I had a pair of 7Ds and have swapped one for a new 5D3. I don't know if anyone out there goes through periods of inactivity with their photography where their camera may sit unused for weeks at a time but it does happen to me. I've noticed that the 7D will pretty much pick up weeks or a month later virtually where the battery left off. For example if I stopped shooting at 65% battery, a month later it'll be close to it though I never really paid attention to it as it sure wasn't 0. But I've noticed now that my 5D3 after it's first little bit of inactivity has drained it's battery when off. Now, the other day I charged up two of my batteries and left them on the charger for some time after the solid green light. I may be jumping the gun here as it's only been two days since I did this but already I see my 7D battery level at 100% and the 5D3 is registering 99%. How is it that the 5D3 sucks up more juice when off than the 7D? Unless it's an actual fault with the camera, I'm going to really have to pay attention to either removing the battery or charging it up during the times when I'm not using it so much. By the way, the 5D3 was just sitting with the 24-105 on it. I know in the past people have had issues with the Tamron 24-70 and I think there's a grip that used to cause a drain but that's not my situation. Anyway, I'm just curious to know if the tiny drain on the 5D3 is normal with the 7D less being an unusual bonus or if it's the other way around. Again, I assume most people here are avid shooters and don't have a lot of downtime but maybe someone knows. I may also send off an email to Canon and find out what they have to say as to what is normal and not. Thanks in advance.

Or...just a tray of ice with some food coloring added.


.

These are shot with a Canon EF 100-400 L IS USM and Canon 1.4 X TC combo. Canon 7D.

Maybe you will be : your eyes, but does anybody know, how the test-magazines (online, printed) get their cameras for testing?
Are these Cameras "specially improved" by the manufacturers? Or do test magazines get "normal" cameras from the production lines?

This is an upsetting thing for me, considering what I love the most is doing startrails. I took my camera out tonight, slapped on the 17mm ts-e and tried to do a 20 minute exposure. Once I was done, the red processing light remained on for a good five minutes...I turned the camera off and a screen popped up saying, "recording image to disk"...I let this screen run for 10mins before taking my battery out and killing the cycle.

Has anyone run into this problem?

Do I have a defective mark iii?

I have yet to do any firmware updates..

My first thought was my memory card is not fast enough, but it's sandisk extreme cf 60mb/s. I tried an "extreme pro" 90mb/s and I ran into the same issue.

Any help would be wonder as this is really bumming me out

Ps: 30 sec exposures take about 45secs to record and pop up as a preview....

Thanks!

Traveling to AZ in the near future, anybody with some interesting landscape photo opportunities for me to explore in that area?

Maybe a particular regional or state park? Maybe a particular canyon or mountain range? I'm not that familiar with the area but I will have a car and some time.

Any thoughts about this lens. Wicked expensive. But for sports is it worth it vs 70-200 2.8 cropped or the 400 At a higher f. It would be strange for me not to have a zoom have to move to get the proper frame.

I'm received my 6D today and having a blast with it. I also have a 430 EX II that I want to use as a off camera flash. From what I've read so far the options I have ares use a 90EX as the master (trigger) or a Yongnuo YN622C ETTL Wireless Transciever Triggers. I really don't want flash coming off the camera, is there a way to control the 90EX so that it doesn't flash? If there are any other options in those price I'd like to hear from you.

I have a 5d3
24-70 ii
70-200 2.8ii
Sigma 35mm 1.4
600exrt

Take family portraits, vacation photos and eventially school functions.

Not sure where to invest next.
70-300l for more reach
2more 600exrt for flash photography
100mm 2.8 lens portraits and macro
16-35 2.8 for landscape

I know thats a lot of choices but just want to keep expnading and not sure which is the best for vacations and portraits
Considering what i have. I am staring to get into wildlife.

I am doing this poll mostly because I am in the market for a film body. Right now I am still leaning towards an EOS 1V or an AE-1 Program and getting a few FD lenses. Please let me know what y'all think, what y'all like , and why!

Thanks!

I've been shooting for years, but this will be my first rock concert. I'm wondering on lenses. What should I plan for? (no flash photography, of course) Here's my gear:

Body:
5DM3

Lenses:
24-105 f4
50 f1.4 and 1.2
70-200 f2.8 IS II USM
Sigma 12-24 f4

If there's one on the list I really should have, post your suggestions and I can grab a rental. I was figuring that I'd probably be using my 50 and 70-200 the most.

What do you all think?

Hello everyone,

Now it's time I ask a question. I am going to get either the 17 or 24 TS lens. I'm leaning towards the 17 because I'm interested in a lens that wide, but I suppose it doesn't matter. I know the perspective is different (7 mm that wide is a lot), but do either have any optical advantages over the other? Thank you so much.

Umm... That's it really.




Please!!

I was curious how much the Long exp. noise reduction helps to reduce noise. I did a simple test and it didn't come out as expected. Why?

Using LR4, I increase exposure by 1.45 to make it more obvious. The test has been repeated with very consistent result.

Turning long exp. noise reduction on, I notice:
-it does reduce big white pixel (that's hot pixels, isn't it?). good.
-but it introduces more 'fine' noise
-the histogram shifted to the right. Since I put lens cap on and cover the VF, it means more noise.

Turned on:

Turned off:


Full size jpeg:
Turned on: http://www.4shared.com/download/xq1J83El/On_jpeg.jpg?tsid=20130329-172506-af9db705
Turned off: http://www.4shared.com/download/13iNrPVG/Off_jpeg.jpg?tsid=20130329-172524-cba1a4de

RAW:
Turned on: https://www.dropbox.com/s/4wol2dzblooo9sm/On%20RAW.CR2
Turned off: https://www.dropbox.com/s/8h9xp0u8gsr93yz/Off%20RAW.CR2

Can someone please test your EOS body with this function and tell me what's your result? Why is this so? I was planning to turn it ON for my coming miky way photography without a tracking mount. Therefore I was testing at high ISO.

thanks for helping

Hello everyone!

I've been leeching the CR site for some time so I thought I'd register. I shoot events and sports for a university's marketing department. I'm also owner of We Lend Lenses, a local Canon gear rental service in West Michigan.

The rental business is the main reason I visit CR - to keep up to date on new gear. I mostly shoot with the 6D and the f2.8 zoom trinity. Recently purchased the amazing X100 as well, which accompanies the 6D & 85L II.

Need moar L primes ;D

Hi Guys

I m a hobbyist and my current gear is: Canon 5d2, canon 7D, 17-40 F4, Sigma 35 1.4 and 70-200 IS 2.8 II.

I m pleased with the results of the 17-40 for Landscapes, but it`s not stelar. I`m considering the Zeiss 21 2.8, any thoughts?

Thanks
João

Last night while shooting an event, my new (2 months old) 24-70 Mk2 FELL OFF MY 5DMk3 and smashed on a tile floor. I Googled this issue and a lot of people have had this happen. I never gave it much though, but the zoom ring puts my thumb ON TOP OF the lens release button while shooting. I must've hit it accidentally and then, when zooming, rotated the lens off the camera. I tested it with my 16-35 (that I've shot with for years with no trouble) and the zoom ring is farther down the barrel, so it doesn't get bumped. Is this a design flaw with the new 24-70 or am I doing doing something different from every other photog out there? I am devastated.

I want to get a shotgun mic for my 5D3. I do not shoot a lot of video, but I plan on shooting some on my vacation over the summer. I don't want to use onboard sound since the IS on my 24-105 is pretty loud. I was looking at something like the Sennheiser MKE 400 or a Rode VideoMic.

Thanks for any suggestions.

I bought a new canon 24l 1.4 ii last week and found the AF to be wildly inaccurate.

AFMA adjustment of +15 made it better but I still found at anything further away than 50cm it was very hit and miss.

I'm going to send it back for a refund. but I'm wondering if I just got a lemon, or are all canon 24L 1.4 ii like this?
Anyone experience anything similar?

THanks
Alex

Hello!

Where would be the best place to pick up an EOS 1V? I want to find one in a good condition that will last a while. Any thoughts?

Thanks!

I know this is a crazy question about 2 lenses that have very little in common. I'm looking to make my next lens purchase, and I'm deciding between both of these lenses. I eventually plan on owning both but can't figure out what to purchase first. I have a trip to Italy coming up in a month where I'll be in Cinque Terre and Tuscany for a large portion of it, but I also have an active 1 y.o baby that I love to take pictures of. I have used the 24 TS-E II and was a huge fan, but I am worried it's a high price to pay for such a specialized lens. And then I'm worried that the 135L is too much like the 85L or the 70-200 f/2.8L II (granted the 70-200 is much more conspicuous and a huge burden to carry). In general, I shoot a little bit of everything from landscapes to candids to street to my family. For those of you who own both or have tried both, what are your thoughts?

I feel like an idiot asking this. It seems like I should be able to figure this out on my own, since I'm a long time Canon user, but for the life of me, I can't figure out why I am getting two horizontal lines, like video safe lines, embedded into the photo at the top and bottom.

They are not there when I use the viewfinder, which is why I haven' noticed until now. I never use liveview, but I turned it on to let my teenage son take a few snaps out the passenger window and when we played them back, the lines were there. Several test shots later revealed the same result, and I cannot find a way to remove them.

While we're at it, can anyone tell me how to enable hi and lo mode? I can't to ISO 50 for landscape shots. Gonna dig into the CD-ROM manual shortly.

With the release of the Canon 100D on the horizon. I wanted to know what is the best super-zoom to buy that my girlfriend could use. She likes photography, but she hates the gear that comes along with it. I'm fine with carrying 3 lens (UWA, 50mm, Tele) but she wants to just have one lens that does it all. She does want the best quality from her gear so I wanted to know which super zoom has the best quality. I understand the negatives of a super zoom lens. So I'm asking everyone out there if they have any recommendations.

NO. The Canon 28-300L is not going to be an option

Hi Everyone,
So I received my first Einstein and Cybersync Commander today, and I'm trying to trigger a 580ex ii as a slave. However, I'm reading that the 580ex ii can't be triggered as an optical slave by a non-Canon flash. So my question(s) are: 1) Is this true? And 2) If so, how can I trigger the 580ex ii as a slave? Can I use the cord from the Einstein to the 580ex ii or do I pretty much have to pony up for another PCB wireless trigger?

Thanks in advance for the help!

I am looking for two compact manual flashes for a poor-man macro DIY setup. I ordered two 270 EX II's just to find out that they can only be manually controlled from the camera (it is quite obvious by just looking at their pictures, I do not know what I was thinking). Any suggestions? Cheap would be good. Light and small is essential.

On the other hand, any idea how to control manually two 270 EX II, if I keep them? I also ordered an YN-560 II flash which can be used as an IR trigger (not sure how well this will work in a macro setup), and four YN-603C. Camera: 5D2. I want to avoid the use of YN-622C triggers - I need to buy three of them, and they are too big for my needs.