After reading that the 1.4X Kenko PRO 300 DGX was autofocusing at f/8 with Canon super teles on 1D X Bodies, as well as reading the experiences of some who posted here with the 5D Mark III, I decided to go for it.
My TC arrived late this afternoon, and I decided to give it a try on my 100-400mmL. At 100mm, its a equivalent of f/6.3, and the 5D MK III indicates f/6.3.
I tried it indoors in fair-good light, and it autofocused smoothly and quickly. Then I zoomed out to 400mm which is f/8 equivalent, and I was pleased when it snapped into focus repeatedly.
Then, I decided to give it a tough test, and took it outdoors where it was rapidly becoming dark. This is the area where TC's usually fall flat. I zoomed out to 400mm on a far distant house with the sky still a little bid bright, and it did a fair job of autofocusing. slower, but suprisingly fast for the situation. The ISO level was 8000, but the image under exposed.
Then, I tried it without the sky in the background on my rose bush in deep shadows, but it would just hunt. This was a very dark area. Finally, I tried it on my bird feeder at ISO 12800, which was a correct exposure, and it smapped to focus quickly. I was amazed.
Its too late to do any more testing tonight, but I'll try testing other lenses and combinations as I can make time.
Already, I can say its worth the price over a Canon 1.4X MK II TC as long as you do not need weather sealing.

Hi all,

First post here, but have been visiting this site for a few years now. I'm a happy owner of a Canon 7D and 2 Canon lenses (24-105, and a 60mm EF-S macro), a Sigma (10-20mm f/4-5.6) and the Tamron mentioned in the subject. I've had the Sigma and Tamron for almost a year, and the others for a bit longer. So they're all pretty new, as am I to the photography scene. I've been really happy with my gear except for the Tamron.

After getting it late last year, I initially thought it was pretty impressive, especially for the price. But after using it a while and comparing photos taken with it, to my L series 24-105, I was routinely disappointed with the sharpness I was getting. I took a lot of outdoors, nature photos with it, often of birds and flowers/landscapes. Most of them were OK, but none of them really popped the way my other lens(es) did.

This problem got noticeably worse the first time I did any high speed/action shooting. At the time, I was using a 500D (Rebel T1i) and a 40D. On both bodies, I started getting errors (ERR 01) and had to turn the cameras off and on again, just to continue shooting. Any photos I was able to get were pretty disappointing in terms of sharpness.

So off to the service department for this particular online retailer (DWI) it went. Much to my irritation, they couldn't find anything wrong with it and after a 7 week wait, it came back, with no information regarding a repair of any sort. Strangely, I didn't run into the "ERR 01" though. By this time I'd sold my two older bodies and bought a 7D so perhaps the newer camera helped (though I doubt it).

I was hesitent to use the lens, thinking it'd just let me down again but eventually took it out for a session at a nearby airport. Lots of panning, AI Servo shots later (with VC mostly on to help with the 100 to 200 shutter speed I was using), I realised there was a new problem - an annoying buzzing/knocking sound every time the VC disengaged. The few times I still had the camera to my eye, I noticed the image jumping around like crazy as an added part of the noise.

I had never noticed this issue before in the few months I'd used the lens.

So I made another warranty claim with my online retailer.

A few days later I was having a closer look at the problem and decided to take the lens off the body and give it a gentle shake. To my surprise, I noticed what looked to be the VC lens group, freely rattling around inside the lens body. The action of this "wobble" was so obvious, I decided to take a short video with my iPhone. I posted it up on youtube both to get comments from the public, as well as to document it for the service center I'd be using.

A second video was made through the viewfinder, to show the bouncing and noise, after the VC disengages.

The videos are here:
Wobble with the lens off the body http://youtu.be/0s3XJwx1cIo
Bouncing/noisy VC disengage http://youtu.be/bQRTmV3e43I

After the service guys viewed the videos and a few email exchanges to explain the problem in depth later, to my surprise, the service department declaired this "problem" as normal! Needless to say, I disagree.

So here's my question - can anyone with experience with Tamron VC lenses, tell me if this sort of thing strikes you as "normal" or if you've had similar experiences?

The bottom line with this lens and this experience is that I'm left with a lens I don't trust and one that routinely seems to let me down. It's inconsistent, routinely soft, and based on lots of reviews I've read from others who own and love this lens, it really looks like there's something wrong with it.

Thoughts and comments are greatly appreciated!

Hello all,

I've noted of late that my JPGs made on-camera with my 5D3 are not quite of the quality that I'd expect. Sometimes I'm seeing softer edges, other times I am seeing patchy noise reduction effects. RAW files (unsharpened, not noise reduced) did not see these effects.

Perhaps backing this up, DPReview claimed the IQ of the 5D3's RAW shots was excellent, but that the IQ of the JPGs was lacking:
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canon-eos-5d-mark-iii/26

So, I was wondering if you have had to tweak some things for best on-camera JPG results. I keep auto lighting optimizer off completely, but I was wondering in light of the DPReview comments that I should completely shut down High ISO noise reduction as well.

Also, are there other settings you've tweaked on-camera to improve JPG image quality?

Thanks!

- A

This topic has been moved to Third Party Manufacturers.

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=9942.0

Hello! This is my first post here so I hope this is a good spot for me to post it

Is there a way to set a custom function to quickly move into 61pt AF? A wedding photographer posted a video about how he set his depth of field button to do that in case he felt he needed to get a shot quickly.

I see that I can set the DOF button to go from one shot to AI servo, but this guy sounded more like it was actually moving to the 61ptAF mode.

This is the video if anyone is interested.

http://www.annaandspencer.com/blog/blog-posts/geeking-out-on-gear/geeking-out-on-gear-episode-6-5d-mark-iii-3-auto-focusing-and-point-selections/

Hello CR forum folks, I thought I'd tap you for some help.

At a rock concert tonight, the organizers are welcoming amateur photogs to bring their gear in and shoot. As this is not my usual environment, I had a host of questions to ask re: gear / settings.

1) First and foremost, what should I bring?

I can't use a flash at the venue. Let's get that out there first.

I am shooting a 5D3 and was planning on the following lens decisions:

Bring: 24-70mm F/2.8L I
Bring: 28mm F/2.8 IS --> love this little wonder, btw. Super hand-holdable in low light.
Bring: 50mm F/1.4
Bring: 100mm F/2.8L IS Macro
Bring: Ear plugs
Don't bring: Shorty McForty
Don't bring: 70-200mm F/2.8L IS II
Don't bring: My old crop body (T1i)

Don't have at all: An ultrawide lens option. I sold my EF-S 10-22mm when I moved from crop to FF this year.

I can get right up to the stage (which is not large), so I didn't think I needed the length and added weight of the 70-200. And the second body is great for a dedicated second lens, but the T1i is underwhelming in low light.

2) I've noted that in very low light -- for instance, where ISO 6400 and above are required for fully open 2.8 glass to pull in 1/40s of an exposure -- my 5D3 often hunts for focus. What is the best recommended focus point selection / method for low light shooting? Are specific focus points more reliable for quicker focusing in low light? Is manual focusing ever recommended in these conditions?

3) In such low light, I also presume there are best practices for getting focus on well-lit features (like faces) and recomposing -- please share what you recommend!

4) What High ISO noise reduction level do you recommend, as I'll likely be shooting in ISO 3200 and up. Should I have the camera manage this, or should I turn this off and handle it in Photoshop?

5) Just as a nerdy curiosity, does High ISO noise reduction affect the RAW file or just the JPG?

Thanks for your help!

- A

source: http://cpn.canon-europe.com/content/news/120_megapixel_apsh_format_cmos_sensor.do

with respect to the current megapixel rumored EOS bodies...
is it likely to get such working experiment from 2010 finally in a production-ready EOS?

Georg

Maybe I don't fully understand all of the specifications that are described when looking at a lens but I would like to better understand the angle of view specification a little more clearly. When you look at say a 300mm prime lens on the Canon website, the diagonal angle of view is said to be 8° 15'. I am fairly certain this is for a full frame sensor as the angle of view (I think) is dependent upon sensor size. If this is so, how would I use this information to determine the distance needed to frame a 6ft tall person within a crop sensor (portrait or landscape)? That is, if I wanted to shoot a football game and would like to shoot from the 50yd line, how could I calculate the focus distance that a 300mm lens would "reach" for a full body shot without much cropping? I understand it should be fairly simple geometry but I am not 100% sure as to how to approach it. Anyone with some knowledge?

As the above paragraph is probably convoluted, I am trying to figure out what focal length lens I would need for specific sports of I know my distance form the athletes. So if I am at the 50yd line, would a player at the 20yd line take up the full frame?

http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/standard_display/EOS_app
8)

I've been using Canon digital SLR's professionally since the D30 in 2000, when AF was slow and dynamic range belonged to transparency film only. My last DSLR was the 5d Mk2, which I sold to upgrade. However after reading all the 'rumours' and specs on current and 'to be released' cameras, I've decided to stall my purchase for a while, because the camera I really want hasn't been made yet. (30+mp, full-frame, 8fps, wifi gps, articulating touch-screen, STM lens control with dynamic Image Stabiliser and eye-informed focus in a cheap, light and affordable semi-plastic body)
As I am having a few months off work following surgery, i have decided to buy myself a 650D and play with that instead. Will I be disappointed after the 5dMk2? I'm not talking about menus, build quality etc, just the big one, IMAGE QUALITY. My guess is that I'll be pretty happy.
Hopefully by the time I get back to work Canon will have decided to make the camera of my dreams by combining the best features of what is already available in their existent and rumoured product range.
If anyone has already done a comparison of 5dMk3 and 650D images, please let me know.

Folks,
Has anyone used dslr for full length wedding videography or does anyone have any comments on the subject matter. Thank you,
Raj

Hey guys,

I know it's the canon forum but I thought I'd share the news as this is great news for us all loving those DSLR video shots!

http://mynikonlife.com.au/pro/pro-news/nikon-d4-d800---first-dslr-cameras-fit-for-broadcast

Hi does anyone remember how much was the earlier version of 600mm? I am selling mine and wondering what to price it at.
Thx...

Shot these in some nicely transforming lighting conditions before and after sunset.
The vivid sunset colors, reflected on the windows of office towers in 0622, were not even visible from my shooting location. A string of migrating geese can be seen near the top, above the tall white building.

I hadn't actually intended to get something out of this shoot, was just testing an old 400mm prime lens that was dropped and has some fungus issues. The lens has its flaws, but they're workable and decent results can be had with some work in post.

Got some interesting looking city skyline shots?
or other shots that turned out well even when you didn't intend to "commit photography?"

Pile them on.

Comparably Nikon D600 The Canon 6D Is Very Embarrassing..

Canon 6D Has Superb ISO Sensitivity...
But Comparing With Nikon D 600..

Nikon D600 Have :-

:- Dual Card Slot, (Canon 6D Has Single) (So,Poor)
:- 39 AF Point, (Canon 6D Has 11)
:- Built In Flash (For Trigger Off Camera Flash) - (Canon 6D Don't )
:- 1,50,000 Shutter Durability, (Canon 6D Has 1,00,000)

Canon 6D Doesn't Have Such(above) Kind Of Facility..

Is Canon Need To Replace Canon 6D Body..???????????

First thing to know is that I plan on getting both but don't have the money to purchase both at the same time. Probably get them a few months apart from each other. Second, most of my shooting will be of my kids/family and will consist of indoor and outdoor shots equally.

So which one to get first? I'd really like to hear from those who take photos of their kids and what they have found to be more versatile/useful.

I like the idea of the 70-200 for those times where I can't be very close to the kids (where the 24-70 would be great) but it's also a huge lens and I'd prefer not to be lugging it around all the time. That's where the 24-70 sounds more appealing. 24-70 is a great lens but I don't know if it will be as versatile in situations with the kids.

Thanks for your guys' input!

Hello There,

The finnish on my 5D Mark 3 is wearing away around the bottom left edge of the camera.

It looks like it's 5 years old..not 5 months old.

I have no idea what wore the finnish away.

Anyone else have this issue?

Thanks..Arnie

So I was going to get a 1dx because I didn't want to spend 3K+ for a used mark iv however I have a friend who will give me a good deal on his old one but it has 270k+ shutter clicks lol so I figured I'd have to replace it. He said he take off however much it costs. I am a premium cps member so idk if that'd help, but does anyone know?? I figured somewhere 300-400$ range?
Thanks

My friend is getting married on the 13th. He's having a girl with an entry level crop body do some photographs. I'm also going to be helping out. I'm interested in switching to Canon, so I figured it would be a good time to try out a body before purchasing. As I'm not the Primary photographer, there's isn't any pressure. I've used a Nikon D300s, D80, and D70 in the past.

I'm going to be renting a 5D Mark III, BG-E11, and a 600EX-RT.
The church is fairly big and well lit, so I was thinking of using a 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS for the ceremony, and a 35mm f/1.4L L for the reception.

The last reception I did, I used a 17-50 f/2.8 and I was wishing it was faster. I was thinking a 35mm on a full frame should be sufficiently wide.

Any suggestions or recommendations?

Discuss the Canon TS-E 24 f/3.5L II

Hey everyone, I was just asking here for some advanced tips/suggestions regarding a golf tournament that I am going to be paid to shoot for the Great Lakes Intercollegiate Athletic Conference Oct. 14-16. I know I've done things like this before, but I'm never above asking for help and seeking tips from those that are advanced sports shooters and so I thought I would pose some general concerns here.

First, unlike in the past, I will not have help doing this. There are 10 teams and I have to get 2-3 photos of every player from every team. I also need to shoot the awards ceremony at the end, on day 3.

How aggressive do you guys usually get with golf? Do you stay far away and shoot people teeing off with a long lens, such as 300mm or 400mm or do you get closer? What typical focal lengths would you use for the awards ceremony? Worst of all, lighting is never ideal in these situations, so maybe using a 400 f/2.8 for teeing off and getting 40-50 yards away might be more suitable? Metering may be an issue with high contrast/shadow parts of the day, which is my biggest concern.

Thanks!!!

Brett

Ok...This is more of a rant than anything....so here goes!

NEVER EVER...EVER...EVER have an amateur, shooting with a different camera brand and very poor quality lenses shoot a wedding with you ( you had sympathy for this person and wanted to help them grow as a photographer and allowed them to assist you, photographing)

Holy smokes!!! I'm using L glass plus a 5D MK II and in order to get the quality of their picture to something half decent and that looks like a hint of my pictures, talk about POST POST POST...Geesh!

They were using a Pentax K-X and a Tamron AF-70-300. Now before everyone jumps on my case, I did provide a canon 40D with Canon Lenses ( NON-L) for him to use, however, it was sooo different than his own camera, he couldn't figure it out within the few hours he was there.

This is not a rip on the photographer, he actually has a great eye for composition....he just needs a better system....sorry..

Short of great canon (non-L primes) 85 1.8, heck the 50 mm 1.8 Mark 1....I don't know I'll ever buy poor quality lenses...

sorry....more of a rant...lol

Have a good night.

I've never formally attended an air show, although I've seen some from a distance. Three days ago, I went to the Blue Angels air show in Hawaii and got a chance to try out my first time novice skills with my 7D and 8 month old 100-400mm L. WOW, what a great show! Estimated that about 70,000 visitors attended. Can't wait for another one to come along.

Having never even tried BIF (these were larger but moving much faster than most birds), I googled the topic of air show photography the day before and read some suggestions (very helpful and wouldn't have been nearly so fun without the advice). I basically set the 7D to Tv @ 1/1000 with auto ISO (max set to 400) and auto white balance. The focus and exposure mode was usually on spot. Almost all the shots were taken @ 400mm. All were JPGs taken hand held and, since the show lasted 5 hours, my arms were quite tired at the end.

I took about 1000 exposures and have picked out several of the best to post. I would love to hear some tips from any of you more experienced air show photographers, so next time I might do better. These were PP in DPP (probably over cooked since I am still learning). Any constructive comments are welcome (don't be too hard).

Thanks for looking and any helpful hints. I really enjoy this site and have learned a lot here.

I just ordered the 24-70 II from Newegg. They had four in stock when I ordered, so as of this post, they should still have three left.

They seem to be the only company in the USA that has current stock, and got VERY lucky with a brainstorm to take a look at NewEgg.... not generally thought of for photo equipment. I confirmed the stock with online chat and should have the lens by Friday latest.

If you've been looking to buy, I'd go IMMEDIATELY to NewEgg and see if the 24-70 page still shows stock.
Price same as everywhere else... $2299.00

Good Luck!