I've had a Canon 7d for awhile now and I'm needing a new lens. So far here is what I have:

Tamron 18-270mm - I don't use very often but it's handy when I go on vacation
Canon 70-200mm f/2.8 L series lens - quite heavy
Canon 50mm f/1.4 - I really like this lens

I'm debating between getting either the Canon 17-55mm F/2.8 or the Tamron 24-70mm f/2.8. I do mostly outdoor portraits but I've got a 5 month baby girl that I take pictures of inside since it's getting cold out so I need something with a closer focal length.

Hello everyone!
I found at home on an old Tamron a filter by Hoya - SKYLIGHT 1B. I don't know this model, can anyone tell me it's story?
Isn't it a good filter for digital?

Thanks

For some reason the older I get, the more tolerant I am of abstract works. Must be mellowing in old age

Anyway, I was just messing about and thought there must be a market for giant "exclusive" prints of this stuff. Either go mass-market and sell zillions via Ikea or print out a couple of 8ft square whoppers to sell to Russian oligarchs for a few million a piece.

Just for fun, what do you think?

Hi all,

I'm a beginner to photography and pretty much self-taught. I'm just starting to get into portraiture and I find it very difficult to just learn it on my own. Unlike landscape photography which I think is very subjective, I find portraiture to have more objective fundamentals that I can't learn from looking at the photos unless a trained eye points it out to me. So, I need your opinion on which post processing do you prefer and why? Any other pointers is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

post processing 1

Lin_20121124_0004.jpg by Christian Ronnel, on Flickr

post processing 2

Lin_20121124_0005.jpg by Christian Ronnel, on Flickr

post processing 3

Lin_20121124_0006.jpg by Christian Ronnel, on Flickr

Do you think Canon would be better off by stopping over saturating their product line, I get so turned off with all the choices. I really wish they would just have four DSLR, all with the same sensor IQ or close. Lower and Higher ends of Crop and FF, mainly low FPS vs high FPS and have standard specs. I don't want to theorycraft but just saying.

P.S. No trolling but that Sony RX1 really really interests me for some reason. Yes I like an optical viewfinder and Canon in general but I really don't mind a fixed lens with a camera like that which looks like it takes amazing IQ photos. Any thoughts? Please don't try to troll me, I am just honestly asking.

Quick Bullet Post:

Current
Body: Canon T3i
Lens: Sigma 30mm F1.4
No Flash

Photo
Smugmug: http://jonfonts.smugmug.com/
Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/jlizfonts/

I am not a professional at all. I only started in July and even though people around me are saying I'm progressing pretty quickly, I feel like I still can't really get photos that appeal me and match my vision. Also with my lack of experience I have trouble picturing the shot sometimes. My favorite photos are the one of my girlfriend in my Flickr page.

Now, when it comes to having money in my account, it means I will spend it tomorrow >.< I am trying to save for a new lens. The ones I'm currently looking at is the 50mm F1.2 vs 85mm F1.2. Currently leaning towards the 50mm, and I know the 1.4 is cheaper, but I like to shoot at those wide apertures and hear that the 1.4 isn't sharp open, but if you can really convince me to get it instead please do.

The thing is that I want to get a FF camera as well, probably 5D3 just cause I like the more AF points as I HATE focus + recompose and I can't understand how so many people ONLY use the center point, it really doesn't make sense to me. So in a sense within a year I'm already thinking about spending about $5000 in new gear.

With my photos do you feel like it's a logical decision? I mean I don't mind taking a chance and spending money but I also want to be mature into this decision and ask you guys who many of you might of gone through this or have expert opinions about this. I know I need more experience but it would be nice in a sense to have better gear to motivate me, which I might really need since Minnesota gets so dark so early now.

Sorry bout the long winded post but I put a lot of energy into this hoping I would get the same in return. Also if you do recommend another lens, I would honestly like a prime better than a zoom only for the reason that I don't have to worry about deciding what focal length I should be on, I just want to get the exposure and shoot.

Btw, just incase I might go to hockey games this winter just so I can get SOME sport shots, it's like the only thing I feel like I can capture in the winter with my school and work schedule. I do like portraits and night time or indoor low light photography.


Thank you in advance!

Hey guys, I'm picking out the next telephoto zoom to upgrade to.
My question is, is the version ii going to have better image quality with converters.

Extra:
1. Would the version ii 70-200 work with version ii converters
2. Would the version ii converters work better with the 70-200 mark I
3. Is it important to purchase mark iii converters for the 70-200 ii

Has anyone tested out the Wi-Fi on the 6D shooting video using a remote device to control the camera?

I've seen mixed things about it here, one poster suggested that it's disabled based on a minor comment in the manual. And I couldn't find anything in the manual which indicated how to start and stop video, etc with the mobile app. There's one 'hands on' youtube clip that claims this works both in the comments and the guy at the trade show, but it's not demonstrated.

Of course this would be an incredibly useful feature, allowing use of an iPhone or better yet an iPad as an off-camera monitor and controller. With the EOS Utility of course you can control the video, and it looks like the mobile app is built very much the same way ... but I'd really like to hear from someone who has the camera in hand who can vouch for it being possible or not.

Thanks!

Sorry if this is a re-hash of an old topic; I was wondering what people general use for auto-focus points.
I have a 60D, and love to use my 50mm 1.4 and 85mm 1.8 for potraits and indoor photography. With most of my lenses I use the center point and recompose.
I know this isn't ideal with such a shallow depth of field. Especially when taking pictures of 3 or more people who are standing in a group, I find inevitable at least one person is out of focus.
Is there any value in selecting ALL autofocus points and letting the camera choose? is this better or worse when using one of the above lenses wide open, or stopped down to F2 or so?

thanks for your help!

http://www.extremeinstability.com/topic-14-21-50-lenses.htm

This isn't exactly a review or worthy of that title. Basically I recently went back to full frame and wound up with a Samyang 14mm, Zeiss 21 and Sigma 50 for new lenses for it. Before I settled there I had a 24L II and Canon 50 F1.4, and earlier in the year had a 14L II rented on a 5D III. I decided to make a page on my site noting a few things and reasoning on ending up where I did. Take from it what you will. Basically compared sharpness of the 1.4 and 1.8 Canon 50s to the Sigma 1.4. Then noted sharpness, vignetting and distortion on the Samyang and Zeiss.

I couldn't be happier with the Samyang 14 or the Zeiss(no duh on that one I guess). In the end I wish I had kept the Canon 50 F1.4. Sigma is sharper wide open but Canon quickly passes it even by F2.8. The Canon 24L II was great and sharp, but full frame coma was so bad beyond F2.8 it was sorta a lost cause opting for it for a fast night lens. Zeiss was wider like I wanted and no coma.

Most of the examples are gif animations too, for stopping down comparisons of sharpness, vignetting and distortion before and after fix.

It was never planned to do a review at all. Only later on with new different lenses I'd try and frame it like I had testing the others before.

Anyway, I now have these if something else was wanted done. Really just need to get the Samyang 14 out for night stars yet. The amount of vignetting at F2.8 I really haven't planned on using it much for that anyway.

With most of the threads about what's wrong with the 6d and what a €2000 camera doesn't do that a €3000 does, I'd like to assemble a (short?) comprehensive list of 6d characteristics that are positive and, if these are required, might make the 6d a good purchase after all over the 7d, 5d2 or even 5d3:

We all know that Nikon has more bang for the buck, and more expensive gear is "better". I also could rave about what Canon audaciously cut from the 6d. But that's not was this thread should be about.

So here's what I think (or assembled) vs. either 7d, 5d2 or 5d3:

• highest dynamic range vs 5d2/5d3 - see http://www.sensorgen.info/CanonEOS_6D.html
• visibly (vs 5d2) / slightly (vs 5d3) higher iso capability, esp. more usable iso12800+
• less banding = higher potential for shadow recovery (esp. vs. 5d2)
• center-point af up to -3lv (and probably no af assist lag like on 5d3?)
• more precise center af (vs 7d/5d2, much worse than 5d3 & 6d cannot use newer lenses' precision (lensrentals))
• silent shutter @3fps (same as 5d3)
• gps built-in (but w/o camera direction, thanks, Canon)
• wifi built-in and remote control via mobile device
• long battery life (1000+ shots, but of course w/o gps or wifi)
• exchangeable focusing screen for better mf with f2.8+ (vs. 5d3)
• large ff viewfinder (vs. crop)
• short release time (vs. 5d2, equal to 5d3)
• good metering & auto-wb (vs. 5d2, equal to 5d3/7d)
• hi-res lcd (vs. 5d2)
• top wheel lock (vs. 5d2)
• fast fps (vs. 5d2, but worse than 5d3/7d)
• newer firmware (vs. 5d2/7d):
  • full support for rt flashes,
  • in-camera multishot/hdr (but only jpg & no save source, thanks, Canon)
  • in-camera ca correction
  • 7x bracketing
  • dual afma for zooms
  • servo af customization
  • flexible min/max auto-iso
  • min shutter speed setting (only up to 1/250s, thanks, Canon)
  • orientation-linked af point (if anyone dares to use the non-center point)

These can be positive or negative according to personal taste or other equipment (like lens' sharpness/vignetting):

• full frame sensor:
  • small depth of field
  • uses the whole lens area
  • field of view is like 35mm film
• small, but still an ok/good grip
• light (while retaining weather sealing)
• 60d-type layout for "right-hand only" control
• sd-card support, uhs-1 standard
• less expensive means less need for insurance, worst-case (damage, theft) is less catastrophic
• less innovations means proven tech = less (early adopter's) issues like compat w/ 3rd party tc (?)
• larger af point edges - better to see with f2.8+, in dark environments & af points lit (probably?)

... reduced only 5d2 vs 6d: http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=12582.msg226467#msg226467

So my current lenses are 8-15 f/4 L, 24-70 f/2.8 II L, 50 f/1.4, 70-200 f/4 IS L, 100 f/2.8 L, with a 5D3.

I'm trying to decided between the 85L and the 24 TS-E for my next lens, which is a night and day decision. It will probably be my last (expensive) lens for a while. I shoot basically everything, including films. I'm trying to decide which lens will give me the more creative opportunity, but also fill some holes. The 24 will fill my landscape hole, while the 85 would fill my portrait hole. I wouldn't use the 24 conventionally though, and I would also love it for video because you can create really cool effects that can be used for dream sequences, etc. The 85 would be great for its amazing bokeh and low light performance.

I know none of you can objectively answer this question, but I'd love to hear some opinions anyway.

Thanks!

1.)

2.)

3.)


Thanks for looking

Hi,
I am evaluating a lens (Zeiss wide angle)canon mount.
Do you thing the swirl scratch is an issue for lens value? it is small enough, to make me believe will never show up in a picture, but at this moment, cannot take a shot with with sun glare, and verify that
Please see pic and comment - just the scratch, not the dust

and the reference stick is 0.5mm pencil lead
NOTE: the swirl below is just froam cleaning - the scratch is to the right of the red pencil lead

Hello everyone!

I went to Israel in August and made this video:

Israel - The land of the Bible

It was so hot in the dessert. My fellow had a small dslr (not canon) with her. It stoped working when exposed to the sun too long. No such problems for my 5D III

Let me know what you think

Greetings!

Today Amazon lower the price of 60D by $300.
-60D with 18-200: $999 (was $1299)
-60D with 18-135: $899 (was $899)
-60D Body: $699 (was $899)

http://www.amazon.com/Canon-CMOS-Digital-Camera-3-0-Inch/dp/B0040JHVCC

What do you think?

For those 1dx users who have really customized their setups..,

I have setup a custom function for single point Af, single shot...

1) I'd like now to be able to push M-fn2 button to switch from single point to the 61 point mode and then push it again Back to single af point...

Possible? It seems the two items are mutually exclusive...

2) I'd like to assign one shot vs ai servo to a button and use that with a custom function preset for either one...

Possible or mutually exclusive again? I see that these buttons can be customized outside of the 3 custom function settings but don't see a way to do it within one of the three..

3) is it possible while in single shot af to set a specific focus point within 61 pts or that only works for ai servo mode?

4) if you set 1 pt af expanded to nearest 8... If a bird crosses the sky ...does the af track it completely across or is the assumption that the photographer is panning the camera to help keep it within those 8 original points?

Thanks,

Marc

i am into macro photography but i wouldnt mind trying it...
i came across the following product:
http://www.aputure.com/en/product/macro_tube_set_en.php

did anyone try it please, any reviews also?

these are its main features:
1. Perfect for macro shooting
2. Supports accurate TTL & Autofocus
3. Compatible with all EF and EF-S Canon lenses
4. Strong, sturdy, durable

Hi all, I'm doing a documentary photo shoot of a film festival tonight. There will be many low light situations. I can't use flash or lamps. Using a 5D mark III and 50mm Zeiss 2.0 and one leg Manfrotto tripod. Any advise how to prepare for the shoot? What should I keep in mind? I want to make portraits, catch the atmosphere of the festival. What camera settings would be best? Thanks, have a nice day.

Best deal so far on amazon

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007FGYZFI

Just got my Canon 35L 1.4 and was surprised to see all this "onion skin" in the bokeh. I have tried a quick web search but can't find out what causes this. Is this amount of onion skin normal for a 35 mm L lens? Will all lenses do this wide open. This is from the central area of the image. Thanks.

so to everyone that has had a 6d on their hands, or you just bought one, or if you know a website with some detailed reviews spit it out!
im going to get one for xmas gift to myself but if there are defects I would rather wait..

Hi all,

I've been looking about and I can't figure out if the latest Magic Lantern out there, supports the clean HDMI out....I thought I heard it would/could but I can't find confirmation on this.

If so...has anyone used it? If so..can you tell your set up, what are you using to record externally?

Another question I have about this...in this set up..what format is the video coming off? Would this be the equivalent of RAW video out? I'm wondering if anyone can fill in the blanks for me to let me know what can and cannot be done with the 5D3 and clean HDMI out (if not out already).

Would this be the equivalent of the Blackmagic camera shooting RAW video?

Anyway, hoping to start a discussion here to learn what exactly is needed to capture this (external recorder hardware), what it means for using and Post Production of footage captured this way...advantages and disadvantages...

And if it is available now...

Thanks in advance,

cayenne