I switched from Nikon to Canon (am I the only one doing this too LOL) last spring before wedding season and did some research online... Really dug the specs on the 5D3 as well as the 600EX-RT flash system.

I made the jump and sold my Nikon kit which consisted of a D3s, D700, 3x SB-900, 24-70G, 70-200VR1, 14-24, and 50 1.4 I ended up buying a 5D2, 5D3, 5x 600 EX-RT, 35L, 85 1.8, 135L, 70-200L IS1, and 17-40. I really haven't looked back since and shoot 85% of the time wielding two bodies with the 35L and 85 1.8.

Here is what I love about the 5D3

The 600 EX flash system has changed the way I shoot, at any point during the day of a wedding I will have at least one additional light firing off-camera. What a wonderful system. It works flawlessly in group mode when I want to light up a reception hall with 2-3 lights. My only gripe is that it doesn't work the same with the 5D2. Canon claims it is the processor, but I think they just want to sell more new cameras

The 5D3 files I have shot look indistinguishable if not slightly better than my old D3s as well, which is a blessing given the smaller size. The ability to shoot smaller RAW files has also been a charm. During the reception and other boring parts of the day, I shoot away in mRAW as very few wedding clients need a 22MP file. Despite a smaller file size, I like to perfect WB and exposure (which usually needs very little tweaking)...

The focusing system is incredible in my opinion. People complain about it being confusing, but once you sit down and really put all the different focusing patterns and modes into practice, I rarely get an OOF shot even with a prime at ~f/2. Granted my keeper rate is much higher with the 70-200 f/2.8 IS, but I think that is just a function of focus speed with primes vs zooms, not anything to do with the camera. I did notice the camera focused a little slower with the 600EX AF assist beam, so I did a little test. I have my DOF preview button set to switch between SERVO>ONESHOT when I hold it down. I noticed that the camera focused much faster in SERVO mode without the AF assist beam (which it doesn't use anyway) even in very dim lighting. Now even in ONE SHOT, I only use the AF assist beam when it is absolutely pitch black which is almost never these days since video guys always have their annoying video lights on heh. From my experience using zone focusing/tracking, the 5D3 tends to get "thrown off" by objects in the background much less than any of my Nikons, even the D3s.

Perhaps the one "awful" thing about the 5D3 is the dark AF points in low light. My Nikon cameras always had a red square and it made moving AF points around in low light a breeze. I have learned to adapt to how my 5D3 works in this regard, but I am hoping for a FW update to remedy this at some point. Not keeping my hopes up, but it would be nice.

As far as dynamic range, maybe my exposures are just really nicely lit because of how often I use the off camera flash system. I don't really ever need to push or pull my RAW files more than 1EV, so maybe I'm not seeing this lack of dynamic range so many people have complained about. There are certainly merits to having more dynamic range, heck I wouldn't argue against it. For landscape and studio shooters, I'm sure the D800 is a better choice, but right now the 5D3 is the best camera I have ever used for a wedding, right ahead of the D3s.

So overall I really have nothing bad to say about the 5D3. I view it as a baby D3s. I shot just over 35 weddings this past season and it took only a couple jobs (second shooting for another studio in April) to get fully accustomed to the Canon controls. I actually prefer how ISO is changed on Canon bodies and I never even have to take my eye away from the finder. Despite some minor quirks here and there, the overall value of the 600EX-RT system more than makes up for anything I could complain about.

Am I just oblivious to problems or a lot of people just suffering from "the grass is always greener" syndrome because of the rave reviews the D800 gets on websites like DXO?

I can't find any company with more than 500$ insurance on camera(electronic) stuff around the globe (I will travel to Europe) (theft,loss etc ).. I'm kind of worried about this because I will bring for about 6000$ in gear . Is there someone who can help me with this? Thank you
I'm from Quebec, Canada so I don't think a USA insurance can cover me..

My wife was lost for a gift to for me this Christmas, after a discussion over lunch, we went and ordered a Lensbaby Composer for me...

Any users out there, any tips for a beginner ?

I see that hardly anyone is posting in the macro topic. Thought I would liven it up with a few water drop shots from the last week.


Magic Lamp by CalevPhoto, on Flickr


Barista by CalevPhoto, on Flickr


A Window Into It by CalevPhoto, on Flickr


The Goblet of Drops by CalevPhoto, on Flickr

Hi all, i am new to photography and this site. I have some questions that i would need some help with and hopefully some of you might be able to help me with. Please bear with me.

-am i right to say that the EF-S lenses do not work on the fullframe cameras
-What kind of difference are we talking about when we mount a regular EF lens as compared to a L lens on a fullframe camera
-Do the EF lenses maximize the full capacity of a fullframe camera as it does with the L lenses?
-How do i know what kind of third party manufacturer lens is compatible with a fullframe camera?

Thank you in advance!

Hi, I am putting together my upgraded camera kit for a trip to Antarctica and I have a 5D3 with 24-105 at the moment.

I feel this kit would be suitable: -

1. 5D3 with either Zeiss 21mm f2.8 OR Zeiss 18mm f3.5 OR PUSH IT TO Canon 14mm f2.8 ii ?
2. 100-400mm - maybe use a 7D for focal length?

Any thoughts at all from experienced people, especially Antarctica travellers/cold weather travellers but everyone's welcome

Thanks in advance.

Amit

Hi Folks,

I've seen some threads here recommending books on Flash/Lighting by Syl Arena.

I see two of them on Amazon:
Speedliter's Handbook: Learning to Craft Light with Canon Speedlites
http://www.amazon.com/Speedliters-Handbook-Learning-Craft-Speedlites/dp/032171105X/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pdT1_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=3V9PVCC4ABLEP&coliid=I17E21C6P3BT9O

and

Lighting for Digital Photography: From Snapshots to Great Shots (Using Flash and Natural Light for Portrait, Still Life, Action, and Product Photography)
http://www.amazon.com/Lighting-Digital-Photography-Snapshots-Portrait/dp/0321832752/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=3V9PVCC4ABLEP&coliid=I5H7D2FEKICZ7

Which of these would be best to read starting off? I'm thinking before the Canon incentives go away, before EOY...I might get one of the 600EX-RT's.....so, thought I'd read up on flash and general lighting (wanting to do a family portrait while home for xmas)....I'd do a little readin up on this subject before heading home, and even while at home during the down times...

Any other books/resources you think might be better? Especially if specific to Canon equipment?

Thanks in advance,

cayenne

Hello everyone,

This is my first time posting to the Canon Rumors forum, and I had an issue with a lens that I wanted to get some insight into and some advice on.

I purchased a refurbished EF-S 10-22mm wide angle lens a year or two ago from the Canon Refurbished store. I've been using the lens pretty regularly since I bought it. Recently I've noticed that the left side of pictures taken with the lens are really very soft, even stopped down (f 8 or 11 or so), and even when objects on the right sight of the picture (that are within the same plane) are sharper and in focus. I don't see the problem in earlier photos taken with the lens, and it does not require pixel-peeping to see the problem in the more recent pictures. I have never dropped the lens, and generally keep it stored in my camera bag, so if some sort of damage did occur I'm not sure what it would have been.

I know that wide angle lenses tend to lose resolution towards the edges and corners of the frame, but it is really the difference between the two sides of the images that leads me to believe it may be some sort of other problem.

Anyway, to get to the point, I was wondering: 1. What sort of defect or damage causes the sort of problem I'm describing? and 2. Has anyone sent a lens with a problem such as this to Canon and had it successfully repaired (and if so, do you recall about how much the repair cost)?

Thank you all for your help and advice!

Colleagues: I would request your advice on a 35 mm prime for Canon . I shoot 5DMkIII's and 1D Mark IV in challenging outdoor environments--dust, rain, sand--but am also a bug on sharp and contrasty lenses. Your thoughts on Canon's 35 L 1.4 vs. Sigma's 35 1.4? Thank you for your time.

My name is Maciej I not represent any company
I'm not spammer -

I wait for Canon company ( I need support engineer and tool ) I started in October

first 24 h test ( 6 oclock ,12:00 ,18:00, 24o)

first I made Earth's speed around sun 30 km/s ( 2.5 miles / sec ) = 30 000 000 mm /s

led move with Earth but light signal that "WAS SENT ! WAS ! " Not move with Earth around Sun

( light has zero mass or small mass )

Luminous Intensity is different when You make picture 30 km/s
compare to 220 km/s - Earth and Sun around galactica center

( the same led - the same energy but not the same distance in the same time )

dark filtre is very important


I would like to start cooperate with Canon ( my first picture I made Nikon 5000 but I'm open for better
test with Canon

On page I also show link to up sky automotive light system ( patent link )

( I also want to test my own new laser
system - we will be able use up sky signal in day )

all info about my discovery ( and why I call it discovery )

http://tesla2.blogspot.com/

My Canon EOS 650D (T4i) with 18-135 mm 1:3.5-5.6 IS STM lens, a few months old, sometimes does not shut down - approximately once in 500 switchings off. The camera continues to show on the LCD screen what was there before the shutting down attempt. In the picture, look at the position of the video-on-off switch and at the LCD screen - the screen should show nothing.

In this mode, camera does not respond to controls. The way around is to pull out the battery. And it looks like in this mode the battery power is consumed at a high rate.

Does anybody know whether a firmware update is coming? There is none on Canon's web site.

Remember this lens? I was wondering how it fares against the current 70-200 f2.8L. Just curious about the image quality of this lens. Anyone had experience with this lens please chime in. I wish Canon made their teles black >_<

Who Invented the Video Camera?

Back in May I upgraded from a Rebel XTi to a 7D with the anticipation that a new FF camera was going to come out sooner than later. I would sell my 7D and upgrade to whatever was nice and new. Sure enough, the 6D was announced. As a lot of people, I wasn't too thrilled with the initial specs of the 6D, but I am slowly starting to like what I'm reading.

I love the 7D. I think it's an amazing camera with one exception. I think it has too much noise. For that reason alone, I really want to upgrade. That being said, I'm not so sure I'll be happier with a FF camera. I mean, the build quality of the 7D seems really good to me and people are saying the 6D is closer to a 60D. Am I reading too much into this from a build quality perspective? I don't really need the fast fps, but it sure is fun to have. I am also worried about missing out on the advantage of having a cropped sensor. My walk around lens is the 70-200mm II. I love this lens. The pictures are extremely sharp and it has great clarity. Will this lens be even better on the 6D?

I know the images will look cleaner, sharper and nicer on the 6D. I mostly shoot landscape and people, but not really portraits. I do occasionally record video. Obviously I don't need a 5D3. I'm not a professional and I don't pay attention to every single feature of my camera. I'm still learning a lot and still getting used to shooting in manual+RAW. And I know a lot of people in here will laugh at me for this, but I use LR as a crutch to make my pictures look better while I get better at picture taking But hey, that's the truth.

I guess the bottom line is, I want really good image quality. I want it to look sharp, clear, and as little noise as possible. Here's are two pics I took with my 7D and 70-200mm II. Any critique is welcomed. Thanks!

I own the Canon 16-35L (and a bunch of other lenses for that matter), and basically I'd love som feedback on a choice I feel I'd like to make.

Either

1) keep the 16-35 and be happy with a really good all-round wide zoom which is quite sharp, has fast autofocus, and is often stuck on one of my camerabodies (mostly the 5D Mark II),

or 2) Sell the 16-35 and buy the following setup:

• Canon 14L 2.8 / Zeiss 15 2.8 / Rokinon(Samyang) 14 2.8 (autofocus not a must for me at this focal length)
• Canon 24L 1.4
• Sigma 35 1.4 (decided I prefer to get this one over the Canon 35L after reading reviews and seeing samples of image quality on FF

Setup is for full frame. Currently the 5D Mark II and III.

Keep the price out of this equation. I have just decided that if photography is what I want to do as much as I can, even if it's purely as a hobby, why not invest more in fast lenses, since I love the aperture versatility of 1.4s (and 1.2s for that matter).

Also, in theory I don't mind having more lenses to swap between in the 16-35 range if it means better glass and more possibilities in terms of lens speed. But what's your take on the combo of faster-glass-but-more-lenses-to-swap versus the walk-around-wide-zoom?

Has anyone else gone through this process, and do you have thoughts about making a change like this?

I am not going to keep the 16-35 . It doesn't make sense to me to have it if I buy the primes - even if it has a nice walk-around kind of versatility. I just have a feeling I wont use it with the primes hanging around.

Oh - and at these wider focal lengths I shoot mainly landscapes, night skies, and some action sports (snowmobiling, bmx).

Thanks!

Mads

I am rather frustrated with some of the shots I am getting, in particular when I have two subjects I want to get in focus, but the one closest to the camera only comes in focus?
Also what is a good setting for getting the whole frame in focus, I have only been get certain parts of an image in focus when I want to get everything in focus?
Please help
Thanks

Frame in the general area, press the focus square selection button (focus squares are bright and easy to see), move the desired focus square over the point you want to focus, press the shutter button halfway and the bright focus squares dissapear and you now achieve focus and metering - take picture.

I have only tried this in manual with flash attached and turned on.

Hope this works for others that were having the same problem as me. I just could not find my selected focus square (usually center spot) as they were very dim and only remained on for a split second, lock focus and then shoot. I hope Canon will give us a fix for this in the April firmware update. I never had this problem with my 7D.

Let me know if anyone else has any other ideas. Thanks

Hello I have the 60mm macro and will likely be upgrading to the 6d or 5diii in the next few weeks. I really like the 60mm macro but obviously vant use it with the 5d3. However I do have a t3i for work stuff and do use macro frequently.

So, I am trying to decide if I should I sell the 60mm and get the 50mm macro so I can use it on both the t3i and 5diii....or is the 60mm macro so much better than the 50mm on an aps-c body that I should keep it?

I eventually want the 100mm f2.8 l macro with is but that is about a year away...

Thanks!

I'd like to start doing macro photography, I'm not into faffing with flash, tripods and such, I like to handhold and shoot... I have a 135mm 2.0L and was pondering if I got a 100mm 2.8L macro, would I still use the 135mm ? It's currently one of the three lenses I use most. I'm aware of focal length change, but what about the look of the images ? The colour and soft focus areas, Is there a difference to the look when used as a normal telephoto at similar lengths to the 135mm ?

Looking for a good wireless shutter release remote that works with 5D3 and if possible with other EOS Bodies as well. Any advice is appreciated.

What do we have here???
I found this just browsing google, I've seen this on other sites but I've included this one for example.

http://www.flickriver.com/photos/mursu/4362751144/

What will we see happen to the lineup?

My opinion...

50mm 1.8 ii-ameuture's 50
($100)
----------------------------------

50mm 1.4 ii-consumer 50, but pro enough for people who need 1.4
($400-$600)

50mm 1.8 iii L-consumer/semi-pro lens, for people who need a sharp 50, but don't want to spend a ton of $$$ for a wider aperatures, but don't need it.
($700-$900)

These will probably be aimed at 6d users specifically, but will be good enough for pros who just don't need a 1.2, like the 24-70 f4 is l, and the new 24mm is and 28mm is. But it would be nice for canon to seperate a sharper lens for a wider-aperatures lens, in order to drop the price a bit.
-----------------------------------------
Canon 50mm 1.2 L ii-for the pros and bokeh whores.
($1,700-$2,000)

I understand this photo is probably a custom lens with a sticker and a modified mount, but it gets me thinking, and I'd like to see something like this.

Please leave your own dream list if you'd like.

Hey guys! Here is another one =-) this one I wrote and recorded the music too! Let me know what you think!

http://www.stockhammedia.com/2012/12/09/wedding-videography-jenna-eric/

Gear:

2x 5D mkIII
1x 7D
1x 60D

All my Lenses =-)

Glidecam HD 4000

2x Zoom H1

Couple Davis + Sanford tripods

Manfrotto Monopod

No extra lighting

Editing:
FCP X
Magic Bullet Looks

Hey folks i am wondering if there is any reason why Nikon Nikkor lens are significantly cheeper than Canon L glass at the super tele end. Im looking at the 400mm f2.8 and 600 f4's from both and the Nikkor versions are about £4000 cheeper.

Are the current Nikkor lenses quite old or just not as well built. Are there other factors (AF Speed/IQ/Weight) that would mean when upgrading my super tele on Nikon i could get a pro body and lens for the same as just upgrading my Canon Lens?

Please note i am not interested in what body is best just now, only lens quality of the 400 2.8 and 600 f4 range. And i would agree with anyone that says the Nikkor lens are not very ascetically pleasing.

Example
Nikkor 600mm F4 + Nikon D4 = £11269.99
Canon 600mm F4 II + Canon 1Dx = £15899.99

Using the ST-E3-RT is wonderful. Before going Canon RT I had a transmitter mounted to my Sekonic L-358 and fired my flashes via a receiver on the camera. That all changed with the Canon transmitter.

I now use Auto Reset Cordless Flash mode on my L-358. Carrying around the Transmitter was a pain when I needed two hands. I cut a spare mini stand (the one that comes with a flash) down to size and attached a spare Black Rapid connector. It now hangs from my belt or belt loop and I make all the adjustments at location. When done I just pop the transmitter on the camera.

This is my second mod. It was hard to lock the foot on the generic mini stand and I did not want to wreck the rubber seal. I cut up the foot that came with the flash and ordered a new one from Canon.