I am looking for a lightsensitive lens for indoors use.
I have some lenses i.e. 135mm f/2 L that are lightsensitive but very often its focal length is too much.

Personally I like the flexibility of having a zoom when taking photo's indoors since not always I know how much space there is. And, the lens should be easy to handle from size and weight point of view (so my 70-200 f/2.8 is less convenient here)

My budget is max. 1000 euro

The Canon 24-70 MK II L is not an option from pricing point of view. Neither is the Canon 85mm f/1.2 L

I am considering either the Tamron 24-70mm f/2.8 VC or the Sigma 85mm f/1.4
I know I know, I already own the 24-105 but this lens is my outdoors walkaround lens. So I don't mind overlap

Can anyone share his/her experience about the Tamron and/or the Sigma?
And, what would you do?

Just got a new 24-70 II and I must say that my initial images are, well, disappointing. I was hoping for something along the lines of the ridiculous sharpness of the 70-200 II. Sadly, what I'm seeing is much closer to my 28-135.

If you look at this .cr2 file in DPP (http://home.comcast.net/~sal6/BY5R6357.CR2), you'll see the focus point is the white and purple cluster of flowers. However none of the flowers in that cluster are what I would consider remotely sharp -- this was taken at 70 mm, 1/320 sec, with f/2.8, ISO 100. With those, I don't think it's the lack of IS.

All of the photos I've taken are like this, without regard to shutter speed (even up through 1/2000 @ f/2.8 (ISO 150)) -- also, this is actually one of the sharper ones.

Maybe AFMA will help. But I'd (naively?) expect an AFMA problem would mean that something, somewhere in the image would be sharper. I suppose it's possible that there's nothing at the right depth...

Thoughts?

Shawn L.

Hi I am hoping some of you guys could help me out!

I currently have the following equipment, canon 60d,Tokina 11-16mm f2.8, Canon EFS 17-55 f2.8, Sigma 50-150mm f2.8, canon 50mm f1.4, 580exii speedlite and a 430exii speedlite.

My question im hoping you guys can help me with is if i move to full frame i.e 5dmkii or 6d i will only be able to afford f4 lenses 24-105 or new 24-70 f4 and then a 70-200 f4 is to cover all the focal lengths i generally use. I have recently shot at a few weddings and have more interest from people to do the photography at theirs next year, however when in low light situations and not allowed to use flash in churches etc id like better noise performance. I find that iso1600 is the max i like to use on my 60d to achieve a decent shutter speed and a reasonably clean image, so this would become iso 3200 on a full frame camera using f4 instead of 2.8 right? So will i have cleaner images on the FF camera or will the extra stop of iso on f4 glass even out over a stop less on APSC using f2.8? Also will focusing become any different form the 60d with 2.8 glass to lets say the 6d with f4 glass?

Many thanks in advance your help and advice is very much appreciated!

Out of a session of roughly 200 photos all taken with my 5D Mark III (firmware 1.1.3) within 20 minutes, one or two of the files are corrupted on the SD card. This has happened to me a few times now with my 5D Mark III while doing paid work, and I've only noticed it happen randomly when using SD cards. (i.e. I have never witnessed this happening when using my CF cards.) For example, this morning I had this issue while using my SanDisk Extreme 32 GB SDHC Class 10 UHS-1 Flash Memory Card 45MB/s (SDSDX-032G-X46). The card was freshly formatted in-camera just before the session. Upon review, I discovered that the 184th and 185th files were corrupted, which could be readily seen on the camera's LCD. I brought them into Lightroom 4.2 to be sure, and the same problem could be seen.



When I tried to load up the most badly discolored image, Lightroom reported the following error:



So far, I've been able to just ignore the problem, delete the image, and move on, but I'm afraid this is going to bite me badly one of these days, and I can't figure out what can be done to prevent the issue. I think when I first got the 5D Mark III, I also had a video get corrupted such that it looked fine during the recording, but on playback, the video could not be displayed even though there was still audio (and the resulting MOV file was still huge). But there were too many variables for that project, so it's probably not helpful to try to draw any correlations.

If anyone is interested in inspecting the actual corrupted CR2 files, they can be downloaded at:

http://www.kennethphotography.com/files/canon/IMG_6034.CR2
http://www.kennethphotography.com/files/canon/IMG_6035.CR2

Thanks for any thoughts. I'd love to learn tips for preventing the problem or repairing the CR2 files.

it seems all of canons sharpest lenses have no IS.
is this co-incidence or is it because the addition of an IS system somehow negatively affects image quality?????

I know lenses start out high and eventually several hundred dollars drop off until the price stabilizes and pretty much sits. Anyone have any predictions on when it will start dropping and what the stabilized price will be? I am grabbing it in a week or so, so this question is more out of curiosity. I am not expecting it to drop anytime soon and want to get it ASAP.

I just shot this RE listing video on Sunday

http://www.stockhammedia.com/2012/11/07/6th-street-del-mar-real-estate-video-production/



I also shot photos for the same listing:
http://www.stockhammedia.com/2012/11/07/6th-street-del-mar-real-estate-photography/

Discuss the review of the Canon EF 24-70 f/2.8L II

Hello All,

I'm hoping you can help me make the right choice, I have been spending so much money on Batteries for jobs in the past, I just have so many old batteries laying around with half power in them, I use Double AA batteries for my 430 EXII speedlite, so I decided I need rechargeable batteries with a charger, but i know nothing about what kind are the best for the job, I need Long Lasting and good recycling times, can any of you help me with a few choices of Charger and Batteries?

Thanks so much in advance

Louis

Hi there,

First post for me here (although for years I've been checking it out every day)
I stopped using my 450d and ef-s lenses when I got my fujifilm x100 (which is awesome btw)
I'm mostly into street photography and the x100 gave me a great light-weight solution for my long trips abroad

However, now I want to go back to canon to experiment with some tele lenses/macro etc.
and since I cant imagine going back to my 450d I want to wait and buy the 6D (also light and good for street photography)

I love the x100's 35 equiv lens - I like shooting 90% of the time in 35mm.
So... im thinking of buying either a 35mm prime (either the new 35 f/2 IS or the new 35 1.4 sigma)
I heard not so great things about the bulky 35L and with 4 stops IS the new 35 f/2 the 35L has little to offer (or am i wrong)
the second option is to make the extra strach thinking longterm (family portraits/all purpose etc) and getting the 24-70 f/2.8 mkII

So I guess my question is as follows:
do you suppose that at 35mm the non L primes will outpreform the zoom
on one hand primes have usually better IQ however these are not L lenses and the new 24-70 f/2.8 suppose to be super-sharp.

any thoughts?

BTW- since I'm new you can see some of my pics at:
yoni_blau.500px.com

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/News/News-Post.aspx?News=3351
Prices are great IMHO but we'll see if they perform great later.

I'm not sure if this has been discussed before but I recently upgraded from Mark2 -> Mark3 and one thing that I noticed instantly was the improved colors/character in the RAW files compared to the Mark2. Not only do they look (according to my tase) more pleasing and vidid but the entire files seem more balanced and neutral yet punchy out of cam. It's almost like I don't need to color correct (which I ALWAYS need to do with the Mark2 files, even with accurate WB, there's a warm/reddish bias)

And when processing the Mark3 files further it only gets better. I'm not sure if this is thanks to a much better AWB or the new color filter, improved profiles or whatever. The last time I got this "feeling" straight out of cam was when shooting with the old classic 5D original - and that's a good sign! Of course, we are talking about subtle observations here but still to me very very noticeable - and I thought it would be fun to share and perhaps hear your opinions as well.

Cheers,

charlene b&w by Lseriesglass, on Flickr

charlene by Lseriesglass, on Flickr

Being a wide angle shooter with an occasional penchant for portraits, this lens seemed to fit the bill for me and despite it's hefty price, I'm convinced of it's excellence. I simply cannot believe how razor sharp it is at 1.4 let alone 2.8. Despite comments I've read to the contrary, this has the sharpness/clarity edge on the 35 1.4 (and I rate that lens very highly). The shallow DOF at that focal length has a particularly 'journalistic' effect which is truly wonderful.

Just thought I'd put it out there at how chuffed I am.

Sold!

I was thinking there is enough room there to make an adapter from EF to EF-M mount that incorporates tilt shift functionality especially if it had AF pass through, might be another cool piece of kit edmika could build
being able to use say a tokina 11-16 f2.8 with tilt shift functionality would be pretty cool on an EOS-M

Hello,

I own a Canon 7D, overall its a pretty good camera, but i find its AF performance in low light shooting conditions unsatisfactory for a semi-pro camera that is spec up to ISO3200.

To understand the low light shooting performance of Canon 7D (or other Canon DSLRs) under 'AI Servo' and 'One Shot' mode better, i tried out the following AF sensitivity test at http://eosdoc.com/manuals/?q=AFSensTest , with a Canon 50mm F1.4 lens and single point focus, center AF point.

It would be much appreciated if fellow Canon 7D owners out there could try out the AF sensitivity test too and comment which patch number is your camera able to focus down to, consistently, without hunting/hesitation when in 'AI Servo' and 'One Shot' mode?

Do note your patch number, f-stop, shutter speed and ISO setting. I use spot metering (center AF point) to obtain exposure readings.

From my test, I find that:
(i) the center AF point is most sensitive and can achieve clean focus (no hunting/hesitation) in lower light conditions better than all the other AF points.
=> this is probably due to the higher sensitivity (2 times more sensitive?) center AF point.

(ii) With single center AF point, 'Single Shot' mode, I can achieve clean focus (no hunting/hesitation) down to about patch no. 8 @ 1/60s, f1.4, ISO 1600 (= EV 3).

(iii) With single center AF point, 'AI Servo' mode, I can achieve clean focus (no hunting/hesitation) down to patch no. 35 @ 1/60s, f1.4, ISO 800 (= EV 4).
=> Performance is much poorer in 'AI Servo' mode compared to 'One Shot' mode. About 1 stop lower AF performance compared to 'Single Shot' mode in my test.

Canon specifies EV -0.5–18 for the 7D AF sensitivity.
How is this derived?
My test result seems to indicate (my) 7D is not performing within this range.

I would prefer/like to use 'AI Servo' focus mode for low light shooting situations, especially for (slow) moving subjects, but the Canon 7D 'AI Servo' focus does not seem to be able to cope well with it at all, leaving me with no choice but to use 'One Shot' focus, hopefully, for with better results (very frustrating to get moving subjects in focus), although the camera's image sensor (ISO performance) can still cope with the available light level.

Have a go at the test, I look forward to hearing from you on your test results and comments.
Is your Canon 7D (or other Canon DSLRs) AF having similar (or better!) AF performance characteristics?

Thanks.
Ken

HI,
I have the 28-135 that I use for video, but also for stills.
The quality of my copy is pretty decent (also thanks to lightroom CA very good correction), but definitely is not at the professional grade.
What do you think is better?
1) sell the 28-135 and buy the 24-105
2) sell the 28-135 and buy the new 24-70 f4 (no 105, but better macro, sharpenss and IS then solution 1)
3) just buy the 24-70 f4 and use it for stills, while using the old 28-135 for video and as a backup

What do you think?
thanks

Stefano

How about a poll on what lenses, especially those rumored, that people most want to see next.

Where are the EF 60 & EF 200L macros and especially 14-24 [even though I'm afraid of what it'll cost]?

Hey ya'llll

Was anyone else surprised this morning when you saw the price for the 24-70mm f4. (I was expecting a 800-1000, not 1499)

I also heard there was a chance that it may be the new kit lens for the 6d. Any chance that it still might? Or will they keep the 24-105? I'm assuming because of the price they will.

Otherwise you're saving 600 on the lens when you buy the 6d. Unless they up the kit lens price.

I have an APS-C setup with the 7D and 10-22 and 17-55 2.8. I have considered moving to FF with the recent reduction in prices of the 5DII and the 6D being announced, but here's the dilemma:
1. I am quite happy with the IQ of the 7D up to ISO 1600, but the noise above that is bad. So indoor photography without flash suffers. That is the main reason for my FF considerations.
2. I am aware that if I move to FF, I will have to trade my EF-S lenses for FF equivalents. My lenses will hold their value and I can get the 24-105 and 17-40 without losing any money (cannot afford the 24-70 II). But while the 24-105 is very good lens, I am not so sure about the 17-40. I didn't like the copy I owned (and I used it on a 5DII as well). And, I cannot afford the 16-35 II. Additionally, if I use f/4 after moving to FF- what do I gain over using f/2.8 in APS-C?
3. I did like using the 5DII for the short time I had it and the images were very nice, especially since I almost exclusively use the center AF point, but I do use the high-speed mode a lot on my 7D and I will certainly miss it (and again, cannot afford the 5DIII).

So given these circumstances, is there something I would gain by going FF with a 5DII/6D with a 24-105/17-40 (that offsets my loss of fps) or should I wait until I can afford the 5DIII/24-70II/16-35II? I am sure many of you have gone this route- your advice will be greatly appreciated.

Hi Everybody!

I just sell my 24-70L and get a 35L, I love the new lens but I'm missing a fast prime between 35L and 135L...

Sigma 85 1.4 have stellar reviews, fast focus, excellent IQ... and the canon 85L... well, its the 85L , the only issues are price and focus speed (maybe weight, but I really don't mind that).

Has anyone tried both?

The canon focus is really that slow?

How those lenses focus in the dark?

I already have searched a lot of reviews, but I want some experiences from people of this forum

Well, that has an attention-getting title, doesn't it?

Reikan is looking into the possibility that the 60D's lacking of MFA is only in the UI software.

I wanted to start this thread in case they DO get any traction and need test data or something else (I've been bugging them for a while).

I'm not sure if they're held up on reverse-engineering the software or if they actually need bodies for testing. They're in the UK; Greg told me they're located in the south, near Poole/Bournemouth.

I'll post back if I hear anything else, OR if they are looking for any bodies etc. (and people are willing to loan them one).

I plan on buying the set. Is anybody using these strobes?
Is the difference between A and S only in shutter speed or there is something else hidden behind A and S?

What softboxes would you recommend for it? I plan on buying one octa, one square.
Would you go with Elichrom softboxes or there are some 3rd party that are good enough and cheaper?

A Straight forward poll.

Edit: I just got my 24-105L from Ebay for 750$. I'm really digging it, My copy is a razor. Check out this little quick shot of the lens cap.

Jpeg straight from camera.

F/4 - 1/15 - ISO 800

I wanted to order the 600 at Amazon and give them a shipping address later. Am attaching the online chat. Am not satisfied.

Me:Hello!
I want to buy a lens: Canon 600mm II right now. BUT I want you to hold on to it and ship it later when I send you an address. Is that acceptable?
Saket :Hello, my name is Saket. I'll be happy to help you today.
Me:Namashkar
Saket :I am really sorry It will not be acceptable but You can place the order and You will not face any problem
Me:How can I place an order without a shipping address? Thx
Saket :I am sorry but You can use any friend address to place the Order as the deals and the price which is reflected on the site are subjected to change '
so I am not able to do promise for that
Me:Ah. See I am ready to buy it now. Pay for it in full. And then later give you an address to send it to.
Saket :SANJAY ,How can be this possible when you place the order It goes for shipping and the item for which you place goes for packing and then it goes for delivery
so It will not be possible to hold the package
Me:Ok thanks...