Amazon has this at $299 as their gold box special...

This is an unusual test for The Camera Store, because it isn't a Canon love fest.

I held a Canon EOS-M last Saterday. The ergonomics are not as good as a Sony NEX-5, but they are livable. I'd love to have a mirrorless home for my EF 85mm f/1.8, but not at this price, and not with outdated sensor technology.

Edited Nov 27, 2012. Sorry I didn't include the link So here it is https://www.thecamerastore.com/blog/2012/11/25/canon-eos-m-hands-field-test

Hello,

I haven't used a SDXC based camera other than a Kodak PlaySport in years.

Is there a major detriment to using SDXC instead of CompactFlash?

I am looking at buying a 6D, but the SDXC cards are worrying me. Is this something to be concerned about?

I greatly appreciate your comments.

I have just begun to get hooked on DSLRs over the past yr. My wife had an XSi that I learned on before purchasing the T4i in June. I am looking to spend between $800 -$1200 on a new lens. I currently have the EF-S 55-250 IS, EF-S 18-55 IS and a 40mm STM. I mostly take pictures at sporting events, choir concerts (indoors with lower lighting), family events (holidays, weddings, graduations, etc.) and city landscapes.

I am currently looking at the 70-200 f2.8L non-IS, 70-200 f4L IS, 135 f2L. I am looking for a lense that would be good enough off a tripod/monopod as well as handheld.

With my lack of experience in photography, I want to make sure that I am considering all options, but want to rely on the expertise of people with much more experience than I.

All suggestions on other lenses are appreciated as well.

Now that I am spending less time building my water drop setup and more time playing with it I thought I would share some more progress.

Recently I played around with cross polarization - which is placing polarizing gels on the speedlights and a polarizer over the lens. When aligned correctly the technique removes most reflections. I decided to try it on a black liquid to best see the effect.

This is with cross polarization

The River Styx by CalevPhoto, on Flickr

And this is without. Note that I changed the gel for the background between shoots.

Rain Cap by CalevPhoto, on Flickr

Personally I found X-polarization useful but it is a technique that really requires more lights. The polarizer gel and filter took too much light away and required me to go higher in ISO than I preferred. I also think in retrospect black liquid was a very poor choice for the test. In the future I plan to try this again with a lighter liquid and more lights.

In this shot I started trying something much different but didn't meet much luck there. I wound up playing with the reflections on the drops. This is caused by the color of the drops themselves combined with the geled speedlight behind them and the effectively geled (through the water) speedlight below. I like the effect but need to play with this more to better understand it.

Bowling for Bubbles by CalevPhoto, on Flickr

This is another failure. I started by trying to collide drops in midair - similar to what I did in my 2nd shot above - but I had difficulties getting it to work again. I then collided drops with the splatter of the first drop, where I succeeded but found the effect not so interesting. I ended up with this shot.

Into the Wishing Well by CalevPhoto, on Flickr

For a video shoot on the beach I'm using a polarization filter, but it's the first time I'm using one
Any advise on how to use it?

This I got: I have to turn the filter, but what do I look for? Just the best picture?

I'm a noob

I don't see the option for manual white balance See only the presets when I push WB, like AWB, daylight...

This I got: At the movie set I have to take a still from something white and use that still as a reference. But how do I do that? Let the camera "know" the still is the reference?

Many thanks for your help

Btw, shooting with the 5D mark III, Zeiss primes, and making a short film.

this is my 7D with a tameron 10-24.
why is the focus so far off?
does my camera hate this lens?




File Name: IMG_1574.jpg (Edit)

File Size: 694 kb - 1875 x 1250

Camera Make: Canon

Camera Model: Canon EOS 7D

Date/Time: 2012:11:20 11:21:28

Resolution: 1875 x 1250

Flash Used: No

Focal Length: 10.0mm (35mm equivalent: 16mm...

CCD Width: 23.04mm

Exposure Time: 0.0050 s (1/200)

Aperture: f/3.5

ISO Equiv.: 2500

Whitebalance: Auto

Metering Mode: pattern

Exposure: Manual

Exposure Mode: Manual

Hi Everyone! I cannot ID this shoredird, seen 11/24/12 on Barefoot Beach Preserve in Naples, Florida. Taken with 7D, 300 2.8 IS Mk I, and TC 2x mk III.

I've been working on a short documentary and a lot of the leftover footage is being put into a series of webisodes - check them out and let me know what you think so far:

https://vimeo.com/54263832


https://vimeo.com/53762688

This is why I got my 7D in the first place!

I've been shooting for years and looking to get into video. I have L series lenses 16-200mm. I have yet to find a definitive answer to this question:

Are ultawide 12mm, 14mm lens really popular in the video field and if so, why?

I'm new to CR and I know people have asked this question a lot but every post I've looked at fails to answer the basics

I'm budget conscious but will spend the extra buck if it will make a difference. I currently have an old rebel, which doesn't really do much but was a good starter DSLR. I now want to upgrade. I am a journalist and am looking to shoot photos and videos in various contexts. I was settled on the 60D honestly because it sounds professional and because I found a good deal on the body. I did come across the t4i, which some people say is an upgrade from the 60D despite still being a rebel. Here are some of things that matter to me:

1)I hear the 60D is sealed against bad weather. Does this matter and is the t4i sealed as well?
2)Auto focus on video? Do both of these cameras have that?
3)I heard that the t4i is new and thus there could be things wrong with it that Canon will fix later on. Does this matter?
4) I'm a petite girl and I know the t4i is lighter. I'm confortable with the heavier 60D, but is weight a big factor when shooting for a while?
5) Battery life, LCDs, is the touch screen a good thing? Anyone use it?

This is probably not the place but also dont know much about lenses. Can anyone recommend good, not too expensive, zoom lens and standard lens?

Thank you!

Hi... I have a 24-105 for two years now and yesterday the red ring just broke off. Just came off for no reason. Didn't drop the lens or camera. I took the camera out of my camera bag to shoot and noticed something out of place. Looked at it closer and it was the red ring. It's made of hard plastic.

Any ideas of how to get another red ring?

Actually in France, we can order the 6D (fnac.com - avaibility announced 4 to 12 days) with 3 different lenses :

40mm f/2.8 STM pancake 2279.90 €
24-70 f/4 L IS macro 3349.90 €
24-105 f/4 L IS 2899.90 €

Good day, i have a little flash question...tried testing but still not convinced!

So I have 3 X 600EX-RT (all configured on radio transmission)

1st one is on the camera body acting as a master
2nd one is slave GROUP A
3rd one is slave GROUP B

Question: When in setup like this...Is the master considered in any of the groups? or does it act on it's own?
meaning if I play around with the master flash exposure does it affect cameras on group A and B?

regards

Before I knew better I bought the 120-400 OS following advice from one of the magazines,this lens has never worked properly giving milky pics with ghostlike halos around subjects,an allover softness which I liken to a Doris Day filter,funnily enough it turns out quite sharp and clear portraits on my friend's 5DmkIII.Has anyone come across a fix to get this lens to work on the 7D,have tried the AF adjust to get the focus to work,still has milky images.It turns out slightly more acceptable images on my 450D but still with a Doris Day filter

So I am a 7 year user of Nikon, I had invested into a lot of nice glass, and truth be told, I loved a lot of aspects of my Nikon gear, but over the years I have started to do a more video, and less photography. I finally cracked and decided to get the 5D Mark III because of its insane low light capabilities, and because of the clear dedication canon has to making DSLR's that can produce brilliant looking video.

So I am selling all my nikon glass since I need AF still for weddings.

Now... The dilema....

I am planning on getting a 85mm 1.8, a 50mm 1.4, but I cant decide which wide lens to get for when I am using a Glidecam or for landscapes. I am interested in the 20mm 2.8 because of the aperture, and the 17-40mm f/4 because of the extra wide end of the lens and a little more versatility. I know a lot will say that I should do the 16-35mm f/2.8 since it has both a wide aperture, and the wide end of the lens, but unless I some one can give me compelling reasons why I should spend an additional $800 for the lens I don't know if its an option.

Canon's road through the photography world has become very bumpy, and I think many people have gotten lost.
Please help the community, and comment, add, or correct.

Does anyone have any insight into what steps are taken by Canon to refurb a 7D? I do suppose it depends on the condition of the item, but specifically, I am wondering if I should expect a 'new' shutter (i.e. low shutter count) and a new battery. Also should I expect that a refurb could come with cosmetic wear and tear marks (i.e. worn dial, scratches etc)?
Prices are looking good on the Canon site and it may be time to consider one if I can be assured of what I am getting.

Thanks.

Ok, still waiting for my tripod and polarizer and grad ND filter, so these were all handheld. Please let me know what you think about the compositions. Also, should I speed up or slow down the shutter? My wife doesn't like all the motion, so I want to hear what other people think. The only post processing was to add a graduated ND filter on the sky and increase the exposure on the beach.
Image 2541 was shot using a parking bollard for stabilization. ISO 100, 55mm, f5.6, 1/4s
Image 2568 - ISO 100, 28mm, f8, 1/20s
Image 2662 - ISO 100, 55mm, f16, 1/30s
Image 2701 - ISO 100, 55mm, f16, 1/30s

Hello all,

I have just picked up a new 600 EX-RT as my first and only speedlight, after playing with ETTL and Manual mode; i have figured something strange ( or just i am just a beginner with speedlights and didn't understand it well yet). It is the ZOOM VALUE showed on the flash's LCD, in ETTL with my 24-105 it just work fine,but when i put on 100L it keep showing 80 not 100, even in Manual there is no 100 only 80 or 105, is it normal ??

i have read in the user manual that is manula mode i should keep the zoom little wider than the actual value of the lens to spread the light more....

Thanks for ur help

Can't decide whether to wait or go for t4i... could the t5i be that much better? in noise dont care for more resolution.

The 1D Mark IV is great wildlife camera - the 1.3 crop works greater with long lenses. Plus 10 FPS is excellent for capturing action. Any hope for a newAPS-H sensor?