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Please recommend tips for capturing actions shots on a 5d mkii

Hi everyone,

I am trying to capture a photo of my dog (maltese) hopping about which he likes do. I think it would make a really cute photo that my fiance would love.

I recently got a 5d mkii. I only bought a 50mm 1.8 whilst i decided what other lens would suit my needs. I have read countless times on here that the 5d mkii AF sucks, and th 50mm 1.8 probably isnt the fastest af lens either. I was trying to do this last night but it was about 10pm and my house lights are quite dull, so my shutter speed was too slow to freeze action. Any quicker and the ISO would have been unusable.

HOWEVER rather than being negative can people please give advice on how to improve my chances at capturing this. I am going to buy a flash soon. Could I use this too trigger the shutter as the dog jumps past it? Ive seen that technique used in high speed photography.

In general what other tips do people use for actions shots to get around the 5d mkiis AF.

Thanks

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5d mark iii ai servo odd problem

This last weekend I was on a boat and I switched to the focus mode that allows all points to be used in ai servo mode. I had my 24-70 2.8 on my 5d mark iii. I had selected the center as my start point for focus and I choose a jet ski speeding by. The camera chose to create a cross of focus points in the center and did not track. If I pointed to the other side of the boat my camera would track the rocks. I choose another slower moving boat and the same thing happened. The camera would not track. I have never had this happen before with the 5d. I switched to zone mode and it tracked fine. I rarely try the all points mode, I am curious what others have experienced. Also I am sure you will ask I tried switching to several of the focus types. I tried the basic generic one at the top, also I tried the mode at the bottom of the tab that says it does focus point switching and tracks distance. I found neither worked. It was sunny out maybe the water and the reflective boats tricked the camera and it couldnt focus?

Ryan

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Am I crazy for thinking about doing this?

Oh wise and all knowing canon rumors community, I require your insights.

Here's the deal. I have a 5d2, and a 5d3. My longest lens is a 70-200 2.8 IS L. I make 99% of my money from photographing weddings.

I am thinking about trading my 5d2 for a 7d with some cash, then using that cash towards the mighty Canon 100-400 IS L lens. I'm wanting to try doing some sports and wildlife and whatnot. I don't know if I'll be able to profit from these different endeavors, but I'm going to try.

The reason I think I might be crazy for doing this is because im not sure how I'll like the 7D's image quality compared to my beloved 5d3. Is the extra "reach" the crop gives you worth the lower IQ? I know the 100-400 is not a fast lens, but will I be frustrated with it, especially if its on the 7d and I can't push my iso as high?

A friend and colleague of mine had a 7d and got rid of it because he didn't like its IQ compared to the 5d2. That kinda worries me. Plus, having two FF cameras is more beneficial to me for wedding work than a crop would be. But adding that crop sensor gives me more, and different, capabilities. I guess its all about trade offs.

So, people, what do you think? Will I hate the 7d after using the 5d3? Any tips on making money with shooting sports/wildlife? Am I crazy for thinking about doing this? As far as shooting weddings, out of the ~1000 photos I take, about 50 are on the 5d2 for wide angles during the ceremony with the other ~950 taken on my 5d3. So I don't know if I'll really miss the 5d2 that much...

Sorry for writing so much, but I wanted you guys to be able to give me some well informed advice and opinions. You guys know what you are talking about, so I shall defer to your experience! Thanks!

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Image Review Camera vs Lightroom

Why is it that my 5D3 can very quickly render a 100% view of my image and Lightroom takes a lot longer? It isn't like I have a slow computer. I have an imac with a 3Ghz processor and 16GB of RAM. I don't even shoot RAW just JPEG. I am considering connecting my camera to a TV or monitor to rate images before I import them into Lightroom. Has anyone done that and if so how do you like it?

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5DIII Memory Storing

I am just starting to shoot in RAW. I have a 32 GB CF and SD card installed(Sandisk) I know the view screen show the card with lower memory, in this case the RAW is significantly lower(770 vs 3900 approx in jpeg). I also know that each file is recorded with same name/numbering sequence.

My question is since I will be removing the CF card sooner, , how will the numbering continue after I put in the fresh CF card, ie it may be 01IMG770.RAW and 01IMG770.jpg, but would the next pic be 02IMG01.raw and 01IMG771.jpg or would jpg start over at that point in a different folder.

Hope not too confusing.

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A few observations after shooting with the 5d3

I'm sure these have been covered to death in other forums or blogs or whatever, but hopefully someone will find some use out of it...

#1 there is no more dedicated question for expandable ISO on or off... The other day I was shooting a pro model to bolster her portfolio and mine, and I was outside, late afternoon, shooting with off-camera flash, with the sync speed stuck at 1/200... I wanted shallow(er) DOF so I really didn't want to go beyond f8 if i could help it. I didn't have any neutral density and I only needed to go down 1 stop from ISO 100... so ISO 50 fit the bill... Every camera with expandable ISO i've ever shot with had a simple yes or no, on or off expandable ISO and viola, all the extra ISO's magically unlock. This camera in the ISO settings allow you to manually select which is the lowest ISO setting you wish to use and what is the highest. For some reason my brain thought that was to do with AUTO iso settings, but that controls expandable ISO's as well. Also to access min shutter speeds for auto ISO, it's in the ISO menu as well.

#2 Talking about menu's, it is totally different... A lot is the same but a lot is different. Same feel as the 7D and 5d2 menu's but a lot of reshuffling, a lot of options bundled together in submenu's and such... take time to get use to it. If you really dont get used to it, it can get weird very quickly.

#3 AF look, feel, and customization is a lot like the 7d. I noticed there are a lot of 5d2 and 1d series guys picking up the 5d3 and having problems with the AF, black dots, etc... but coming from a 7D background, it's almost identical except more points and a 9 point cluster... Easy to pick up from in that case.

#4 There is no mention in the top LCD for image save method (jpeg L or RAW)... That was one of the only reasons I ever used the top LCD and to see how many approx shots I have left to a card. The jpeg/raw/both setting is no longer present in the top LCD and you have to actually go into the menu to find it. Also another quick access menu that was buried deep within the main menu is shooting styles. 99% of the time I never use it or set it and forget it, but the menu buttons in the back doesn't provide a quick one press access to it. Of course I set it (for whatever jpegs I decide to shoot) so I likely will not touch that menu for the remainder of my days unless I need a saturation boost for whatever reason, but that's neither here nor there, but likely in that situation I may shoot raw..

#5 speaking of raw, developing in DPP with a 16bit tiff raw, you are getting around 110MB files give or take. Developing in 8bit is smaller, but just to think, lets say you develop 10 of those puppies, that's over a gig of HD space right there... 100 of those is over 10 gigs... 600 (typical wedding photographer on average) and your looking around 60 gigs if not more. Just something to chew on... I can only imagine the damage the D800 would do to my HD plus extra workflow but that's another topic for another day.

#6 HDR I love the idea of it... I never really heard it really explained or saw videos of it but always hear that it does a good job handholding... I kinda thought they meant they handheld it and manually fired 3 consecutive shots... nope... set its perimeters, set the scene up, and click the shutter once and the camera rapid fires 3 shots back to back to back without you even thinking of it. I've got to play around with it, but for those down and dirty quick HDR shots for lets say real estate shots, especially on tripods... If done right and with a big enough bracket, it could be a time saver right there... Still need to play around with it and i'm skeptical on how it would handle on a 180 or 360 pano head with HDR, but for a 1 shot application, it's promising.

#7 body... I've heard that it's like full frame version of the 7d. The 7d when I first got it, I was slightly turned off because it was so sculpted. It was very masculine on how sculpted the grip was, where the MFN button and dial wheel was, where the card door holder protruded in the palm of my hand. The card door boobage is still there, but it feels more comfortable (either that or my hand is more used to it). The camera doesn't look or feel as sculpted but more natural and curvaceous. It just feels more comfortable in the hand overall. The grip feels deeper albeit ever so slightly so my fingers when wrapped around touch the body ever so slightly and comfortably. On the 7d, for whatever reason my fingers ran out of real estate in the grip causing the knuckles to buckle a bit and kind of made my hand cramp up quicker (and i've got short fingers, so that says something). The body just feels right in my hands, no guarantees for those with longer fingers though. Anyways Good luck to those who have or are getting the 5d3 and hope to have some photos to you guys soon.

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Im confused between IS and fstop advantages

Hi all,

Im wanting to get either a 100mm f2.8 L IS or a 135L f2. Im getting into gig photography and ive noticed that even f1.8 can struggle so im assuming the faster the glass the better!? But would the IS actually help me achieve the same results by allowing me to use a slower shutter speed due to the IS, or would this just incur motion blur from people moving on stage?


My problem is that i want the 100mm IS because i also have an interest in video, and i like the ability to do macro. Its not my thing right now, but the ability to do it in the future would be good. However i feel like i should go for the 135L becasue its faster and the brokeh is awesome. Theyre both sharp so thats good. The 135L seems like a very good price used on ebay. There isnt too much price difference between the two lenses.

What would you do? Also its worth mentioning, I might get a 85mm 1.8 or sigma 85 1.4 at some point too. (I only have a 50mm 1.8 atm and a 5dmkii - just bought this weekend)

Thanks for your help

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Odds & Ends [Various]

HTML:
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<strong>New Firmware [CR2]


</strong>A mention of a new “important” firmware for the 5D Mark III was mentioned as coming sometime in June. No mention of what would be “fixed” or added to the camera.</p>
<p><strong>Mirrorless [CR2]


</strong>More mentions of a mirrorless announcement in June. Launching with 3 lenses with a public “roadmap” of what would coming for the system down the road.</p>
<p><strong>Photokina [CR1]


</strong>A few other mentions that Canon would make a “big splash” for Photokina in September. If the mirrorless is already available, not sure what that would be.</p>
<p>On a Photokina note, I’ll be there in Cologne to check out the new wares from Canon and the rest.</p>
<p><strong>EF 24-70 f/2.8L II Availability


</strong>The lens will be available in July from a few people. There is “no risk of more delays”. Initial stock will be good, but there will obviously be backorder lists for a while.</p>
<p><strong>Preorder at <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/843008-REG/Canon_5175B002_24_70mm_f_2_8L_EF_II.html/BI/2466/KBID/3296">B&H</a> & <a href="http://www.adorama.com/CA2470.html?kbid=64393" target="_blank">Adorama</a></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

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EF 100mm Macro 2.8/L IS, or 100mm macro non-L + EF 85mm 1.8

Hello All

Frequent visitor of this forum, first time posting... sorry if this has been beaten to death but I was hoping to gather the opinion of those more familiar with the above lenses.

I am just a hobbyist- mostly taking pics on my daughter, family vacations, the odd landscape. Getting into photography more & more and just wondering how to next add to my lens kit before the rebates end.

I currently have had the 60D for about a year; 18-200 kit lens that came with it. While I know it's not great, the real estate it covers for family outings is great. I also have the tamron 17-50 2.8 non VC, and the Canon EF 50mm 1.4 so far.

Quit smoking when my daughter was born, been putting that money aside, so ever 7 or 8 months or so I have about $1000 to blow on my new hobby. I was thinking about a macro lens, but I also want to do some more potraits as my daughter gets older.

Long story short- for my $1000 I am not sure if I should spring for the one EF 100 Macro "L" with IS, or the other two lenses. I think I'd want to get the 85mm 1.8 eventually too... but for now, is the L Macro worth the 400 dollar premium over the non L? How useful is IS on this lens? I manage without it on the Tamron but again that is a much shorter focal length.

Or am I barking up the wrong tree completely and should I be looking at upgrading my zooms? I was thinking of selling the Tamron down the road for the canon 17-40L so if I go full frame down the road I have a wide angle lens... but I don't really have to do that now...

anyway, any help/advice is much appreciated!

-S

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Chinese Alternative BG-E11 for 5D III not as bad

Today I received a review from the Ebay seller where I pre-ordered my grip for USD90 including shipping

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=140755377672

The full review can be read at https://www.facebook.com/StudioLightingPro.EN

Some paragraphs I found interesting:

Hard to identify whether the grip is made of ABS Plastic or Magnesium Alloy.
The finish is identical to the Camera's finish and it feels fantastic in my "large" hands.

The wheel used to screw the grip into the camera bottom feels solid and securely screw in.It fits on the camera easily and looks like it belongs. It also makes the 5D III look and feel much more substantial.

All the buttons feel great, pretty similar to the camera body. Also the multi-controller button included on the grip works fine too, but to honest it's a little bit more sensitive to the touch than the camera one. You must get used to it.

They also uploaded some photos:

540494_316104651803021_108804505866371_709331_1598807092_n.jpg


148994_316105608469592_108804505866371_709341_1291596079_n.jpg


319877_316103398469813_194286682_n.jpg


564977_316105958469557_108804505866371_709343_515863516_n.jpg


306149_316106091802877_108804505866371_709344_1065891467_a.jpg


I can't wait to have mine :D :D :D

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Flash

Greetings Community,

I am currently in the process of switching my gear from Nikon to Canon. I am still learning most of the Canon products, and I would like to know which flash you guys would suggest that can act both as master and slave. I had the Nikon SB-700, which in my eyes was perfect for everything I need it for. If there is a similar or equivalent one like that flash from Canon's side, I would be more than happy if someone linked me to a few good ones.

-TheMonster

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Bokeh...is the look getting dated?

We have all spent the past few years kitting up with lenses that will deliver sharp images at wide apertures and with smooth appealing bokeh. Such lenses are high on the "must-have" list. It's a look that I personally like a lot, as do most of my clients.

Interestingly, I've been getting an increasing, though still very occasional request in a job brief for total depth of field in subjects that my instincts would have delivered the now more conventional "look" of shallow depth of field and smooth bokeh. There is an old saying that everything old will be new again.

A brief, possibly flawed look through the photographic styles since WWII reveal a predominance of full depth of field wherever possible. Long lens work would be excluded here. I just wonder when the current desirable "look" will start to look tired and old fashioned. It will happen. It always does. Probably not anytime soon, but still it's worth staying skilled up in the art of making an image look good with a total depth of field.

We may well start grinding away at Canon to deliver lenses that perform superbly ay f/22. As ISO performance improves, shooting at f/22 with a good fast shutter speed is becoming a practical reality. Though not always a great IQ reality. Strong sales of Canons new tilt/shift lenses may push this trend.

As creatives, it's over to us to establish new looks, or at least to see the future coming and be ready for it rather than reacting once it's already run right over the top of us.

Just my thought for the day...

PW

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  • Poll Poll
Are you going to "upgrade" your 24-70 2.8 I

With the 24-70 II on the horizon, will you be upgrading your 24-70 I, given the *rumoured* significa

  • Probably / Yes

    Votes: 23 29.9%
  • No

    Votes: 31 40.3%
  • Will wait and see what the tests show

    Votes: 23 29.9%

With the 24-70 II on the horizon, will you be upgrading your 24-70 I, given the *rumoured* significant increase in optical quality?

Personally I'm going to. I've never been completely happy with the version I of this lens. It's fine at f5.6, but at 2.8 I've never loved the quality. Also, I like to use the outside of a lens and I find the quality is questionable.

I'm really hoping this will give me the extra quality that I'd like :)

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Beliefs and myths.

These are some ‘concepts’ I am living with a photographer. Would like it if you educate me where I am wrong or right. THX!!
You can add your own beliefs and myths for me to learn as well... :)

* With all other factors being equal, more megapixels will give better IQ except in high ISO.

* Raw files opened in Adobe or in DPP will have identical IQ.

* In real life situations the result from Zeiss lenses will be mostly indistinguishable from Canon lenses, all other factors being equal.

* The 5d3 is the camera to grab when getting the photo is of utmost importance rather than D800.

* Nikon makes better wide-angle lenses including wide-angle zooms than Canon.

* If the user understands Photoshop properly then Nik softwares are redundant.

* Film has lost the battle and digital rules and even looks better.

* Chromatic aberrations and lens vignette characteristics of a lens do not matter as these things can be fixed easily in Photoshop.

* The IQ of 1dx and 5d3 at ISO 100 will be same.

* Cropping in camera (1.6 factor) is not the same as cropping equal amount in post on a full frame camera.

* Mac computers have no real advantage over PC when it comes to processing photos.

* 99.9 percent of equipment complaints are user errors including the 5d3 criticisms.

* Canon will announce a high megapixel camera within six months.

* 1Dx will ship in reasonable quantities and will fill in the initial demand mostly.

* 5d3 will not eat into the sales of 1Dx.

* New equipment may not make better pictures but certainly do help in making better pictures and people should stop criticizing people who want to buy new gear.

* People who regularly visit photo forums or for that matter ‘pixel peep’ can also be wonderful photographers.

* Manuel focusing can be learned with practice and once second nature, it is almost as fast as shooting with auto focus for subjects not moving so fast.

* It is ok to use auto exposure modes available in camera and that does not make anyone a lesser photographer.

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5DMk3 RAW Images Underexposed in Aperture

I've just started shooting with a 5DMk3. On the camera, the images appear exposed properly.

When I import them into Aperture, they first appear to be exposed correctly (presumably from an embedded preview image):
ApertureJPG.jpg


But once Aperture has processed them, they update to 1-2 stops underexposed:
ApertureRAW.jpg


I have been shooting on a 5DMk2 and importing into Aperture for years and have never seen this behavior.
I'm curious if anyone else has seen this?
I'm hoping this is something I can "unset" either in Aperture or on the camera.

Thanks for your help,
Bison

P.S. Apologies for the poor quality screen caps.

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