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400mm L f/5.6 vs 100-400mm L IS f/5.6

It is frequently asserted that the 400mm L f/5.6 is very sharp and a much better lens than than the 100-400mm L IS. As someone who has used both, I know that they are of very similar sharpness, and they are not as sharp as sometimes stated. So, here is a summary of quantitative measurements of both from three very reliable sources: Photozone, SLRgear and Canon MTFs. In all cases, the 100-400mm is at least as sharp in the centre, which is what counts if you are using them for bird photography. For the fun of it, I have also compared them with the now out-of-production Sigma Apo Tele Macro f/5.6. Whereas, the two Canon lenses hover in the "very good" category of Photozone, the Sigma reaches the excellent - and it really is much better. If Canon had put in some effort, they could have made a super sharp 400mm f/5.6, preferably with IS. I wonder why they never did?

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Sigma 30mm F/1.4 for Canon Review with the 7D

Not a bad lens at all. Clearly the Sigma ART series is a force to be reckoned with. It is on the expensive side though for a cropped sensor camera lens at $500 but it is great to see another f/1.4 lens for all the 7D and below shooters out there. Now all we need is a new 70D & 7D mark II to go with this.

New Sigma 30mm f/1.4 Hands On Review - Plus a comparison with the Sigma 35mm f/1.4

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EOS 5D Mark III Firmware Coming April 30, 2013

HTML:
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<p><strong>From Canon USA

</strong>Canon has updated the product page for the EOS 5D Mark III and have  stated April 30, 2013 as the release date for the new firmware that will include clean HDMI out and f/8 autofocus.</p>
<p><strong><a href="http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/slr_cameras/eos_5d_mark_iii" target="_blank">EOS 5D Mark III at Canon USA

</a></strong></p>
<p><em>thanks Robert</em></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

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Sigma Announces 18-35 f/1.8 DC HSM Art for APS-C

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<strong>RONKONKOMA, NY, Apr. 18, 2013</strong> — Sigma Corporation of America ([url=http://www.sigmaphoto.com]www.sigmaphoto.com[/url]), a leading researcher, developer, manufacturer and service provider for some of the world’s most impressive lines of lenses, cameras and flashes, today announced the Sigma 18-35mm F1.8 DC HSM Art lens, the market’s first zoom lens to achieve a maximum aperture F1.8 throughout the entire zoom range.</p>
<p>This revolutionary, wide aperture, standard zoom lens is created for DSLR cameras with APS-C size sensors, which translates to a focal range of 27-52.5mm on a 35mm camera. With a minimum focusing distance of 11 inches, and a maximum magnification ratio of 1:4.3, the 18-35mm is ideal for landscapes, portraits, still-life, studio, close-up and casual photography.</p>
<p><!--more--></p>
<p>“Exceptionally fast apertures were previously unavailable in zoom lenses, so photographers turned to several prime lenses in a session to get bright images at various focal lengths. We’re incredibly excited to be the first manufacturer to bring the F1.8 standard zoom to the market and to provide photographers with a new level of creativity and convenience, with the outstanding image quality at the core of the new Sigma Global Vision,” said Mark Amir-Hamzeh, president of Sigma Corporation of America.</p>
<p>Amir-Hamzeh added that because developing a large aperture wide angle zoom lens can prove to be technologically and optically challenging, often resulting in various distortions, aberrations and field curvature, Sigma has tapped into its long history as a lens pioneer to overcome those issues in this new generation lens.</p>
<p>“Our experience with the wide angle designs of our 12-24mm F4.5-5.6 II DG HSM and our 8-16mm F4.5-5.6 DC HSM, and our research and development in our Aizu factory have prepared us for this technological advancement,” he said. “Our wide, glass-molded aspherical lens and the incorporation of Special Low Dispersion (SLD) glass have optimized power distribution of the optical elements and compensated for various aberrations, as well as curvature of field at the widest angle. We’re extremely proud of this achievement.”</p>
<p>The 18-35mm is the latest addition to the company’s company’s Art line of lenses, designed under the new Global Vision. The Global Vision lenses have a sleek new design with the manufacturing year stamped on the barrel, and are categorized by use into one of three groups: Art, Contemporary and Sports. The Art category delivers high-level artistic expression through sophisticated and abundant expressive power.</p>
<p>The new 18-35mm lens incorporates Sigma’s improved AF/MF switch and the use of Thermally Stable Composite (TSC) compound material, which has a high affinity to metal parts, consistently performs well at extreme temperatures, and reduces the size and weight of the lens. It is also compatible with Sigma’s new USB Dock, which will be available in coming months, enabling photographers to update lens firmware and adjust focus parameters from their computers.</p>
<p>Convenient handling is achieved with internal focusing and zooming, which prevents changes to the size of the lens. Additionally, the front part of the lens does not rotate, so special filters like circular polarizers can be used.</p>
<p>The 18-35mm lens’ Super Multi-Layer Coating reduces flare and ghosting and provides sharp and high contrast images, even in backlit conditions. The petal-type hood that is supplied with the lens will provide extra protection from flare and ghosting. Sigma’s Hyper Sonic Motor (HSM) ensures a silent, high-speed AF function and the optimized auto focus algorithm results in smooth focusing and full-time manual focusing capability. Lastly, the nine-blade, rounded diaphragm creates an attractive, round bokeh at large-aperture settings.</p>

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5D3 Firmware

I don't recall seeing this date anywhere before. It now shows in the link to the 5D3 firmware on CanonUSA's website that the firmware will be released on April 30th. It use to show late April like we have been hearing since back in October.

Look at the advertisement/link on the right side of this page:

http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/slr_cameras/eos_5d_mark_iii

Bob

flash bracket suggestions for this setup

Greetings,
old photographer but just putting my toes into macro. I have quickly figured out that I may have to sometimes supplement natural light. I'd like to start with flower pictures. I have a Canon 5DIII, 100mm 288L macro and a first generation 580EX flash with the off camera cord. I'd like to get the flash closer to the front of the lens. I can figure out some method of diffusing the light. The Canon tripod ring looked expnsive for what you get. What flash bracket would you folks recommend that would allow the flash to be mounted a bit closer to the front of the lens?
thanks

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I can't stop thinking about A MONSTER! Part 2

Hi folks!

Some of you may still remember my original post on this topic from about two months ago (http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=12825.0). In short I asked about some opinions whether to get a 500L II or not. In this post I’d like to give you a heads up on what happened in the meantime.

To cut a long story short: I got it.
A local dealer made me “an offer I couldn’t refuse” which was a very good price AND the 1.4x III included.

This is not going to be a review but a little report of my experiences with the lens so far – so if you also like to dream of a big white or if you think about getting one this might be helpful to you. If you’re not interested in that, feel free to skip to the end of this post and see some pictures! Be warned that this text is exclusively about using this monster in the field and it does not contain any pixel-peeping.

So…where do I start? If you read my original post you know I had it divided into some major concerns. I would like to continue with this style and tell you how it turned out for me.

WEIGHT AND SIZE OR HOW TO HANDHOLD A BIG LENS
As I mentioned in my first post I was planning to use it exclusively handheld because of a lack of tripod / head and for portability reasons. When I unboxed the lens … well it was probably a little bigger and heavier than I remembered it from the shop ::). I had some serious concerns if this was not too much for me. I tried it out the first time the next day and felt that my arm would probably come off over time. Especially the stress on my wrist joint was high since I held it on the tripod foot with the hand bent ~90° to the forearm. Additionally I had to twist my forearm for this holding method which resulted in some real pain the day after shooting and a forced pause of several days. Holding the lens on the barrel achieves nothing and has the additional disadvantage that you need to lift your left arm even higher to get the lens leveled (and you probably can’t support your arm on your body anymore). These are pretty much the methods of someone who has no clue/experience on how to hold a big lens since it’s the right way you would hold a lens of “normal” size. I have illustrated it in the pics below so that you can better understand what I mean. After a few painful and exhausting shooting sessions I refined my technique and came up with the following solution: Support the lens foot only with the palm of your hand and use your fingers to hold the barrel (right picture). Doing so solves three major problems:

1. Your wrist is only slightly angled and so the force is transferred to your arm in a more natural way.
2. Your forearm is not twisted and will be able to hold more load or the same load for a longer period of time respectively.
3. You gain full access over the lens controls. Use your thumb for pressing the AF-stop button and to manual focus farther, your middle finger for the playback ring and your ring finger to focus closer.

(Btw. you understand me correctly – I do not only use this lens handheld but also with manual focus if needed.)

[I didn't figure out how to put the picture here - it's at the end of the post!]

For beginners I recommend keeping the lens foot locked – which will limit you pretty much to taking pictures in landscape orientation. Expert mode is to unlock the foot and to only use the notches to hold the lens exactly horizontal/vertical – this will allow you to change between landscape and portrait just as you would on a tripod, but it surely needs some training (this is the way I mostly do it now and it works very well).
With this technique my problems are gone. Last weekend I visited the zoo and shot about from 10am continuously to 4pm only using the beast and the next day I felt … nothing. Everything is perfectly fine with my arm. I can shoot all day long with it now – of course I can’t hold it to eye level all the time and have to pause frequently but I can’t say that I have missed a shot due to exhaustion – at least none that I wouldn’t also have missed using a tripod/monopod. Did you see my arm in the picture? Yes, that’s all I have to work with and I handhold this baby perfectly for hours, so you can easily too – using proper technique of course! If you are a stronger guy than me you probably can also handhold the 600 II or the 400 II but I don’t have any experience with them and other factors such as weight distribution will play a role.

Weight is in my opinion absolutely no concern when carrying the lens in a backpack. I use the Lowepro Flipside 500 AW which conveys the weight to the hips and not the shoulders if you set it up correctly (which is important for you backbone health) using its hip strap. However, size is a concern but the Lens fits in the backpack nicely with camera attached and also leaves some room for other lenses/accessories. With extender and camera attached it doesn’t fit or it would probably fit if you used some force which I don’t.

CONSPICUITY
Well, there’s nothing you can do about that I guess, this lens draws some serious attention. When I go shooting usually always someone starts talking to me or asks me some questions about it – people are usually quite amazed when they see this monster (and who can blame them?). When I was at the zoo I heard about 100 times people talking behind my back. Somehow this is a little like the weight issue – it is a bit shocking at the beginning but you get used to it pretty fast and additionally >99% of the comments are really positive. I decided to answer questions politely and patiently (about how much it zooms for example ;-P) or sometimes to not give a f*** and this works pretty well for me.

IMAGE QUALITY
Lol. Nothing to do here ::). Think about the best possible image quality you can imagine – this is what you will get from this lens. Sharpness and contrast are perfect and bokeh is creamy – what else do you desire? Did you see the MTF-chart? It’s the only one that I can draw out of my mind since it is only a straight line at 1.
I practically can’t tell the difference in shots with the bare lens and shots with 1.4x Extender used, besides of the even thinner DOF (and stronger bokeh). It is surely measurable (your turn pixel-peepers) but not noticeable with the naked eye I would say. With extender it’s still at least as sharp as every other L lens I own (700mm f5,6 is a KILLER LENS with massive reach btw. ;D).
I wonder how it will be with 2x III but I’m sure it won’t disappoint.

AUTOFOCUS
On the web I read that the AF was “instant” or “blazingly fast” or some other superlatives. To be honest I cannot notice it to be faster than the AF of some of my other lenses eg. 70-200 4 L IS or 100L (with focus limiter activated!). However, this is very fast.
There is one problem I noticed: When my 5D3 goes to sleep and I half press the shutter button it takes about 0.5 sec or even longer (which is an eternity in some action situations) for the AF to kick in. This is a problem of the camera not the lens but I recommend to make sure that your camera doesn’t go to sleep when you want to shoot action. BIF come closer a significant distance during that time span.

STABILIZER
The IS is one of the most important features for me, since it vastly increases handholdability. Using Mode 1 you can frame static objects perfectly and your viewfinder keeps still quite nicely. However the new Mode 3 is my favorite since it doesn’t interfere with my framing in action shots and if you are panning it only stabilizes normal to your panning direction. I have no idea if those claimed 4 stops are true but it simply works great.


SUMMARY
If you are mad enough to buy a lens like this you should really know what you are doing. This is not for the casual weekend shooter. You really need to show some effort and dedication to justify the price tag and to haul this thing around the whole day. But if you are serious, I can’t think of anything that can give you more pleasure to use and more spectacular results than a supertele lens. You wouldn’t believe how happy I am with this “monster”. I’ve only used it since about one month and I'm learning a lot every session, but I think that I was already able to make some really cool shots with it – see for yourself in the link below!
IQ is perfect, handling is very good, you don’t need a tripod if you know how to handle it – believe it or not I’m pretty much using this as my walk around lens now. You can read about IQ, IS, AF etc. in all the reviews you can find, but let me assure you once more that this lens is really handholdable for extended periods of time, since I didn’t find a review who stated that clearly.

Ok, now let’s come to the fun part: PICTURES!
Pictures OF the lens: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/e8dsgdawaxbe2p7/5qjI8NJHBh
Pictures WITH the lens: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/zspwh97zbjbv7ff/t_y_bdpwDQ

Some of those where made with the 1.4x III, some without – consult the EXIF data for more info. Usually the pictures are downsized to about 6MP which is more than enough for everything except very large prints. 5D3_8529 is a 100% crop with the bare lens.

I hope you enjoyed my “not review” and if you have questions don’t hesitate to ask!
Greetings!

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Sigma 18-35 F/1.8 just announced?!

When I saw a rumor listing for an F/1.8 zoom lens, I giggled and assumed it was the hoax du jour, late April fool's, etc.

Now I am not so sure:
http://photorumors.com/2013/04/18/sigma-18-35mm-f1-8-dc-hsm-lens-officially-announced/

And now I am sort of overwhelmed:
http://www.sigma-global.com/en/lenses/cas/product/art/a_18_35_18/

So Sigma has the nerve to make a faster than F/2.8 zoom and they make it for APS-C?!.

Someone help me understand the market target for such a lens. After all, I thought the people buying high end glass for their APS-C rigs are 7D users buying long primes for birding. What APS-C users have been lamenting that their 17-55 F/2.8 IS isn't quick enough? I would argue that as cool as such a new lens might be to use, this can't be a massive gap in the APS-C users' bag, right?

So so so confused. Help me make sense of this, thx.

- A

Various shoots with Asian girls, haha.

Let me start by saying that I don't like to be called a photographer nor do I want to be considered one, I just find it disrespectful to people who really work hard and use proper technique as opposed to me just pointing and shooting.
I just wanna know what you guys think.
Also, any tips on getting sharpness?
These were mainly taken with 70-200mm F4 IS and 24-70 F2.8 Mk I.

903239_4464838710759_493494044_o.jpg

259991_3726324328361_1049368644_n.jpg

902258_4434368509023_1563248831_o.jpg

903531_4457090197051_2093094795_o.jpg


And this is an old one.

241496_3517189740127_1778250681_o.jpg

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Just got the canon 16-35 ii and having a hard time seeing the value in this uwa

I never had a uwa and am going to disney for the 4th and was bringing my 24-70 and sigma 35 but when looking at photo's others were taking they seemed wider than longer. I have played with it tonight and am not sure if its going to serve much purpose since i tend to lack reach but it was highly suggested so I figured i would give it a shot. Any thoughts on how this lens is useful for anything other than landscapes?

This is an example of my vacation shots.

][url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/69086871@N03/8658772983/]
Rapunzel character greeting by nvtsallo, on Flickr[/url]

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Sigma 18-35 f/1.8 DC?

May be fake, but, the rumored specs are thus. I hope it's true, because Sigma has really been pushing things forward lately

Designed for APS-C based DSLR cameras
Ultrasonic autofocus (HSM)
9 aperture blades
Type A (Art), which guarantees quality materials, metal bayonet
Filter size: 72mm
Minimum aperture: f/16
Lens construction: 17 elements in 12 groups
The maximum magnification ratio: 0.23x
Weight: 810 grams, length: 121mm
Angle of view: 76.5 - 44.2°
Internal zoom and focusing
Minimal focusing distance: 28cm

http://photorumors.com/2013/04/17/sigma-18-35mm-f1-8-dc-hsm-lens-leaked/

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Canon 60D vs Nikon D7100 - 2 Problems I Noticed with the Nikon D7100

Yesterday I did a quick comparison (video mode/indoors) between a Canon 60D and a Nikon D7100.

I put Sigma 17-50mm F/2.8 O.S. lenses on each camera. I also shot for a few minutes with the same Zeiss 50mm F/2 Makro-Planar ZF Lens on both cameras.

The Nikon D7100 has a lot of advantages - dual card slots, headphone jack etc, but I was primarily interested in seeing how it handled the most frequent scenario I encounter for DSLR filming:
Handheld - Stabilized Lens - Zacuto Z-Finder - Moderately Low Light.

I barely got started before I discovered 2 problems regarding the Nikon D7100.

Problem #1 - Zooming In To Focus on the Nikon D7100:
On the Nikon D7100 when you zoom in to focus - the image on the LCD screen is very blurry. The Nikon D7100 has more incremental steps than Canon’s 3x or 10x, but whether I zoom in (a little less or a little more than) the equivalent of 10x on the Canon 60D the results are the same - an image too blurry to focus accurately on the Nikon D7100. The Canon 60D is much sharper when focusing this way.

Problem #2 - Poor White Balancing - Green Shift on the Nikon D7100
I focused on a Nikon Lens Box with both cameras set identically. First using Auto White Balance and next setting them identically to 3700K. The Canon 60D looked perfect - representative of what I was seeing - whereas the Nikon D7100 had a very prominent green tint. Yikes.

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Questions for 5D3 and 70-300L

Hello,

I am not meaning to start another redundant thread discussing 5D3 and 70-300L, but I wanted to get some real experiences and advices from users that actually own them.

I know the 70-300L is a really versatile lens considering its weight, reach and price compared to the 70-200 2.8II. But how good is it when paired with 5D3 indoor and under shades and on gloomy days? Can the high ISO capability on 5D3 make this lens as good and versatile under such conditions?

I have been debating between 70-300L and 70-200 2.8II, mainly due to weight and the ability to walk around and take it to vacations. If the 70-300L is as good, and still usable when light become dim, I might consider it over the 70-200 2.8II

Any thoughts/real world experience guys? Thanks for all your input!

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Margaret Thatcher's funeral

I don't particularly want to enter into a political debate on this forum, but I thought I would share these two that I took today as the procession passed near my office:


Second hand emotion by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: 5Diii, 24-105 @ 105mm, ISO2000, 1/2000 sec at f4.5

Taken as the coffin was transferred from the hearse to the gun carriage.


:-) by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: Exactly the same.

I did not necessarily warm to Margaret Thatcher nor did I agree with all of her politics, but I do not like the jubilation at her death. Nevertheless, I couldn't help myself and I had to take this photograph...

Comments (photographic rather than political) welcome!

Thanks for looking

Richard

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One lens for vacation

I am going on holiday with the family and ideally would like to take just one lens. I am interested in what others would regard as a popular lens for a beach/pool holiday with young kids??

I have a 5D III and currently own a 50L and 70-200 f2.8 II. I will have enough on my hands with one lens and am therefore considering taking the 50L as love using a wide aperture for capturing my kids. I will not have a chance to take many scenery shots, so will be doing mostly candid/portraits.

I could justify purchasing a new lens before I go and have been considering the 135 f2 for a while now, but my friend recently captured some great shots with his 16-35 II.

If I am purchasing a new lens I need to get it right as don't want it gathering dust when I get back. I mainly use the 50L and nearly always try to have it at 1.2. I have previously considered the 85L but with fast kids I need a quick focus lens, and feel the 135 f2 would suit better.

I live on a small Island and have no access to wide lenses, so don't want to jump into an expensive prime.

Would appreciate any advice as my only concern with the 50L is that I would have to be close to the water to capture the kids. I am not looking to get any group shots.

Cheers,

Scott

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what lenses for what shoot

I'm very new to this and trying to learn all I can. I bought a T3i package for christmas. I plan on going on vacation in June out west and want to take as many picture as I can at national parks. Here are the lenses I have now, I need a cheat sheet if thats the right way to say for what the best lense to use for different pictures.

EF 50mm f/1.8 II - I think used mostly for portaits
EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III - ??
EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II - ??
EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS II - ??

Looking to get a canon speedlite 600ex-rt before my trip.
Thanks

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T3i - 600EX-RT or Canon Speedlite 580EX II

hello,
Very new to all this. I bought a T3i for christmas but now want to get my first Flash. Right now I only want to buy 1 flash and later may add. If I go with 600EX-RT then buy more I know I will need the ST-E3-RT. Or is there something cheaper I could get?

If I go With the 580EX II then get another one what would I need to get both of them to work?

Which way do you think I should go? Amazon the 600EX-RT is cheaper, I know I can get good deal on ebay for 580EX II around $375 is what they been going for.

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