I received some information that a large Japanese camera manufacturer is working on a digital film (that's right, film) that can be used in traditional analogue camera equipment.

The film uses a new type of binary image sensor technology that allows images to be captured and stored on the film without the need for electrical power to retain the data. Until now, imaging sensor technology has been limited to the use of volatile memory, necessitating the use of traditional CMOS or CCD imaging sensors and storage of the captured data on internal flash drives.

Binary image sensor technology is reminiscent of traditional photographic film. Each pixel in the sensor has a binary response, giving only a one-bit quantized measurement of the local light intensity. The response function of the image sensor is non-linear and similar to a logarithmic function, which makes the sensor suitable for high dynamic range imaging.

After exposure, the film is advanced in the same way as traditional analogue film.

When the digital film has been fully exposed, the roll is removed from the camera and connected to a computer or smartphone using a USB interface. Each stored image is read out successively and sent to the computer. The film can then be 'formatted' for re-use.

One roll can hold up to 24 images, but with advances in digital film technology it is expected that higher storage capacities will become available when the film can be made thinner and wrapped more tightly.

Hi Everyone,

Please checkout this underwater video I shot called "Socorro" with my 5D MKII

http://youtu.be/4MTa6r1nFr8

It's in a contest so please "like" it on YouTube if you have a minute free and hope you enjoy it!

New Canon L-lens: EF 16-600mm f2,8 L USM :
Some specs:
Built on Canon DO-technology from 70-300mm DO and 400mm DO, with 7 fluoride elements
Length: 485mm
Weight: 3780 gram

To those who have discussed low level formatting of CF cards, does it matter if you format the card as Fat32 or NTFS. I found out the hard way that Canon uses Fat 32 format, not the NTFS. When I formatted the card in NTFS format, the card could not be read by my 5D M3, while in Fat32 format it could be read. Of course after I formatted the card in the camera (regardless of initial format) everything was fine.

BTW - for the Mac guys/gals out there. How does Mac deal with Fat32. I thought they did not support it - for external drives to be readable by a Mac, they needed to be NTFS. Is that correct?

Thanks

Hello all,

I am looking for an upgrade to fullframe and will probably buy an 5d mkIII in the next couple of month.

Also I am considering in a new tele lens which will mostly be used for portrait, sone zoo animals and "kids action" photography. In total I am doing this only as hobby for myself and my family and not as a job.

Now my big point is which lens should I choose?
canon 70-200 2.8 IS II USM
or the new tamron 70-200 2.8

Tamron was brought in to my mind by a good friend of myself - but up to now I couldn´t make any decision.

Any suggestion any support on this - at least for me difficult decision? I would like to get a comparison of the iq of both lenses but couldn´t find any reliable review about the tamron. I know the canon is a superb lens with an high price tag also


Thanks for any help.

I always thought this was self-explanatory, but on the other hand there might be a reason for the Canon hss button and that the flash doesn't auto-enable hss when >x-sync:

If I shoot below the x-sync limit (1/250s on my 60d) and have hss on, does the flash do the usual short high-power x-sync flash or does it do a continuous hss pulse like when shooting with >x-sync?

Feel free to write "rtfm" as long as you give the answer at the same time :->

What is your experience using an external live view monitor for Canon 60D? or, another Canon body

I just want a bigger view. I'm planning on some macro photography later in the Spring, and would prefer an external monitor for live view.

Can I use a laptop that has an hdmi input and see the image on the screen?

Anyway to do this with an ipad 3?

any specific monitor-only brands to review?

Don't need remote control or capture

Thx

im thinking about going FF and buying a 6D for landscape and portrait work.

there are two kits i can buy that cost nearly the same.

one with the Tamron AF 24-70mm f/2.8 SP Di USD VC (2549 euro).
the other with the Canon EF 24-105mm f4 IS USM (2489 euro).

im not sure what to buy. ???

i have a 100mm f2.0 i will use for portraits, but i need something wide for landscapes.
have no money right now for a 14mm or 16-35mm.

i also have the 70-200mm f4 IS i use for landscapes.

so buying the 6D as kit with one of these lenses seems like a good idea.

what i want from the lens is sharpness and good contrast (AF speed is not that important).

main use for the lens would be landscape and architectural stuff.
well "architectural" means churches, bridges and stuff i shot when i travel.
not real estate photography.

what´s your experience or advice?

I understand that the weather sealing is much better on the 1dx vs 5d mark iii. Practically what does this mean? You you stand in pouring rain with the 1dx and a 70-200 2.8 II or just a light drizzle? ok to set it in the sand on the beach? Just wondering if in reality you would do any of the things it may allow you to do? Thanks

Hi guys! I like taking tight portraits with a very nice bokeh, and therefore I'm planning to buy a Zeiss 100 f2 Makro lens due to its remarkable optical quality on full frame DSLRs. We've heard that Zeiss is going to update lots of its lenses for high-megapixel cameras, and we've already seen a new Zeiss 55 f1.4. I'm wondering if any of you guys heard about any rumors of the updated version of a Zeiss 100 f2 Makro lens? How much improvements in optical quality (and price tag too, I guess) do you expect a new line of Zeiss lenses? Any suggestions will be much appreciated! Thank you

I have ordered a 70-300mm L from Amazon before the rebates ended. Now I see Canon Store has the same lens refurbished for around $300 cheaper than what I spent. Excluding tax and rewards, the difference come to around $200. I never had experience with refurb products. I would like to know if refurb lenses are atleast nearly as good as the new ones? ALso is the $200 big enough to give away the 1 year warranty (may be 2 yrs with certain credit card. I believe mine also provides the 2yr warranty).
Should I order the refurb lens and cancel my order for the new one?

Would 1DC sensor overheating be a problem with 1 hour of continuous 4K video? I participate in marine archealogy projects and plan to video scan entire wrecks with the limitation of 2x128 GB media, i.e. 1 hour per dive. The 1DC would be housed in a tight aluminium underwater housing with hardly any air circulation. But, the housing is cooled externally by 4-20 degrees Celsius water.

Currently I do similar work with HD video and this is a very useful technique to explore unknown historical wrecks before further research. I have a 200W/16000 lumen HMI lamp, so exposure and motion blur will not be a problem.

I am asking this question due to the 1DC overclocking of the DIGIC processors and additional heat sink(s).

Can anyone please advise me if it is possible to change the Quick Control Screen colors. My default is black screen with dark and some lighter blue, and I thought that I have seen some with lighter colors. Not a big deal but just wanted to know. Thanks in advance.

Well, congratulations. You’ve convinced me. After reading these forums all of the erudite and eloquent comments have convinced me to totally toss my vast collection of Canon cameras and lenses and seek a better alternative.
With that in mind I have hired the entire graduating class of the closest Art Institute of America location to follow me around and paint everything I used to take photos of on primitive digital camera equipment. It is a simple point and shoot interface. I point at something and one of the kids sits down and starts to draw it. The image quality is superb. No matter how much you magnify the images, you can’t get down to the pixel level, unless you are using the pointillist module. Well, I suppose you can with an atomic force microscope, but it will be a few years before I can afford accessories like that. Depth of field and dynamic range are infinitely flexible.
Processing time is slower than with my 7d. Some images can take months to develop. But the filters are amazing. The impressionist module does wonderful things with landscapes and abstract module makes portraits fun and surprising. The tagger module allows for incredible enlargements, limited only by the size of available wall space.
Granted, my system is a little expensive and clearly not for everyone. It came as surprise that artists these days expect to eat every day. Storage is also a challenge. However, I believe that anyone who is serious about producing great images will quickly realize that my setup is the only conceivable way to get the kind of images we all know we want. Anything less is ludicrous.

Apologies if this has been posted already. Thoughts? http://www.diginfo.tv/v/13-0021-r-en.php

Hey y'all,

The title says most of it. My 5Dii went from downloading just fine, everyday, no problem, to suddenly not downloading.

When I plug it into the computer, it connects and gives me the option to download the files via Bridge. After I click "Get Photos", the red indicator light on the back of the cam lights up all dazzly, like it's supposed to, but then it goes into "blinky mode" and Bridge continues to tell me, "Connecting to device... Please wait.".

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated,
-Tabor

Additional info if needed,
-CF: Kingston 32 Ultimate 266X
-PS: CS5

No other changes have occurred apart from recently purchasing a new CF which I plugged in for one session, but haven't used since. Would that have anything to do with it, should I re-format my older one again after I get these pics off?

This subject has been beaten into the ground, but I was surprised at how much noise I was seeing in even ISO 400 images in broad daylight with a 7D compared to my 5D3. See comparison below.

The short story is I have two 5D2 refurb's and two 7D refurb's that I am evaluating as a backup body to my 5D3.

I believe I am going to stick with the 5D2. Using Reikan's FoCal, both 5D2's OUTER AF points outperformed all 19 points from both 7D bodies in both Quality of Focus (QoF) and AF accuracy. I will post a separate comparison of them in a new thread tomorrow.

Both are 100% crops of shots of the northern sky at ISO 400, RAW OOC, zero NR. First is the 5D3; second is the better of two 7D copies I am evaluating. You will need to download/save them to see the noise more clearly.

My sources tell me that on Monday we will see lots of incredible announcements - Canon buying Hassy or will it be Leice. Perhaps a MF Canon to fit Leica glass. Nikon licensing their 14-24 to Canon.

What are you expecting on Monday, the first of April?

My sources tell me that on Monday we will see lots of incredible announcements - Canon buying Hassy or will it be Leice. Perhaps a MF Canon. Nikon D800 with a Canon name on it.

What are you expecting on Monday, the first of April?

I'm ripping off ahsanford's question format... consider it praise rather than theft.

I thought I would start with a bit of history. I started off with a Canon XS and a 18-55 and I got a 75-300mm along with it. Without question, I was not happy with the 75-300, but I did learn a few things about shutter speed with shooting at a distance with a long zoom, not to mention having a relative understanding of bokeh at longer focal lengths.

I eventually upgraded to the 55-250, and I know I'm romanticizing how great it was, but it was a good little lens, especially at the price I paid for it.

I had a 70-200mm f/4L usm for a while and I didn't hate it... but I didn't think it was really that much better than the 55-250 (which I had sold quite a while before). I REALLY didn't like it in low light, but I guess that is expected. Outdoors it was good, but still never blown away like I had been with my primes (50mm f/1.8 and eventually f/1.4, 100mm f/2.8L IS macro, etc.)

So I waited a while and I got a 70-200mm f/2.8L USM... and I liked it more, but according to everyone here, it was a touch backfocused and my 60D as many of us know doesn't have AFMA... so I sold it because again... I wasn't blown away. But I did like that a whole heck of a lot more than the 70-200mm f/4L usm.

I would like a 135mm f/2L but it isn't an emergency to get one, but it contributes to my concern that if I get the 70-200mm f/2.8L IS mkii, then I will have too much money in the same focal range (a 100mm f/2.8L IS, a 135mm f/2L, and then the aforementioned 70-200mm).

So I was thinking... is there a good zoom option that has more reach, with reasonable low light capabilites (5.6+ need not apply)...

Auto focus is a must, and image quality is paramount. I find that if my lens doesn't have the capability of producing breathtaking photos, I just ignore it and work with my other lenses that are significantly more impressive.

Brands:

I prefer canon. I think they tend to have better resale value and so if I don't like a lens, I can always sell it again and either not lose anything, or at least not lose much. I know Sigma makes a very good product depending on the specific lens, so I'm not averse to them... and they also tend to be a good deal cheaper for comparable specs... though maybe the image quality isn't quite as good... (70-200mm f/2.8 OS, I'm pointing the finger at you).

I'm going to be upgrading to a 5D mkiii in a few months and I know I'm going to miss the reach of the crop sensor (though I realize the bokeh is still the same, if not better, and when I crop into the image, the depth of colors will be greater and it will be sharper... so I'm complaining only about perception of a loss of length).

As you guys always ask when someone pipes up about lens selection, here are my shooting needs...

• I am an enthusiast, but I'd like to think I've exceeded the hobbiest moniker. I never been professional, though I think I get a little lucky here and there and come out with pro quality images. And I would like to do a little sports photography on the side, though I realize that is a dependent position and if the kids plays 4 minutes in a game and doesn't do anything... it was basically a huge waste of time.
• Currently happily using a 60d, but I'll be upgrading to a 5dmkiii. I plan on buying the lens after the mkiii, so f/4 for indoors might be manageable though not ideal as I'll kick up the iso.
• I don't do studio, but I will throw the camera up on a tripod and use my 430ex to get the shot I want. Yes, a lone 430ex.
• I used to be a snob about using on camera flash... and I still am, though I'll bounce light happily to get more light into the environment and I enjoy the challenge that brings. I actually created a homemade diffuser that I really thought did a very good job of lighting my subject while not causing them to cast much of a shadow. I was very pleased with that.
• I don't like vignetting... I'll add some in post in LR4, but if I can skip that step, I will.
• I like shooting wide open, or at the very least moving the aperture just a step away from wide open... so I'd prefer a lens that is really sharp nearly all wide open
• I am in really low light, handheld situations all the time. In the last year, I shot football games (3rd grade through 8th), I shot an indoor play my daughter was in in rather dark lighting, I shot indoor baskeball (4th graders), an outdoor track event (photographing people run is crazy boring), and then the normal hodge podge of fatherly duties, like a pumpkin festival, a girl scout fireside jamboree (so very dark and I couldn't get even a hint of AF using my 50mm f/1.4easter egg hunts, trick or treating, etc. My subjects generally are both moving at a full run, or not moving at all.
• High priority needs for this length: I'm a big strong guy, so if the lens weighs 10 lbs... it doesn't matter to me. I really like taking Candids. I shoot often in aperture priority and if it is a bright setting I'll throw iso into 100 and the let the camera adjust shutter speed.
• Medium priority needs for this length: Handheld Low-Light (Concerts), Street, Portraits
• Low priority needs for this length: Landscapes, Handheld low-light (Gymnasium Sports)
• Zero need for this length: Video (I'd shoot with my other lenses first), Macro (already have the 100mm f/2.8), Wildlife (I'll go out into the woods, but the only thing I saw the few time I went was a squirrel.
• I buy and sell gear at a small profit, and then I put that money into my gear... So I make around $2,000 a year doing so and it feeds my hobby. So after I get the 5dmkiii, I should have $1,000 and I'm willing to spend maybe $2000 on the lens... up to $3000 if there is a miracle lens that is a great value out there. I'll pay more for better gear at this stage.
• Weather sealing is important... and while I don't want to go out into the rain, I might get caught in the rain and I don't want to lament water spots affecting my image quality.
• I'll print things for my wall, but they tend to be no bigger than 11x16... But if I'm actually doing some sports photography, I really want my shots to be print capable. @ a fathead level, if it comes down to that.

What I'm considering...

I'm willing to consider a 70-200mm f/2.8L IS with a 1.4 or a 2.0 tele-converter. With AFMA on the 5kmkiii, I don't have to worry about front or back focused and I know it is a miracle lens... but I have been disappointed with it's smaller brothers... so I just don't want to go back to the well and not like what I'm seeing AGAIN.

http://www.amazon.com/Sigma-70-200mm-2-8-Telephoto-Canon/dp/B003HC8V9A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1364689577&sr=8-1&keywords=sigma+70-200+2.8

I'm also willing to consider the 70-200mm Sigma. I know it is not quite as good as the Canon, but for $600+ in savings... I might be willing to overlook it. Also... throw on a teleconverter.

It is presumed by many (and absolutely expected by myself) that the EF 50mm F/1.4 USM will finally get a modern refresh like the 24mm, 28mm and 35mm lengths. I own the new 28 and adore it. I hold it in the same regard as my L glass -- it's a joy to use.

I would consider a prime lens if I had two bodies, but switching when the players come closer doesn't seem practical... though I have done something similar when I was trying to compare image quality of a 70-200 to a 100mm. 100mm won.

The Canon 70-300mm f4-5.6L calls to me, but I'm not a big fan of variable apertures, but it does have more reach and it is a good price, but the difference between f/2.8 and f/5.6 means only two additional stops of iso, but that's what gives me reason for concern.

There's also the 100-400mm by canon, but ditto on the variable aperture, f/4.5 to 5.6L. Also, I don't like the the pump action lens. If I recall, it lets in way too much dust.

Sigma has a 120-400 and a 150-500 that sound really interesting, but their apertures are f/4.5-5.6 and f/5-6.3 respectively. I really don't think I would be able to use indoors, kicking up the iso will help, but I'm not sure it will be adequate.

If I were to go with a prime, I kinda like the 300mm f/4L. I don't have too much to say about it, because I really don't want to carry on 200mm prime, one 300mm prime, and one 400mm prime. Both are very well rated on Amazon, 4.5+ stars each, but it doesn't mean that it is right for me.

My mind is really not made up right now, so I'm willing to hear suggestions based on either personal experience or otherwise.

Hi guys,

I use two older, 580ex's as A & B slaves (shown below) and a third 580exII functions as disabled on-camera master.

Recently I have noticed 580EX "B" slave is underexposing a bit. When I swap the two 580EX's (A switched as B assignation), the "A" side is now underexposing. So I think this has something to do with the physical B unit and not an issue at the level of the master or settings.

I now see the B unit always displays "C. fn" on LCD whatever I do with the settings (see picture). The kicker is that both 580EX units are set at C.fn values of "1/0" when I check. There appears to be no way for me to get the B unit C.fn off on the display. To be fair, I really wouldn't even have noticed the display difference between the two 580EX units or cared had it not been for the underexposure issue, so can't rule out it had always displayed that way on this unit. But the exposure issue is recent. So I am not sure if I toggled something or if the unit is malfunctioning or if the C.fn display is normal.

1) Could the display difference be just due to variance based on when or where the 580 units were bought from? "A" is newer and was bought in Europe over a trip, while B is from the US...

2) Is there a way to reset the whole B unit? I am a tad worried if the C. fn funciton is somehow toggled "on" in B unit and is responsible for the exposure discrepency. I am not a speedlite whizz so I am hoping there is an easy answer.

Best, Ray

Hello, everyone!

I have a 60D, ready to go full frame for better ISO and overall IQ. Shoot variety of subjects from family candids (2-year old), sports (in and out), macro, events/ festivals, and some landscape. I plan on keeping my 100L macro (love, love this lens!), and I have an X100S on order which will be my everyday, walk-around camera (effective 35mm focal length). I also have the 40mm pancake which I'd keep so, I have 35mm, 40mm and 100mm FLs covered. I also have a good monopod, tripod and flash. Questions:

• Do I sell the 60D or keep it to house a 70-200 II or 70-300L solely for sports/wildlife (given its reach advantage)? I could see keeping this if I go with the 6D but with a 5D III will I really want to shoot the 60D for sports (even with the loss of reach)?
• I also have the 17-55mm and Tamy 70-300 VC (like the lens to 200 in full light but not so hot to 300) both of which I'll probably sell regardless and due to a tax refund, have about another $5,000 or so to put towards the new body and glass. Call it $6,000 with the sold stuff plus whatever I could get for the 60D if I decide to sell.
• Ideally, I'd like to be as efficient as possible in that I don't want to change lenses constantly and would like to keep my total number of lenses at 5 or 6 most.

What body and lenses would you add given this information? Thank you kindly in advance!

JP

Hello folks,

I thought I'd start my Saturday with an absurdly long thread about 50mm primes.

Why I want a new 50mm...

My Canon EF 50mm F/1.4 USM is a lovely lens for the dollar. Sharp, large aperture, etc. But I have a few more dollars now, and I've noted that I am missing some of the niceties of a modern lens, an L lens, etc. AF can hunt from time to time, and though it has USM, it famously has the older USM which is not super fast. Of late, I've noticed that I miss focus a lot with children. So AF speed is a big reason for the upgrade, but IQ is a constant area for improvement.

Basic brand filtering...

• I am a Canon snob when it comes to lenses. This is generally for quality / reliability / resale reasons.
• Must have AF for this length (sorry, Zeiss)
• I am not interested in the Sigma F/1.4 as it has mixed reviews on build quality, AF, etc. I know there are some huge fans of that lens, but until I see a Sigma 50mm with the accolades and IQ of the new 35mm F/1.4 'art' series, I am not considering Sigma here.

As you guys always ask when someone pipes up about lens selection, here are my shooting needs...

• I am an enthusiast only, been shooting about 9 years now
• Currently happily using a 5D3, so climbing up to ISO 6400 is not a problem.
• I never shoot in a studio environment.
• I almost never use a flash.
• I don't mind vignetting... In fact, I kind of like it sometimes
• I'd rather crank up ISO than shoot fully open as everything is soft in the corners
• I am in really low light, handheld situations all the time. My subjects generally are not moving, but I occasionally shoot at rock concerts. I generally prefer stopping down for sharpness and more useful DOF with IS than getting handcuffed into having to shoot fully open and accept softness and minimal DOF.
• High priority needs for this length: Walkaround, Candids, Kids, Handheld low-light (Not moving subjects)
• Medium priority needs for this length: Handheld Low-Light (Concerts), Street, Portraits
• Low priority needs for this length: Landscapes, Handheld low-light (Gymnasium Sports)
• Zero need for this length: Video, Macro, Field Sports, Wildlife
• I'll pay more for better gear at this stage.
• Weather sealing is great for a landscape-prioritized lens, but as I live in a place with near zero inclement weather, sealing is not a must for me in this length.
• I rarely take things to print.
• I generally shoot my Canon 50mm F/1.4mm in the F/2 to F/5.6 range. I appreciate what large aperture glass offers, but I almost always stop those lenses down for more sharpness, more working DOF, etc.

What I'm considering...

It is presumed by many (and absolutely expected by myself) that the EF 50mm F/1.4 USM will finally get a modern refresh like the 24mm, 28mm and 35mm lengths. I own the new 28 and adore it. I hold it in the same regard as my L glass -- it's a joy to use.

So I am eager to compare this likely new lens to the 50mm F/1.2L. Being an engineer, I then overthought the crap out of this and made a lens comparison spreadsheet. SEE ATTACHED. I've flagged one as better than other in each category, but those are just my opinion. Further, I'm not tallying total wins in each field. See priorities above for what really matters to me.

Please let me know where my assumptions are off, or where your personal experience might have a different opinion. Which 50mm of the two do you think is right for me?

-A

Hey,

Have any of you ever sent a lens to canon?, to callibrate / clean it ?
Did you also send your body to them with the lens?

I am interested in this because i have a lens that is several years old, and also purchased a second hand body.
Everything seems to be working fine, but i wonder if i can send or bring the equipment to a service center to have it checked out?

I have tried to google it in my native language but didn't find any specific steps,
Any of you know what to do? ( I am from the Netherlands btw).

Thanks in advance for help/advice on this subject

Now that the Canon EF 35mm f/2.0 is officially discontinued but still available new at reasonable prices, I'm tempted to get one of these small primes before they become unavailable. The question however is if it's worth it.

I previously had one that I purchased second hand. It was on old, tired lens from 1990 or so and the performance was not what I expected from it, especially when compared to my fantastic 50 mm f/1.8 Mk I. So thinking it was a dud, I sold it on.

What's your experience with recent copies of the 35 mm f/2? And how should they compare to the 50 mm f/1.8 Mk I? Intended use is on full frame as well as crop.