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EOS-1D X Firmware 1.2.1 in the Wild

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<p><strong>New firmware for the EOS-1D X coming?

</strong>We’re getting various reports that serviced Canon EOS-1D Xs are coming back from service with firmware 1.2.1 installed.</p>
<p>There is no breakdown of what has been fixed or added to the camera, but I do expect to see an official release soon.</p>
<div id="attachment_12726" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 441px"><a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/13201428nf.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-12726" alt="Firmware 1.2.1 installed | Image via dslr-forum.de" src="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/13201428nf-431x575.jpg" width="431" height="575" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Firmware 1.2.1 installed | Image via dslr-forum.de</p></div>
<p><em><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/827036-REG/Canon_5253B002_EOS_1D_X_EOS_Digital.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">Canon EOS-1D X at B&H Photo for $6728 (Plus $446 in extras)</a></em></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

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anyone used transcend 1000x CF cards?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Transcend-32GB-CF-Compact-Flash-Card-1000X-Ultra-DMA-Mode-/400373032112?pt=AU_Electronics_Memory_Cards&hash=item5d3817a4b0

Anyone used these yet?
I have been using transcend 400x and 600x cards for ages now and have a dozen or so and never had a problem with any of them, just wondering if anyone have used these new 1000x ones yet and if they are any good

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5D3 Multiple exposure seemed so simple, main subject too transparent

Title pretty much sets the stage. I was so excited to try this feature. I have tried it in "additive" as well as "average" mode, changed iso, shutter speed, aperture and in every test the primary subject (in my case the subject that moved with each frame) comes out quite ghostly or transparent in the final composite.

While I might want this effect some times, in this case I do not. I have read and re-read the manual and I am stumped. Sorry if the obvious answer is eluding me

Cheers,

David

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70-200 f/2.8L IS II Problem

Hello,

As a long time reader and first time poster, I would like to thank the many who contribute to this forum. My technical knowledge and applied skills have greatly increased since reading this forum.

Now, I am seeking advice on how to deal with a recent problem that I have encountered. I purchased a EF 70-200 f/2.8 IS II three weeks ago. As soon as it arrived, my excitement quickly turned to concern when I noticed something of a blemish on one of the elements (the element just before the front element). I am not certain as to what it is. It could be dust or a scratch, but my untrained eye is unable to tell.

What course of action would you recommend? I have not registered the warranty. I pondered this and decided to hold off in the event that I should send it back and request a different copy.

Any insight is appreciated.

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6D kit with 24-105 F4L for $2499 at Amazon

I just ordered mine and I cannot wait to get it!!! I think this is a steal.

Some questions...

How is this lens @24mm wide open and stopped down to f8 or so? I am a storm chaser and need the wide end to look good. I need my wide lens to be good in low light and in bright light.

How is the Canon 35mm f2 on a full frame?

What is a good ultra-wide third party lens for a full frame? I simply cannot afford the 14 f1.4L II right now.

Get your 6D kit while the price is low and thanks for your advice...

Chris

Edited to change the lens that I cannot afford now. ;)

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1 Billion Pictures per Second

http://www.golem.de/1112/88379.html

do you know this already, I found it very interesting,

I´m not a very logical thinking type of person, and I can´t explain if a Camera can record 12fps, only in full light or also in a disco. As far as I know the fps needs the shutterspeed therefore it can only work in full light, so but whats in a hall when you take pictures from a prom (Maturaball in german) the shutterspeed automatically turns longer, but than you can´t record 12 Images per second.

I question this because I had an EOS 400D which made 3fps and with that i recorded some Neonlights in a disco which ran around the dancefloor, because i loved how it run threw there and liked to make a Gif Animation, now 3fps isn´t much and the shutterspeed don´t must be as high as by 7fps I haven´t tried it yet with a 7D in that disco, but for my opinion the pictures must be darker than with 3fps and so also the 1DX have to have a slower shutterspeed in disco by 12fps when i won´t change the iso.

So I´ve searched for an answer how long the minimum shutterspeed for 12fps is, typed in google and the first link what hit my ey was the link above. Sorry it is in german, but Video is English

Hope you know what I mean and don´t tease me if i´m wrong

Sorry for my bad english also that link is in german, and I hope I don´t make a mistake when posting this in that section or posting it by the way

With friendly regards

Colin

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Opinion on upgrades

I currently shoot with a T3i, and 75% of the time a 50mm 1.4. I also have the 50mm 1.8/18-55 kit lens/Canon EF 55-200mm f/4.5-5.6. Of those, I only really reach for the kit lens for the zoom capacity, and the 1.8 as backup.

I am heavily considering the 17-40mm f/4L as my next lens purchase. Additionally, I am looking to upgrade the body itself. I am torn between a higher level but still cropped sensor (like the 7d), which would allow me to keep on my nifty fifty without dishing out an extra grand for the 1.2. But when I see the image quality of cameras like the 5d mark ii, it really makes me rethink. Do I need to take the plunge? Would the 50mm 1.4 really be too soft for the full frame? I occasionally feel like the reason the T3i has decent quality is because it's a newer body and therefore I wonder if the jump to a higher level cropped sensor is even really worth it. It can still take impressive quality images (in my opinion):
7801708740_b79e1a8f40_b.jpg

But I am looking for more. Ultimately, I am after the best image quality for the best bargain there is. I mostly shoot outdoors/95% of the time never use flash.

If anyone would be willing to offer advice (specifically, models) out of that jumble I would greatly appreciate it!

Images not showing - Broken image icon

Hi,

Most of the images that are posted on the forums I can't see, it shows a broken image icon. I have tried different browsers on my laptop with no success as well as trying different computers. Some images do load but most of them I cannot see and I would like to see them.

If anyone knows of a way to fix this problem then let me know. Does anyone else have this problem? I did search the forums to see if a thread had already been created but couldn't find one and also when reading posts in forums I don't see people mentioning that they cannot see the images and that they do not load.

Thanks

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Grey (Gray) Market Advice

Hello All,
So I'm getting pretty close to buying my next lens, and have narrowed it down to the 85mm f/1.2L. Unfortunately, I missed out on the $1,799 deal amazon had around the holidays, but I noticed Adorama has the 85mm for $1,899 via "Grey Market". So my question is: does anyone have experience with purchasing Canon gear over the grey market, and would you recommend it (or vice versa)? It's a $100 difference, which would equate to a B+W filter I'd likely buy with it. Or are there any rumors about the price dropping to the vicinity of $1,799 again?

Thanks!

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Having fun with a couple of 100-years-old lenses

kodak_3g_1910.jpg


I've got a nice collection of very old cameras:
* Kodak 3 Folding Pocket Model G (USA, 1910)
* Kodak Vest Pocket (USA, 1913)
* Ernemann BOB OO (Germany, 1917)
* Kodak Retina 1 A (Germany, 1951)
* Taisei Koki Welmy SIX E (Japan, 1952)
* Kershaw King Penguin (England, 1953)

And I've done some lens whacking with a DSLR: you hold the lens in front of the camera, without attaching it, and shoot video like that, moving the lens forward and backards to focus, and tilting/shifting it by hand, letting light leak in through the sides, etc.

So, why not mix those two? I took the two cameras that will allow me to put my NEX-5N where the film usually goes (that would be the Kodak 3 G -pictured above- and the Ernemann BOB OO), took away the back side, and placed them safely on a bench or similar. Then I took my Sony NEX-5N, took the lens away, and manually held it inside the bellows camera, looking at the screen while moving around the NEX in order to get good focus and take a still.

You can see the results here:
http://www.similaar.com/foto/oldcam/oldcam.html

My take: they look so good that it doesn't even feel that they were shot with such old lenses! (specially the Kodak: click on the first image to see it at full resolution: that 100-years-old f/4 prime is surprisingly sharp!)

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Canon U.S.A. Raises Awareness About Counterfeit Accessories For Digital Cameras And Camcorders And P

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<p>Canon has started a new campaign to raise awareness about counterfit products.  The ones that affect most photographers are batteries and chargers. Unfortunately, they only give vague hints of things to check for when you suspect that you have a counnterfit product.  The main point is that you should buy from a established dealer.</p>
<p>There is a hotline setup to report issues with counterfit batteries.</p>
<p>In the USA, you can report any questionable sources or purchases to

<b>1-855-46-CANON</b>.</p>
<p><b>LAKE SUCCESS, N.Y., January 15, 2013</b> – Canon U.S.A., Inc., a leader in digital imaging solutions, has rolled out a consumer-safety initiative that will promote awareness of a consumer electronics industry-wide issue: the risks of using counterfeit accessories for digital cameras and camcorders, especially batteries and chargers. Counterfeit products are fake replicas of the real products, designed to take advantage of the superior value of the real product. These fake accessories are produced in a manner that is increasingly more difficult for average consumers to identify. Purchase of these products can lead to potentially dangerous results. Unlike genuine Canon products, counterfeit accessories may not meet government and industry safety standards and may overheat, smoke, melt, ignite and may cause bodily injury and property damage.</p>
<p>In support of this initiative, a digital campaign, with the tagline, “Play it safe. Power your Canon with Canon Power” was launched on January 8, advising consumers to avoid counterfeits by purchasing products through established retail channels. In addition, the Canon USA Website has been enlisted to educate consumers on the Canon batteries and chargers most frequently counterfeited and to provide helpful tips to spot them.</p>
<p>“Canon takes safety seriously and, as good corporate citizens, we want to inform and educate so that consumers are aware of the risks counterfeit products pose,” said Yuichi Ishizuka, executive vice president and general manager, Imaging Technologies & Communications Group, Canon U.S.A. “We will be rolling out an initiative over the next few months, encouraging consumers to help play it safe with genuine Canon power when making an investment in a camera or camcorder and its accessories, so that they may continue to enjoy the quality experience they expect from us.”</p>
<p>For more information, visit <a href="http://www.usa.canon.com/aboutcounterfeits" target="_self">www.usa.canon.com/aboutcounterfeits</a>.</p>

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24mm 35mm 70mm FoV

I own 35L and I love it. Recently I've started thinking about getting a 24-70 zoom , but I'm not sure it will give me results as my precious ;-)
If I wanted to simulate 24mm or 70mm with 35L (excluding possible compression or distortion @ 70 and 24mm respectively) how much should I step back or forward to get mentioned 24 and 70 mm focal lenghts' FoV?

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Exposure bracketing on Canon 6D ?

I'm getting ready to put an order in for the 6D kit now that the "special deal" is on again. One of my needs is for HDR processing, but it's not clear to me what the AEB capability is for the 6D and whether it's flexible and broad enough. Here is a copy of a section of the Canon specs - It appears that AEB is limited to 3 exposures in 1/3 to 1/2 stops (+/- 2.5 stops ??), while the last line mentions number of bracketed shots up to 7 ?? I'd like to over/underexpose up to +/- say, 4 or 5 in seven exposures - can I do that with AEB or must it be manual only ?
And, if by manual they mean user sets the exposure for each shot, why does item (1) limit the stops and increments ??

Exposure Compensation

(1) Manual : ±5 stops in 1/3- or 1/2-stop increments

(2) AEB : ±3 stops in 1/3- or 1/2-stop increments

* Manual exposure compensation and AEB can be combined.

* The AEB shooting sequence will be standard exposure, underexposure and overexposure. With the self-timer, three continuous shots will be taken regardless of the current drive mode.

* The number of bracketed shots: 2, 3, 5, or 7 settable with a Custom Function.

Thanks for any clarifying advice.

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Patent: Noise & Aliasing Reduction for Small Pixels

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<p><strong>A patent for APS-C?

</strong>Canon has filed a patent to reduce the noise and aliasing in small pixels.</p>
<p>This sort of patent could benefit higher megapixel APS-C cameras, like the EOS 7D Mark II.</p>
<p><strong>Source: [<a href="http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fegami.blog.so-net.ne.jp%2F&act=url" target="_blank">EG</a>]</strong></p>
<p><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/646908-REG/Canon_3814B004_EOS_7D_SLR_Digital.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank"><em>EOS 7D Body at B&H Photo for $1199</em></a></p>
<p> </p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

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7D vs 5D mk2 trade off?

So I've been offered a 5Dii used for £850 which is reasonable.

last month I sold my 60D and got a 5Diii.

Prior to that I'd been shooting weddings with a 7D & 60D and as they're essentially the same camera (crop & very similar iso performance (I am also aware that they are very different cameras)) and it was very comfortable. I'd have my 17-85mm on one and 28mm 1.8 on the other and that pretty much did me. I'd just stick the 10-24 on if I needed anything wider.

2 cameras, 2 lenses. job done.

so now I have this pair: 5Diii and 7D

I still want to shoot in very much the same style but with the increase in sensor size I'm at a loss and it messes with my head with all the focal length changes. I have a 50mm 1.4 which I love on the 5Diii and this would be my replacement for the 60D with the 28mm on.

so 60D with a 28mm is almost the same as 5Diii with a 50mm

but as the ISO performance is far superior on the 5Diii I'd want to use it with the 24-105mm especially on indoor shots where I can get away with using no flash. It's mean either still working with the 7D and a 28mm or having 1 camera (the 5Diii) and continually swapping lenses (pain in the arse)

First world problems... having to swap lenses mid job.

Is there much of a difference in quality between the 7D and the 5D mk2?

I've never shot with a 5D mk2 so I have no idea on how noisy it is at high ISO or what can be acceptable. I'd use it with the 50mm shooting around f2.2 so it wouldn't have to be that high and then use the mk3 for the 24-105mm at higher ISO. I work completely manually (apart from centre autofocus and recompose) as this is a bit of a hangover from the olden film days and I don't trust a camera to guess anything about my exposure.

is it worth selling my 7D for £850 with a grip, 17-85mm & 10-24mm tamron then buying a 5D mk2??? what would be the trade offs with regards to IQ??

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