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Need a treatise on image quality

Let's assume that I would use only Canon long prime glass, the ones with the mostly flat MTF lines, yeah the expensive ones.
And, that PS's photomerge feature is commonly used in my workflow, to overcome limited FOV while using those long, flat, MTF lined, expensive lenses.

I'm in the market for a new body with the criteria being superior low light capabilities, something my 1DsIII is somewhat lacking, and superior IQ.
Dynamic Range and bit depth also rank in the want column as well. I'm thinking that photomerge will overcome the need for high MP needed for large images.

I'm thinking that a crop sensor that utilizes the "center sweet spot" of the lens coupled with reduced MP to allow more utilized light would be the answer.

Am I overlooking/overanalizing my decesion making process...

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Anyone using UDMA7 cards in 1DsMk3? ...and they work?

I have recently started using a 1DsMk3. I don't know the manufacture date. I had problems with a Lexar64Gig UDMA7 card. Amazon is sending a new one. But I suddenly wondered if the brand-new standard was not compatible with the older firmware, motherboard, etc.

So to be sure I am asking if 1DsMk3 users have good experience with UDMA 7 cards.

jonathan7007

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Canon 5D Mark iii HDMI Clean Output?

So I heard Canon Announced that in the April of 2013, or next month, the Canon 5D Mark iii would get an update which would allow for a clean HDMI output. Does this mean that we can use an external recorder such as the BlackMagic Hyperdeck Shuttle for external recording? If so, then can we actually record at a higher fps such as 60p at Full HD? if not, then what kind of impact does this have on videomakers? Thank You in Advance!

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Canon EOS 100D Detailed Specs Appear

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<p><strong>A New EOS?</strong>
The following spec list has appeared on the Best Buy web site. These specifications could possibly be placeholder specs, though they appear about as legit as they come.</p>
<p>The most telling features in the spec list are the dimensions. The weight of 13.1oz make this DSLR 5oz lighter than the Rebel T4i.</p>
<p>We’re still going with the EOS 100D name, but that may not be definite.</p>
<p>Pricing for the camera is going to be $799 USD with the EF-S 18-55 IS Kit, though this is unconfirmed.</p>
<p><strong>Specifications Breakdown</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Model: 8575B003</li>
<li>18mp APS-C sensor</li>
<li>DIGIC 5 Processor</li>
<li>3″ LCD Touch Screen</li>
<li>4 fps</li>
<li>Optical viewfinder with 95% coverage and 0.87x magnification</li>
<li>9-point AF system (dual-cross f/2.8 center point)</li>
<li>Face-detect AF</li>
<li>30s-1/4000s shutter speeds</li>
<li>External hot shoe</li>
<li>ISO 100-25,600</li>
<li>HD video capture</li>
<li>LP-E12 battery</li>
<li>SDXC card slot</li>
</ul>
<p>Read more after the break…..</p>
<p><!--more--></p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th scope="col">Specs:</th>
<th scope="col">Details:</th>
<th scope="col">Description:</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Warranty Terms – Parts</th>
<td>1 year limited</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Height</th>
<td>3.6 inches</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Width</th>
<td>4.6 inches</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Depth</th>
<td>2.7 inches</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Weight</th>
<td>13.1 ounce</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Megapixels (Effective)</th>
<td>18.0</td>
<td>A camera’s image sensor resolution measured in millions of tiny dots (pixels). <i>Effective</i> megapixels — the number of megapixels actually used to capture the image — is typically slightly lower than the number of <i>total</i> available megapixels.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Image Resolution</th>
<td>Up to 5184 x 3456</td>
<td>The clarity of a digital image, determined by multiplying the number of pixels wide by the number of pixels high (e.g., 640 x 480).</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Digital Zoom</th>
<td>None</td>
<td>This is not true zoom, it is merely simulating zoom by enlarging the existing image’s pixels by cropping. The actual length of the lens does not change. Digital zooming results in reduced image quality, and should generally be avoided or turned off on your camera altogether. Optical zoom is recommended to ensure crisp, detailed photos.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Lens Features</th>
<td>EF-S 18 – 55mm f/3.5 – 5.6 IS zoom lens</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Lens Focal Length(s)</th>
<td>35mm equivalent 18 – 55mm (with included lens)</td>
<td>The distance (in millimeters) from a camera’s image sensor to its lens, usually given in terms of the 35mm (film camera) equivalent. Cameras with optical zoom have a range of focal lengths, while cameras without optical zoom have a fixed focal length.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">LCD Screen Size</th>
<td>3″</td>
<td>Size of the LCD screen, in inches, measured diagonally from corner to corner.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">LCD Screen Features</th>
<td>Color TFT-LCD touch screen</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Viewfinder</th>
<td>Optical with 95% coverage and approximately 0.87x magnification</td>
<td>Provides the photographer with an approximation of what the lens is seeing. In addition to a conventional optical viewfinder, most digital cameras also provide a color LCD panel.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Image Stabilization</th>
<td>Yes, optical</td>
<td>Digitally compensates for camcorder shake so videos appear steady.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Face Detection</th>
<td>Yes</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Burst Mode</th>
<td>Yes</td>
<td>Also referred to as continuous shooting, burst mode captures multiple shots in rapid succession with a single click of the shutter. This is a useful feature when shooting subjects in motion.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Panorama Mode</th>
<td>No</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Image Stitching</th>
<td>No</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Internal Memory</th>
<td>None</td>
<td>Memory that is built into a digital camera for storing images.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Compatible Memory Formats</th>
<td>Secure Digital (SD)|Secure Digital Extended Capacity (SDXC)|Secure Digital High Capacity (SDHC)</td>
<td>Number of images that can be stored on a digital camera’s built-in memory and/or included removable memory cards. This number varies depending on the resolution of each image. The higher the resolution of the image, the more storage space it takes up.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Shutter Speeds</th>
<td>30 – 1/4000 sec.</td>
<td>The rate (typically measured in fractions of a second) at which a camera shutter opens and closes to capture an image. Slow shutter speeds are used for low-light conditions, while faster speeds are best for action shots.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Aperture Range</th>
<td>f/3.5 – 5.6 (with included lens)</td>
<td>The range, expressed in f-stop numbers, from a camera’s largest lens opening setting to its smallest. The greater this range, the more manual control and creative license available to the photographer in regard to light and focus.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">White Balance</th>
<td>Auto, preset (daylight, shade, cloudy, tungsten light, white fluorescent light, flash), custom white balance correction, white balance bracketing</td>
<td>Settings that assess and compensate for color conditions in any given lighting to ensure true-to-life color. Most digital cameras feature automatic white balance settings as well as the option to manually override such settings.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Flash Modes</th>
<td>Auto, flash on, flash off, red-eye reduction on/off, slow sync</td>
<td>Flash settings. Common modes include <i>Auto</i> (camera decides when the flash is needed), <i>Red-Eye Reduction</i> (minimizes eye reflections) and <i>Fill</i> (reduces deep shadows in bright sunlight).</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">External Flash Mount</th>
<td>Yes</td>
<td>(Also referred to as a <i>hot shoe.</i>) Available on some higher-end digital cameras (usually SLR digital cameras) to allow the addition of an external flash for extra light.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Focus Range</th>
<td>9.8′ – infinity</td>
<td>Distance over which the camera is capable of focusing on the subject.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Movie Mode</th>
<td>Yes</td>
<td>Captures short, low-resolution video clips, sometimes with sound.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">ISO Equivalent</th>
<td>Auto, 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200, 6400, 12,800, 25,600</td>
<td>Measurement of a digital camera’s light sensitivity, which is equivalent to a conventional camera’s film speed. The higher the ISO, the clearer the image in low-light conditions.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Camera Dock</th>
<td>Not included</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Image Storage Capacity</th>
<td>Varies</td>
<td>Number of images that can be stored on a digital camera’s built-in memory and/or included removable memory cards. This number varies depending on the resolution of each image. The higher the resolution of the image, the more storage space it takes up.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Batteries</th>
<td>1 battery pack LP-E12 (included)</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Imaging Sensor Type</th>
<td>CMOS</td>
<td>Type of element used to convert light into a digital image. The most common types are CCD (charge-coupled device) and CMOS (complementary metal-oxide semiconductor).</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Imaging Sensor Size</th>
<td>22.3mm x 14.9mm</td>
<td>Size of the CCD or CMOS image sensor, usually measured in fractions of an inch (e.g., 1/1.8″ or 2/3″). In general, the larger the sensor, the better the picture quality.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Touchscreen</th>
<td>Yes</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Color Category</th>
<td>Black</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">HD Movie Mode</th>
<td>Yes</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Smile Mode</th>
<td>No</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Waterproof</th>
<td>No</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Coldproof</th>
<td>No</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Shockproof</th>
<td>No</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Product Depth</th>
<td>2.7″</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Low-Light/High Sensitivity</th>
<td>Yes</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Max ISO</th>
<td>12801 and higher</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">Frames Per Second</th>
<td>1 – 4</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th scope="row">UPC</th>
<td>013803222654</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p> </p>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<p> </p>

How to not get beat up when photographing public places?

I'm not being facetious, but more than once now when taking out my camera in public places I've gotten threats from passers by and general dirty looks.

Just recently, here in Los Angeles a guy who was just walking by my shot (not the actual subject of it) threatened to beat the crap out of me if I was taking his picture. On another occasion in Texas, while taking some photos of an abandoned house, I was approached by two guys who started giving me a hard time.

Keep in mind than in most instances I'm not pointing my camera toward a complete stranger to grab a close up or anything of the sort, just pointing the camera in general directions without focusing on any one person in particular. Nor am I shooting in bad parts of town.

Any advice on how to diffuse a potentially dangerous situation? How do you guys handle a hostile person who threatens you if they suspect that you've just snapped a photo with them somewhere in it?

Do you try to conceal your cameras (kinda hard to do with a large body like the 5D)?

I'm all ears about both advice and any stories you're all willing to share as to a similar situation which happened to you.

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Canon 24-70mmL II v Canon 50mmL 1.2

Hi all,

I have recently sold a a 300mm L 2.8 IS and have some money burning a hole in my pocket. I have recently bought a Canon16-35L II with some of the proceeds and am now trying to make my mind up between the 24-70 and the 50L 1.2 Canon as a walk around lens with occasional use for portrait I have a 70-200L 2.8 II and a Macro 100L 2.8 IS, I use the lens on a 5D mkIII.

I have tried the 50L on the 5D III and it is fast and super sharp, I have read a lot of negative comments about this lens but my experience was very positive. I had a very short time with a 24-70 II at B&H today and it was a lovely lens. I am hoping that someone who has experience with both could give me the benefit of their experience so that I can make a decision.

Thanks

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Is my 24-105mm f/4 L unreasonably soft?

I've had my 24-105mm f/4 L since 2006, and it's been my day-to-day walkaround for most of that time. I always found it difficult to get pin-sharp shots with it, but assumed it was always my technique.

However, I recently decided to check the sharpness of my lenses and perform AFMA calibration on them. What really shocked me is that my girlfriend's EF-S 17-85mm actually appears to be sharper than my 24-105 L!

If anyone here has the 24-105 L, and have done sharpness shots with it, would you mind chipping in? I wonder if this is a naturally soft lens or if mine is out of whack. I know the lens is weakest at 24mm, but mine seems to be pretty terrible!

Standard Lightroom settings, sharpness turned down to 0.

100% crop at 105mm:

IMG_0013.jpg


100% crop at 24mm:

IMG_0012.jpg

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just got a 5Diii, and wow!!

I just upgraded from a 7D (which I still have) to a 5Diii, and it's an amazing upgrade! I'm starting to wonder if my 7D needs some service work because the difference was so dramatic. My lenses are alive, alive!! Since I am getting into portraits and other possibly paid work, I'm debating trading in the 7D for another 5Diii (the 5Diii really is amazing in IQ, focusing, even the HDR is great though not perfect). I was also thinking of trading the 7D for a 5Dii, or maybe just send in the 7D for some a tune-up (it's only got about 15000 clicks on it). I lean slightly towards the 5Dii, because that will leave some funds for another lens (maybe 16-35 or tam 24-70). Any advice? Thanks!

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Picture quality questions 6D.

As a hobbyist, I am almost ready for digital, ie the the 6D, after patiently waiting for Velvia-like results from digital. However, I note that despite Ken Rockwell saying that the 6D, and 5D3, can finally crank out fully saturated natural colors, I then read that 5D3 shots have needed 'Perfectly Clear' software to tidy up/corect/improve, color, contrast, etc etc etc. Does anybody have a strong opinion on this, before I start-up. How come Canon EOS in 2013 can't do this, and that I would need to buy software to do so. What I like about Velvia,, 35mm and MF, get evrything right, take the photo ,and you have it all. Unfortunately there is no stock nor processing here I now live. I really dont want to fiddle with any after-shooting processes. (Before calling Rockwell a moron, as many have, note that he only reviews gear he uses and paid for in full, or gear he plans to use/buy. And, that Ken is a scientist/engineer who conceived the world’s first dedicated digital colorspace converter chip, the TMC2272, back in 1990 when he worked at TRW LSI Products. He’s been working with the matrix math, hardware and software that does this for decades. He also coined the word “gigacolors,” for use with 36-bit and 48-bit color data. TRW. He is a pro photogarpher, see his velvia 5x4s.

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Should I buy the 60D or wait for the 70D?

Hey, I'm going to buy a DSLR and don't know which one I should get. The 60D has too much noise for me, because I will take photos in 'less light situations'. One other bad thing is the old sensor.. but the 60D is cheaper than others. I want a camera in a average price level about 1000€. Nevertheless, should I buy the Canon 60D or should I wait? Please help me.

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Frustrated with Canon

Am I alone in feeling that Canon has, perhaps, lost its way at the top end of the market, albeit temporarily ? The new top end models simply don't provide what I want. The EOS1DX is clearly a sports camera body, not a studio camera, and I resent Canon for trying to pretend that it is.

I've been with Canon now for years, having used their EOS film bodies before digital . Time spent with Nikon !DXs confirmed my view that Canon had far superior ergonomics, and five years ago, the Canon EOS1DS Mk III was a game changer. However, since then Canon seems to have lost touch with its professional customers. As a result, last year, I bought a Nikon ( D800E) which I currently run along side my Canon equipment. It is a fine camera. Nikon seems to have priced this camera very competitively indeed, and I gather that it is making large inroads into what should have been the preserve of the 5D3 market.

Now we're told that Canon have no intention of producing a higher MP camera until next year, and given Canon's habit of announcing cameras long before they actually become available, the reality could be some time after that. By which time the Nikon D4X will be out.

How frustrating. I want to stay with Canon, but they sure are making it difficult.

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Question about the 1.4 teleconverter iii and the 100-400 F4-5.6 L

I have a 5D Mark iii. My go to lens for bird photography is the 100-400 F4 - 5.6 L IS. I'd like something with more reach but can't afford any of the longer focal length L series lenses. I've tried the Sigma 150-500 on the camera and I'm unimpressed with that lens.

I was looking at the B & H website tonight and it states that the 1.4 teleconverter will autofocus the 100-400 F4-5.6 L on "professional cameras." They don't define the term and I'm unclear what that means. Is the Mark iii a "professional camera" and will the 1.4 teleconverter autofocus the 100-400 on that camera?

Anyone out there have a clue?

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Is there anything I can improve on this gear list?

So I made the jump to FF with my 5D

I love it so much and I feel like it was a step up from my T1i. Thanks to everyone who helped me on this forum haha.

My new question is what should my lens set up be? I currently have theses lenses for my 5D:
-Canon 17-40 f/4 (upgraded from a Tamron 17-35 f/2.8-4.0)
-Canon 50mm f/1.8
-Canon 70-200 f/4

Is there any other lens that I should be looking at? I mainly shoot at family parties and friendly gatherings. Occasionally I do some landscape photography and interior/exterior photography of buildings
I'm thinking about getting a Canon 24-105 but I have lens that already cover that focal length. I do want some primes like the Canon 35mm f/2 or the Canon 100mm f/2 (not the 2.8 macro).

I think I'm set for flashes since I have a 580exII and 430exII. Anyone have any suggestions for expanding my gear list?

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mirror lock up

ive been experimenting with mirror lock up recently, and it got me thinking, i should probably do some tests!

though probably very un scientific, i found there to be absolutely no difference between 1. remote shutter press and 2. remote shutter press+mirror lock up.

there was a noticeable difference for the worse when pressing the shutter button manually with either the mirror up or down.

this test was done on a tripod indoors same focus/apeture/iso etc photographing some small writing on a side of a lens box. zooming in 100% onto same part of the picture.

is mirror lock up just a battery waste?

should you always use a remote shutter press for EVERYTHING? even hand held stuff if thats even possible ?

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Crazy... go Nikon?

Call me mad... but cameras are a tool and the eye is all important.

I make the most photographically via my landscape and fine art prints, and I also cover events and photojournalism.

Up till recently I used a 1Ds III and a 24 mm TS-E II for the first and a 1DX with a 70-200 mm and a 400 mm f/2.8 I IS L for the second. Although quite happy with the TS-E II and the 1DX, I am feeling quite a bit let down by the 1Ds III. Files simply are not up to scratch compared to a 1DX.

Now a crazy thought entered my mind... how about going dark, and selling part of the gear to reinvest in a D800E (!!) and the fabled 14-24 mm, since I do most of my work on the landscape side?

The 400 mm f/2.8 has already been sold, at a profit. The fisheye, 135 f/2, 100 mm macro, 50 mm 1.2 might consider selling, keeping the 70-200 mm and the tilt shift.

Does playing both systems make sense? Canon have no higher resolution sensor, and the Nikkor ultrawide is a renowned lens. Now Canon might be considering a higher MP body at some point, but it is still total vaporware.

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EOS 100D Coming? [CR1]

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<p><strong>The Small DSLR

</strong>We were told this morning that two new EOS cameras will be announced on March 21/22, 2013. One of them will be the “diminutive” EOS 100D and the other was unnamed by this new source. It was also mentioned that the price of the EOS 100D was “a bit expensive”.</p>
<p>The same source said no 70D was coming this week, and it will be announced later in the spring. This point contradicts the information given by some pretty good sources, though it’s not impossible that things have changed since I first heard good info about the 70D.</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>
<p> </p>

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Speedlite: 430EX II vs. 600EX

Hello,

I have been using a 430EX II on my EOS 7D and EOS 5D Mark III, most often with a Gary Fong Lightsphere, for indoor or outdoor family events or weddings. I am rather happy with it but I am questioning myself whether the more powerful 600EX (with a guide number of 60 vs. 43) would bring any benefit for this kind of usage?

One of the particular aspects where I found the 430EX II to be limiting is the recycling time, e.g. for repeat shots such as when the new weds walk down the church's aisle. But if I read the technical specifications correctly, the 430EX II has a recycling time of around 3 seconds and the 600EX would take even longer with 3.3 seconds (source: Canon's official website).

Any real life experience with the two Speedlites?

Thank you,
Alain

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Canon SX50 lens for DSLR

For $400 the Canon SX50 has an amazing zoom range, and now with RAW! It's too bad they won't make a lens like this for DSLRs, I don't care if I'm not using the full sensor, I would still get the speed and high iso etc...

Canon SX50 Extreme Zoom 200x FULL HD

I'd love to see a shoot out with this and one of those $300 samyang 800 -1200 f8 manual focus lens or Sigma 150-500, Tamron 18-270.

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