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Lenses for crop AND full-frame bodies (starting up my photography business)

With the intention of starting up my own photography business I'm slowly upgrading my gear with that in mind and am having a hard time deciding on lenses.

The initial plan was to upgrade straight from my Rebel XT to a 5D3, but at the time it wasn't yet available and I ruled out the 5D2 because of the AF issue/old technology and knowing that something better was coming along "soon". So in the meantime I decided an intermediate solution would be to upgrade to a second hand "prosumer" SLR, just to get the hang of a camera with "pro" controls and features as well as better IQ. I ended up with a 50D with a battery grip. My current lens lineup is:

  • Sigma 17-70 f/2.8-4.5 DC -not very happy with neither the IQ nor build.
  • Canon 70-200 f/4L -I love this lens. Build quality and IQ is excellent IMHO but with 1.6x crop the reach is a bit much for general use, so it doesn't get much use unfortunately.
  • Canon 35 f/2 -I got this in order to replace much of the Sigma 17-70 use, better light-sensitivity and in order to start out with primes. It's OK but not great -noisy focusing, cheap build and feel nor does the IQ blow me away (perhaps I expected a bit more than what could be delivered for the price).

I'll be shooting a little bit of everything: portraits, products/advertising, school/kindergarten group shots, events, real estate etc. and when I get more experienced perhaps weddings.
The 70-200 feels like a keeper, especially when I go FF even though most pros seem to go for the f/2.8 version.
For "general use" I had my eyes set on the Canon 24-70 f/2.8L but have been waiting for much the same reason as the body: knowing that a mark II was about to be released. Now that it has been announced along with the hefty pricetag I'm considering other options:

  • Canon 24-105 f/4L IS -seems solid and well built, has a good feel to it and although online reviews differ a lot it seems like a great contender. The IS should be very useful for still-standing subjects in less than perfect lighting.
  • Canon 24-70 f/2.8L II -I haven't ruled it out though it'd better be twice as good as the first version for that price!
  • Canon 24-70 f/2.8L (first version) -thousands of pros can't all be wrong when using it. When the version II gets released I assume its price will drop drastically, but I'm a little hesitant as I read a lot of people find it a "mediocre" lens despite the "L" designation
  • Canon 17-55 f/2.8 IS -not an "L" lens, but possibly an intermediate lens until I go FF. Lots of reviews/reader comments say it's essentially a lens with "L-quality" but with a consumer build
  • A combination of a zoom and one or two primes

I've ruled out the Tamron 24-70 f/2.8 VC because I've gotten the taste of L lenses and rather want to invest in "keepers" rather than "probably just as good". I understand lots of people will disagree with this view.

My conclusion (if you've read this far ;) ):
I think my money might be best spent if investing in a good zoom for allround/general use and a couple of fast primes. I'm aiming for lots of Speedlite/studio strobe rather than "I don't care for (I don't know how to use) flash", so I probably don't need superfast lenses for everything. I wasn't entirely blown away with the low-light capabilities of shooting at f/2 with my 35mm, but again I was probably expecting it to perform miracles. Even with an f/1.2 or f/1.4 of some sort I assume I'll have to crank up the ISO and/or in combination with a flash.

But which lenses would be good for both crop and FF use? Even when I get the 5D3 (an "entry level FF" (whatever that means) is also rumored, perhaps worth looking into) the 50D will probably be a nice backup body. Still, I'll be losing out on wide-angle with most of those FF-designed lenses but could buy a second hand Canon 10-22 f/3.5-4.5 and sell it when I get the FF, hopefully without any/much loss.
Or... should I go an entirely different route and buy second hand EF-S lenses just for the 50D now, then buy separate L lenses for the FF when I get it?
Sorry for the long post :o

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50L vs TS-E 45

I've been tossing around the idea of either trading my 50 1.4 for a 50L or instead add a TS-E45 (to be used with my 5DII). I know, very different lenses, different applications. But I think both could work for me. My main interest with these would be control over sharpness/unsharp areas for things or people that are not necessarily too far away. Shooting wide open for the most part would be the objective here (where I see a potential improvement over my 50 1.4 in addition to build quality).

The straightforward thing to do is obviously to go 50L and be happy. But then again, I recently had the joy to play around with one of the old FD tilt shift lenses. I really liked that thing and the results (35mm on a APS-C sensor).

My favorite focal lengths are probably 50 and 135. I have no real longing for the 35L at this point and the 85L is too expensive.

Any thoughts or experiences? How well would the TS double as a macro-like lens?

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Tonika 16-28 vs Canon 17-40 or Carl Zeiss 21mm f2.8 for canon 5d3

Hi all,

First time poster here on Canon Rumors (been a canon fan for years and I can't believe I have only just come across this site) anyways....I'm in the market for a super wide lens which will bring me brilliant sharpness, contrast and coloured images. I'm looking for a super wide lens (i've got a 35L as my wide lens).

I've been sniffing around and have come across these lenses.

The Tonika 16-28mm -- can get for 650 Pounds

Pro's
Fast 2.8
Decent IQ - the same as the 16-35mmL but not as good as Nikons version unfortunately

Con's
Can be a bit soft in the corners at lower apertures

The canon 17-40L -- can get for 500 pounds

Pro's
Decent enough IQ - obviously not as good as the Nikkor 16-35mm

Con's
Slow f4 aperture (But doesnt really matter for a super wide since you want everything in focus)

Carl Zeiss 21mm f2.8 -- can get for 1140 pounds

Pro's
Super sharp image, edge to edge even at f2.8
Brilliant colours, contrast and saturation.
Built like a tank

Con's
THE PRICE!!!!

If you are in my position, owning a 5D3 and looking for a special lens that will never disapoint, and will deliver the sharpest results out of all your lenses. Would you flag considering the Canon and Tonkina and go straight for the Carl Zeiss....Or is the difference between the lenses not worth the extra money??

Suggestions will be hugely appreciated.

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Which camera setting affect the RAW image ? (NR - Color - Sharpness - etc...)

Hello,

I have a 5D MKIII and 7D
I have switch from Nikon to Canon about a year ago
I would like to know, which camera setting affect the RAW image
When I was using Nikon, on some model, the long exposure noise reduction was clearly affecting not only the JPEG but also RAW image

What about Canon? is there any setting (Noise reduction, color, contrast, sharpness, in camera color filter for monochrome image) that will affect the RAW image?
If so, which one?

Thanks for your help
This is my first post, so I want to say hi to everyone :)

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EOS 5D3 - shooting first wedding on Saturday

Hi,

I recently upgraded to a 5D mark 3 and I am shooting my cousin's wedding this Saturday.

I plan on using the 5D3 with my 24-70mm f2.8L and 70-200mm f2.8L lenses.
For flash it will be my 580EX2 with a Lightsphere Universal (cloud).

I don't usually do weddings so any tips or advice guys out there using the 5D3 at weddings can give me?

Use auto ISO? Use aperture priority mode or leave it to post?

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Canon EOS-1D X Firmware 1.0.6

HTML:
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<strong>Firmware Version 1.0.6 incorporates the following fixes.</strong></p>

<ol>
<li>Fixes a phenomenon in which the AF Microadjustment cannot be correctly carried out.</li>
<li>Fixes a phenomenon such that when using the camera with combinations of certain lens</li>
</ol>
<ul>
<li>*1) and extender</li>
<li>*2) the images captured become back-focused.</li>
<li>*1) EF 70-200m f/2.8L IS II USM or EF200mm f/2L IS USM</li>
<li>When used with</li>
<li>*2) Extender EF 1.4x III or Extender EF 2x III</li>
</ul>
<ol>
<li>Fixes a phenomenon in which, when the camera is powered on in very dark environments (including instances when the lens cap or the body cap is attached), Error 80 appears on the camera.</li>
<li>Fixes the following phenomenon: if two CF cards are inserted into the camera and the “Standard” or “Auto switch card” settings is selected for the recording method for [Record func+card/folder sel.], and then one of the CF cards is removed and then reinserted into the card slot, the card selected for recording and playing back images may be switched to the other CF Card.</li>
<li>Fixes a phenomenon in which the AF microadjustment value is not correctly displayed in the EXIF information of the images captured.</li>
<li>Displays a “O” or “X” result to indicate whether images have been successfully transferred through the FTP protocol when using the FTP protocol when using the WFT-E6 Wireless File Transmitter.</li>
</ol>
<p><strong><a href="http://usa.canon.com/cusa/professional/products/professional_cameras/digital_slr_cameras/eos_1d_x#DriversAndSoftware" target="_blank">Download Firmware 1.0.6</a></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

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Sony A99 Rumored Specs "Leak"

Engadget just posted this about the A99.

http://www.engadget.com/2012/08/28/sony-a99-rumored-specs-leak/

What are your thoughts?

24.3-megapixel CMOS Exmor sensor with an ISO range of 100-25,600, 14 bit RAW output and a 1/8000 maximum shutter speed. Other nuggets of interest include a 102 point AF system, full 1080p HD video recording (at 60fps) and a 921k dot LCD.

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15-85 USM Dust inside

Hey everyone,

Just purchased a 60D and 15-85 USM today and I have a quick question. When I took the lens out of the box and had look at it I noticed there was a tiny speck of dust inside the front glass sitting on the second set of glass off to one side slightly. This is really annoying but I'm not sure if it is something I should really be worrying about. I bought them online so I'm wondering if it is worth sending the lens back overseas or just ignoring it. What do you all think? Any info would be a great help.

Cheers,

Mark.

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The final firmware update for the EOS 5D Mark II?

Will the .5 year old firmware version 2.1.2 be the last and final official for the EOS 5D Mark II? The camera is still in Canon’s camera lineup and has not been discontinued. Please share your thoughts.

The camera does not support the GPS receiver or update the lens firmware which is mostly needed for the 40mm pancake lens owners.

See the major firmware update for the EOS 7D, may the 5D2 too old to get some items of it?

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Sigma 50-150 2.8 OS vs Canon 70-700 2.8 IS II for crop cameras

so its been boggling my mind lately as to why there have not been more reviews of the new Sigma 50-150 2.8 OS.. this lens is some serious piece of kit that rivals the image quality of canons flag ship lens that cost more then twice as much.

i think for anyone who uses a crop cameras that this lens is a no brainier over the canon lens especially if you don't need the extra 50mm reach of the canon.

I recently sold my 70-200 2.8 is II and bought both the Sigma 50-150 2.8 OS and the Sigma 17-50 2.8 OS ... both which are fantastic lenses with basically L quality glass. This makes me think that sigma is finally starting to come into its own... it also shows how over priced the canon lenses really are... after selling the canon 70-200 and buying the Sigma lenses i was still left with close to $400 lol.

does anyone else have any other input on this matter?

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AF Focus Point on 5D Mark II...

Ok All, I just got my 70-200 2.8 II and so far it's awesome! I had a chance to shoot a few portraits in natural light, when sun is almost setting and the lens just blows me away.

However, when I was indoor and had my aperture wide open at 2.8 and tried to shoot a couple zoomed in, the picture was focused on only 1 of the couple...the other person was out of focus.

I had my camera set at Evaluative Metering & chose Center Point focus. What settings should I set it if I desire to shoot at f2.8 but have all parties, be it a couple or a group of people, focused? What methods do you suggest?

Thanks for your input!

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100mm f2.8 HIS Macro question!

Just a question for owner's of this lens - I just got mine today from BHphoto and I noticed that the HIS system sounds kinda odd. Maybe I'm just not used to it - as most lenses I've owned haven't had IS/HIS - so it's just a new sound but it just seemed weird.

Turned it off too to make sure it wasn't the af system or anything else and it's only present when HIS is enabled.

Thanks!

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What does an ST-E3-RT transmitter in a hotshoe do, that a master 600EX-RT can't

Instead of buying a 600EX-RT flash + an ST-E3-RT transmitter, for my 5D Mark III, suppose I buy two 600EX-RT
The master will sit on the hotshoe, and the other will be used as a slave

Question
Apart from the price difference , size and weight penalty, what functions wil be missing from the flash, that I would be getting from a dedicated ST-E3-RT transmitter?

Thanks, and apologies if this was already discussed elsewhere

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Upgrade from 10d to 60d or 7d

I was thinking I need upgrade to get higher iso on newer body.
I was going to get a refurbed, but is the extra 300+ worth it for 7d?
I have 17-40L and 70-200 2.8 is lenses.

I guess my action pictures will be of marching band in HS.
I am weary of 60d focusing if it behaves like the 10d focusing, where it is zoomed out,
it picks wrong object?

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Washington State National Parks

I have limited mobility and can handle moderate terrain and no strenuous or steep trails. I can probably handle a mile or two each way with several breaks. If anyone has any suggestions for good photo ops in Mt Rainier and Olympic National Parks as well as places to stay, I'd appreciate the help. If there is a better forum, please let me know. Is Mt St Helens a doable day trip from Mt Rainier or should I spend at least a day or so to do it justice? I'm planning on mid-July, early August 2013.

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Flat lens offers a perfect image

https://www.seas.harvard.edu/news-events/press-releases/flat-lens-offers-perfect-image
The flat lens eliminates optical aberrations such as the “fish-eye” effect that results from conventional wide-angle lenses. Astigmatism and coma aberrations also do not occur with the flat lens, so the resulting image or signal is completely accurate and does not require any complex corrective techniques.


It looks basically like a diffractive optical element taken to it's logical, nanoscale, conclusion. Very interesting.

Edit... I should probably note this isn't currently suitable for visible light (THz through near IR), so your 70-200/2.8 pancake will have to wait.

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