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Nikon D600 announced - $2100, let's see how Canon response!!!

http://www.dpreview.com/previews/nikon-d600

Sensor: 24,3MP CMOS Total: 24.7 million

Image size

FX 36mm x 24mm :
6,016 x 4,016 (L) 4,512 x 3,008 (M) 3,008 x 2,008 (S)

DX 24mm x 16mm
3,936 x 2,624 (L) 2,944 x 1,968 (M) 1,968 x 1,312 (S)

FX-format photographs taken in movie live view :
6,016 x 3,376 (L) 4,512 x 2,528 (M) 3,008 x 1,688 (S)

DX-format photographs in movie live view :
3,936 x 2,224 (L) 2,944 x 1,664 (M) 1,968 x 1,112 (S)

ISO 100 ~ 6,400. ( 50 - 25600)

Finder: 100% coverage.

AF: 39 points.

Shutter: 1/4,000 ~ 30 sec, bulb. Carbon fiber and Kevlar, tested to 150,000 cycles.

2,016-Segment RGB Meter

Flash Sync: 1/200. Built-in Flash

Frame Rate: 5,5 FPS.

Rear LCD: Exquisite 3.2," 921,000 pixels.

Video

The Nikon D600 can capture Full HD (1080p; 1,920 x 1,080 pixel) video at either 24, 25 or 30 frames per. For 720p (1,280 x 720 pixel) video, a rate of 60 frames per second is possible. Video can either be shot using data from pixels across the entire width of the image sensor in FX mode, or with a 1.5x (DX-format) focal length crop, taking data from the center of the imager, without affecting the video resolution.

Videos are recorded using H.264 / MPEG-4 AVC format compression, maximum clip length is 29 minutes, 59. Even more unusually, it's possible to have the live feed piped to the D600's HDMI port as an uncompressed full HD signal, allowing it to be recorded using an external device and/or routed to an external monitor. If desired, this signal can be mirrored on the camera's own LCD display at the same time; the off-camera feed doesn't have any overlays added, so as not to impact external recording devices.

And the time-lapse photography function can be used to automatically photograph relatively slow moving action

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Sandisk QC lacking?

I have always relied on Sandisk SD cards. Other brands have let me down in not living up to the rated speeds. I have about a dozen Sandisk SD and CF cards.

However, my last two Sandisk SD cards (one an Extreme 32GB and the other an Extreme Pro 32GB) have both been DOA. Neither the camera nor the computer could format the cards. In the Extreme card case, the camera could see it, but reported an error. In the Extreme Pro case, the camera wouldn't even turn on. Had to pull the battery to get the camera back, indicating that the card itself had a short in it.

Had I just been lucky before, or is Sandisk quality slipping?

Regardless, any tips for a different reliable brand?

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Which to get next: 35 f/1.4L or 16-35 f/2.8L...?

Hi everyone again. Now that I've received responses on your feed back on picking the 16-35 over the 17-40 from my previous post, I am in need of your input again. Here's my situation.

I shoot w/the 5D Mark II (griped) w/the 430EX
Other lenses I have now are: 1) 70-200 f/2.8 II 2) 24-105 f/4 3) 50 f/1.8 II

I assist with weddings/events, and shoot portraits. I also shoot often on trips and vacations.

Which lens should I get next to better suit my needs:
1) 35 f/1.4 or
2) 16-25 f/2.8
or
3) some other lens you would recommend?

I can only get one for now.

Thanks again for your help!

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Revolutionary digital camera?

Here's one for you photo geeks. How about a simplified digital body that would accept native FD lenses. Sort of
a digital AE1 - no autofocus, no video, no frills, just a base camera that is completely controlled by the user.
Should be priced at or below the price of the cheapest Rebel (T3 is currently about $500). Would appeal to
"basics" crowd, owners of legacy lenses, excellent intro to photography tool for education users, and possibly
others. Oh yea, need not weigh a whole lot more than a mirrorless with eos lens.

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Photo vendors in five years?

As I look out and try to figure out what's going on in the photo market, I'd predict several things coming down
the road. Canon has everything to lose, as the current market leader covering nearly all the bases, any shift
in market share has to effect them the most. They do have a significant advantage however, vertical integration.
In that sense I would predict the leading brands in five years will be Canon, Fuji, Panasonic (probably buying
sickly Olympus) Samsung. Nikon and Leica are too dependent on chip vendors, Sony couldn't market most of
their stuff no matter how good. Pentax/Ricoh has a chance, if they can get their combined act togather.
The point and shoot market will be decreasing in market share due to better smart phone camera integration,
and that will hurt Canon and Nikon most at the benefit of Apple and Samsung. Video capabilities will improve
to the point that dedicated video cameras are redundant - and that will hurt Canon, Panasonic and Sony.
Better ISO performance may decrease the need for fast, and expensive, lenses and optical manufacturing techniques will improve so that high quality lenses can be made in volume - hurting Leica, Nikon and Canon.
Prices will continue to escalate and digital imaging software will continue to improve around the margins to
provide excellent images but without the "feel" of darkroom processing. All told, an exciting time to be interested in photography.

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Test Your Knowledge with Strobes/Thinking outside the Soft Box

Here's a photo I shot with two Elinchrom soft boxes and no external / remote flash in cold or hot shoe.

Note the strange phenomenon at the lower part of the photo where you can see a slight gradient from dark to normal as you look upward in the portrait . It took me a bit to figure out why this was happening but ultimately found the answer. I put my Sekonic L-358 meter in "cordless flash" mode (meaning it captured the proper lighting of the two soft boxes when they fired) suggested 1/200 at F 6.3 so there was plenty of light with the recommended settings for manual and I was below the hi-speed sync setting of 1/250. The soft boxes were at 45 degree angles and about 18 inches away from the subject and upward angled position of above 6.5 feet high and 30 degree angled downward. The subject was seated in an armless chair that swiveled left to right. I had a 42" reflector on a swivel arm in front of the subject at waist height for any facial shadow fill ins. I used a Canon 5D Mark III and a 100mm USM L IS Macro lens for this portrait in ISO 50. So what could it be?

Attachments

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24mm F/1.4L II or 24mm-70mm F/2.8 II

This is a tough choice.
I love primes and got a 24mm F/1.4L II delivered yesterday.
I tried a few test shots @ F/2.8 and it is super sharp on my 5D MK3. Probably the best L lens I've tried to date.

Then I read the LenRentals.com article and Roger claims that @ F/2.8 the new zoom is sharper, particularly in the corners on FF.

There's not a lot in it in the center, but the zoom has more resolution at the edges - 940/750 vs 954/ 831.

The zoom is still a F/2.8 and I wanted the prime for low light too BUT having a lens that sharp and responsive across the whole range has got me wondering if I should return the prime and pick up the zoom.

What would you do?

Cheers

ET

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My next Canon in my dreams

They could make a mini 1Dx, thow FF in it and charge $4/$4,500 making it basically a beefed up 5dm3 but designed for sports with 8/10fps. Also allow the Grip attachment to use a 1d series battery for higher voltage output speeding up the focus system like a 1D, they could charge $600 for the grip then. They could always keep the 1dx tracking and face detection out like on the 5dm3. A 6D would however need to be under a 5dm3 so maybe this camera i mention should be a 3D or at least from a number level being 1 the highest level Canon camera and 5D second highest, maybe put something between them. I know this has prob been discussed and i did think the next 7d should be APS-H but this is something else entirely. The market needs this kind of camera. Canon should be in the process of fulfilling something like this i would think. Who cares if it takes some of the share from the 1dx, you want the premium camera you still get the 1dx. This type of camera would be the first to have the power of a 1d series camera by making the grip the extra source for its kick! Then for the wedding photog's like myself we can get by without that grip for weddings but when we need to shoot sports like i do then the grip makes sense to have. So at like $5100 people will struggle with the features and price over the 1dx. From a marketing standpoint people always want the middle package like wedding packages. They can't afford top but they don't want to go cheap either so this like how apple also prices and puts features in their products to force the difficulty it is pure genius to do so.
Sorry if i seem scatter brained its almost 4am lol.

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Europe trip, 1-2 months

Well the title says it all. I'll do a trip in Europe (all of its countries including Russia) for a period of 1 to 2 months and want to know where you guys have been and where would you recommend me to go, places that worth to go and take PICTURES.
I'll take a (almost)universal train pass so I can go everywhere.
Beautiful landscapes, train stations, cities, zoo's, library, castles,nice architecture,bridges,historicals sites, waterfalls,mountains,nice cruises.. as you might understand, everything that makes a nice photo is welcome in suggestions!
Even if you've never been into the old continent I want your ideas!
I'll bring all my important photo stuff(tripod,remote,8-16sigma,24-70 tamron,50 1.4 sigma,120-300 sigma.canon 60D) so no type of pictures is excluded.
Thaaank you.

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Sony A99 24MP Full Frame Press Release

http://www.eoshd.com/content/8960/sony-a99-press-release
I must admit, Sony is really tearing it up this year. In terms of specs it looks better than the 5DIII in just about every way. I'm a video guy so the 1080p 60fps and clean HDMI out are very appealing. These are such small things that Canon should (but foolishly didn't) add to the 5D3. Also it has "full time continuous AF" in movie mode, not sure how well it will work, but very cool.

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Bang for buck 5d to 5d mark III or 70-200 2.8 nonIS to 70-200 2.8 IS II

I'm debating my upgrade path. I usually go for better quality glass over body upgrades, but I'm not sure on this one.

Do I upgrade my Canon 70-200 non-is 2.8 to the new IS version II of the lens or would it make more sense to keep my older 70-200 2.8 and upgrade my body from the original 5D classic to the new 5D mark III? I'm drooling over the new auto focus system on the 5d mark III but since I shoot sports with a crop camera I'm not sure if I need it. Maybe at 7D and the 70-200 2.8 IS II would be warranted?

I shoot motocross (sports) with my 50D as it has the 1.6 crop factor (free zoom) and a better 9 cross point autofocus vs 1 cross point on the 5d classic. I shoot weddings and general photography/events with the 5d and I consider the 5d my main camera with the 50d being backup unless I shoot the aforementioned motocross or maybe birds.

I love the shallower depth of field that I can achieve when using the full frame 5d vs the crop. It's like getting more expensive lenses with lower maximum aperture when comparing to the crop body. I will always have a full frame. I will probably always have a crop too though for the extra reach.

I also need something for video as well. I'm currently using the T1i for video, but it is up for sale at the time to fund this upgrade. I do some how to videos and make some short films. I do have a canon 1080P video camera for this as well (not as nice as the DSLR's though).

So whats the better upgrade, the 5D to 5D mark III or the 70-200 2.8 non-IS to the 70-200 2.8 IS version II or some other path?

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Remote shooting and Live View tricks

Canon 5d mkII. Anyone tried shooting remotely? I recently did and at first thought, all I need is a remote switch cable release and monitor. Well that worked until I actually tried it...as soon as you turn on live view you find out you can't focus using the shutter release! Ugh.

So the next best thing I did was scrap my first idea. Instead, I used a netbook with the EOS utility installed and tried out the remote control software canon provides. Works great, I had the camera where I could not reach it and using live view I could focus using the keyboard and view the results. Pretty cool. However, I still miss having a remote switch that allows me to walk around and get close to the subject for example.

I also tried doing a self portrait using the same method and found it really hard to focus on myself and trigger the shutter with my computer on une side of the room and me on the other. All my photos have one arm missing!

So, here's what I did to get "remote switch working in live view". Its a hack, but it works pretty well. I took an old USB keyboard, opened it up and soldered a stereo jack to where the spacebar goes and to the alt-F key. I them plugged in my remote switch and ran a windows macro program to move the mouse and control the canon software. I can now use the remote switch just as if it were plugged on the camera (its on the computer usb port instad) with shutter relase and focus and I have the added bonus of seeing my image on the computer using live view! Pretty neat!

Has anyone else tried this?

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The Raw Data: The EF 24-70 f/2.8L II is the Sharpest Zoom Canon Has Ever Made

HTML:
<div name="googleone_share_1" style="position:relative;z-index:5;float: right; /*margin: 70px 0 0 0;*/ top:70px; right:120px; width:0;"><g:plusone size="tall" count="1" href="http://www.canonrumors.com/2012/09/the-raw-data-the-ef-24-70-f2-8l-ii-is-the-sharpest-zoom-canon-has-ever-made/"></g:plusone></div><div class="tweetmeme_button" style="float: right; margin:0 0 70px 70px;"><a class="tm_button" rel="&style=normal&b=2" href="http://www.canonrumors.com/2012/09/the-raw-data-the-ef-24-70-f2-8l-ii-is-the-sharpest-zoom-canon-has-ever-made/"></a></div>
<p><strong>From LensRentals.com

</strong>Roger over at LensRentals.com ran the new EF 24-70 f/2.8L II through an Imatest session and found it to be a stellar performer as far as resolution goes.<strong> </strong></p>
<p><strong>From Roger

</strong><em>“This is short, sweet, and simple. The resolution absolutely, positively kicks butt and takes names. It is way better than the lens it replaces. It’s better at 70mm than the best Canon zoom I know of, the 70-200 f/2.8 IS II. It’s even better at 24mm than the sharpest 24mm prime we have, the Canon 24 TS-E. In the center, in the corners, it doesn’t care. We only had 5 copies to test, but they were all very similar with little copy-to-copy variation.</em></p>
<p><em>Resolution is not everything, of course. But it’s certainly an important thing. Unless the real lens reviewers find some dramatic problems with this lens, I’d have to lean towards worth-the-money on this one. I can’t believe I’m saying that a $2,300 standard zoom is worth the money. But then again, I can’t believe I’m seeing a zoom lens out resolve a $2,000 world-class prime, either.”</em></p>
<div id="wp-table-reloaded-id-16-no-1_length">The Imatest results are below. The higher the number, the better.</div>
<div></div>
<div></div>
<table id="wp-table-reloaded-id-16-no-1">
<thead>
<tr>
<th rowspan="1" colspan="1"><strong>Lens</strong></th>
<th rowspan="1" colspan="1"><strong>24mm Ctr</strong></th>
<th rowspan="1" colspan="1"><strong>24mm Avg</strong></th>
<th rowspan="1" colspan="1"><strong>70mm Ctr</strong></th>
<th rowspan="1" colspan="1"><strong>70mm Avg</strong></th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><strong>Canon 24-70 f/2.8 II</strong></td>
<td>954</td>
<td>831</td>
<td>950</td>
<td>809</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><strong>Canon 24-70 f/2.8</strong></td>
<td>730</td>
<td>605</td>
<td>705</td>
<td>570</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><strong>Tamron 24-70 f/2.8 VC</strong></td>
<td>815</td>
<td>765</td>
<td>735</td>
<td>655</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><strong>Canon 70-200 f/2.8 IS II</strong></td>
<td>xx</td>
<td>xx</td>
<td>885</td>
<td>765</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><strong>Canon24 f/3.5 TS-E</strong></td>
<td>915</td>
<td>775</td>
<td>xx</td>
<td>xx</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>As you can see, the new EF 24-70 f/2.8L II is an absolute resolution monster. It really looks like it’s the best zoom Canon has ever made optically. There is a small note that distortion at 24mm is slightly worse than version 1, but that’s what software is for. :)</p>
<p><strong><a href="http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2012/09/canon-24-70-f2-8-ii-resolution-tests" target="_blank">Read the full review here</a></strong></p>
<p><strong><strong>Order the Canon EF 24-70 f/2.8L II at: <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/843008-USA/Canon_5175B002_EF_24_70mm_f_2_8L_II.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">B&H Photo</a> | <a href="http://www.adorama.com/CA2470.html?kbid=64393" target="_blank">Adorama</a> | <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0076BNK30/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0076BNK30&linkCode=as2&tag=canorumo-20" target="_blank">Amazon</a></strong></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>
<p><strong> </strong></p>

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why no exposure mode visible in viewfinder eos 5 III ?

After working with EOS 1 Ds mark I up to markIII for 10 years I've now switched to the EOS 5 mark III.A few differences in handling I find very annoying.
-you can't see which exposure mode you're using in the viewfinder!
-in A.P,S mode,when you lock exposure,you can't see how much you're under/over exposing in your new composition.
-and when switching from A to M mode for example, you'e aperture switches to the last one you used in M instead of the last one you used in A mode.This means that when switching between exposure modes in a given situation you have to adjust more then you would like.
-I also don't really like that the C1,C2,C3 function doesn't remember the changes you make during shooting (e.g..changing ISO) when the camera falls asleep.

My best handling camera ever was the EOS1D markII , best camera the 5 mark III (of course)

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