As some of us are believing the reviews of dpreview, it is disappointing to see, that the 700D is quite "midlevel" with just very few improvements to the 600/650.

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canon-eos-700d-rebel-t5i/

If you compare it to the D5200 of Nikon, it looks "old".

We took some shots with the 700D and the D5200 in our local photo-club. And the D5200 are better. Visibly better. Some of us want these Cameras for their children to start shooting. But some of us are overthinking to buy the 700D, because of the lack of real improvements

So Canon, hurry up! Meet your competitors and try to be better!!!!

This phone/camera is still a rumour, albeit a very strong one - with an official announcement expected on 20 June (London time).

It looks like a small p&s with a phone stuck to its back. Some are calling it chunky, but then many initial reviews of the Galaxy Note were negative when it first came out and look how successful that has been.

The Zoom is expected to have a 16MP camera with optical zoom and its own shutter button, using the volume controls to zoom in and out.

There are some pics here:

http://www.teknobites.com/2013/06/09/samsung-galaxy-s4-zoom-leaked-pics-show-a-camera-phone-hybrid/

Personally, I think it is a nice idea, but will be interesting to find out more, such as battery life, weight, image quality etc.

If they offered different versions of the S4 Zoom, or even made it customisable then I would seriously consider this as a replacement for my current smart phone.

What do you think?

Hey everyone there is a local ad up for sale on a canon 1ds mark II and 20-35 2.8L for 900$ I saw both and they look great for the age and presumed use considering its was owned by a pro more than likely. You guys think it would be a good deal if I offered them 800$? If anything I bet I could resell on ebay for a profit.

Here's some native Wisconsin critters I've come across recently.

There is a little price war going on at ebay between Get It Digital and Big Value. The price has fallen $75 since this morning. Get It Digital appears to only sell USA warranty models, where as Big Value is a crap shoot. Nice price for this nice little camera...


http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=171040563426&item=171040563426&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466

As I asked the forum some weeks ago, I am looking for an small body for high altitude hiking. Some of you told me to buy non Canon products. But I was in doubt ....

So I looked at the 100D.
But when I tried the body with my 12-24 4.0 Tokina in my local shop, the AF was very slow and moving forward and backward, hunting for sharpness. So i took just indoor pics thath did not look very impressive.
The preference of this body for me is image quality.
Does anybody own this Camera and can tell me, how good the IQ is?
Should I stay with Canon or should I switch to an Lumix DMC-GH3 or an Fuji X-E1?


By the way: In my opninion the IQ of the 600D is better then the 700D, as we checked in our local foto-club...
The 700D just seems to be an replacement with very little improvements. Changing the name clears the bad image of the 650D with the grip problems.

Hi everyone,

I'd like to know how many of you buy insurance for your camear gears? If so,

1) From whom (company)?
2) How much you pay?
3) Have you ever filed a claim (was the process painful or smooth)?
4) How much you get back on a filed claim (%)?

I started assisting w/wedding shoots and have found through the hectics and hustles of the wedding day, gears could be easily dropped. So I figured insuring them is a good item and worth the investment.

I live in he U.S (NYC) currently use:
1) 5D Mark II
2) 70-200 f/2.8 II
3) 24-105 f/4
4) 50 f/1.8 II
5) Sigma 35 f/1.4 DG

Thanks for your inputs!!!

Can anyone confirm that a lens' sweet spot is typically 2 stops closed from the lens' maximum aperture? IOW, if my max is f/2.8, f/5.6 is at least a starting point to test for the lens' sweet spot. Comments?

I have just brought a used Canon EOS 5D MK II, I also have a few L lenses and other expensive equipment. I have a wedding coming up very soon and I was wondering if anyone could recommend anyone who I could get insurance with for the usual Professional indemnity, Public Liability and equipment insurance?

Thanks

Where should I buy from?
eBay? Amazon?
What should my budget be?

I've ordered small unit - similar to the jar opener - from eBay from a seller in China

But others, I've seen, range from £50 - £150
I'm confused about some of these - do I need a rail system in place first?

Thanks


Omar

I look at TV and film with a different eye now
I don't see anything that I don't think I would have trouble reproducing with my Canon 60D

What deficiencies does a DSLR have?
What does a £10,000 professional camera give that a DSLR doesn't give?

- recording time - limited to 12 minutes
Why is this? Is this because of the capacity of the SD card?
Is it possible to shoot straight to a hard drive?
(I found this wasn't possible - I had to shoot video and then transfer to my hard drive - this was a massive pain)

- swiping effect
Not sure if this is the right name - I'm sure you guys know what I mean - where the image goes jelly
Surely it can't take a genius to fix this?

- focusing??
I bought my 60D instead of the Nikon 5100 (which was much cheaper) after reading that one should ignore the automatic focusing on video of a camera - the professionals have to do it manually come what may
But... the follow focus mechanisms I've seen is a must have

What else?
What would a Black Magic camera for example give over the 60D or 5D MKIII?

What can't I do with my 60D?

Intrigued to know


Omar

I've seen these on eBay
Fairly cheap
A set of 6 for under £10
Can't remember the exact price
Should I get? Or not needed??

Thanks


Omar

I told a group of people that the Canon performed better opitcally, based upon REAL comparisons. Not to mention the price difference. I was told that I was wrong and the testing and reviews had to be wrong, because the Sigma is better. Why did I get this response?

http://www.mediafire.com/?wapaxgbqn7y0rbh

Thank you ;D

Greetings!

This is of my uncle's excellent blues band on Long Island NY.

The first clip of the female singer is the Rokinon 85mm 1.4 and the second clip/song is the Canon 50mm 1.8 (which has considerably less noise) and these are my only two lenses I need to think about a 24-70, 70-200 or other primes. I believe I used AWB for both.

It is apparent I need to buy a monopod since my handheld was shaky and no IS for either video.

I'm looking for general impressions/feedback. If you have advice on how to improve the quality/sharpness of the video with less noise as well (lens suggestions/settings). Also, any advice on contrast/coloring and what program you use. I used FCPx to do this. I know that AE has a sharpening tool that may have helped and I'm sure it may have a denoiser for that second clip but still new.

Thanks!

http://youtu.be/yAxFcBCIc9E

I have the same problem in Windows and Mac
I view the raw images I've taken
The photo will look bright and well lit
5 seconds later, it will appear dark
What's happening? Why does it do this?

If it was just Windows, I could blame Windows - but it happens on Mac as well
Am I doing something wrong?

Thanks


Omar

Hi,
I shot these images with a T1i and a EF-S 60mm macro. I've piddled with black and white, but these were processed in lightroom along with Nik's silver efex pro. Let me know what you think!

(as an alternative to the expensive modern lenses)

Taken with a $15 Sigma 28mm 2.8 mini wide attached to a 600D with a OM to eos adapter ring with focus confirmation chip.
The venue is not really well- lit. camera set to aperture priority and lens f2.8 (maximum aperture)
Mild sharpening adjustment in Photoshop.

Please post your images taken with all brands of vintage manual lenses on a Canon(modified) body.

Ok, the Sigma 120-300 arrived to me on Wednesday. Work and weather prevented me from getting much time to test it out. On Saturday morning I took time time shooting at home and testing out the lens.
I was testing using my Canon 1Dx. I noticed it was back focusing a fair amount. I setup a focus test using FocusTune (Win) and confirmed it was in fact back focusing. I tested it at the max 300 and f2.8. =5 gave me the best average focus. Visually I might have gone with minus 4. I did some more samples and then needed to get to an event.

I used the new lens at the state softball finals. Below are some sample shots. I only adjusted exposure slightly. The images were shot in JPG on the camera. I'll right a full review and post the reports from FocusTune later this week. I also need to test it on the 5DIII body as well.


At 2.8 the focus was a bit soft, I think -4 might have been a better choice. Initial impression:
(based on a sample set of 1 lens)

1. Its not a lens you can put on the camera and just go shooting. The USB dock may be a required item.
2. Lots of potential, if I can get the focus set right. Wish I didn't have to spend time seeking the right adjustment.
3. The tripod ring is better - more substantial. But, it is not as smooth as my L series lenses when rotating the camera.

f2.8 300mm 1/6400 ISO200



f2.8 300mm 1/5000 ISO200


f3.5 300mm 1/1600 ISO100


f4 120mm 1/1600 ISO200



f4 300mm 1/3200 ISO200

Hey guys just wondering if I should open up and remove the front element myself and blow away the dust or have a Canon service center do it? The lens is out of warranty. Any estimates on how much that would cost? Has anyone removed the dust themselves and was it easy? Seems easy enough but just worried I might damage something.

Appreciate any advice, thanks.

Hi CR folks,

My gear is lacking at the wide end. I used to have the 17-40 but sold it off earlier this year with the thoughts of upgrading to the 16-35.

I've tried a few copies of the 16-35 II but have been left unimpressed with the IQ. The upgrade doesn't feel an upgrade to me so I'm looking at the TSE 17mm.

As I already have the 24-70 II, I'm only missing the range between 18-24 which I believe I can crop or zoom with my feet.

Thoughts on this ... downsides besides losing the AF and 2.8 aperture?

Thanks in advance.

Cheers ... J.R.

I can't remember where I saw it...
Someone made a simple contraption to keep the camera steady
They stuck a screw under the camera which had a string attached to it...
At the end of the string was a large metal ring

They stepped on the metal ring and stretched up
The tension on the string helped keep the camera steady

Anyone know what I'm talking about!!?

Any links to how to make guide would be great
It's easy to make I know - I just want to know what type of screw, string and ring used

Also are there any disadvantages to using this system?
I think it's a pretty good idea - maybe not 100% perfect - but close to being as good as a tripod or monopod??

If not using a tripod or monopod, is there anything else that would help keep the camera steady?
(Apart from holding the camera right!)

Thanks


Omar

the time has come to purchase this bad boy> but i have noticed that the original(version I) is just as good and cheaper or am i just dreaming and version II is much better> any one with experience with both glass care to share there thoughts> pros, cons, etc...

So I was daydreaming about the 200-400 lens today and something occurred to me. Without the built in 1.4 extender "activated" the focal length is 200-400 and with the extender activated the focal length is 280- 560. So does that mean that since there is an overlap from 280-400 that you can get to that range of focal length two ways: one way with the extender activated and the other way without? If this is true is there any difference in the image depending on how you get to that overlapping focal length? For example I know that with regular (not built in) extenders like you 2x, you lose a stop of light when you attach it to your lens. Does activating the built in extender affect your maximum aperture? Although the answers to these questions will never affect me in real life (as my wife would kill me if I spent this much on a lens), I was curious to know.
Thanks