Landscape From 36,000 Feet!

Hi guys!

Recently on a trip to Florida, I experienced an outstanding sunset! I took many frames and waited for the right moment for the beacon light to flash (red light under jet fuselage/body). Struggling to cover the Personal TV with a magazine in front of me, the passenger next to me noticed and offered to hold it against it so I can reduce the window reflection. Being very patient and still, I pulled of this handheld 2.5 exposure photo at ISO 320:


I N F L I G H T by Jan Jasinski, on Flickr

I was astonished how the photo turned out, of course not perfect and slightly blurry but not too noticeable for a fairly long handheld shot!

C+C appreciated :)

Thanks for looking!

Jan

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Question for techies, Port of call: 2.0 crop factor

I"m using a 5D and a 60D, the later as a kind of tele converter to my lenses.
Now there is the talk of a smaller than Rebel form factor which still connects to EF and EFS.

What would be the maximum sensor size possible if you want to use EF and EFS lenses but desire to achieve a 2.0 rather than the 1.6?

Carying a somewhat smaller camera just for the sake of having a small camera does not apeal to me... but a body that makes my 120-300 2.8 become a 240-600 2.8 would be a dream.

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New wide angle lens for FF

I'm looking for a new wide angle lens for 5dmkiii for landscapes.

I'm selling a sigma 24 70 hsm because generally I find its not sharp enough and the af is slow. I have 35, 50 and 85 covered by wide aperture primes so I'm not to bothered with the zoom anymore either.

The options I'm considering are

Canon 16 35 f2.8 ii
Canon 24 f1.4 ii

Any thoughts on these two lenses? Or any other ideas to cover wide angle landscapes?

Thanks
Alex

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5D MK iii - Help a n00b select AF modes

Hi guys,

In the hunt for becoming a better photographer, my new camera is bringing me all sorts of joys.

But, I am a little confused as to the general consensus of what AF mode to leave my camera in is best. I started using Single Point AF, then surround and even grid.. But I am unsure as what you guys use and whether or not there is a specific 'general' mode you leave it in?

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  • Poll Poll
Which eye do you shoot with?

Which eye do you use to shoot?

  • Primarily left

    Votes: 23 40.4%
  • Primarily right

    Votes: 27 47.4%
  • Both (depending on the situation)

    Votes: 6 10.5%
  • Mostly LiveView

    Votes: 1 1.8%

Just a random question I was thinking about: which eye do you raise the viewfinder to when you're shooting?

I instinctively raise the camera to my left eye and always have. However, I was debating if it'd be worth learning to use my right.

That is, with my right eye still on the viewfinder, in theory I could use my left to look past the camera and survey the scene-- then quickly switch to using my right when I needed to aim, compose, and shoot.

Obviously it's not too important in the grand scheme of things, but I was just curious where you guys stood.

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Canon EF 200 f/2L IS & EF 800 f/5.6L IS [CR2]

HTML:
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<strong>New white lenses?</strong>

There has been some talk in the last little while about these two lenses possibly being replaced sooner than later. From personal experience, I know that Canon has discontinued the lens hood for the <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/542293-REG/Canon_2746B002AA_EF_800mm_f_5_6L_IS.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">EF 800 f/5.6L IS</a>, this hood also worked with the 400 f/2.8L IS. Another lens that has become quite hard to get is the <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/542292-REG/Canon_2297B002_Telephoto_EF_200mm_f_2L.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">EF 200 f/2L IS</a>. I have talked to Canon Canada and they’ve been out of stock for a while with no ETA. That’s not always a perfect way to measure replacement of a lens, but with the more expensive ones, it usually is (I’d say 90%).</p>
<p>We’ve been told both lenses would be replaced after the EF 200-400 f/4L IS 1.4x is officially announced and production has started.</p>
<p>Current stock levels on the <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/542293-REG/Canon_2746B002AA_EF_800mm_f_5_6L_IS.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">EF 800 f/5.6L IS</a> remain good, but how many $13,000 lenses do they sell? Replacements for both would make sense as Canon could use the same exterior materials that they’re using in the 200-400, <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/732108-USA/Canon_4411B002_EF_300mm_f_2_8L_IS.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">EF 300 f/2.8L IS II</a>, <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/732109-USA/Canon_4412B002_EF_400mm_f_2_8L_IS.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">EF 400 f/2.8L IS II</a>, <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/754507-USA/Canon_5124B002_500mm_f_4L_EF_IS.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">EF 500 f/4L IS II</a> & <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/754508-REG/Canon_5125B002_EF_600mm_f_4L_IS.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">EF 600 f/4L IS II</a> lenses.</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

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The Next Rebel? [CR1]

HTML:
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<strong>The first spec list?</strong>

It looks like the first spec list of the “small DSLR” coming from Canon is making its rounds. I can confirm that the next Rebel is said to have the exact same sensor as the current 650D and EOS M. The big feature difference would probably be the size and some of the interface functionality. Let’s hope it doesn’t share the same AF performance of the EOS M when in liveview mode.</p>
<p><strong>Specifications</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>18MP sensor (same sensor featured on the EOS M and EOS 650D)</li>
<li>DIGIC 5</li>
<li>Touchscreen similar to the EOS M</li>
<li>9 focusing points</li>
<li>A new hybrid CMOS auto-focus</li>
<li>98% viewfinder</li>
<li>6fps</li>
<li>ISO up to 25,600</li>
<li>EF and EF-S lens support</li>
<li>HD video</li>
</ul>
<p>The announcement for the next Rebel isn’t too far away, though we cannot confirm if it’s going to appear alongside the EOS 70D next week.</p>
<p>Source: [<a href="http://www.canonwatch.com/breaking-news-first-specs-of-canons-super-small-dslr-showed-up/" target="_blank">CW</a>]</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

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T-Stop Web Site listings

Guys, I'm wondering if we can collate a set of web links which points to sites which show T-Stop listings for Canon lenses?
DP review are now adding T Stop listings for their reviews, starting with the new 24-70 f2.8 II L. But they aren't retrospectively re-working all their other reviews. So I'm wondering if there's any other sources? DXO optics list a single T-Stop value for their lens reviews...but this is only good for primes. Zooms need at least two values, one from each end of the zoom.

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In-camera noise reduction

This question is directed to the technically knowledgeable out there and has to do with in-camera noise reduction settings. Although I'm shooting with a 1D4, I would guess the same would apply to all models.

In a nutshell, is in-camera noise reduction (assuming it's enabled) applied to RAW files or just to JPEGs? If it's applied to RAW files (which is all I shoot), have any of you shot RAW with noise reduction disabled, and if so, how were the results?

I tried to do a search here on this topic but was unable to find any information.

Thanks.

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Added dandelion chips to my lensbaby and samyang 8mm

I grabbed a couple of these from this seller off ebay
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/280692958416?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

They arrived yesterday and I installed them on my Lensbaby composer pro with sweet 35 optic
and on my samyang 8mm fisheye

really well made and come with a really nice accurate little plastic locating template so you get the chip in exactly the right spot as well as some little plastic filler/spacers to bring the height up (which i needed on both these lenses.
I glued them on with araldite a 2 part epoxy glue that sets quite fast but not too fast allowing me to get the position just right, importantly the glue does not have vapour like superglue which could mess up the rear lens element.

I followed these programming instructions and it all went perfectly
http://www.leitax.com/conversion/Chip/Dandelion-Canon-programming.html

I hope this info helps anyone else looking to do the same

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How to Pre-Visualize like Ansel Adams

The concept of previsualization in photography is where the photographer can see the final print before the image has been captured. Ansel Adams dedicates the beginning of his first book to previsualization, and is often quoted as saying "Visualization is the single most important factor in photography". Understanding then the significance of this approach is of high value for photographers of all kinds, as it has the potential to unlock greater creative vision, and give greater control (and predictability) over the print process.

Although I'm still just a beginner, I have consolidated some of my thoughts on this here: http://grahamclarkphoto.com/how-to-pre-visualize-a-photograph-like-ansel-adams/

Hopefully others can find it useful!

Graham

Ansel_Adams_Denali.jpg

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best NON L long lens

im looking for a cheapish bird/garden lens but cannot afford a nice L lens.

prime or zoom, doesnt bother me, probably 300mm+ on a full frame.

does any body know a good model from any manufacturer , of course its not gonna be the best optically, probably noisy, slow autofocus, bearing all that in mind, whats the best of the worst out there?

thanks for any recommendations

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24-70mm f/2.8L II or EF 24-70mm f/4L IS or EF 24-105mm f/4L IS at F9

I see continual comparisons between the canon 24-70mm f/2.8L II, EF 24-70mm f/4L IS and the EF 24-105mm f/4L IS but they are all shot at low apertures. I shoot a lot of landscape photography and would like everyones advice on the sharpness of these lenses around F9 or F11. Will I notice much of a difference at this aperture between any of these lenses?

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Dynamic Range vs. Exposure Range, and why the difference matters

I just came across some articles written by ctein at The Online Photographer. He brought to light a term that I think would be very useful when it comes to discussing dynamic range of modern cameras. Frequently, the debate arises about what DXOMark's Print DR statistic means, usually in conjunction with the D800's whopping and hard-to-swallow rating of 14.4 stops. Some people have come up with the term "Photographic Dynamic Range" to refer to the thing most photographers think of when they hear "dynamic range", but the meaning of PDR is not super clear all the time. I think ctein's explanation in the two articles below is an excellent one, and I like the differentiation the term "Exposure Range" allows relative to "Dynamic Range". I think Exposure Range (apparently an existing term used in the film days) appropriately and accurately describes what most photographers think of when they hear "dynamic range". Dynamic Range, the way DXO describes it, is quite appropriately called Dynamic Range as it has to do with the "signal", not necessarily the usable range of tones in an "image", nor the characteristics or quality of the noise that may affect the exposure range of the image.

http://theonlinephotographer.typepad.com/the_online_photographer/2012/09/dynamic-range-is-not-exposure-range-part-i.html
http://theonlinephotographer.typepad.com/the_online_photographer/2012/09/dynamic-range-is-not-exposure-range-part-ii.html

Ctein also puts forward the notion that as many pixels comprise an image, it is theoretically possible for the exposure range to be higher than the dynamic range. He explains it in the second article. Interesting concepts. I am not sure how well it applies with RAW and raw editors these days...the expandibility of exposure range via dithering (which is effectively what Part II covers) is theoretically possible, but in my experience noise in the lower tonal range of a RAW image tends to have too high of a standard deviation to be effective as a medium for dithering. I've never used a top-end camera like the 1D X, however...perhaps its superior noise characteristics would.

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Canon tells me tethered shoots have to go direct to the "C" drive

Canon told me today tethered shoots have to go direct to the "C" drive...rather than a SSD on the laptop bus but not the C drive. That seems a little restrictive and nowhere mentioned in dialogs. I will look in the documentation...

I have been having tether trouble which now after the call and a card switch, may have been caused by a faulty Lexar 400x 64Gig UDMA7 CF card I recently bought. I would love to think my recent trouble in a liveView shoot was caused, too, by this card. On another nearby thread a 1Ds user said they have tens of thousands of LiveView shutter actuations with ZERO problems. Crossing my fingers that further testing today settles this.

Anyway, the C drive rule was a surprise.

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Waiting to Shoot the New Pope with Nikkor 1200-1700mm Lens

As published in: http://news.yahoo.com/photos/reuters-photographer-dylan-martinez-tests-1200-1700mm-super-photo-173328418.html
...
Reuters photographer Dylan Martinez tests a 1200-1700mm super-telephoto zoom lens, trained on the balcony of Saint Peter's Basilica where a new pope will appear after his election, a day before the beginning of the conclave at the Vatican March 11, 2013. Cardinals held final discussions on the troubled state of the Roman Catholic Church on Monday, the day before they seclude themselves from the world to elect a new pontiff, with no frontrunner in view. Stunned by the abdication last month of Pope Benedict, the red-hatted cardinals have met repeatedly this past week, sketching out the qualities of the person needed to face the huge challenge of leading the scandal-plagued church.
...
The monster in his hand is a Nikkor 1200-1700mm f/5.6-8P IF ED lens. It has 18 elements in 13 groups, 9 diaphragm blades, the angle of view is 2°-1°30', minimum focusing distance is 10m (32 ft), the lens weights 16 kg (over 35lbs) and is 888mm (35 in.) long.

Image 2, 3 & 4 are published by Nikon ... taken at 50mm, 1200mm and 1700mm ... subjects are over 130 meters away.

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Wireless Triggers with speed light and strobe

Hey all. I am just starting out with strobes and was wondering if you could recommend a wireless trigger for my set up.

I currently own a Pocket Wizard Transmitter and Receiver but they are expensive. I have been using it for a few years now to trigger my off camera speed light (430 exII). Now I am adding a strobe to the mix (Alien Bee 1600) and was wondering if I should go with the CyberSyncs?

Thanks 8)

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Batteries or Charger fault?

Hi all!
Need a bit of advice please on my battery/charger situation.

When charging my 2 batteries [40d], the charger goes through all the light blinking i.e. 1 blink, 2 blinks, 3 blinks then continuous.
It does this in about 20mins which seems a bit quick and then when I put them in the camera they display as full for a minute then drop to 'low'.
I'm wondering if anybody knows what is happening? I'm thinking it's the charger not charging properly since this is happening on both batteries but they are the same age and getting on bit [6 years], maybe they lost their charge?
I can't test them out on anyone else's gear because they have different batteries for their bodies.

Anyway thanks in advance

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Should I upgrade to FF or invest in lenses instead?

With Canon's release of the 6D last September, I have been wrestling with the notion of upgrading from my 60D to the 6D. However, I just can't seem to make up my mind on whether an investment in lenses would make better sense. On one hand I am wanting the benefit of higher image quality, better bokeh and the ability to shoot at higher ISOs with FF. On the other hand, I also see that a couple of new lenses would allow me more opportunities for creative expression that I have now. I primarily shoot Macro (180mm 3.5L and 100mm 2.8 USM with twin 430EXIIs or twin 270EXIIs on a Manfrotto macro flash bracket) and I also shoot outdoor landscapes as well as a few of family and pets. I shoot almost exclusively for prints (5 X 7 to 11 X 14). I'm also looking at a 70-200 2.8 from Sigma or the new Tamron and also a wide lens to fill in the void I have now.

So what should I do? I am thinking of selling my 60D/18-135, 55-250 and battery grip to put toward the 6D with 24-105 lens, or keep what I've got and add a 70-200 2.8 and maybe a 10-22. I also have a 70-300 4.0/5.6, 50mm 1.8 along with the two macro lenses.

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