Hi there,

I'm a first time poster, although I've been looking at these forums for a while now, trying to get a feel for Canon gear.

Currently, I shoot using an Olympus E-410, but I want to move up to something a little bit more...interesting (and bigger). My interest is mainly portrait photography, although I live in a beautiful part of the world (Guangdong, China), so there is a lot of decent landscapes around.

I have been doing a lot of research, and have come to a decision of the gear I want to buy. I would like to run it past you guys for advice, to see if you can suggest anything better.

I've been looking at the 7D (or it's replacement if it comes out before I buy - round about September/October time). I was seriously considering getting just the body, then buying a couple of lenses
- 70-200mm f/4L
- 50mm f/1.4

Would this be a good combination for what I need? I would class myself as an advanced hobbyist, although I have made a little money from doing this.

Thanks,
Malcolm

the new nikon looks like a killers entry level camera with 24mp for under $700, yes the iso performance will probably be shocking but will people who buy even understand that.

So finally I got my hands on a bower 14mm, in preparation to a Canon ef 14mmL II loaner trial.

Sure I was aware that focus and aperture are manual, BUT as I switched the aperture ring back and forth,from 2.8 to 22, no light change did happen.
I tried a few times, and nothing, till I gave the lens a light tap on the side, when the value was at f/22.
The viewfinder did become darker as it should be. I turn the ring to 2.8, and it did become lighter, but as I turn it back to 22, again no light change on the viewfinder
The light tap solved the problem.

No, I am not kidding, but has annyone ever experienced similar situation with this lens ( knock-offs included)?
It seems that the lens has some issues...

Thanks for your feedback

I need some help as I am struggling with what wide angle lens to add to my gear. I currently shoot with a crop body and plan to add a newer crop body and a new full frame body within the next year. I am after a wide angle lens to use primarily for landscapes and occasionally for architecture ( I like shooting architecture after dark). What lens would you buy and why. Thanks for your input.

Hi All,

Lately this spring I've been chasing critters around the great outdoors - and come up with a desire for more zoom since the little things like to flee as I approach. I have a Canon EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM Lens on a T3i as my max zoom at present. (See Pic below as reference, I was at just under 6 feet, the closest I could get and focus) As photography is a hobby for me, and not an income generating activity I have a desire to stay as cheap as feasible while attaining 400 to 500 mm before crop factor. I considered a TC, but a lot of places seem to say they don't work with crop bodies (such as kenko's website).

I'm looking for a zoom lens, and I looked at the Canon 100-400, which seems like a great lens, but I'd honestly rather not spend that much. Seeing that Sigma, Tamron and Tokina had some offerings in the 400 & 500mm range, which while likely inferior to the canon product is more in my budget.

The real question of the day is, a lot of these lenses do not have IS, without using a tripod and assuming that tree cover is blocking direct sunlight (as in pic below) how fast of a shutter speed do i need to overcome the downfall of not having IS?

Any input is appreciated!

Thanks,

DeadPixel

I currently own a 5D Mark II. Great camera and I don't want to part it.

I'd like to add one more camera, but not sure if I should get the 5D Mark III or the 1D Mark IV. Main use for sport photography, but would also use for portrait and video.

Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

As some of you may know from my other posts on here, I just had my first BABY!!

And my other baby, my 5d3, was there to help me capture it.

I know, most of you dont want to see a million photos of other peoples kids. Tough. Deal with it. My baby is here and I want to tell the world. Plus, this is such a cool community of photographers that you guys are like a second family.

It beats a discussion on how Ken Rockwell sucks, or the d800 is a better camera.

Follow link for a bunch more photos. http://www.timothycapp.com/blog/im-a-dad/

Yes, that goofy guy in the photo is me. I know, its not fine art, but again, deal with it.

The Nikon D3200 is rumored to be annonced by 19 april (http://nikonrumors.com/2012/04/18/nikon-d3200-in-black-and-red.aspx/).
The rumored specs are quite interesting for an entry level DSLR (24 MP sensor, 11 AF points, 4 fps, ISO range: 100-6400, with hi-ISO of 12800, "Improved video functionality"). I guess that the D5200 and D7100 will come with very interesting ++.

Will there be a Canon "response"? and when?

the t4i and 70d?? ... I hope we will see soon some solid rumors about those two models.

Any thoughts?

ive been saving some money to enter the full frame cameras. i have been waiting for the mk2 to lower the price. do u guys think i should return it and wait for it to go lower? or is there any rumor of a new ff coming to the market??

Any thoughts would be very appreciated!

I have a Nikon Clear 77mm UV filter that I "found" at a closing Ritz store about 2 years ago for about $35.00 ($100 plus filter).

Even though it's Nikon (and I shoot Canon) it is still an awesome filter. But my main intrigue is using a ND filter for landscapes. What type (brand, specs) filters do you guys use? I know I need a great ND filter to get the most out of my landscapes. However, I have been putting off this expensive purchase for several years.

I see Heliopan and B & W have somewhat affordable ND filters on Ebay. Of course, they have $400.00 filters as well. What is an awesome ND filter for under $150.00. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

I have used the SRaw (10MP) on my 5d2. They look pretty good, but noise is hardly any different and you lose many MP. I am seriously contemplating the 5d3 for several reasons: FPS, AF, high ISO noise, and bigger Sraw files.

I know the low ISO "banding" crap gets beat perpetually to freaking death. But it is a tiny flaw in Canon's sensor design. I'll take their awesome colors and low light ISO with this "banding" anyday. That being said, do the SRaw files render the noise any differently than standard RAW(on the new 5d3 of course) ?

Competitive Cameras in Dallas, TX has quantity stock of both the 600EX-RT and ST-E4RT available currently.
go to www.competitivecameras.com

Contact for pricing/shipping via phone.

Scott ( bought 2 600EX-RT's and a ST-E4RT today.

Im curious as to how I use spot AF on the 5d3? I went to the menu and took the check mark off everything but 'spot AF' and the one next to it. But for some reason the one next to it I can't uncheck. So when I go to select an AF point when shooting, instead of selecting a small dot, Im only allowed to select one of the squares.

If Canon know how much light the camera leaks from the illuminated LCD they should be able to add exposure compensation behind the scenes. Right?

If the meter says < 0 EV and the camera knows the LCD is on simply add say -1 EV.
Or of the meter is giving 0 EV then -2/3 EV, if 1 or 2 EV then -1/3 Ev.

I don't know the numbers, i'm just guessing. And different batches might leak differently. That shouldn't be a problem since the canon firmware can identify the cameras serial number and adjust the behind the scenes exposure compensation accordingly. I'm not saying canon shouldn't fix the actual leak, but if they add this "pump" they could avoid most returns. You still wont be able to stick a powerful flashlight up against the panel without the automatic exposure messing up, but this, this should not be a real issue for most people.

I don't know how this stuff really works so I might be wrong. If you (anybody) know how light meters and firmware work on canon in relation to this problem please explain.

Wish I could get me one, but they are really expensive here in Sweden... Body only is 32 000 sek = 4 750 USD

I am interested in buying a new body and wanted to get your opinion.

I own a 5D Mark II, and was hesitating between a 1DX and a 5D Mark III.

I know that they are completely different camera for differ uses, but I wanted to complet my collection.

I´d like to buy an 5D MK3 Camera and an 500mm 4.0 lens with an 2x extender.
Is it true, that the 5D is not able to handle the 2x extender like the new 1D? (manual AF only)????

I´m not pleased about that. Where is the 7D MK II????? :'(

I am looking forward to get an EdMika Adapter, but first I'll have to get one of these old lenses.

Unfortunately I can't decide if I should seek for the FL 55mm 1.2 or the FD 50mm 1.2L (latter I actually received an offer for..).

Any comments about the IQ (differences) of these two lenses? Thanks in advance.

Hi guys!

Just wanted to ask why no one is commenting on the very slow wake up time on the 5d3. When the Power-button is in the ON position and the camera is sleeping, it takes twice as long for it to wake up as the 5d2...

Is it just mine?

I just moved to the 5DIII from the 50D. With my 70-200mm f/4L non-IS I am missing the extra reach that the 50D crop factor provided for outdoor sports. Looking for suggestions on whether the 70-300mm f/4-5.6L IS is recommended over the 100-400 f/4.5-5.6L IS. Is the 70-300mm IQ and IS that much better to justify the trade off of 300mm vs 400mm max focal length? The 100-400mm seems due for an update that might make the choice easier, but I'd rather not wait indefinitely for that.

Hey all - I just upgraded from a Rebel 350 (still have) to the 5D3. I'm in somewhat of a quandary about which lenses to get. I'd like to have the best bang for the buck for wedding photography. I've only done one so far (last year) with the Rebel along with rented equipment. Here's what I have currently:

24-105L
70-200 f/4
ef-s 60mm (potentially selling unless I keep it to do macro on the Rebel until I can afford FF macro)
*sold my 10-22 as I want all lenses to work on FF*


Looking at:
35 1.4
50 1.4
85 1.8/100 2.0/100 2.8 non-L
135 2.0
24-70 2.8

I've looked at photos/digital picture's lens compare website etc. and it seems the 100 f2 is slightly sharper than the 85 1.8. From what I've read, supposedly macro lenses aren't as sharp as non-macro primes, ie 100 f2 vs 100 2.8 macro. Can anyone verify that? I also do want to get a macro eventually, so the dilemma is if I get the 100 2.8 macro, then I wouldn't want to get the 100 f2. But I would prefer 2.0 over 2.8. If I only had around $2000 to spend, what would your suggestions be in order of importance? I tested a 50 1.4 and loved the shallow DOP and sharpness considering the low price but haven't seen any of the others yet. Any and all advice would be extremely appreciated. Unfortunately I like all types of photography from landscape to people/candid and macro, which makes it hard to narrow down the lenses, but having a good selection for wedding photography is the goal right now.

Thanks! ;D

I had been mulling over the choice between the D800 and the 5D3, and went with the 5D3 for a number of reasons - one of which being the fact that I like the Canon ‘design’ altogether more than Nikon’s. And then this light leak issue creeps up (which I confirmed just now on my 5D3). I’ve been hearing people saying things liked “it doesn’t matter in real-world shooting”, or “it’s easy to avoid it by just not lighting the LCD in dark environments. 1. This just isn’t true - if light is leaking in and altering the metering, you get (slightly) altered photos. This has been confirmed by many. And 2. whether most of us shoot in really dark environments or not simply doesn’t matter. We shouldn’t have to take precautionary measures when shooting photos to work around a design flaw. We as customers should not be the solution to a product’s design problem. And no matter how easy the solution is, it doesn’t change the fact that it’s a design flaw.

I remember watching The Tonight Show many years ago and during one of Jay Leno’s monologues, he said, “In other news, the FDA came out with new rules regarding fecal matter in poultry. Now folks.......this is the new rule? Shouldn’t this have been the old rule? Shouldn’t this have been rule #1??”

(....Of course, he went on to say “I sure hope this doesn’t mean Colonel Sanders is now down to only ten secret herbs and spices in his fried chicken”....but that’s beside the point.)

Similarly, a camera properly blocking out light should be rule #1. A camera is supposed to block out light....just in case we decide to shoot in extremely low light environments (which many already do). And for a fairly-dim LCD backlight to alter the metering in a dark environment is just plain scandalous. That kind of thing suggests that Canon pushed this camera out before testing it thoroughly (or maybe they knew about it and decided to ship it out anyway and hope for the best).

Either way, I’m returning mine, and will consider buying it again after Canon has satisfactorily addressed the matter. Shipping a brand-new camera back to Canon to have it modified or repaired is completely unacceptable, and utterly out of the question.

Hi guys,
I’m going to Joshua Tree National Park on April 23rd.

Website: http://www.nps.gov/jotr/index.htm

As I mentioned before, I have never taken any photography classes before. Most of the tips I learned are from goodle, youtube and of course CanonRumors members.

This is my first time shooting landscape – any tips for newbie?

I will bring the following camera gear with me:
5D III
16-35 II
70-200 f2.8 IS II
Tripod

Thanks
Dylan

So, I see a lot of people complaining that this lens needs IS. Does anyone here that own it feel like it truly does? Is it mostly because of the focal length? It's fast aperture seems like it wouldn't warrant that you would need IS in most situations.

I find myself mostly shooting handheld street shots and this lens seems that it would draw a lot less attention.

Lastly, reviews seem phenomenal. I'm assuming most of the community here feels the same?

Thanks for the opinions!

Hey, I know my 7D used to be able to trigger my 580EX II using IR. Can the 5D Mark III do the same? I can't seem to find the wireless setting on my Mark III. Any help is much appreciated.