Strangely I couldn't find any professional review of the 6D (by pro I my something like DPreview), not the usual Youtube unboxing, or the blog type hands on. Something with a bit more info than it's small, has 20Mpx and the Wifi.

This is very odd since it seems a lot of people got their camera, and still, no official review yet ?

I you have links, please post....

Got my Canon 6D today (from Profeel.com, I think they still have them in stock). Ran it down to the beach to do some test shots, just messing around. As it got darker I started bumping up the ISO, and even got a few in the 25600 Range. I am more than a little impressed. Will do some head to head tests against the D600 soon.

the pictures are posted here http://www.michaelthemaven.com/?postID=2573&canon-6d-high-iso-noise-tests-impressive

Ill be testing out the Wifi Features tomorrow (from what I saw tonight...they are impressive. Say goodbye to tethered shooting!)

MM

This boat was about 2+ miles away, I was shooting it handheld with the 100-400 zoom on the 6D.

Not at all pretty, and I am sure there is some motion blur between my holding it and the waves...but as far as the noise itself goes...wow

A beautiful piece imho.

http://www.joemcnally.com/blog/2012/12/03/a-pros-pro/#more-10805

I just found this graphs of what gear pros are shooting. By pros I means the ones who contributed their picture to the list of the best Reuters photos of the last year.
Also interesting to see what settings they are using.

https://docs.google.com/document/pub?id=1A9U6JVLnh0cCeWzabq03buSY26MA0CvYYJ68WquT7YM

Hey guys, what's your dream lens?
Feel free to say 14-24, or 24-70 is 2.8, but I want to hear some specialized ones, like fantasy lenses. Please don't post a whole lot, or re-post rumors, this is just for fun, and don't be ridiculous, canon could get some nice ideas. Ex. 1mm-5200mm f1.2 is usm STM p an cake...lol

Mine, canon ef 50mm 0.95 l usm, full metal construction, and 24-70 ii, 200mm f2, and 135 f2 like glass!!!

Sitting on a Leica m design canon ff mirror less camera.

Hi, I've posted on here before about my dilemma about upgrading from T2i to either the 7D or 5D2 (mainly just to have a 2nd body to carry). I shoot pretty much anything. I'm leaning towards the 5D2, but I was wondering how it is with macro. I love having the extended reach of my crop sensor T2i and I was just wondering if I would miss that on macro shots with the 5D2. I know I would still have the T2i but I'm sure I would have the 5D2 with me alot more. I like to just go for walks looking for bugs and small items to shoot (hand held). I was leaning towards the 7D because I shoot wildlife, but I don't really need the extra fps so I don't think I need it too much over my t2i. I do enjoy landscapes so the 5d2 would be nice. I'm just curious about it's macro capabilities.

Thank you

All Canon: T2i, 100mm macro, 24-70 2.8, 100-400L, 50 1.4, 10-22

Why are so many people confused about the focal length(s) of APS-C lenses? For example, I have the Canon 18-135mm APS-C lens. For some reason, people think that you have to multiply it by 1.6 for the "correct" focal lengths of 29-216mm. The conversion factor does not apply to APS-C-only lenses. If an APS-C-only lens says its 18-135mm, then it is 18-135mm. If an APS-C-only lens says its 57mm, then its 57mm. Even B&H, in the product description, makes the error by saying its equivalent to 29-216mm.

I have a 7D and I really like it but I wanted FF and needed low light capabilities so I recently purchased a 5DmkIII. I have probably taken less then 500 images but I noticed something that is frustrating to me and hopefully someone can tell me what I am doing wrong or what I can do?
So I use Av almost 100% of the time and on the 7D I use the 19 AF points in AL servo mode which gives me very quick way to capture a candid picture. So now on the 5DmkIII if I want to use the 61 AF points I need to run in A+ mode eliminating any ability to adjust for serious backlight or personalization whatsoever on the images. (who buys a $3000 camera and runs it full auto mode?) I have taken several quick candid shots and the subject has been entirely out of focus since the focus point did not line up with the subject. I know I can to focus groups but they still represent a small portion of the FF and eliminate the ability to use the FF for quick candid shots. So if you want to criticize me that is fine just help me to resolve my issue or provide a suggestion or two.

Tx
Polarized

1) 200mm f2 is
2) canon 24mm 1.4 ii
3) canon 35mm 1.4
4) canon 50mm 1.2
5) canon 85mm 1.2 ii

have owned the 20, 40 and 60D, the Rebel xsi and now T4i/650D.

Plan was to use my 60D as primary for "serious" work, T4i as backup/walk around camera.
Main advantage of T4i for me before I bought it -Light weight.

Now after 5 days, here's some surprising comparisons as far as handling. I'm enjoying the T4i more than the 60D, only missing a few things.

Pro's T4i vs 60D
1. Lighter
2. Touch screen...loving it, esp in live view.
3. Live View Operation..pretty much ignored it on the 60D. Def. faster, more user friendly(not perfect) on the
Rebel.
4. Shooting speed. Seems as fast on the T4i, I know that the 60D is a hair faster per spec.
5.Focus Speed...again, this is my perception, the T4i seems faster w/any lens.
6. Shutter sound. the 60D seems louder/clankier, which was an unpleasant surprise when I got it. It scares the birds and squirrels away

Neutral
Overall ergonomics: I thought I'd really miss the rear control wheel from the D series. The way the exposure comp button is placed really mitigates that. Plus the huge ISO button on top.
Movies: don't really care.

Cons

Things I miss from the 60D
1. ISO in between settings. T4i only has 400, 800, 1600
2. less flex with the quality settings. Can do either RAW or JPG or RAW+Large Fine jpg. Don't have all the permutations and combinations.
3. Do miss the rear wheel dial a bit.

I see that the 60D on sale now is just a bit more than the Rebel. If I were picking one, it would be the Rebel.

on IQ, I have no comments yet. Can't really tell the difference with the RAW files I've seen so far.

Hey everyone, this is my first post so you'll have to forgive me if it overlaps with a previous topic!

I currently still use my trusty 50D, it has served me quite well but I'm slowly bumping into more of it's restrictions. I'm not completely decided if I want a 6D or a 5D3 but probably 5D3.

Anyway, I've been aiming at a full frame body since I started photography so both my lenses are L's, the 24-70 2.8 and the 70-200 2.8 IS v1. I bought both these lenses second hand and I'm not completely sure if I aquired sharp copies or not, hard to judge if you've never used other copies.
My question is, will these lenses still be able to obtain the maximum from a 5D3?

A three minute exposure, ND filters, focus point adjustments and a load of other stuff in the camera and no use of photoshop to get the exact exposure matched to the bridges opening. Never seen this done on the bridge before so im well happy.

Hello all,

Another thread I had on here, concerning monopods, leads me to ask on this thread..which way is the best way to go, with regards to QR systems?

I've started off with the Manfroto QR that came with my tripod.

I believe it is this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Manfrotto-323-Connect-Adapter-200PL-14/dp/B001ASU1QO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1354562188&sr=8-2&keywords=manfrotto+quick+release

I found this was not a great choice when trying to work with anything non-manfroto. I've gotten a steady cam system I was trying to work with...this plate with the release lever...is too low and doesn't really work on the steady came, as that it won't attach flat on the steady cam mount.

On the monopod thread it was suggested that I look at a more 'universal' QR system, the Arca Swiss type?

Is this truly something that will fit more tripids, monopods....and I have one of the Rhino sliders on the way soon...and will need a mount system for that, ...so, I think I'm at the point to figure which way to go, and the sound of something being more 'universal' is appealing to me.

Can someone give me the pros and cons of what you use...what is recommended and why?

Is the Arca the way to go? Is there only one type/model of these that I should get and does it fit with most any pieces of photo equipment out there?

For video and stills usage?

Thanks in advance,

cayenne

Adorama's website is saying that "a firmware update for EOS 5D Mark III is scheduled to be available in April 2013." What are the rumors for the forthcoming update?

Just wanted to share a few thoughts on the 6D, given all the negativity about it, specifically why I'm interested in getting one. I shoot primarily with a 5D Mark II. I use my camera for snapshots sometimes, but mainly for landscape work and travel. On my honeymoon I took a minimalist approach and we just brought my wife's Rebel T2i with us to Kaua'i. I shot with it a bunch and enjoyed the lightweight and simplicity. When I got back from the trip, I thought about investing in my own Rebel package for travel, but never got around to it, mainly because it would likely involve some new lenses in addition to a body.

When I started looking at the EOS 6D, just out of curiosity, I quickly realized how it would fit the bill well for travel. The main complaints I see around the web, including in forums here, are about the autofocus. A couple thoughts on this: first, during the film era, only the highest-end cameras had a large amount of autofocus points, 45 on the 1V and 3V. The last ELAN to be released had 7 points. 7. Just because you can put more autofocus points into a body doesn't mean you need to. I have 9 autofocus points on my 5D Mark II. I shoot with one. I only shoot with one on my 20D. No, I don't do sports, no I don't photograph children at play. I tend to believe, though, that a camera is a tool and different tools are designed for different purposes. I think that the 6D's autofocus system is going to be perfect for me AND represents an advancement for Canon. Second, people married to numbers may be surprised by the concept that there's more to an autofocus system than points. The 6D can reportedly autofocus in -3EV conditions. That's a one stop improvement over the 5d Mark III and a two stop improvement over the 5D Mark II. I fail to see how this is an antiquated system.

Additionally, for travel and many other applications, size and weight matter. The fact that Canon placed a full frame sensor into essentially a 20D body is impressive to me. With a prime on it, I could shoot with that thing for a week straight. I would surmise that travel is where most people's home SLRs get the most use and that's what the 6D is, a high-end consumer SLR. In my opinion, it's the best SLR camera on the market for travel for these reasons. It's also telling that it was released near a lightweight L zoom and an image stabilized fast wide prime, two perfect companions on a trip to Europe.

Before some accusations start flying, I'm not a Canon apologist. If I were buying my first digital camera today, I'd buy a Nikon. But if I were an amateur photographer with a D5100 and one or two lenses and, like many camera owners, tended to only take pictures when traveling, the 6D would hold a lot of allure.

Maybe we need to get away entirely from the direct Nikon/Canon comparison? I talked with a pro landscape guy recently who shoots with the D800 and he said he wishes Nikon had an offering comparable to the 5D Mark III that he could supplement his D800 with. He didn't say, "I wish my camera had the same features," rather he saw them as different tools. I think with lenses, top of the line cameras, and entry level cameras, comparisons are easily justifiable and they typically are designed for parallel purposes. But for the camera bodies in between, I think we all need to keep an open mind that different camera owners use their tool for different reasons and Nikon and Canon are both actively doing market research to find niches for new tools for our toolboxes. All this said, the 6D may very well fall victim to Canon's failure to differentiate the 6D from the D600 through active marketing, and that is definitely a problem.

I'd appreciate any thoughts you all have on what you look for in a camera for travel and whether you agree that the 6D is well suited for that purpose.

Santa, if you're reading this (Santa's a Canon fan, right?), please bring me a 6D on Christmas.

Hi all,
I've been shooting with a 60D (my first dSLR) since 2010 or 2011, and am naturally considering going FF. The thing is, everybody asks, "will I benefit from going FF?", and the answer is more likely "yes" -- although it sure depends on the photographer and his/her uses for the camera. What we seldom know is, do these folks who upgraded and now have better gear take better pics now, or is it all the same? For how many of them has upgrading made significant difference?
So I ask you FF shooters: what is it that you can do nowadays with you FF that you would no longer be able to do if you downgraded to crop?
Hope it doesn't sound too crazy -- it makes sense in my mind...
Cheers

Hello all,
Im trying to convince my talented photographer friend to switch from her outdated Olympus dslr to a Canon 5D Mark II (She cant afford the extra for the MkIII).
Here simple question was "do professionals use the MkII?".
I said lots and jumped on google but found it impossible to find a list of famous professionals who currently or recently used this camera.
So if you know of any please reply with name and link to they're site if possible and I'll compile a list

Cheers
Stu

trying to figure out but no clue

https://vimeo.com/54734715

I took these shots over the last week while playing with my Stopshot controllers.


Dressing Up by CalevPhoto, on Flickr


Jacob's Ladder by CalevPhoto, on Flickr


Tower Landing by CalevPhoto, on Flickr

Hi, long time reader and first time poster here.

My current lens setup for weddings is a 24-105, 50, and a 70-200 on a 1.3x body and 1.6x as a backup/2nd body. I'm considering swapping the 24-105 for a 16-35 ii. Anybody use a 16-35, 50, and 70-200 setup and are happy with it?

I love my 24-105, and it produces some very nice images, but I have found that it is leaving me wanting more on the wide end (especially with a 1.3x body) and in low light. Also, while my 70-200 produces very nice, sharp portraits with great bokeh and my 50mm works well indoors with low light and is good for subject isolation, I'm just not getting many images with the "wow" factor out of the 24-105. And with every bride's mother running around with a rebel and a kit lens, I'm definitely having to produce lots of those "wow" images to make clients happy. Looking back, most of the pictures made with the 24-105 are at the wide or long end too.

So while I know the 16-35 will produce those amazing wide-angle shots, will it be worth it to lose those focal lengths between 35 and 50 as well as 50 and 70?

Hi,

My wife is giving birth in July and I will have a 6D by then to take pics of the kid.

My only question is when to buy. Is it likely that the 6D will drop in price from Dec. 2011 to July 2012? If so, I will wait...

Or is Canon like Apple, and will not likely lower the price (e.g. I bought an iPhone4 an unnecessary 7 months after it first came out hoping for a price drop, which never happened).

Just curious if you have any insight based on Canon's pricing history. Much appreciated, thanks!

First off I want to note how overjoyed I am with the C100. Canon Log mode is awesome, and the integration and quality when paired with the Atomos Ninja 2 external recorder is breathtaking. The C100 seems completely designed around the Ninja 2 to the point that I am never going to use the internal SD cards as anything other than safeties. Media for both are cheap as chips and batteries for both are too, which is refreshing given the absolutely professional results recording this sensor (the same as in the C300 and C500) in Canon Log mode to ProRes 422 HQ at 220Mbps. The ergonomics and build is just a joy...this is what it should be like, no more mussing with DSLRs or fiddly cheap camcorders or overweight and overpriced and high maintenance pro cams. Lovely. Pleased as punch.

If you want great quality 1080p24 video with the lowest pain-in-the-arse factor ever, buy a C100 and Ninja 2 and use Canon Log with View Assist to ProRes HQ. Use custom white balance, use the NDs instead of dropping below the native ISO of 850, and expose for the highlights. Compose your shot and follow focus using the various focus assist features of the C100 and/or Ninja. You're all set, your video will be captured beautifully with full use of the 12 stops of dynamic range, there'll be no transcode time into your Mac-based NLE, and all options for pulling a custom look will be available in post without penalty. For all this, the total cost of ownership of the camera and recorder, plus enough battery power and storage for six hours of continuous shooting time without an offload, is just $8000.

Nothing else touches that at this quality, at this low-light capability, and with this build and workflow/ergonomic factors. For pro-level cameras from RED or Sony you are looking at $8000 just for a few hours' worth of the media.

Now the praise indicated, let's get right down to what sucks.

First of all, there's no slo-mo at all. You can shoot at PF30 (a'la 30p wrapped for HDMI) and get subtle slomo conforming to 24p, but the FS700's 240fps for 1080p, while limited to 10 second bursts, is real slomo. Other than that you can have the FS700 I don't want one.

There's only 1080p. It's a very well done, high res 1080p when recorded on the Ninja. But there is no opportunity for cropping in post to recompose a shot while maintaining full 1080p resolution as there is on a 2.5K or 4K camera. Cropping is a side effect of smoothcam-style stabilization in post among other things, which you might think such a relatively compact camera would be used for.

The rolling shutter jello is still a problem on this as most CMOS cams, it's not so bad but it's not so terrific either.

The built-in viewfinder is a joke. Usable only in a pinch. The Zacuto EVF is a nice plus, though awfully low-res. Zacuto has made a loupe for the onboard screen but it looks fiddly to me and not as solid a solution as theirs for the 5D3. I am getting a Hoodman cover for the Ninja to see if that helps in sunlight. Atomos is supposedly developing a sunshade or loupe for the Ninja as well.

There is no digital level as there is on the 5D3 and even RX100. Getting a shot level is quite important in film when you are operating with only 2MP of resolution. Back to spirit (bubble) levels then?

The side-grip is the same as for the C300. It feels nice but it's hollow and resonant and the buttons and aperture dial are quite noisy for film use. The handle should be filled with acoustic dampener (I may try) and the dial declicked.

You can remove the side-grip and put a thumb rest in its place, but if you do, there's no way at all to adjust the ISO/gain. For some inexplicable reason they did not include ISO+/ISO- in the list of things you can assign custom buttons for, and as it is you must use the joystick to set ISO. You can set the Iris+/Iris- to buttons instead of joystick, but that's also fiddly. You also can't assign the four joystick directions and press to other buttons, which would let you simulate the joystick on buttons 1-6. So they want to get you used to having the side grip always on there even though they picture the camera without it on their own product page, perhaps to make it look less like a DSLR.

The Mag (#7) focus assist button is right next to the joystick like we enjoyed on all DSLRs prior to the 5D3 (which inexplicably banned its use). It works very nicely, allowing peaking and even monochrome focus assist while recording (without showing up even on the external recording). However, inexplicably, the zoom location can't be moved around in the frame like you can on the DSLRs. How hard would that have been? Since this wasn't on the C300 firmware either, my speculation is they explicitly banned it from the C100 firmware until the new C300 firmware is published, so as to not infuriate C300 owners.

Several buttons that I would use only rarely (e.g. Status and Custom Picture etc.) are for some reason not assignable. ??? You need a button to reassign to take stills, and you have to assign Headphone +/- to buttons or else be stuck menu diving. So why not allow all the buttons to be reassigned?

The internal mics on the top handle are quite poor. A Rode Stereo VideoMic Pro is highly recommended by me as an add-on, and as a further benefit, it can be plugged right into the Ninja, which will happily record 4 channel audio direct into the ProRes .MOV, using the 2 channel XLR preamps (with 48V or line options) or the 3.5mm jack on the camera body for the other two sources. The Rode is also smaller and lighter than the top handle if you want audio while staying minimal. the XLR preamps on the top handle are fine enough.

You can't monitor video waveform and audio record level at once, it's either or. I would like to have a view that is all waveform/scope and also offers the audio, and rely on the Ninja or external EVF for the image.

There are no odd frame rate settings or internal timelapse like on the C300. I guess they had to cut something.

The custom white balance setting is essential and will be in constant use, but for some reason they decided they want the whole frame to be white/gray to set it, rather than just a spot in the center of the frame like e.g. Sony uses. It can be hard to fill a frame with a neutral card with the right light, that would require a camera move or zoom that may be difficult. Please give us spot white balance customizing.

White balance indicators "A" and "A" are...uhm...a bit identically named for such different things, no? Why not use "1" and "2" instead of A and B for the custom settings.

Continuous Autofocus right now is on the pitiful level of the T4i, not even. But they say they are working on that. It's not a priority for most filmmakers, but if you're going to do it for your new STM line, please do it right.

Physical points of weakness for the hardware include the plastic door on the top handle, the tiny pins on the camera side of the EXT jack, and the plastic casing around the battery compartment. Otherwise (neglecting the common sensitive points like the sensor and LCD screen) it's very well designed and built and should last a long time.

Which I intend to use it for, the remainder of the 1080p era. It's a veritable footage shovel, with the great low-light, built-in NDs, integrated handles and ergonomics, not to mention the great quality and workflow the Ninja provides...I'm all set for 1080p24 capture. I would appreciate Canon's attention to these concerns which largely can be resolved in firmware updates, and for a professional product should be. Thank you.

hey guys, before i make the buy, does anybody have any expierience with the af of an old rebel with a 70-200 f4 is and a 1.4x converter? if it doesnt work, the ill just fork up the cash for the new tamron.

if i have to go for the tamron, what extender should i get, a kenko, or the tamron???