
<p>According to a <a href="http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/cameras/mirrorless.html" target="_blank">source at NL</a>, Canon is going to introduce a “basic” EOS M 18mp successor first, and follow it up with a 20mp APS-C dual pixel model afterwards. The latter camera is said to be aimed at the “full frame Canon shooter”, and will have an optional viewfinder. This goes along with what <a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/2013/04/the-future-of-eos-m-cr1/" target="_blank">we’ve previously been told</a>.</p>
<p>Also in development is a focal length reducer for EF lenses, this will be announced with the 20mp EOS M camera.</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

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How to select ISO (tutorial)

I am sure some of you already know this but in case.
Here is the formula I discover on my Canon

Supposed you have ISO speed increment set to 1/3
Base ISO: 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600 ...

So the formula will be:
[x1] [no] [yes] [x2]

where x1, x2 are base ISO.
Example:

[100] [125] [160] [200][/b]
You should avoid the ISO 125
Preferred: 160

[800][1000][1250][1600]
You should avoid the ISO 1000
Preferred: 1250

The author here explained much better than I can:
http://shootintheshot.joshsilfen.com/2010/05/13/canon-hd-dslr-native-iso/

For your specific camera model, you can look here:
https://home.comcast.net/~NikonD70/Charts/RN_ADU.htm

Below is picture of iso 125 vs iso 1250
where if you follow the formula, the iso 125 fall in to the NO and 1250 into the YES
Any comments?

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70-200 f/2.8 L only zooms to 185mm

Recently got a non-IS 70-200 f/2.8 L for shooting volleyball. I noticed that zooming to the long end that the indicator line only got to the left side of the "200" marking. At the time I didn't think anything of it, and I never went to 200mm for the games I shot.

Today I was shooting bicycle racing and while putting the pictures through LR I notice the maximum zoom for everything is only 185mm. Has anyone ever seen anything like this? I am assuming I will have to send it in for repair, but wondering what in the lens would block it like that... It seems to spin fine up until that point.

Ohhh...I hope they replace it with an IS 2...

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EF 200mm f2 , how much do you use it and for what?

Hi guys!

Do you feel the 70-200 f2,8 II gets more use than the 200 (if you own both) or is the 200 SO awesome you find uses for it anyway?

I love the 70-200 II, but always had a thing for the 200 f2, but never owned it. I owned the 300 f2.8 (so I'm used to the weight), but that was too long for me.

And forget, "if you really need the extra stop" I want it if it's awesome as it looks ;D

Thanks!

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National Park Advice - Location and Body/Lenses

First, you may remember this thread, (http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=12048.0) in which I claimed to be going to Glacier National Park. Well, plans have changed since then! I still greatly appreciate the advice!

I will be visiting Yosemite National Park in September for 5 days. I have a campsite in the park, and am extremely excited to visit the area Ansel Adams helped make so famous!

I have another camera and lens dilemma though. My current gear:
Canon 60D – traded the t4i to a friend who wanted a physically smaller camera
70-200 f/2.8 IS II
10-22 USM
18-135
50 f/1.8
430 EXII Flash
Macro extension tube
Manfrotto tripod and head

My first question – I have the wide angle covered, but is it worth looking at buying/renting a 2x extender in case there is any wildlife?

Secondly, I have very much been enjoying my macro extension tube. I tried the 100L macro at a camera shop recently. I wasn't blown away by it, but I could definitely see how the dedicated macro would be a helpful tool to have. Is it worth renting/purchasing the macro for these trips?

Third – I tried a 6D and 24-105 combination at the camera store several days ago, and absolutely loved it. It is definitely something I am thinking about picking up before the trip. I love astrophotography (particularly the Milky Way) so the incredible FF Iso difference would be extremely helpful. The issue I face is that I sometimes find the 60D autofocus to be slightly lacking when tracking moving objects. Would I run into this issue with the 6D as well?

The camera store I go to has a very nice option that if I rent something, if I decide I would like to purchase it after the trip is over, that the rental price will go directly into the purchase price of the lens (but obviously a new one and not the one they rent out).

Finally, I also have the option to visit either Sequoia/Kings Canyon, Death Valley or Zion National park in October. Does anyone have an opinion on any of those parks? If Sequoia/Kings Canyon is the choice, which of those should I look at camping in (assuming I can find a spot)?

Any other advice, including which hikes to take at Yosemite, is welcomed and very much appreciated!

Thanks!

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So I made the jump to FF - now what?

So I finally made the jump and upgraded my T2i to a 6D. I am LOVING it. I know that there are lots of critics out there that have negative things to say about the 6D, but being an amateur / hobbyist, I could not be happier. The one downside (which I obviously knew going into this) was not being able to use my EF-S lenses (Canon 10-22 and Tamron 18-270) so I am in the process of selling those.

I currently have the Canon 24-105 and the Canon 50 f/1.8 lenses for the 6D. I don't have a substantial budget, but I am thinking that I need to get a zoom lens as well. What do people recommend? I am currently between the following:

Canon EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 L IS USM Lens
Canon EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM Lens
Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 L IS USM Lens (I know there are always rumors of this lens being upgraded - but let's put that aside for now).
Canon EF 70-200mm f/4 L USM Lens
Canon EF 70-200mm f/4 L IS USM Lens

Would appreciate thoughts of the group and especially experience from those with the Canon 6D who own any of the above lenses.

Thanks!

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