I'll start this one off with a photo taken with the 24-105 at a Historic Blacksmith Shop in Allaire Historic Town Wall, New Jersey. Done in Photomatix using Fusion (not Tone Mapping) on 3 bracketed images then post processed in ACDSee Pro 5:


Historic Allaire Town - Wall, New Jersey by Revup67, on Flickr

Hi,
I am about to purchase either 1.4x III or 2.0x III canon extender. Initially it will be used with 135/f2.0 on 7D and in a couple of months with canon 300mm f2.8 IS II lens.
I used to have 1.4x II and used it with 70-200 f/2.8 IS II so I do know about the max aperture and AF speed differences when you use them on a given lens.
However I have no experience with 2.0x III and would like to know a bit more from people who actually used them with 135 f/2 and 300 f/2.8 IS II lenses.

Question the the users: IQ: if you take a shot with 1.4xIII on and crop it to the size of the one taken with 2.0x converter will there be a significant gain in the detail (with these two lenses 135 and 300 mm). I vaguely remember reading a review that stated there is not much if any difference, but again I may be wrong. Looking at these samples seems to prove they do differ:
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-Extender-EF-1.4x-III-Review.aspx
Further down the page there is a nice comparison of a flower carpel and there is some difference between 1.4 and 2.0 on The Canon 180 L Macro.

Second question AF performance. Main use of 300 mm and 135 with TCs will be birds and BIF. I remeber that 1.4II together with 70-200 f/2.8IS made AF significantly slower.
Is there a massive difference in AF speed reduction between 1.4xIII and 2.0xIII on 135mm and 300mm lenses.

Thank you for your help.

Good day, I have a quick question...

I use all 3 custom functions...and I love it...but there is one thing I don't know how to do...is to change the "metering mode" when I am on a custom function.
Let's say I'm on C1...and saved with "Metering mode" in MANUAL...

How would I go about to go to Aperture "Metering mode" in C1

thank you

.
Amazing image from one of the finest photographers I know:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bowne/8173879127/#

The pier at Ocean Grove, NJ during the storm.

Has anybody compared these 2 lenses at 24-35 yet?

Hi,
I brought back 30GB of pics from 2 weeks holiday in the UK. Many were bracketed shots. Its been a pain in LR to sort them out into groups containing the different exposures for a single "scene". I know LR can stack them according to time, I wasn't too taken with that feature. But I will admit that I am new to LR so still learning.
In the end I used the time stamp and looking at the shot to identify them.

So anyone have any tips about how to organize bracketed shots?

Would it help if the Camera would name the files so that it would be clear from the file name which shots belong together? BTW. using a 5DIII.

Opinions.

Cheers Brian

just found this post on German foto community http://www.fotocommunity.de/forum/d-slr-fortgeschritten/drahtloses-blitzen-mit-speedlite-fuer-alle-eos-359176 which claims the small external Canon speedlite 90EX which was released alongside the EOS-M seems to work as a wireless master flash [line of sight, optical] on all Canon EOS DSLRs. Mastering capabilities almost equal to the 580EX.
3 groups and best of all HSS mastering on top.

I cannot verify, sicne this speedlite is not available yet were I live and furthermore I have a 7D with pop-up master flash built in. Although that one will NOT do HSS mastering.

If confirmed, this would be a really interesting and cheap option for owners of EOS bodies without pop-up flash, namely 5D/2/3 and 1D/s/X.

http://www.amazon.com/Canon-6825B002-Speedlite-90EX-Flash/dp/B008NF8998/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1352565396&sr=8-1&keywords=canon+90ex

I'm interested in buying a new lens this Christmas and I am thinking about the Zeiss 50mm f/1.4 for my Canon 60D. At the moment my 50mm is the Canon EF 1.8 version. After reading some reviews it seems as if the Zeiss isn't all that great and that the corners are soft. My question is if it is a good lens on a crop body seeing that the corner sharpness wouldn't be as bad. Are there other problems with this lens besides corner sharpness? I have no problem with manual focus, if anything I think it looks kind of fun to have more to manually adjust when composing a shot.

I am wondering if some light could be shed on the max useable print size for landscapes taken with a 5dii/5diii. I have looked over another post on this forum that discussed this topic and have read some of the links provided, but am still left wondering a few things:

1) The link that was given referencing a tutorial on Adorama's website suggested that the print size be limited to the pixel dimensions divided by 135. That would give a roughly 42" x 28" print (rounded up) printed at 240 dpi for the 5d mark ii. My question is, how accurate is that assumption? What if I print at 300 dpi?

2) How much of an advantage does someone using a d800 (or for that matter a 46mp Canon when the time comes) have over someone using a 5dii when printing at say 45" x 30" or 60" x 40"? Anyone with experience printing landscapes from a d800 vs. a 5dii/iii?

3) What do you find the best program is to enlarge landscape photos? I have Perfect Resize 7, but have found that I like the results from CS6 better. I feel that Perfect Resize 7 gives results that look more like a painting (on the screen, I have never printed one of these to a 60" x 40" size, so maybe it looks better than CS6 once it is printed), but I really don't know a lot about the program and only use basic settings. Am I missing something there?

4) I know that a common answer to the question of how large can you print a photo is, "It depends." I would like to get a more specific answer from someone that commonly does print large, high-detail landscape photos. How large are you willing to print landscapes taken with a 5dii/iii?


Thank you in advance for any responses to any of the above questions!

I am not surprised this business is filing for bankruptcy with all the negative reviews it's been getting from Yelp (which their VP regularly moderates and removes 1 star reviews), and from reseller ratings.

I figured I would post this here as CanonRumors.com utilizes them in the price comparison watch, honestly they just aren't worth to deal with - heads up to all.

http://www.twice.com/articletype/news/abe%E2%80%99s-maine-files-chapter-11/103879

I just bought a cheap 2nd hand Dobsonian 6" telescope with a T-mount and Canon adapter. Anyway just set it up during daylight hours to have a play around and all fine through the eye-piece but couldn't get anything to focus through the camera. So I pushed the focuser on the telescope in so the 5D was pretty much as close as it would go to the telescope body and moved it around to find out where it was focusing. It turned out I could focus on a power pole a little under 20 meters away, so now I have a nice photo of an insulator (actually was suprised how well it turned out).

Anyway I decided to remove the T-mount and hold the camera towards the telescope, then realised it would attach directly to the thread on the telescope without the T-mount. When mounted that way now I can focus out to about 4KM. I've never used a telescope before so maybe it's all normal and it will focus on very distance objects OK because the light will "cross over" one more time or whatever the right term is? Will find out tonight I guess.

Another interesting thing was to get a decent live-view image I could use to focus I had to select a 1/15 shutter speed whereas the metering reported 1/250 was correct which turned out to be about right.

So, got my first Macro lens (vintage Vivitar 55mm f/2.8 1:1 m42 mount) and tried a few shots handheld when I was out San Diego Decompression. What do you guys think? How could I improve these types of shots, aside from having a good tripod and possibly a set of real macro rails.

I pretty much shoot my sigma 85 at f2 most of the time because I find dof too shallow on 1.4 and really only go to 1.4 due to extreme low light so an 85 f2 with IS that sharp wide open might tempt me. Especially if is smaller and more compact. Since it seems canon are putting IS on all the non L primes I think this is a possibility just when is the big question?

I just got a 5d mark iii offer from canon authorized dealer for 2980, should I jump in or wait for black friday deal?

need your help, thank you

Hi Everyone,

I've shot Leica Rangefinders for the last couple of years. Prior to that I was a Nikon film user. I just purcahsed a Mark III and to say I'm overwhelmed would be an understatement. I have the opportunity to get on the field this weekend for the pregame activities, warm ups, etc. at the Panthers-Broncos game. I have a 70-200 II IS lens but I need some advice regarding settings for the Mark III. I'm reading the manual and a Nook download but I just don't have the time to learn and figure things out for myself since the game is this weekend.

Any help with settings, etc., would be greatly appreciated!!!

Its available at B&H.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/895598-REG/Rokinon_cv85c_85mm_T1_5_Cine_AS.html

The 5D3 seems like an under-whelming camera to some CR users. Instead, lets flip the conversation on its head.

What do you like most about your MK3 or about the MK3? My Fav's are the AF and In-camera RAW processing.

2 Votes per person.

Poll Above! ;D

Looking forward to f8 in April, I have the 100-400L and am wondering which teleconvertor to buy the 1.4 or the 2.0? Canon or Kenko?
I suspect 1.4 is the way to go but would love to hear opinions and see some images that may convince me which is best.

Regards, Alan

I recently bought an Aluratek ADMPF119 19" Digital Photo Frame from BH. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED guys. It' great to display your pictures on 19" frame. Huge different from 10".

What I like:
1. THE SIZE, 19"
2. Clear & sharp
3. Colors and contrast are great

I'll have some drywall works this weekend ;D
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/706737-REG/Aluratek_ADMPF119_ADMPF119_19_Digital_Photo.html


I been using this Sony. I’m happy with it, but the display size is only 10”. I’m going to put this one on Ebay soon.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/734819-REG/Sony_DPF_XR100_10_2_Digital_Photo_Frame.html

Hi,

New to FF so my EF-s lineup is not of any use. I've got a 24-105L, a 70-200, and a 50 1.4. I had an EF-s 10-22 with my APC before that was used rarely, usually only for interiors of buildings. I am looking at a 17-40 used with a date stamp of 2006. I am not asking about this vs. 16-35 vs prime.

I've handled the lens. It seems to work perfectly. It looks like it is brand new except for a small scuff on the mounting plate (not a scratch but a scuff). Given that I don't use this focal length much and given that the lense seems to be in excellent shape, would you pull the trigger (can save myself a couple of hundred $)?

Thanks.....

maddie autumn by Lseriesglass, on Flickr

maddie by Lseriesglass, on Flickr

Hi everyone,

I´m very happy with my 5D III and my Speedlight 600EX . Now that I put the order down for my EF600 II Lens I try to get all the right equipment for shooting Wildlife.
I thought I get the RRS B91-QR to put my Speedlight 600EX with a OC-E3 cord on it and then add the Better Beamer FX3.

So far so good, I hope this is a setup I´ll be happy with, if you know a better solution let me know.
I don´t have a Gimbal I´ll use it on my Sachtler head.

What setting do you use to get a good lightning of your wildlife?
Isn´t there a sync speed limit I have to watch ?
Because with 600mm and maybe a 1,4 Extender 840mm I think I need about 1/1000 to 1/2000 to get really sharp pictures, but from my tests it looks like the strobe won´t keep up with it.

So what are you using ?

Sadly there is not always the chance to walk around it and get the sunlight shining as you need for a perfect shot.

Thanks in advance for your suggestions and story how you did find the right setting.

Cheers

Florian

Hello!

As of this moment my only lens is 85 f/1.8 and I am in dire need of something wider for landscape, architecture and some street photography.

Next year I am going to get myself some quality L lenses, but in the meantime I still would like to shoot stuff

I need the lens to be under $300, and within the 16-40mm range. I'm fine with both prime or zoom.
Need it sharp at F4-F6.3.

I'm leaning towards purchasing the recent 40mm pancake, though realising that it is not quite wide enough.

Which other lenses should I take note of? What good stuff is available at this price in the 16-24-28mm range?

Would I be correct to assume that my best bet is a used 24 f/2.8?

Now, I had always known there were distinct advantages to RAW, but hadn't thought about it much until recently since I was only a hobbyist on a Rebel XT for five years. I upgraded to a 50D two years ago and tried RAW once or twice but still didn't have much knowledge about photography.

Now, I've been doing photography professionally for several months, have learned a crazy amount, and am pushing to get the absolute best out of my 50D until I can save up for the MkIII.

This article: http://digital-photography-school.com/should-you-be-shooting-raw
Finally made it stupidly obvious to me why RAW will always be a higher quality then the camera-JPEG equivalent. Somehow I didn't realize until now that there is quite a bit more tonal data in a RAW file.

So I would really like to be shooting in RAW, but a few things are holding me back:

1) Data management.
I don't have the budget for a bunch of HDD's, especially while saving every penny for the MkIII. This is not my biggest concern, but it will be a greater task trying to back up 800 RAW files instead of JPEGs. I know there has got to be a way to delete all images in a folder not chosen for import when using lightroom. If someone could explain that to me or if anyone knows of a workaround, data management wouldn't concern me as much. I always import more than I truly end up with, and I don't want to add to my workflow time by deleting all the out of focus images outside of lightroom before starting the import process.

2) Workflow time with only RAW files.
I know I'll figure out the speediest way for me once I actually start taking on the beast, but some advice on getting started would be greatly appreciated. I advertise a photo-journalistic style for weddings, so I often come home with over a thousand images expecting to choose about half of them to process. Part of this is needing to be more selective in shooting, but I still feel much safer taking three shots of the same pose using the 50D and shallow DoF as there is such a razor thin margin for getting critical areas in focus.

Does lightroom handle RAW files in an efficient manner? With so many images per session, I'd prefer to keep all my work within lightroom. I'm just worried that processing RAW and then processing all the produced images will prove to be too time consuming. It may not be a problem if I did photography full time, but it is currently a weekend job on top of my normal full time job. Business is starting to pick up for me, and time management is starting to become a real issue.

Help please ;D

Hi, I`m a VFX student , Going to buy the Canon EOS 550D/T2i Kit (EF S18-55IS), New to the Dslr world.

But non of the Online stores in India have it in stock for 2-3 weeks now. Is a new model coming to replace/update the Canon EOS 550D/T2i ??? dint see any rumors for now.


Thanks