So here is an expert question: I'm looking to potentially get new triggers at some point that need to work with a 580EXII and a bunch of 430EXIIs. I'd be looking at ETTL triggers first - not because I want the actual TTL functionality but because I want to be able to set the output manually in camera. More than three groups would be great. So as nice and sturdy as the Pocket Wizard Plus III look they won't do any of that. All other PW models seem rather old at this point and the're suffering from a few issues (price being one of them).
Phottix Odin would be the next logical alternative. Or whatever Pixel King comes up with next or Yongnuo, whatever.

But here's the question now: it appears that most or all (?) of these models make the Canon speedlites still put out a pre-flash even when set to manual. That would stink when combining things with studio flash or lightmeters. So is this a design flaw in those Chinese triggers or is this per Canon design? Do PWs do this also - do they even allow for manual settings?

In the film years, when camera bodies were changed with far less frequency, i used to love the holder for your tab off the film box, just to remind you of your speed and colour etc.

The film was kind of the subconscious signal of intent. A zenit loaded with k64 meant more than an fm loaded with gold...

If ever I saw a velvia, delta or tmax label I would be quite interested in what they were up to. Regardless of the camera body spec or cost.

I wonder what the digital equivalence is? ...

Good shots aside? What marks out an impoverished artisan from a souless gearhead?

An eyecup? A spirit level? A handmade camera strap? An adapted manual lens?

Thoughts please. Aside from white lenses what else makes you think.. "they are obviously quite into it" when you meet a fellow tog on your travels?

Curious. Was thinking of getting one, and maybe the YN 622C. Specific comments on the exact matchup, or even comments on any of the specific pieces. Thanks!

1st world problem, well not really a problem. Why does Canon ask us to align there lens hoods with the red dot on the lens and then rotate, when the hood is in the stop position the writing on the hood is facing down. Now I know you can position the hood differently so the writing will be at the top, but Canon prefer it was on the bottom. Why? ???

After getting a 21mm Zeiss that has a hard stop for infinity that is spot on too, I'm wondering how that still works with bitter temps. Seems most of the lenses I've had the infinity changes a good bit if the lens gets really cold. Last night for example the infinity on the Samyang 14mm seemed to be clear at the very edge, while warmer times it seemed it was definitely on the other side of the infinity line. Guess I'm not sure what I'm wondering exactly. Just what others have seen. Some lenses must be designed differently that it's not as big of an issue. First impressions is that it's not budging on the Zeiss.

I have a question regarding zoom lenses that change their physical length, such as 24-105L, 70-300L etc, and the potential for them to ingest dust, pollen etc into both the camera body and themselves by sucking and blowing air in and out.

Is this a fact ?

If this is the case I am puzzled as to why when fitting a weather sealed zoom of this type onto a weather sealed body you don't have problems in zooming the lens outwards against a vacuum that would be created in the body.
Now I know that weather sealed doesn't mean airtight, but even so I would expect resistance when trying to zoom in or out quickly as the air tries to pass the weather sealing gaskets.

Can anyone explain

Mothers estate finally came through. approx 10mins after I got the money I'm driving to my local train station, heading south to buy a new 300 prime. Anyway in the shop, guy says fancy a 1DX? No, need reach, it's a bit short. " Fancy borrowing one for a couple of days, costs nothing, use it, don't like it bring it back, no cost he says. Stupid thing is I bloody well said no! Am I a total idiot? Free for a couple of days, no cost. Great marketing thing I thought, try before you buy. Anyway, needed to post my moment of complete and utter insanity. That said, I might go back after Xmas, they are getting an almost new used one in. I wanted to ask you x owners, he spoke of the x having a setting where if you focus on a particular spot, press the shutter button half way, a bird flys in from left of field, the camera can be set to jump to the bird, focus on it and run off a load of raw images. If true that is utterly amazing. Also, how good is the autofocus compared to my mk4? Is it really that much better? Im talking birds in flight stuff.
And is the 24-70 really that good as its the final piece in my lens jigsaw and I won't buy unless owners who have one, used it and tell me it really is a big step up from my old 24-105.


thanks and merry Xmas to all

mick

Hello folks, Im new to dslr & have purchased a couple of 60D's, Ive been getting some good tutorials on youtube & am now ok with most the camera settings iso / fps shutter etc but have one problem! When I do a pan the footage seems to so stutter slightly on playback, Ive posted this very short clip to you tube. The problem I have is very noticeable when passing the windows as you will see, any help would be appreciated. Im using the latest (magic lantern) as such it gives a info file details of which ive also posted below. Thank you

MVI 0647

info txt:
# Magic Lantern v2.3.60D.111

Start : 2010/01/18 19:30:16
Lens name : EF50mm f/1.8 II
ISO : 640 = yes I know this was a little to high could this be the problem ?
Shutter : 1/152.439s
Aperture : f/5.6
Focal length : 50 mm
Focus distance : 0 mm
White Balance : 2 - Cloudy, Magenta 0, Blue 0
Picture Style : Standard (3,0,0,0)
FPS : 25.000
Bit Rate (CBR) : 1.0x

CSV data:
Time,ISO,Shutter,Aperture,Focal_Len,Focus_Dist
19:30:16,640,150,5.6,50,0

As I have 3x origional 5d bodies which work well for my wedding photog buisness, I need to replace a 580ex flash & would like to use the new 600ex, it will be only used on the hotshoe but I am wondering if 200th flash sync & TTL ext still function as normal. This way when I update to Mk3 ext the flash will be able to be more compatable.

any advise is appreciated. I have looked online but all threads seem to refer to 5dMk2 / 600ex function compatability. Cheers Pete

Seems the legend is no longer produced. Get them while you can!

fantastic new video recorded by Richard Walch, enjoy!

Canon EOS 6D - Iceland by Richard Walch

hey guys can you solve this problem..please.. when me off the camera its still can took a picture and so on...

So I'll be shooting a couple weddings in March and I'm starting to think about gear for it. While the wedding I did in early December was with two full frame cameras, my wife was one of the brides maids so I was able to have both cameras with me with one having my 24-105 and the other a rented 70-200. My question is this. Do I need to rent a normal range zoom to make sure I don't miss shots? I'll give my wife the 24-105 so I'll at least have some fall back there. I normally use the 70-200 for most of the ceremony and a good part of the reception as well. The main things I'm thinking of are the cake cutting and wide shots of people dancing where you need something wide. My thoughts are either #1, use my 40 2.8 lens for this. I always have a hard time using this lens just cause of it's low price yet it's a very nice lens so maybe it's just in my head and that would a good option. The other possibility would be to rent the Canon 35 1.4 like I did for this last wedding and have that for my wider angle option. I'm only wanting to rent one wide aperture lens though and I'm trying to decide between this and the Sigma 85 1.4. Now one other thing that factors in and is part the reason I'm wondering if I can get by without renting a normal range zoom is I also still have my 50D which I can either have ready to go with my Sigma 10-20 or Tamron 17-50 as a backup as well. Full frame is obviously a lot nicer though so I wouldn't want to be using it more than I'm using the full frame or else what's the purpose in renting the full frame camera then? So any thoughts on this? Thanks

Good day guys, well I just had this terrible error on my 1dx (latest firmware).

Mainly I went from one gig to another - camera was off....(attached to my 24-70 f2.8II)

I reached the new location, put the camera "on" and I was not able to achieve focus at all...
tried in my usually working custom functions C1, C2 C3...then tested in Ai Servo and One shot...nothing..

There was enough light so have 1/250 f4 @ ISO 800...so dim light was not an issue...

Anyhow...nothing was working.
As a certain point I decided to go in the "one shot" priority setting and put it to release...and camera started to work normally again.
Anyone has experienced this? Any idea?....I'm just plan discouraged tonight...the 1dx focus is haunting
regards

For those who get Popular Photography magazine, their camera of the year is the 5d3. Yes, it beat out the Nikon D800 and the Sony A99. Goes to show that a camera is more than just the DxO ratings.

Here is a link to the article about it:
http://www.popphoto.com/gear/2012/12/2012-camera-year-canon-eos-5d-mark-iii

All of these shots are different panoramas I took this past year here in Detroit. The smallest one is over 40 Mpix.









Commentary is quite welcomed!

Ron Gage

Hi guys !
I am new to this forum, as well as the Canon system altogether. I recently bought a 5D Mark II.
I am planning to buy the TS-E 24mm II lens, since it's considered to be one of the best among Canon lens and I am very excited to have the tilt/shift/rotating ability.
I will do mostly architectural work, but in my case it often means also using longer focal lenghts (for some detail and creative perspective of the geometry of buildings). On my APS-C camera (Pentax) I like to use 40-55mm. That means I should get closer to 60mm on a FF lens (1.5x crop factor).
I was thinking about buying the lens and a Canon TC 2x Extender, giving me 48mm equivalent which becomes more useful than 1.4x=35mm. I've read forums through and through and the consensus seems to be that with this lens "1.4x gives very good results and 2x is worse". But I struggle to find any real world pictures of that combo (only a chart http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=486&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=4&API=2&LensComp=486&CameraComp=453&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=1 )
Bottom line:
Can anyone give feedback and example pics on TS-E 24mm II + 2x Mk III Extender ?
Thank you guys!

I just bought a 5D3 - upgrading from a 7D. I need a good walk around lens to put on it. I take lots of low light pictures. Image stabilization is nice, but not that important to me. The extra stop in very important. Money is also a big factor in the purchase. I can't bring myself to pay the ridiculous price for the Canon 24-70 II. Whatever you may say about the quality - it's just too expensive. That brings me down to a choice of two lenses - the Tamron 24-70 f/2.8 or Canon 24-105 f/4.

Yes - I have tried out both lenses, shooting a few shots in a store, but never handling one on a long term basis. The 24-105 is a great lens, but I hesitate because I would really use the wider aperture in a 2.8 lens. The Tamron - I've tried two copies. One was awesome, one was terrible. The AF was fast in one, almost broken in the other. It was slow and shook right before it locked on. The picture was sharp in one and soft in the other. This scared me, but if the one was just a bad copy, and I ended up with a good copy, well maybe it would be better than the Canon lens.

This question was asked on this forum a couple times already and most responses were comments such as "Canon lenses are better because they have 'Canon' written on them," or "get this other lens that you didn't ask about."

Seriously... between these two lenses - from people who have shot with both of them, what would you recommend, considering the build quality, sharpness, resale value, long term reliability, etc. ? And of course there's the aperture thing.

Thanks in advance...

Forgive my ignorance but here is my question:

If I take a picture with a FF and crop it in Aperture to the same frame size as I would have with a 1.6 ASPC would the resolution /print quality still be the same?

Thanks in advance.

A couple of questions:

1) What are some reputable landscape photography competitions out there that are worth entering?

2) what are your thoughts on submitting photos to online competitions? Are you concerned that they claim the right to display your photos or use them in some other way for their benefit without direct compensation to you?

Thanks for any input.

Folks,
Happoy Holidays,
There is no specific catagory for my question on this forum so third party manufacturer is nearest thing to my question. A question came to me, someone has about 150 boxes of processed negatives of color films, I know that black and white films use silver and may have some value but wondering if there is any value to those processed color negatives. Thank you very much in advance for your input.
Raj

Hi,

I would like to know your thoughts on aquiring a new lens for my 600d.
With the lens I would like to do some low light and strob photos, also but not that much street. It should be also useful for video (manual focus capability).
I would like to have some nice sharp images and a nice oof background. What would you recomend?
I also considered the Samyang 85mm 1.4 but I really do not know how is it to focus on a 600d with the stock focus screening, which I am not willing to replace.
I know 50 and 85 are quite different focal lenghts and actually I already have the sigma 17 50, which makes me quite happy, but sometime the f 2,8 does not deliver the oof I wish.

Thank you for your advices.

I'm writing this post mainly to criticize Canon for it's recent outrageous pricing policies, and to simply say that they cannot keep doing what they are doing.

I was one of the first people to support Canon's new higher pricing due to the yen/dollar conversion, which in a way justified it, but now Canon seems to be actively trying to destabilize the market for their gear and alienate all of their customers.

The specific issue I am talking about are the huge price cuts and markups on their older and newer bodies.

Let's talk the last 3 months because this is the most relevant time frame.

3 months ago, buying a new 5D Mark III for $3400 was a bargain, and buying a new 5D Mark II for $2050 was a bargain, and buying a T4i for $750 was a bargain. So I got my 5DIII & 5D II (but waited on the t4i)

How much are these cameras worth 3 months later? $2500, $1300, & $480, and I picked up a new T4i for $480 today.

That's $1920. Gone in 3 months. In depreciation. On $6000 of cameras.

Let's compare Nikon on the other hand. 3 months ago, the D800 new for $2800 was a bargain, now it's a bargain for $2450. With the Nikon D700, 3 months ago it went for $1650, now it's $1550, the D7000 went for $860, 3 months ago and now it's $780.

That's only $520 in depreciation. Which is nearly 4 times less than $1920.

Wow.

This means I could theoretically own nearly 12 Nikon bodies for what it costs to own 3 Canon ones with their new insane mark ups and mark downs.

Why is Canon seemingly actively screwing over it's buyers with insane price cuts, and equally insane introductory mark ups? The only reason I can come up with is that they want to lose customers and lose credibility.

Considering this insanity, I just don't feel comfortable buying any Canon gear any more. Based on this trend, the 24-70mm Mark II should hit $1600 by March, and then it's perfectly believable that when the 24-70mm f/4.0 IS Macro comes out, the 24-105mm which now sells for $750 will be sold for $520 within weeks or months from now. The 35mm f/2.0 IS which I was also interested in which goes for $849.99 now should go for $499 in March as well.

Canon may think themselves smart for playing pricing games, but they are trading brand loyalty and credibility for profit, which is not a sustainable strategy in the long run.

Has anyone been able to pair their 6D with a mac running Mountain Lion over Wi-Fi? I can't seem to get it to work and this time, I actually read the manual. This isn't a must have for me, but I thought I would try it for fun. Now I'm just frustrated. I can't tell if the WFTPairing software is actually running or not.
I would appreciate any help.
Thanks.