Does anybody know anything about the history/spec of this lens?
Was there a mark II - non IS version made?
Also any info how sharp these early non IS versions were?

.....will that change people's anti-Canon sentiment? When I'm out shooting with my 5DIII, I marvel at its vastly improved AF, burst rate, handling, user interface, LCD screen, responsiveness, and low light performance far more often than I lament about its DR, which is more than sufficient for 98% of my shots. That said, some people can't get over its DR handicap compared to the D800. The DR disadvantage is real, so there's no sense in arguing about anymore.

Since DR and sensor ratings seem to be the most important factors for the internet crowd, what if the 1Dx shows a marked improvement in DR over the 1DIV and 1DsIII? Will people still be going poo-poo on Canon and telling them to "try harder?" I wouldn't expect Sony Exmor performance, but what if the 1Dx can match the D4 in DR?

With the 5DIII, Canon addressed the 5DII's most glaring weakness (AF, FPS, build qaulity), whereas with the 5DII, Canon didn't hold back on the sensor tech but crippled everything else (AF, FPS, build quality) to distinguish it from the 1DsIII. Is it possible that Canon's strategy this time around is to reserve its best sensor technology for its flagship body as a means of distinguishing it from the 5DIII?

Only time will tell. Personally, I really don't care because I was never in the market for a 1Dx, and I don't see the point in rejoicing or lamenting over the performance of a product I never considered purchasing. I merely pose this question out of curiosity, since many people seem intent of formulating their opinion of an entire company's reputation based on one metric of sensor performance, DR.

I finally upgraded from my trustworthy 450D to a 60D. Now my wife suggested that she would use my 450D going forward. I guess we will have quite a few situations where we both will want a general purpose lens on our camera.

I still have the 450D 18-55mm kit lens, but don't really want to give that to my wife (IQ is just too bad). So, I was thinking about getting a second general purpose lens (I currently use Tamron's 17-50mm f/2.8 non-IS).

It seems like the 24-105mm f/4 L IS would be a significant step up from my Tamron in IQ. Does anyone use it on a crop sensor camera as walk around lens and can tell me what their experience with it is? Did anyone own both the Tamron 17-50mm and the 24-105mm and can confirm that the difference in IQ is worth the "high" price of the 24-105mm?
I was going out today with my Tamron and was only shooting 24mm and longer and wasn't feeling like this restricted me a lot. I would still have my Tokina 11-16mm for super-wide angle shots and the 70-200mm to complement on the long end.

So I have the canon 50 1.8. I use it some but am not super impressed with it. It's great stopped down but I can get about the same quality with the 24 105 IS. I just recently upgraded to a full frame camera. I've only gotten to do one shoot with the full frame but I'm noticing the 35 2.0 that I used a ton on my crop body isn't the focal length I'm looking for as much on full frame. What I'm trying to figure out is if I should just try messing around with the canon 50 1.8 some more or if it's worth upgrading to the 1.4. I hear lots of complaints about it not being a true usm focus system. It would be nice to have the better aperture blades but if that's the main thing I'm getting it's not worth it. Has anyone been in a similar situation and have some advice? Thanks.

Hello, have had teh 5D III for a few days. Pretty big step up from my 6 year old Rebel XT!!!

I want to set up the C1/C2/C3 options on the dial to suit my different shooting types. For C1, I simply want the AF to automatically selecte the point/points based on what is nearest to the camera. For this, I'd like to be able to replicate exactly what the AF does in the "Green +" mode dial position. There the AF point(s) automatically selected light up red, once focused on the nearest subject.

Is there a way to do this outside of the Green + mode? So far I haven't figured it out my going through the manual--it says you can, but I can't get it to work the same.

Thanks!
Jason
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jasondenham/

Here are some stills from the latest YouTube project I worked on. I mostly shot video (duh, YouTube)... but here are some photos I shot in between takes! I really love my MKIII.

1.


2.


3.


4.


5.

I have 3 600ex-rt flashes and for the most part I love them. I was shooting a wedding reception tonight and during receptions I always have two off camera flashes and one on the camera. The two off camera flashes are set to 1/32 and the on camera flash is always set to ETTL. I used to do it with pocket wizards and the batteries on my flashes would always last all night long. I expected the 600ex flashes to last a while as well. They didn't last as long but which is okay but when one of my slaves ran out of batteries it caused my on camera flash not to fire as well. I didn't realize what was going on because they are still fairly new to me so I changed my batteries on the on the master flash. They lasted a few shots and the master flash stopped working again. I kind of freaked me out because I was relying on the on camera flash to work. I didn't expect one of my slaves to cause the master not to fire. I didn't quite figure out what happened until I was driving home. Sure enough when I got home I turned on my master flash only and fired off about 20 shots in a row and the flash had plenty of battery power. Has this ever happened to anyone? Apparently the red light on the master flash will only come back on when all of the flashes are recharged. I will know what is going on next time but is there a way to set it up so that the master will still fire if the slave runs out of juice?

7D owners, does that post make you anxious or what? Imagine a fix to the ISO noise issues, autofocus issues and whatever other issues we've been having being implemented into the 7D. Man, then it would be an awesome body, wouldn't it?
Waiting here at the edge of our seats for the release........

Hi, I found someone selling 5D for $3500 cash since I don't want to pay taxes. He claims it's a US version with USA warranty card and all. Anything I should be woried about? I can look upon prior plunging down that much cash at a starbucks? please help, this is will be my first FF coming from 40D..
Thanks alot!

I haven't been the only one who has made the observation that Canon seems more intent upon maximizing profit and protecting market segments instead of making the most kick-ass camera that it can. There always seems to be something purposefully gimped or a decision that was made by the marketing department instead of the engineers. I own a 5D3 and a d800 and it really seems to me that the folks at Nikon really tried harder. I originally bought the d800 for a specific purpose but now I find myself using it with a nice prime that I also bought. I really don't get the feeling using it that anyone at Nikon said "we better not do X because it'll cut into our sales of Y." My only major complaint is that it has a slow FPS, but then again it's moving massive files around.

Using my 5D3 I don't get the impression that Canon tried as hard as it might have. It really reminds me of American car makers back in the day trying to focus as much as possible on maximizing profits and not making the best cars that it could. We all know how well that went.

So anyway, Canon. Try harder. You deserve all the sh*t people are giving you. The 5D3 is a solid machine, but it's not great. There were so many missed opportunities. You probably could have made something very similar in 2010 but didn't. Try to build the best stuff you can and price it aggressively. Thanks.

I have been shooting in my backyard (dark), viewfinder blocked. For the same scene, I am getting three different shutter speeds (AV, ISO 1600, 5.6)

(1) Live View: 5 seconds
(2) Live View (OFF), LCD Light (OFF): 2.5 Seconds
(3) Live View (OFF), LCD Light (ON): 2 seconds

Now I understand the impact of LCD light (any news Canon!!), but why am I getting twice the shutter speed (slower) when using the live view?

Note: I have posted the same question in dpreview.com forum!

I just ordered a kirk L-bracket for my 5Dmk3 and on their website it says that it is a preorder. I'm going to call on monday and see when the ETA is, bt thought I would check here in the meantime to see if anyone has already talked to them...

http://www.kirkphoto.com/L-Braket_for_Canon_5D_Mark_III.html

FYI, I'm using the L-bracket, their long focus rail, another quick release, and a novaflex pano plate to make a very lightweight, relatively cheap pano/nodal point head, for pano as well as vertorama. Pic below (idea from Klaus Herrmann) note, L bracket not for D90, for 5Dmk3 hence the point of this thread. Also, I haven't ordered the novaflex plate yet, does anyone have an idea for a similar option for cheaper? It def needs to lock, and if it had clicking rotation points that would be a big bonus. The novaflex is around $191, so it would need to be either similar or better for cheaper.

This topic has been moved to Software & Accessories.

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=5879.0

Hey guys, i just received my 5d2 a week ago and i've been shooting with the 70-200 II most of the time. When i wiggle it, it feels like there's a part where its loose. But it holds it perfectly.

Just wondering if this is normal? Thanks.

So the battle for 5d3 image quality will continue for some time. No matter for a while whether DXO results are fine or not - the numbers are presented to the public and caused some mess anyway. People in Canon probably are not happy looking at comparisons knowing the public look at them as well and buys equipment following those summaries. So what Canon will do next do defend it's positions?

Need honest opinions, the sooner the better since BH is accepting online orders soon

Currently I have a 5D II with the Sigma 50 1.4. I am purchasing the 135L and want to either keep the 50 and get the 24L or sell the 50 and purchase the 35L.

I shoot couples, starting to shoot some weddings, sports, etc.

EDIT: Forgot to mention I do not like zoom lenses, nothing against them, they just fit my shooting style. So a 24-70 and 70-200 suggestion might help someone else out

Just to let everyone know, I decided on the 35L. 35L, 85 and 135L is my setup and I can't say enough good things about it. Sold the 50.

As a daily user of APS-H bodies since the original 1D, I'm going to badly miss the reach when I shoot with the 300 f/2.8is on the 1DMk4 when I update to 1DX (when they actually ship!). 300mm x 1.3 = 390mm on APS-H.

I figured a 400 f/2.8 will be an inevitable purchase, but the 400 f/4DO has caught my attention. The 400 f/2.8is is a heavy sucker of a thing...the DO is a featherweight by comparison. The lighter, smaller 400 f/2.8 MkII would be brilliant but I'm reluctant to drop close to $12K on one if I don't really have to.

Canon EF 400mm f/2.8 L IS USM Lens (163 x 349mm) (5,370g)
Canon EF 400mm f/4 DO IS USM Lens (128 x 233mm) (1,940g)
Canon EF 400mm f/2.8 L IS II USM Lens (163 x 343mm) (3,850g)
Canon EF 300mm f/2.8 L IS USM Lens (128 x 252mm) (2,550g)

If the DO has the IQ and the AF performance, it could be a great match to the 1DX with its improved iso performance and claimed big advances in AF. The lowest cost alternative would be the drop a x1.4 converter behind my current f/2.8 300is.

I'm not completely cost driven, I just need to maintain the reach I currently have with APS-H when I move to the FF 1DX in a high performance, sensibly cost effective setup.

Paul Wright

Yes it's Patrick again.

Well it would be great to use our L380 Sekonic to trigger our 580ex and 430ex with the TT1 and TT5 with AC3 don't you think. More problems. We all know that the standard mode has tow be used as we cannot trigger in control ETTL MODE. I wish Sekonic or someone could just come out with a light meter that could just trigger in control mode using the pocket wizard and 580ex 430ex. I love mark Wallace he is simply the best. I watch adorama tv and everything works without a problem. Why does it always end up for us consumers with issues. Please Sekonic or Pocket Wizard please solve these problems. They are problems just read all the posts on the Internet. Anyway experiencing any of these problems

Regards

Patrick

Well folks while it is great to have the best on the market. 5d mark iii TT1 TT5. So the problem is you cannot adjust the power using the AC3. If you see Mark Wallace working the process with camera and TT1 TT5 and AC3 you feel ok this is perfect. I want this setup. Pocket wizard are working on a Beta firmware ......more waiting. The only way I can get it remotely to work is to press the test/learn button each time just to operate and adjust power levels. Oh yes I use 2 580ex and 1 430ex . All my gear is up to date on firmware. I like to use the AC3 in manual mode more control like the mark Wallace video. However it would be nice to set the 5d mark iii in auto mode so the the flashes can judge the proper lighting then adjust accordingly with the ac3 . It's fricken frustrating. How long do we now have to wait for this major problem to be fixed. Oh yes my 5d mark ii works perfectly with the system . Also the latest firmware for pocket wizard is 6.00. They are looking for people to participate in a Beta trial so they can work the problem. So just wanted you all to know about this important update. Please feel free to reply if you have the same problem.

Patrick

Hi all,

Ok, I know that I’m quite crazy these days actually shooting with 5D Mk3. Perhaps I should discuss over and over again about DxO, D800, pixel-peeping etc. Yes, D800 is the elephant in the room and now it is obvious that the only thing which is left to improve the situation is to improve the firmware. Anyway, Canon is working on a new version, isn’t it?

But since there were many more or less good opinions and tests done without being very much in the battlefield with the camera, I chose to lay down my impression AFTER actually using it in rather harsh conditions for a photo reporter – I was in the Holy Mount Athos with the occasion of the Holy Week and the Orthodox Easter and all the celebrations tied with these events.

In technical terms, this means a very broad range of light from the normal daylight till the light of a single candle (yep, I have enough keepers at 25k ISO), a very broad range of movement from fast-paced moments to an endless peace and serenity (very good to find the God, very bad for a moving photographer with a “clack” dSLR). As an aside: IMHO the silent mode of 5DMk3 is definitely a must-have for almost any photo reporter - everyone loses his natural way of being when hears the mirror's sound.

Disclaimer: The thoughts and opinions bellow are just thoughts of a photographer from the battlefield which shoot almost 10000 (ten thousand) photos in two weeks – nothing absolute, nothing dogmatic. I know that Canon is preparing a new firmware and I just want to be constructive.

Canon has a big problem now with D800 PR wise and I think that in the situation at hand the most effective way to improve it now is to improve the firmware.

Here we go:

1. 5D Mk3 screen: 418 Images on 16 GB card. Really?

Guys IMHO Canon is way off on this one. My workhorses are two 16 GB cards (one Lexar CF and one Trancend SD). EOS 5D3 says that I can shoot only 418 photos in RAW. However the camera writes on the cards somewhere between 530 – 570 files while shooting RAW mainly in 3200 – 12800 ISO range. And if I shoot in daylight (ie. low ISO) a 16GB card can hold till 590 RAW files.
Proposed solution: There are several variants but I think that the best ones are based on the (moving) average of file sizes actually shoot by the photographer. More details on request.

2. What means “Auto” Min. Shutter Speed on ISO Speed Settings?

Well, I thought that it means that the camera adjusts the ISO and the aperture in order to meet a Shutter Speed equal with the lens’ Focal Length. But it seems that isn’t always the case, and hence there are shoots which are blurred because of this. For ex. having a 50mm lens the camera sets the exposure at 1/40 secs, having lens raked out at 135mm gives us a shutter speed of 1/122 aso. More examples on request.
Proposed solution: Add an option in “ISO Speed Settings” called ‘Enforce Shutter Speed > F. Length’ which when it is set to ‘Enabled’ will ensure (at the cost of a higher ISO) the right shutter speed (iow bigger than the F. Length).

3. Manual AF Pt. Selec. Pattern - …half job

The “Manual AF Point Selection Pattern” (AF5 in camera’s menu) if it is in “Continuous” mode it wraps at the opposite edge. Except if the AF engine is in Zone AF mode. Why? The behavior of this feature isn’t consistent. And it is too bad. One must remember this when the things are happening quickly in front of him. Very frustrating.

4. Super Safety Shift (Fix This!)

Guys, Safety Shift is a nice idea. However I think that it can be dramatically improved. Besides the values already there you can add other 3 values: “C1”, “C1,C2”, “C1,C2,C3” which will work in P, Tv and Av modes. “C1” means that when a correct exposure cannot be obtained with the current settings the camera will switch automatically and temporarily (only for the current shot) to the “C1” custom shooting mode. “C1,C2” means the same as above but if C1 fails also, the camera will try the C2 shooting mode. “C1,C2,C3” means that in order to obtain the correct exposure camera will try all the custom shooting modes in the specified order. Of course, beware of infinite recursion because Safety Shift is also recorded in custom shooting modes. Or perhaps is better to introduce an entirely new menu called “Fallback Shooting Modes” or similar?

5. Not-So-Direct AF Selection with the Joystick

There is a customization called “AF point direct selection” which, during metering, allows the user to choose the AF point with the joystick. Nice feature indeed. But in order to be perfect, I think that it should have an option called “Auto-repeat” with the possible values of “Enabled / Disabled”. In order to change the AF point we must press one for each change. It would be much more convenient to keep the joystick pressed in order to move more quickly the AF point.

HTH & Best regards,

JT.

PS: Does someone know how to forward this text to Canon in order to be really effective and see some firmware improvements based on this?

Canon 5D Mark III - Copelandia

Make sure to sign in and download the original and then watch that.
He applied 35mm CineGrain.

My Odin is not working with my 5D MKIII., Tested with both 580EXII and 430 EXII
there are 2 problems

1. Zoom is not working at all, in ettl mode, i zoom the lens in, the flash will not zoom with it. In manual mode I adjust zoom range in Odin Screen, the flash head will not zoom either.

2. there are 20% of the time the Flash will trigger bit slower, the picture comes out dark. There are 10% of time flash will not trigger at all (flash is ready during the test) and i tested with 1/50 - 1/4000

Firmware is up to 1.08 on both Odin Transmitter and Receiver.

Does anyone know why is this happening? is it the hardware issue or firmware issue?

I was told both lenses at 400mm f5.6 pitted against each other, the 100-400L would smoke the 70-200mk.ii + 2x iii combo. So far this one test shot shows both very close, I am preferring the 70-200+2x due to better shadow detail: 100-400 has more contrast though... Open both files and pixel peep please.

Looking at the thumbnails the 100-400 looks better, but at pixel peeping levels the 70-200 2x looks better.

Both are 100% crops taken on a rainy evening under high ISO.

NO pp was done to the RAW before converting to jpeg in CS5.