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Shooting With the EOS 6D in Costa Rica

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<strong>My vacation camera


</strong>I decided to force myself to put down the familiar and start using a camera and lens I wouldn’t normally pick up. I am down in Jaco, Costa Rica for a couple of weeks with the <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/892349-REG/Canon_8035b002_EOS_6D_Digital_Camera.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">EOS 6D</a> and <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/843008-USA/Canon_5175B002_EF_24_70mm_f_2_8L_II.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">EF 24-70 f/2.8L II</a>. I plan to do a full review of the 6D in the next couple of months, as I may also be bringing it to Vietnam and Laos at the end of January. For now I will do an update every few days with my feelings about the camera.</p>
<p>So far I have found the combination to be quite nice. The EOS 6D does not feel like a “budget” camera at all. It’s a hefty little thing with great image quality and ergonomics. I do wish I had the new EF 24-70 f/4L IS, as I think it will be far better balanced on the camera. Don’t get me wrong, having an EF 24-70 f/2.8L II attached to the camera is not a bad thing.</p>
<p>I am getting used to it not having a joystick to move focus points like on the EOS 5D Mark III and EOS 1D X, the control pad inside the scrollwheel works quite well.</p>
<p>Below is an image of my son playing in the waves. The 6D got soaked with salt water by mistake and seems to have survived the ordeal unscathed.</p>
<p>The image quality is top notch, the color and dynamic range of the new 20mp sensor is quite good. I plan to head out in the evenings and test out the high ISO performance.</p>
<div id="attachment_12405" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 585px"><a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/IMG_0216.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-12405" alt="EOS 6D & EF 24-70 f/2.8L II - Jaco Beach, Costa Rica" src="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/IMG_0216-575x383.jpg" width="575" height="383" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">EOS 6D & EF 24-70 f/2.8L II – My son in the waves at Jaco Beach, Costa Rica</p></div>
<p><strong>EOS 6D Video</strong>

I have yet to do any testing of the video capabilities of the EOS 6D, as that is not a strength of mine. I may get into it a bit later in the trip.</p>
<p><em><strong>Canon EOS 6D for $2099 at <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/892349-REG/Canon_8035b002_EOS_6D_Digital_Camera.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">B&H Photo</a> | <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009B0MZ8U/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B009B0MZ8U&linkCode=as2&tag=canorumo-20" target="_blank">Amazon</a> | <a href="http://www.normancamera.com/index/page/product/product_id/26833/product_name/Canon+EOS+6D+Digital+Camera+%28Body+Only%29+" target="_blank">Norman</a> | <a href="http://www.adorama.com/ICA6D.html?kbid=64393" target="_blank">Adorama</a></strong></em></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

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Nissin Di866 II AF beam works on 5D3

So I finally got my 5D3 last week and I got around to testing it with my current flash, the Nissin Di866 II. I seem to recall hearing about 5D3 having trouble using the AF beams of the 580 and 600 speedlites. I don't have any of those flashes to give a comparison but I can say that the AF assist with the Nissin was very reliable in low light!

I've tried using the AF beam both with and without actually firing the flash and in both cases, the unit actually manages to find the target even in a pitch black room. Heck, I couldn't even see what I was aiming at! All my subjective testing was done using the Tamron 24-70 lens on the 5D3 and from what I noticed, focusing with the AF beam seems to be just a tad slower than focusing with sufficient light.

Are there any users of both the 5D3 and the Nissin flash that can confirm these? Again, I have no experience with the 580/600 so I can't do even subjective comparisons.

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Announcement on January 8, 2013? New Lenses [CR1]

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<p><strong>New lenses soon?

</strong>I have received my first announcement date of 2013. It’s apparently going to be January 8, 2013.</p>
<p><strong>What is coming that day?</strong>

I am told 2 new L lenses. The EF 35 f/1.4L II and EF 14-24 f/2.8L will be announced. Both lenses would be available by the end of March 2013. The EF 35 f/1.4L II is a complete redesign and has 2 UD elements.</p>
<p>This is a [CR1] for now as I try and get confirmation of the announcement date and the lenses that are coming.</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

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Macro pics - FF or APS-C

I have debated the merits of upgrading to FF for a while now. I think the pros outweigh the cons (other than cost) for the most part except possibly in one very important area for me, and that's macro shots. Could someone help me to determine if my logic/research is correct?

I currently shoot with a 60D and the very good EF-S 60mm macro. Generally for macro, you're not shooting wide open, or even close to it. In general, I'm at f8 (range varies from f5.6-f11 most of the time) so that I get a somewhat decent depth of field.

If I were to switch to FF (either 6D or 5D3), I'd be using the 100mm macro instead (similar FOV to the 60mm macro on the 60D ~ 96mm). To obtain a similar depth of field, would I not need a much smaller aperture?

For instance, I just used http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html to come up with the following scenario:

If I were using my current setup (60D + 60mm macro), the following parameters:
f8, 6.3' distance to subject
Would yield the following depth of field:
1 ft

***I realize this is not a macro shot but I used it because "1 ft" is a nice round number with some "play" to it - an actual macro calculation would have resulted in a very small fraction of a foot making a comparison much harder.

Now, if I were to pick up say, a 5D3 and the 100mm macro, in order to achieve 1 ft of depth of field at a distance of 6.3', I'd need to shoot at roughly f14.3 (the online calculator says this would be .99 ft).

Here's the problem... Diffraction/lens sharpness. I'm fairly sure that even as good as the 100mm macro is (even the L), it can't possibly be as sharp at f14 as the 60mm macro is at f8, can it?

What about when I'm in a pinch and need to go to f11 with my 60mm macro on APS-C? I'd need to go to over f20 to achieve a similar DOF with the 100mm on FF.

So, is my thinking/calculations correct in this case? Or am I overlooking something? Could the 100mm macro (L or not) be as good or better than the 60mm macro when obtaining a similar depth of field? Is the smaller APS-C sensor the key here? And finally, would I be even BETTER served (for macro) by going down to m4/3?

Thanks for any insight!
Jonathan

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EOS 60D Stock Levels Getting Low?

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<strong>Various Reports…..


</strong>I’ve received various reports from around the globe that EOS 60D stock levels have become very low. There are reports of at least two stores saying they cannot get any more stock at all.</p>
<p>I have nothing to report about an imminent replacement of the 60D, but I do expect to see at least one new APS-C camera in the next month or two.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/732047-REG/Canon_4460B003_EOS_60D_DSLR_Camera.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank"><strong><em>EOS 60D Body & Memory Card $699 at B&H</em></strong></p>
<p></a></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

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Menuoption 'AF status in viewfinder?' (5D MK III)

I am going through the 'AF Setting Guidebook of the 5D MKIII'. Great document.
Reading about all AF-related menu functions on page 5, I noticed in AF5 the menu option 'AF status in viewfinder'.

Now, maybe this question was raised before, just couldn't find it. So sorry if I raise it again:

I checked my 5D MKIII menu and this menuoption is not visible. I have the other 4 options that this Guidebook is showing.

My firmware is 1.1.3

What other menuoption must be enabled for 'AF status in viewfinder' showing up in the AF5 menu?

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Need advice on what to exchange for the 7D and/or 70-200 f/4

Hi,

I upgraded to the 5D3 this October and since then my 7D has been gathering dust. I thought that I would use it for birding pics with the 100-400 mm, however, I tried the 100-400 with the 5D3 today and found shooting to be considerably easier with the improved AF without any loss of IQ.

I also own the 70-200 f/4 non-IS. Now I am pondering whether I should sell the 7D and the 70-200 f/4, put in some more money and buy the 70-200 f/2.8 IS II. In the alternate, I could sell only the 7D and buy the 135L. Any suggestions?

I don't think that I'll need the 7D for any other purposes. Don't have any EFS glass so no downside there.

I normally do portraits, street photography and occasional landscapes.

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85L II + 6D outer AF point performance?

Hi folks,

Looking to see if users rocking the 6D and 85L II have any experience to share regarding performance/accuracy of AF on the outer points for this combo.

My 85L II is the only lens in my kit that's epic fail when it comes to AF points aside from the center on my 5Dc, and is the primary factor in considering an upgrade. For all other glass 70-200II, 100L, etc., hit rate is generally "ok" for non moving subjects with outer AF, but wouldn't mind getting better consistency here either.

I've been using the venerable 5Dc for 6 years now (landscape/portraits at low ISO w/tripod), and while there is nothing compelling me to upgrade, I find myself frustrated at times manually focusing at 1.2 (and occasionally at 2.8.) for off center subjects. I've been using Canon's high precision MF screen for several years now, and while it has helped moderately in good light, would like to explore alternatives to my 5Dc AF which is feeling a bit "long in the tooth" and antiquated at the moment.

Your feedback is much appreciated. Thanks in advance!

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Canon pre flash in manual mode with wireless triggers?

So here is an expert question: I'm looking to potentially get new triggers at some point that need to work with a 580EXII and a bunch of 430EXIIs. I'd be looking at ETTL triggers first - not because I want the actual TTL functionality but because I want to be able to set the output manually in camera. More than three groups would be great. So as nice and sturdy as the Pocket Wizard Plus III look they won't do any of that. All other PW models seem rather old at this point and the're suffering from a few issues (price being one of them).
Phottix Odin would be the next logical alternative. Or whatever Pixel King comes up with next or Yongnuo, whatever.

But here's the question now: it appears that most or all (?) of these models make the Canon speedlites still put out a pre-flash even when set to manual. That would stink when combining things with studio flash or lightmeters. So is this a design flaw in those Chinese triggers or is this per Canon design? Do PWs do this also - do they even allow for manual settings?

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Digital equivalence: film tab holders

In the film years, when camera bodies were changed with far less frequency, i used to love the holder for your tab off the film box, just to remind you of your speed and colour etc.

The film was kind of the subconscious signal of intent. A zenit loaded with k64 meant more than an fm loaded with gold...

If ever I saw a velvia, delta or tmax label I would be quite interested in what they were up to. Regardless of the camera body spec or cost.

I wonder what the digital equivalence is? ...

Good shots aside? What marks out an impoverished artisan from a souless gearhead?

An eyecup? A spirit level? A handmade camera strap? An adapted manual lens?

Thoughts please. Aside from white lenses what else makes you think.. "they are obviously quite into it" when you meet a fellow tog on your travels?

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attaching lens hoods

1st world problem, well not really a problem. Why does Canon ask us to align there lens hoods with the red dot on the lens and then rotate, when the hood is in the stop position the writing on the hood is facing down. Now I know you can position the hood differently so the writing will be at the top, but Canon prefer it was on the bottom. Why? ???

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Infinity and Cold

After getting a 21mm Zeiss that has a hard stop for infinity that is spot on too, I'm wondering how that still works with bitter temps. Seems most of the lenses I've had the infinity changes a good bit if the lens gets really cold. Last night for example the infinity on the Samyang 14mm seemed to be clear at the very edge, while warmer times it seemed it was definitely on the other side of the infinity line. Guess I'm not sure what I'm wondering exactly. Just what others have seen. Some lenses must be designed differently that it's not as big of an issue. First impressions is that it's not budging on the Zeiss.

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Variable length zooms and dust

I have a question regarding zoom lenses that change their physical length, such as 24-105L, 70-300L etc, and the potential for them to ingest dust, pollen etc into both the camera body and themselves by sucking and blowing air in and out.

Is this a fact ?

If this is the case I am puzzled as to why when fitting a weather sealed zoom of this type onto a weather sealed body you don't have problems in zooming the lens outwards against a vacuum that would be created in the body.
Now I know that weather sealed doesn't mean airtight, but even so I would expect resistance when trying to zoom in or out quickly as the air tries to pass the weather sealing gaskets.

Can anyone explain

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"Do you want to borrow a 1DX" ?

Mothers estate finally came through. approx 10mins after I got the money I'm driving to my local train station, heading south to buy a new 300 prime. Anyway in the shop, guy says fancy a 1DX? No, need reach, it's a bit short. " Fancy borrowing one for a couple of days, costs nothing, use it, don't like it bring it back, no cost he says. Stupid thing is I bloody well said no! Am I a total idiot? Free for a couple of days, no cost. Great marketing thing I thought, try before you buy. Anyway, needed to post my moment of complete and utter insanity. That said, I might go back after Xmas, they are getting an almost new used one in. I wanted to ask you x owners, he spoke of the x having a setting where if you focus on a particular spot, press the shutter button half way, a bird flys in from left of field, the camera can be set to jump to the bird, focus on it and run off a load of raw images. If true that is utterly amazing. Also, how good is the autofocus compared to my mk4? Is it really that much better? Im talking birds in flight stuff.
And is the 24-70 really that good as its the final piece in my lens jigsaw and I won't buy unless owners who have one, used it and tell me it really is a big step up from my old 24-105.


thanks and merry Xmas to all

mick

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any help would be appreciated

Hello folks, Im new to dslr & have purchased a couple of 60D's, Ive been getting some good tutorials on youtube & am now ok with most the camera settings iso / fps shutter etc but have one problem! When I do a pan the footage seems to so stutter slightly on playback, Ive posted this very short clip to you tube. The problem I have is very noticeable when passing the windows as you will see, any help would be appreciated. Im using the latest (magic lantern) as such it gives a info file details of which ive also posted below. Thank you

MVI 0647

info txt:
# Magic Lantern v2.3.60D.111

Start : 2010/01/18 19:30:16
Lens name : EF50mm f/1.8 II
ISO : 640 = yes I know this was a little to high could this be the problem ?
Shutter : 1/152.439s
Aperture : f/5.6
Focal length : 50 mm
Focus distance : 0 mm
White Balance : 2 - Cloudy, Magenta 0, Blue 0
Picture Style : Standard (3,0,0,0)
FPS : 25.000
Bit Rate (CBR) : 1.0x

CSV data:
Time,ISO,Shutter,Aperture,Focal_Len,Focus_Dist
19:30:16,640,150,5.6,50,0

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Will origional 5D & 600ex flash be compatable (read poss only sync @ 100th?)

As I have 3x origional 5d bodies which work well for my wedding photog buisness, I need to replace a 580ex flash & would like to use the new 600ex, it will be only used on the hotshoe but I am wondering if 200th flash sync & TTL ext still function as normal. This way when I update to Mk3 ext the flash will be able to be more compatable.

any advise is appreciated. I have looked online but all threads seem to refer to 5dMk2 / 600ex function compatability. Cheers Pete

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Do I need to rent a normal range zoom?

So I'll be shooting a couple weddings in March and I'm starting to think about gear for it. While the wedding I did in early December was with two full frame cameras, my wife was one of the brides maids so I was able to have both cameras with me with one having my 24-105 and the other a rented 70-200. My question is this. Do I need to rent a normal range zoom to make sure I don't miss shots? I'll give my wife the 24-105 so I'll at least have some fall back there. I normally use the 70-200 for most of the ceremony and a good part of the reception as well. The main things I'm thinking of are the cake cutting and wide shots of people dancing where you need something wide. My thoughts are either #1, use my 40 2.8 lens for this. I always have a hard time using this lens just cause of it's low price yet it's a very nice lens so maybe it's just in my head and that would a good option. The other possibility would be to rent the Canon 35 1.4 like I did for this last wedding and have that for my wider angle option. I'm only wanting to rent one wide aperture lens though and I'm trying to decide between this and the Sigma 85 1.4. Now one other thing that factors in and is part the reason I'm wondering if I can get by without renting a normal range zoom is I also still have my 50D which I can either have ready to go with my Sigma 10-20 or Tamron 17-50 as a backup as well. Full frame is obviously a lot nicer though so I wouldn't want to be using it more than I'm using the full frame or else what's the purpose in renting the full frame camera then? So any thoughts on this? Thanks

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1dx another focus issue!

Good day guys, well I just had this terrible error on my 1dx (latest firmware).

Mainly I went from one gig to another - camera was off....(attached to my 24-70 f2.8II)

I reached the new location, put the camera "on" and I was not able to achieve focus at all...
tried in my usually working custom functions C1, C2 C3...then tested in Ai Servo and One shot...nothing..

There was enough light so have 1/250 f4 @ ISO 800...so dim light was not an issue...

Anyhow...nothing was working.
As a certain point I decided to go in the "one shot" priority setting and put it to release...and camera started to work normally again.
Anyone has experienced this? Any idea?....I'm just plan discouraged tonight...the 1dx focus is haunting
regards

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