long story short, looking for advice, 24-70mm I or 24-105mm on a 5dmk3 with mostly flash mounted use? advice?

I sold the 7d, sold my favorite crop lens, 17-55mm. I had a few crop sigma lens. I own a 24-70mm that sits on the shelf. With my new 5dmk3 on its way i plan to dust it off and use it not eh 5dmk3.

When I shoot on the weekends the company I work for provides a 5dmkII and a lot of lens, mostly use the 70-200mm f/2.8 and the 24-70mm which i own.

For everyday use i think i may go with the 24-105mm, i can get it new for under $1,000. I can sell my 24-70mm I for a good price making the transfer easy.

I go through stages during home use that i love no flash and appreciate the 2.8 but its not that great in low light photography, very usable though. I plan to pick up a 50mm 1.4, i never liked the 50 on a crop but find i will use it more on the ff. Mostly i had the flash mounted on my 7d at home with the 17-55mm.

Since i find myself at home use, especially since my wife grabs the camera a a lot with the flash mounted I may enjoy the extra range on the 24-105mm? any advice?

simple poll to see ratio of good vs dud bodies coming out

I was surprised to see that the automatic lens aberration correction works in video mode. Usually these features seem to be left omitted when it comes to movie mode.

Here are 2 screen grabs from videos I shot with the 50mm f1.4.

The video on the left has it disabled (hence the vignetting). The video on the right has it enabled.

One of the local camera stores here in Utah is giving away a 5d Mark III. It is a pretty simple facebook contest from Pictureline in Salt Lake City

http://bit.ly/H6HwkD

I know its my first post here, but I thought you all might want to know.

I've been rocking a 5DC since launch, and have never been happy about having to manually focus on anything outside of the center cross AF point with pretty much any of my fast primes wide open (e.g. 50L, 85L II, 135L).

The high precision, MF screen helps and is a life saver, but it's become a crutch as I've come rely on that to validate all focussing. That said, the new 5D III does not have user replaceable screens allowing for proper DOF previews for lenses faster than 2.8

For folks shooting primarily fast primes with their 5D III, how are you coping with this? Is the AF capable enough so that focus points on the edges are accurate down to f1.2?

Focus and recompose is not an option for me. The focal plane is in the millimeters at f1.2 for tighter portraits

So DPP rendering has proven to be faulty, easily corrected by changing High Quality -> High Speed. ACR6.7 is beta and used with DNG converter to edit/view files in LR4. Does anyone else find the pictures in DPP once this setting has been changed to be markedly sharper/vibrant? I know the ACR is beta, but the good news is, that the camera sensor itself is producing great images, although some might have some MA issues with lens, i'm beginning to think all of this hysteria is due to poor rendering with currently available software. Here is a little side-by-side I did with the two current options, the JPG is a poor representation obviously as its just a screen shot but I think you will get an idea. The DPP version appeared much sharper. Albeit the 'test' anything but scientific

LR4 on the left via ACR6.7 w/DNG Converter, DPP w/High Speed on the right:
http://smu.gs/IoUgKt

I was just wondering if any of you recent buyers of 5d mark iii had time to play with an intervalometer you owned from before and if it works.

I am considering getting one but not sure which ones works with mark iii besides the canon model,

please advice !!

Normally when I buy a lens I test for AF focus myself and not surprizingly, I find that in all cases the AF is off at least a bit and sometimes quite a bit more (as in the case of a recent purchase of a 100 L macro). Normally I dont use MF adjustment and send it in to Canon for free calibration - thinking that the lens is at fault not the body. In all cases it comes back with near perfect focus on my 5d Mark II body - so I know at least my current body is not the problem. I know some of you may suggest sending lens and body in for calibration, but I would have thought that might not be the best idea in case Canon just uses the MF adjustment instead of adjusting the lens itself. In that case a second body purchase could introduce AF problems again.

Comments?

For the life of me I cannot find the custom function to disable this feature. I dont want the shutter button to focus if depressed halfway.

If you can walk me where in the menu I can do this, that would be awesome!

Thank you in advance

Possible noob question...

Where is the best place to order Canon gear?

I ask because I've been told that the equipment sold to Costco, for example, is different than to B&H or Amazon. When the time comes for me, or anyone, to purchase a DSLR, lens, bag, or accessories, what would you recommend?

Note: I am in the NYC area.

So our markii is in the shop for a dead pixel, and the markiii arrived with a dead pixel in video mode. I'm not impressed, Canon!

Fortunately the remapping trick (manual clean with the body cap and a blanket over the camera to prevent light leak) seems to have worked. (It didn't work for the markii.)

I'd highly suggest everyone check their cameras for dead pixels, especially if you're going to be shooting video.

I've been experimenting with off camera flash for fill flash in outdoor portraits and have been getting inconsistent results - wondering if anyone could share a workflow that works for them.

My setup - 7D. 580exII, 2x430 exII. Have both a softbox and umbrella.

What I've been trying is exposing for the background and then generally using the softbox at a 45 degree angle and about a foot above subjects about 8 feet away. I've found ETTL sometimes works but often seems to overexpose, particularly if the background isn't bright (i.e. overcast day). I then start futzing with modifying the ETTL to "underexpose" by 1/3 a stop at a time, but futzing to the point that I'm wondering if I should just use manual. Some of my shots the subjects themselves look OK but they look detached from the background.

Anyone have a method that works for them? I'm mainly looking to put a little glow/color in my subjects face on grey days.

If you had to chose one (REAL) lens for the REST of your photography career. Which would you chose? And Why?

Hi there!

I've had the 5D3 for 3 days and I'm loving it so far. Despite one big major pitfall. While the AF is lightning fast, it seems to produce soft images. I had issues with 50-70% of my images turning out very soft, even in controlled conditions. I decided to print out a focusing chart and see if my lens was back/front focusing. Turns out in my test, it was severely backfocusing. Corrected the probably (-15 af fine tune) and was in love with what I was getting with anything 4-8 feet away from me. Then I took a picture of something further away, and now it severely back focuses. As in, the camera/lens need the AF fine tune with close subjects, but not with far subjects. So how do I calibrate for back focusing when I'm close to my subject, but then normal or front focusing when I'm far from my subject.

Quick!

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/847546-REG/Canon_5260B009_EOS_5D_Mark_III.html

I'm new to canon and along with my new 5Dmk3 I am also breaking in some awesome new L glass. I will agree that I was a bit disappointed with what seemed to be soft images at first, but I quickly realized that the focus was a bit off on both lenses. I just did a little micro adjust and it made a HUGE difference. I bought the SpyderLensCal a while back and I know that it is way overpriced and I could easly build one for next to nothing, but the convenience of it almost mitigates the annoyance of micro adjusting. Just shoot, review, adjust and bang your done. I think this may be the cause of the discrepancy of so many different people either saying they are getting sharp images or not and then attributing it to the camera body, DPP or JPEG engine and saying maybe I just got a bad unit. If the camera was back focusing by just a little it would be really hard to tell it was not just a soft image because you wouldn't see the sharp in focus region. Anyway, try checking for focus adjustments I've noticed a lot of the people getting good results on other forums are noticing this as well. Nice thing is you can also enter in the serial number after you adjust a lens and it can store up to 40 individual lenses, so hopefully once you get one dialed it will be go for a long time.

if your curious about the lens cal thingamajig here is a link to a vid of how easy it is to use, or it will give you a good idea of how to make one yourself.

http://spyder.datacolor.com/learn_videos_spyderlenscal1.php

Does anybody what services the Canon Factory Service Centers offer with regards to either auto focus micro adjustments or full on lens camera calibration? and if they charge?

There is one reasonably nearby (about an hours drive away). I dont like the idea of shipping my camera off to be adjusted but if they do any of this on a walk-in, wait and walk-out basis then it seems like a good option for peace of mind.

Having just got my 5d3 kit I want to make sure I am getting the best out of it and my other L lenses. Especially as at the moment I am a lot happier with the focus on the shots I have been getting with my 70-300L and 50 f/1.8 than I am with the new kit lens.

I think the 24-105L may be front focusing, in one shot the tiny hairs on the tip of my daughters nose and really sharp and from there back the shot looks a little oof. Its my first FF camera and with my trusted old t2i I have never had any issues like this to base much on... I know the auto focus adjusting stiff is there on the 5d3 but If the service center do walk ins I'd rather get someone who know what they are doing to have a look at it for me.

I'd rather get myself adjusted to the new camera knowing it was all correct and any problems were with me than spend time trying to work out the problem is me or the lens

Just a heads up for those of you that switched gears and ordered from Crutchfield. I found that thread (lost it now) a little late and didn't get head of the line priv's when ordering. The first batch of camera's went out and people have already received them... I just got a notice for what I'd consider the second batch of orders being shipped. My camera is on the way!

B

I've tried backpacks, big and small, and they don't work for me. I like the Lowepro holster mini packs such as the Toploader 65, which is my go-to bag. The Toploader is just a tad too small, I'd really like to have room for a flash and an extra lens (which I could get with a side attached slip lock case), but I'm looking at the Inverse as maybe a good candidate.

Any thoughts on this bag?

I don't know if I am doing something wrong here, but at Low ISO (100) I am getting vertical banding, anyone else having this issue?

I suspect that the answer might be "RTFM", but I'm going to ask anyway...
When I shoot JPG's and CR2's, Bridge shows the CR2's as really, really underexposed(3-4 stops), and the JPG's are slightly over exposed
I've tried changing settings within bridge and on the camera-nothing seems to affect it.
Is this what everyone else experiences?
Is there a setting that I've missed?

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but it's driving me nuts!

Looks like I missed the section of the forum, please transfer the topic to where it is supposed to be.

Hello! I am from a country with a colder climate, so this is pretty important for me during winter.

What kind of temperatures is it safe to expose Rebel and 5D bodies respectively? How does performance scale down depending on how cold it is (aside from an obvious fact that the battery charge is going to run out faster)? Any info about this?

Hi all,

I recently bought a tamron 70-300 VC USD and since there is a decent amount of wildlife in my area I thought I'd give it a shot.

I'm somewhat uncertain however what the best strategy is in advice regarding AF on my body. Ive never used anything other than single shot-AF (center point/recompose).

Most stuff Ive shot was moving targets (eg. deer). The 40d has only 9 AF points, and since I'm in thick forests, when Ive tried to use servo-AF it seems to just only use the center point and often focuses on objects infront of the animal, such as a tree or branch. Plus since there is no time to recompose, Im not keen on center point AF anyway.

so Ive now actually kinda given up on AF and just decided to keep the lens on manual AF near infinity, then I can always slightly tune the AF as needed.

Is there a better way for me to use the (relatively limited) AF of the 40d? how do you guys out there do sports or wildlife? all AF points, or center only? AF-servo, single, or auto AI?

Wondering if anyone knows what would cause the spotting in the attached images. This is a RAW conversion with no adjustments other than to open in Ps and save as a small JPEG. I've shown the full image as well as a 100% crop of the affected area.

EXIF:

5D2
TS-E 24L II
B+W 82mm 010 UV Haze
RAW
ISO 100
f/16
2.5 sec

These spots only showed up on these exposures of the bridge (same spots on multiple exposures). Not apparent on other shots I've taken. No dust on anything.

All brand new gear. Only 150 snaps so far on the 5D2. Could the filter be causing this?

From the Canon USA site, we can read on the new 600 speedlite that: AF Assist Beam compatible with Canon's new 61-Point High Density Reticular AF.

But Canon fails to say anything about the other speedlite, like the 580 II for example. Does anyone knows if the older speedlite are actually compatible with the 5DmkIII or 1DX? Canon's site suggest they may not be!

Anyone?