One friend of mine is offering his 1DS3 at around $2K. Shutter count at around 35K. Should I take the bait or get something else or wait for the vaunted 6D? I admit, it is very, very tempting... I haven't used any FF so I need your help experts. Intended use will be mainly for landscapes, macros and portraits. Sports usage will be minimal.

Gir National Park, India

Canon 7 D
Tv( Shutter Speed ) 1/1600
Av( Aperture Value ) 5.6
ISO Speed 1600
Lens EF100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM
Focal Length 400.0mm

Gir National Park, India. The only place in the world for Asiatic Lions in wilderness. With about 400+ lions.

There was a pride of 15-18.....all gender and all ages......................feeding on a day old kill of a Gaur belonging to the tribals in the vicinity of the reserve . Crows were haunting the place for their turn. Lighting was very tricky with light and shadows under trees. Squatted in the jeep with knees for support.

Canon 7 D in RAW
Tv 1/80
Av 5.6
ISO Speed 640
Lens EF100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM
Focal Length 400.0mm

So, I did some searching on the forum a bit. Is the consensus that pretty much any m42->EF adapter w/AF confirm chip from Ebay will be just fine? I see a lot of really cheap ones, like $7 and such. Are there any that are known to be higher quality? I'd be happy to pay a decent bit more to have a high quality adapter.

Hi guys,

This is my first post on this website, I think this is a very nice forum!

Do anybody knows when approximately we should expect a magic lantern software on the newest rebel, t4i ?

It's been months now that this camera have been released...

Thanks,

My present gear is 7D, 5D2, 70-300L, 24-105L, Zeiss 18 and Zeiss 50 plus Kenko 1.4 TC. I have about £1000 in my camera fund which is sort of earmarked to upgrade the 5D2 to a 5D3. ( Subject of course to the 45 mp camera not becoming available in two weeks time at £2000 and waiting to see what else might just be around the corner).

But wonders of wonders I have a little old pension policy about to mature which will generate a little extra for the camera fund without my wife getting too excited about it ( say £2000) and early in the new year I might trade down my car which might also add £2000 to the fund.

So happy days!

I am a pure hobbyist, mainly taking pics of my kid doing sports and general family and travel pics. So the 7D and the 70-300 are non negotiable as is the Zeiss 18 but after that how best to spend my ill gotten gains? It needs to be something special.

Thinking the 1 Dx is just too big and showy for what it adds compared with the 5D3 plus lenses?
Thinking people like the new 24-70 but given its price does it really add much for me compared to the 24-105 given how much I love the Zeiss at the wide angle?

Thinking I don't like the 100-400 at all and sold a copy a while ago.
So does it come down to a choice between the 135 and 400 5.6 or the 70-200 II IS. + 2 X TC III ? Or if both boats come in do I go for a real super tele?

What would everyone suggest? ( PS I am a Yorkshireman so don't need to spend all the camera fund even if it is there.....) Of course there those telling me I should ditch the Canon FF stuff and buy the D800 but I am not convinced.....

Hi Everybody,

There was a time when SLRs were fully manual. They usually had a shutter (T) dial, and the lens had an (A)perture ring.

A mode dial was needed as soon as automatic exposure was introduced. Cameras could have M, Av, Tv, and P modes.
P obviously controlled A and T.

DSLRs added (automatic) control over (S)ensitivity, but the mode dials on the DSLRs still reflect the modes from film SLRs. ISO (S) is treated different from A and T.

In my opinion, this gives a bad user interface:

P: should control everything (A, T, S), instead S might be set to a fixed value

M: should be manual, instead S might be automatic.

Av and Tv should preset only one value (A or T), instead S might be preset or not


Instead of four modes (M A T P), a DSLR should have 3^2 = 8 modes: M A T S AT AS TS P
If I want to have these 8 modes on a mode dial, is a very different question.

When I just googled what the 'v' in Av an Tv stands for, I came across the Pentax K5. Apparently the Pentax people think like I do. this camera has 6 modes on the dial: M, TA, A, T, S, P


What do you think? Do you like the 'logic' in Canon's mode dials?


Best regards,
bbb


-

I just AFMA'ed my 24-70ii the third time (i.e. Each time fine tuning both tele and Wide till I nailed both). +5 on the Wide and +6 on Tele with my 5d3.

The Issue I have is, the sharpness at 24mm has a lot to be desired... 70mm is fine I guess, but I had higher hopes for a $2300 lens... is this it or do i have a dud on my hands?

Pls see 100% crops of 24mm and 70mm below and let me know what you think... if all seems ok, I can send shots of the corners which are even more disappointing...

EDIT: Added MF shot
Third shot is MF @ 24mm

My first time shooting any kind of sport with my 5D Mk II. Was limited to what I could capture since I was shooting with a 24-105. Here are a few of the shots I liked (w/minimal PP in Lightroom).


IMG_0672 by Joe Beckwith, on Flickr


IMG_0673 by Joe Beckwith, on Flickr


IMG_0634 by Joe Beckwith, on Flickr


IMG_0545 by Joe Beckwith, on Flickr

Hi,

I'm casual photographer and currently using 550d, sigma 30 f1.4, canon 85 f1.8, 24-105L, 430 EX2 and YN-560 II. I'm planning to upgrade to FF and my target is 5dm2. After announcement of 6D and D600 i plan to wait first and have read lot of 6D vs D600 spec comparison. Some say D600 have better spec and 6D wifi+gps is marketing gimmick only. So, there will be at least 3 flavor to choose and hopefully the basic 6D will be $1900.

Maybe 6D basic =1900, +GPS= 2000, +GPS+wifi=2100

Possible?

And the centre AF point will be cross (+) f5.6 with additional line f2.8 (I) and much better AI Servo (with custom tracking as 7d,5dm3) compare to 5dm2

A little history to begin with. I have a 60D and previously owned a 70-200mm f/4L USM and it was ok. It didn't seem like a significant jump in image quality from my 55-250mm IS. Yes, I have faster shutter speeds, lower iso, and better bokeh (not to mention the size of the 70-200 drives the ladies wild... I assume... only guys ever comment about the size of the lens).

I decided to upgrade to the 70-200mm f/2.8 and I'm still not wowed. Not the way I am when I use my 100mm f/2.8L macro USM. I was considering getting a 200mm f2.8L prime, but thought the 70-200 would be more usable for a variety of situations. I've also considered getting a 135mm f/2, but that seems too redundant to have with my 100mm L macro.

So the other day I was shooting at 1/400th of a second because it was a really cloudy day and I was losing shots left and right (though in retrospect I should have taken off the CPL filter earlier and I should have bumped the iso up from 100 to 1200). So I take full blame for that, but the images I lost really irked me. I assumed incorrectly that 1/focal length would be sufficient (200x1.6=320 = shutter speed >1/320. Nope).

Then yesterday it was a cold sunny day, so I took some shots without the CPL and some shots with. I normally shoot in aperture priority, but today I decided to go freestyle and shoot in manual. Iso was between 320 and 640. And my shutter speeds were 1/2000 and 1/8000 of a second. And I'm still not happy with the result. I've heard that the 70-200 is tack sharp between 70-135, and I have quite a few of the shots within that range, and I'm not blown away.

The first two shots are Lightroom adjusted images adjusted from raw for the cloudy day with the 1/400 to 1/500th day. The 2nd set are untouched jpegs from the sunny day with the cpl and up to 1/8000 of a second. I was shooting in raw and I adjusted some of those, but not to the point where I was pleased with the result.

So my query for yall is, is it me or is it my lens?

Hi everyone,
While enjoying the nightsky skills of my 5D3 and working my way up in the learning curve, I just thought about a WA lens for my purposes. I know, there is a 16-35, 17-40 a Samyang 14/2.8 MF. And another 12-24 from Sigma (?).

But, how are the possibilities of some 12-24 by Canon to show up these next two years? Currently I am taking pictures using a cheapo Canon 28/2.8 and that works pretty well. But there's times I'd like to go as wide as 12 mm:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/guatitamasluz/8086807391/#in/photostream
http://www.flickr.com/photos/guatitamasluz/8086837201/#in/photostream

Cheers, Pedro.

Hi!

Thought i might use the forum for something, which i think you guys could help me out with.

I'm going to Amsterdam[Netherlands] tomorrow, and i would like to know if any of you have any recommendations. I'm thinking of beautiful places to visit and to photograph, and not the coffee shops which i am well aware of.

Is there any "must visit" places?


Thanks in advance!
- Jones

Four words:

Black
Electrical
Insulation
Tape

Works like a charm. Extend the barrel fully, and apply the tape so that one edge is touching the FURTHEST part of the barrel from the camera. Apply carefully and smoothly. Make the "joins" at the BOTTOM of the lens barrel so that the ends of the tape are practically invisible. Do not allow the tape to overlap at the join; if there is any place where there are 2 layers of the tape, the barrel will NOT extend/retract past that point, because the thickness of 2 layers of the tape is too great.

It's black, so almost invisible, and this type of tape is EXACTLY the right thickness to provide the resistance you need. Apply it to the FAR end of the barrel, so that when the lens barrel is fully RETRACTED (at the 24mm position), that is where you get the resistance to creep from the tape, since you'll typically want to be carrying the lens around in its RETRACTED position.

For myself, I'm very satisfied with this solution.

If you damage your lens doing this, don't complain to me! I don't think it's risky, but I'm not taking any blame!


Martin

What is the standard color temperature that most strobes put out? I'd like to balance the CT of a strobe to match some cloudy, filtered sunlight conditions. I'm thinking that a 1/4 CTO gel might get the job done. Am I thinking about this correctly?

The Forest Spirit

When my 430ex ii flash is on the camera it works great. When it is not connected it will not fire a flash. When I hit the test flash button it makes a loud noise and light comes out but it's not in a flash like its supposed to be. Plus when I use it off camera with pocket wizards it wont flash either. Anyone have any ideas.

On Guard Duty....


Wanna play with me??


Nap Time...

Taken in Yala National Park last month.

Stephen

I got the new lens yesterday and here is a unscientific test of the lens vs the others

Enjoy !

http://asmundma.smugmug.com/Testing/Lense-test-Oct-13-2012/25916112_pKM4jk

I am the happy owner of a few of the 600Ex-RT and an ST-E3-RT.

My wife keeps buggin me that there is not enough light in these "pocket-flashes" (her term) to do some serious portraits.

I beg to differ that this is of any importance, especially as I/we now use the 5DIII with a 100 Macro 2.8.

BUT...

When i read that a monolight Elinchrom offers HUNDREDS of Ws when required, i wonder what a similar Ws-rating would be for the 600ex.

It's probably closer to a 60 watt bulb than a supertrooper.

Does anyone know?

KimH

Hi,
I have read a bit about this problem, but dont really understand why it is happening in some cases. Take the picture below (just a part of it).
That was created from 3 RAW files at -1.5, -0.5 and +0.5EV. Its the red pixel noise in the tree that is disturbing. None of the original pictures has that noise. In fact the tree was one of the darkest parts so I expected the information for that part of the picture to be taken from one of the more exposed shots, and
therefore have very low noise.
I processed the HDR in Photomatix. I have not been able to get rid of the noise in PS so I need to make sure it is not created in the HDR process.
Does anyone have any tips how to avoid this problem?
Cheers Brian

Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve, India. Bamera. May 2012. From atop an elephant. Note the shutter speed to the focal length. The elephant was not steady No crop.

7D
Tv 1/25
Av 5.6
ISO Speed 640
Lens EF100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM
Focal Length 400.0mm

Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve, India.

Bamera (his name) is the dominant male. January 2011.

EOS 400D, 1/500, f 8, 80-400@400, ISO 800

As read in the lens rumor forum, with an kenko TC the AF is working on an 100-400L. But which Kenko to buy?


Kenko 1,4x Teleplus Pro 300 or the MC4 AF 1.4 DGX?

What ist the difference in between them?


German Test on the Converters: http://www.traumflieger.de/desktop/telekonverter/konvertertest2.php