I just paired my Canon T1i with the new Sigma 35 1.4. I use my flawless 100 2.0 and 200 2.8 for indoor and outdoor sports with massive success.
The 35mm Sigma has similar color and contrast of my 30 1.4, but is sharper so I think I made a good move. So far I have some stunners and use it/plan on using it for everything other than sports - family, travel, landscape, flowers, etc.
Especially in light of our pending big trip to Alaska would an UWA (which I have no experience with) be an important addition? I imagine that might be nice for sweeping landscapes and buildings up close both inside and out (in some cases), but do some do well with nothing but a 35mm (50+ equivalent on a crop)?
Thanks.

Hi there, I am new to forums so go easy on me.

I started photography as a hobby a few years ago and have been learning new things ever since.
My first setup was a Canon 600D with the standard lenses...i also got a canon 50mm, and just before christmas i purchased the Sigma 8-16mm, which i am very impressed with.

Last week i ordered in my new setup- Canon 5D mk iii, with the canon 24-70mm. I am still awaiting its arrival, and cant wait to start learning how to use it!

I have been doing a bit of research into which other lenses i should purchase...I mainly shoot Landscape, and getting the hang of Astrophotography.

Any help or ideas in which lenses i should purchase would be greatly appreciated.

cheers!

I am going to Denver for storm chaser convention this week. I set aside a couple of days for shooting with my new 6D and 16-35 f2.8L and need advice for good shooting locations. I'd love to shoot the skyline with the mountains in the background and any other cool mountain scenes. Any advice? Thanks...

Ladies, Gentlemen

I need some help with a decision. I'm an Amateur using Canon cameras since the Age of the EOS 600 RT und currently use the 60D. Depending on the trips I do I usually carry 2 to 4 lenses with me. My minimum configuration is usually the Sigma 17-50 1:2.8 OS HSM and the Sigma 50-150 1:2.8 HSM. Depending if more wide or more reach is required I add the Tokina 11-16 1:2.8 or on the other extreme the Sigma 120-300 1:2.8 HSM. My Kids have reached the age where I can not only use their free luggage when entering the plane but also make them carry a lens around so I this time I’m flexible for a one month Thailand/China trip.

My issue is that all my Sigma lenses seem to be way too weak for the stress I put them through. With the exemption of the Sigma 50-150 1:2.8 HSM (Which is from handling and Feeling the nicest piece of crop lense I ever owned) 5 of my 7 Sigma lenses had gone into issues with the zooming mechanism. Cost just a few bucks on the 17-50 but was a pain with the 120-300. Of course A 17-50 which locks in 17mm because it doesn’t like the rough ride in a Chinese Coach while being in a proper lens bag does not increase my trust in Sigma for the future.

I have ordered but not received yet a used 16-35 1:2.8L and a 24-70 1:2,8L both the old Version with the 72mm filter. Taking These two with me on the trip means to swap the compact but lousy build 17-50 and it's IS against heavy metal and a little bit more reach but occupying 2 Slots in my camera bag.

From my live in the analog age I have left the 135 1:2.0L and the 200 1:2.8L

I need to have some reach with me on my trip. So my third lens could either be one of the two primes above or I could go in Beijing into Wukesong Camera city and shop at the myriad of used equipment sellers for the usual suspects like the 70-200 IS either in the 1:2.8 or 1:4.0 Version.

I have no experience what it means to carry the 16-35, the 28-70 and one of the 70-200 a few days through Chinas summer. Shall I go for one of my primes or buy a zoom? (I usually have some Budget for new (old) gear when I go on a trip so the fact if I spent money or not is not the most important)

Every advice is welcome of course especially from those who think outside the box.
If you think the complete lot of the gear is wrongly chosen then please suggest something different.

I am wondering why Canon put this sensor into 6d - the 5d3 seems to have the 22mp count because it's a multiple of 1080p and produces less moiré when downsizing to video resolution.

Is there any reason for the the way the 6d sensor is *except* marketing, i.e. keeping the tech spec even below the 5d2's 21mp? Maybe Canon gains a significant production advantage like less sensor waste for 6d and such is able to lower the price? Or is there any video- or stills-shooting related reason except that a little larger pixels produce a little less noise?

Compost in the Stairwell.

7D, ISO 400, 1/160. EF 85 1.8, @ f/1.8. Available light, no flash.

I left for lunch and this was sitting on a half-wall in the stairwell. I came back from lunch and it was still there. It was just so strikingly out of place... And I had my camera so I couldn't resist.

I would love feedback as to things I could try with light next time someone leaves fruit refuse lying around, or post processing techniques (this is SOOC), I will post a RAW file tonight if anyone wants to download one to give some examples of what you'd do... or, if you think photographing oxidized fruit is stupid, feel free to share that too.

Hi, I am a former canon 5dII with a 24-70 user. About 2 plus years ago I sold all my canon gear and bought into micro 4/3's I recently decided I wanted to move back to using dslr and will sell off my m4/3's gear. With recent price drops, I picked up a 60d for 699.00.

Here's where I need your help. I am so undecided on lens selection with the crop factor. I love shooting wide to sometimes ultra wide. I picked up for the time being the 40 2.8 just to play around with because it was so cheap. Not a bad lens for 150.00, only problem is I find it a little long for my liking.

Here's what I was thinking and here's where I really need you help. I was thinking on getting the 10-22 for UWA to wide and also getting the 17-40 for my day to day walking around. Do these two lenses overlap to much, am I better off getting the 10-22 with either the 24 usm is or the 28 1.8. I feel the primes are not that wide on the crop body. What are your thoughts and your recommendations.

I also shoot macros and will get the 60macro and for the long end for when I need it will get either the 70-200 f4 usm is or the 70-300 usm is.

Thanks for your help,
Anthony

Hi,

I'm looking to upgrade my camera gear in the next month or so and want to know your thoughts on my upgrade plan.

I started years ago with a film Rebel with a 28-80 EF kit lens and a 70-300 EF (no image stabilization on either one) and upgraded to a Digital Rebel XT body in 2005.

This camera has served me well, and I have abused it well. I've had it to the beach many times (blowing sand/salt water splashes), waterfall shots (water splashing again), hiking in the rain/snow, no weather protection during these trips. Fell in a river once with it, completely drenched it. the coating has mostly warn off the hand grip due to using sunscreen on my hands for most of my hikes. And it's taken it all in stride, but I always felt that I couldn't get wide enough with my shots.

I do a lot of hiking and really felt I wasn't able to capture the landscapes/vista the way I wanted to. We had our first child in 2006 and our second in 2009 so there was no money for any kind of lens purchase for awhile. The 28-80 EF lens finally died last fall (grinding noise while focusing) and I picked up a 18-55 EF-S lens (got it for $90 on a local classifieds site).

So now the crop factor problem is lessened, but still not enough, I want wider and I've come to want extra features that my XT can't do, like liveview, video, more and better focus points, some weather sealing, rugged etc...

I've been reading and searching through the forums for a few months now and avidly reading the rumors on any new bodies that are supposedly coming (7DMII) and have already come (6D).

As many have said before: I would love a 5d mark III, but that's completely out of my budget. The 6D is also nice, I would use the GPS feature for my hiking trips and the Full Frame is something I really want. But, I also have 2 kids (age 7 and 3) and I want something that will be as useful with the landscape shots as it will with kids running and playing. Also I would probably have to wait till the end of the year to save enough to buy a 6D/lens kit. And I want something before my spring/summer hiking trips start. This is also a problem with waiting for a 7DMII that is not here yet, also the fact the price is probably going to be more then my budget will allow.

So, I've settled for now on buying a used Canon 7D ($850) and a used Canon 10-22 EF-S ($600) to go with my 18-55 EF-S and 70-300 EF. With Tax that will max out my current camera savings (and I may have to throw a bit on top to make it actually fit the budget).

I'm hoping this will put me on a good path to enhance my photos and also give me the opportunity to improve my photography skills over he next few years, until I can afford a used 5D Mark III and some lenses at some point.

So what do you think? Will it fit my needs, will it be a good upgrade for the cost? or should I hold off and see what happens to the price of the 7D, if a 7DMII is announced in the next couple of months?

Thanks, here's a small sample of some of the photos I take if that helps.

Transmission tower by C.C. Yanku, on Flickr

Black Crowned Crane by C.C. Yanku, on Flickr


Elegant butterfly by C.C. Yanku, on Flickr


The beauty of nature by C.C. Yanku, on Flickr

Chinese New Year (Year of the snake) in Amsterdam by C.C. Yanku, on Flickr


Man smoking pipe by C.C. Yanku, on Flickr


French lady hitting the streets of Amsterdam with an beautiful voice and smile by C.C. Yanku, on Flickr

Comments, questions, critique and tips are all welcome !


French lady hitting the streets of Amsterdam with an beautiful voice and smile by C.C. Yanku, on Flickr


Elegant butterfly by C.C. Yanku, on Flickr

Does anyone know if the battery from the 1D IV will work on the 1D X?

About a year ago I was at a professional sporting event and noticed that the Pro shooters were using PWII to fire the stadium strobes. Having a chance to revisit the stadium this weekend I thought that I would throw a PWII into my pocket to see if I could find the channel the Pros were using and fire the strobes from my camera roughly 15 rows up. Low and behold they were using a default channel and while being considerate I did fire off a few shots. From scanning around the stadium I could only find two shooters with PWII - all others were shooting flash free.

So my question is - legally could you get into trouble triggering these units? I know that ethicly no one should be using them with out permission.

Anyone here a stadium pro and have any experience with unauthorized use of strobes?

I asked Canon Germany at facebook if some new products will come out at the coming events. They said they´ll update the website. They updatet quickly but for CeBit there is no more information about what is going to be showed. Do you think a new camera is announced?

I plugged one in to my new 600EX-RT flash but can't seem to trigger it. Is there a certain mode I have to be work? It works fine on my old 580EXII.

Pic of my son training and having some fun

Hello! if anybody help me for the issue, I would very appreciate...!

I bought Canon 6D with TamronSP24-70mm f2.8. I use ScanDisk extreme pro, UHS-I, 32GB, 95mb/sec.

I have a problem for shooting video. The camera stops recording videos all most any condition.
I've written down some details>>

Set All-i 25P (buttery low)

1. Could shoot more than 1 min
2. After 51 sec: Start making little sound while shooting and Movie recording stopped automatically
3. After 21 sec: Movie recording stopped automatically
4. After 44 sec: Movie recording stopped automatically
5. Could shoot more than 1 min
6. After 41sec: Movie recording stopped automatically and Err message: Err card cannot be accessed.

Re-insert the card

7. 2 min 22sec : Movie recording stopped automatically, Err message: Err card cannot be accessed.
8. After 12 sec: Movie recording stopped automatically

Format card & Charged buttery 100%

1. 00:23 Movie recording stopped automatically
2. 00:06 Movie recording stopped automatically

Change to All-i 24P
00:28 sec Movie recording stopped automatically

Change to All-i 1280 25p
00:23 Movie recording stopped automatically

Changed to 1980 IPB 25p

Record more than 2 mins but it buffers in the middle, with the grey scale appears on the right top corner of LCD screen.
Also the buttery doesn't hold so good. I cannot use same buttery more than 4 hours of photo shooting. Is it normal?

If someone has similar experience or knows solution, could you please advise me?

Thank you!

Tosh

I'm about to buy the Heliopan 2093 nd filter with 3.0 density. The manufacturer states (German: http://www.heliopan.de/produkte/graufilter.shtml) that this density produces a warm color cast that can be removed by "adding a Heliopan UV/IR filter in front of the ND filter".

Now I'm confused: a) all I find are UV *or* IR filters, what is the manufacturer talking about and b) does this work & is it necessary or is it trivial to remove the warm color cast in postprocessing?

Thanks!

While I was taking a walk the other day I met a guy with two 1Dx, lenses and wireless transfer thing. I stopped and chatted with him and learned that he works for one of these news agencies. After talking for a while he mentions that he has programmed a panic button on his 1Dx, a button that is preset with aperture 8 (I think), ISO 6400, and shutter speed of 1/500?.. Not sure if I recall the settings correctly, but he told me that rather being stuck/or forgetting that he was in a meny, when he HAD to get the shot, he could just push this button and be certain to get the shot. I also believe that it was programmed for 12 frames per second.

A smart idea in my opinion.

Anyone heard about this kind of programming?

Is moire that bad of a problem or is it more of a Pro's "OCD" type of thing.
I'm close to investing in a 6D for video, well aware of the Moire issues, but people tell me to save for the Mk III.
My question is, is the moire difference enough to justify the extra $$$?
I planned on getting an L glass with the money I saved getting a 6D.
Also, is the moire worse than a 5D MkII's?

Just a friendly question here. Has anyone ever done post-processing of photos and thought they looked good and they looked the way you wanted them to look, only to go back say, a week or two later, and think that is awful, what was I doing? For instance I had a series of photos that I thought were exposed correctly and looked good to my eye as I was doing it. Then about 2 weeks later I looked at them again and thought, these aren't bright enough. This happens time to time and I wonder if it has to do with staring at a computer screen for long periods post-processing and then going back "fresh." Just a fun question I thought I would pose.

Hey all,

So I do a lot of small product photography, mostly with a 100mm f/2.8 macro on a 7D and a 5D mkII.

My goal is always to get the largest image in the frame, with the MOST depth of field- I know, this is probably the first thread where someone actually wants more DOF! Lots of bokeh junkies here. Me too

Anyways, I've been looking into the 90mm TS-E. Anyone here have any experience with it and product photography? I've never used a tilt-shift lens. I know (from research) it actually doesn't give more DOF but you can control it as a "wedge" of focus that is a different angle from the sensor plane. So will it help in getting more of the product in focus? Sometimes even at small apertures, up close, I can't get all of the product in focus.

Sometimes I need to photograph flat items (like a board game), but on an angle. I don't want to focus stack and combine in post- don't have time for that anymore.

Thoughts?

Just wanted to share some pictures I took on a recent safari ( in Botswana), The camera i used had only 4fps, so there was a great deal of luck in some of the shots

http://www.apophoto.com/

is where they are located

Hope you can appreciate some of them

if i use AF extension tubes + 70-200mm IS USM will the IS still works ?