I won an auction to shoot sideline/endline at a MLS game here in Seattle. Having done this before, I was slightly limited in what I was shooting, but I'm going all out for this one. The dilemma I'm having is what to rent to augment my existing kit... At this point here's what I have coming from Roger (in red) with my existing kit:

Monopod with Manfrotto T bar and RC4 QR plates with:
5d3 with 300/2.8IS and 1.4xII tele
1d2 with 70-200/2.8

Spider belt with:
Right Hip 7d with 24-70/2.8
Left Hip T4i with Tokina 12-24/4 with a 40/2.8 and 17-55/2.8IS for fun

Now, to start with, I'm not even sure the placement of the 5d3/1d2/7d is correct, but I think that with the range on the 300 and the wide of the 24-70 (28-112) are going to be the main image makers, but the 1d2 is getting lots of range in the middle of things.

Now the fun, if I get ambitious, what would you 'upgrade' from this?? I've considered a second 5d3/7d, 70-200/2.8isII, 300/2.8isII even going so far as a D800e with a 200-400 or a 14-24/4. In a really bad dream I'd have a H5d-80 for some amazing shots, but my bank isn't that crazy with me...

The location is Qwest Field / CenturyLink field (just hosted Monday Night Football) so the lighting is as good as it'll get. Time frame is beginning of November, and being Seattle, there is a chance of rain possible... I've been digging around my existing photos from a few years ago trying to notice a pattern in MM, but it's all over the board, and some of it I cropped down. Oh, and we get some great support so there'll be plenty of crowd shots:

Good evening all,

i will say hi as I'm not new just this is my first post.

wondering what filters people use to protect there lenses if any...

I'm really undecided on what type of filter i need i have just purchased the 17-40 L so i know i need a 77mm filter and i know i need a top quality one as there would be no point putting cheap glass in front of it..

so what do you guys and girls do?


any help appreciated.

thanks

Hey guys, I'm having a bit of a dilemma, I'm trying to decide which way to go gear wise to accommodate my 70-200 2.8 l is ii. I am an enthusiast looking to move up to a ff, and shoot landscapes, portraits, and some sports(why I got the 70-200 and my extenders.)
I'm deciding between a canon 16-35 2.8 and maybe a sigma 50mm 1.4/canon 1.2 l/new canon 50mm 1.4
Benefits:
1.) a great wide angle that is good for portraits
2.) a good 50mm as an upgrade from my 1.8 that will bridge the gap
Cons:
1.) there is the fact that I may need a bunch of filters, which could be worth it.
2.)it may be more expensive

Or, a canon 17-40 and a canon 24-70 2.8 l mark 1
Benefits:
1.) a good standard zoom that works for portraits, and vacation
2.) those along with my 70-200, I have constant 77mm, so I can carry less filters.
Cons:
1.)may be heavier
2.)the weight may be a problem.
3.) if I only use the 24-70, it may be hard to take wide scenes.

For those of you out there who has any experiences with the Tink Tank Sling-O-Matic 10 camera bag,would you know if a pro body camera like a 1DX with a 70-200 F2.8L MKII lens attached fit into it?

Thanks.

This topic has been moved to Third Party Manufacturers.

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=9809.0

For the past couple of weeks many people on this board have been telling those of us that are not overly enthused about the 6D but are still wanting to go full frame to "Jump Ship to Nikon". Well... I decided to dip my pinky toe into that water and rented a D600 and the Nikkor 24-70 f/2.8G.

I received it late last night (wife missed the Fedex guy). First impressions: body feels lighter than my 7D but still well made; lens is damn heavy. I put the lens on and proceeded to go through my normal rituals of learning a new camera. This is where trouble started.

I was expecting the control layout to be different... but I wasn't expecting it to be retarded. It's as if someone was throwing darts at a picture of the camera to decide where to put buttons / functions. There is no central "theme" or purpose behind the design at all. Let me go through a few functions to demonstrate:

1. AF selection. This is the worst offender.
1a. Manual Focus. There are two places to choose manual focus vs AF. On the lens _and_ on the body. They both have to be set to AF for AF to work.
1b. AF mode selection. There is a stupid button down by the barrel on the front left (if you are holding the camera to your face) _on_ one of the AF/MF switches that you have press and hold and twirl one of the two control wheels (but which one?) to select AI Focus, Single, Continuous and the other control wheel (but which one?) to select an AF point selection mode.

The first problem there is that you have to use your left hand to change AF modes! How the hell do you do that with a big 400mm+ lens while you have the camera to your face?

The second problem is that it's not clear which wheel changes which thing. On my 7D anything controlled by the wheels is on a button by the LCD (which, first of all I can press with my right hand while holding it to my face) and it is obvious (because of the label on the button) which wheel controls which option. This is a small thing because you will ultimately remember which wheel is which... but it's this lack of thought that permeates the whole way this camera works.

Now... as for the AF modes themselves... they suck compared to my 7D. I love being able to toggle through AF point selection modes _while my eye is to the camera_ and use the joystick to move it around on my 7D... it is EXTREMELY fast. On the D600 that's not really possible (because of the button location) but even if it were there are really only _two_ AF point selection modes: Auto and Single Point. Now, there are some "restrictions" you can put on Auto... but it's still basically Auto. Compare to my 7D where I can cluster, I can do point expansion, single point, full Auto, etc. Even worse: the D600 doesn't have Orientation Sensitive AF Point Selection! I really don't understand that and it's one of those things I love about my 7D. I could go on about how limited the AF system is for quite a while but I'll stop there.

2. Everything looks cheap. This is harder to put down in words. The LCD on top looks like an old 80's LCD watch and the menus on the back screen look like they would be more at home on a $100 P&S. For instance when you hold down (yes you have to hold it down) the exposure compensation button (which is in a random position next to the LCD) and twirl one of the wheels (which one? and why?) to set some exposure compensation it shows you a big 80's style watch number instead of the cool pointer that you move left and right on a 7D. It's a small thing, but it just leaves me feeling that they were cutting corners...

3. Finger gymnastics. As I've already pointed out, to change any settings you have to _hold down_ buttons with one finger (or even another hand) and twirl a random wheel. But it gets worse. To change shooting modes you have to hold down the lock button (I know some people like that, and that there is even an free "upgrade" you can get for your 7D that does this, but to me it's just a pain) AND you have to hold a release button to change "Drive Modes" while twirling a tiny ring around the shooting mode selector. All of this adds up to sore finger tips and sore fingers. Seriously, I shot for hours last night with this thing around my house and as I'm typing this my fingers are sore! I have rather big hands, but even for me it is uncomfortable to hold down some of the buttons and locks and twirl wheels. This is not too mention the fact that the grip is uncomfortable (it has a pretty sharp edge just under the front twirly wheel that digs into your finger when you have a heavy lens on like the 24-70 and it's smallish... which means I am gripping pretty hard with my fingers instead of my hand unlike my 7D)

4. ISO. Why in the holy hell of the world is the ISO selection button (that you have to HOLD DOWN and twirl a random wheel to change the ISO) on the back bottom LEFT of the camera? Again... you cannot do this with one hand. You canNOT do it while holding the camera to your face. One other quick hit on ISO: Why does it BLINK at me in the viewfinder that it's on Auto ISO? Why? Why blinking? Right in my eye! I truly don't understand.

5. Drive mode selection "ring". I mentioned it earlier... but it warrants it's own section. Why is drive mode (Single shot, Continuous, 2 Second Delay, Remote, Mirror Lockup) selection a _physical_ ring that you have to press and hold a lock button and twirl? This is dumb on a number of fronts... but I think the most egregious is that it mean that I can't set the drive mode to one of the user defined settings (U1, U2). On my 7D I have a "Fast Action" user setting (which is the last one BTW... so I can just crank over the mode dial and I know I'm on it... the Nikon mode selector spins all the way around so you have to actually take the camera away from your face and LOOK at the dial to know where you are) that sets continuous focus and highspeed continuous drive (among other things). You CANNOT do that on a D600.


I could go on for longer about stuff I don't like... but what about things I like about the way the D600 works?

1. The on/off/LCD light switch switch integrated into the shutter button is cool.
2. Minimum shutter speed with Auto ISO is really nice.
3. Max ISO selection is good.


All griping with no pictures on a photography forum? Yes. I haven't shot anything worth posting yet (just around the house last night and my office this morning). I'm headed into the mountains this weekend to put it to the Landscape test... and I'll post back with my findings. From what I can tell on the back screen the image quality looks really good (which is why I'm doing this in the first place). But can the IQ overcome the inequities in the functioning of the camera? We'll see....

I am having issues with my grip. I have used it quite a bit and it has worked just fine until recently. During a wedding the battery indicator was flashing showing both my batteries were almost dead. I found it strange since I had only been shooting for about 3 hours and normally they last me all day. Later after I charged both batteries it did it again with fresh batteries. Going into the menu to battery info it said they were both at 100% even with the indicator flashing that they were about to go dead. Sometimes it will show a message that the camera cannot communicate with the batteries. After pulling out batteries and disconnecting the grip and putting everything back together it usually works fine for a while. Do you think the grip is going bad or there is a connection issue?

What goes into making the minumum aperture? I mean whay does my 70-200 go down to f/32 but my 50 only goes to f/16? Why can't the 24-70 go that extra stop down from f/22 to f/32?

Many of Canonrumors forum members are estimating different prices or body type for the newly rumored Canon Big Megapixel Monster that eventually will be released as a response to Nikon D800.
Let's see the centralized opinion of the forum users...

Hi !

I've got a 40D APS-C with a 1.6x crop factor. That means my 70-200 is actually x1.6 or 112-320mm.

Given that i'm shooting at 10Mp, if i upgrade to FF a 5Dmk3 given the grater number of pixels how would I calculate the zoom of a 10Mp image cropped out of the center? I'm thinking it's greater than 1.6 but not sure how the math works out.

There is a good chance that I’ll be upgrading from my Canon EOS 450D to the Canon EOS 5D MKII early next year, although I am waiting to hear what people have to say about the 6D.

My concern is with what I have read about the AF system in the 5D MKII, but then I thought is there much of a difference compared to the AF system in my 450D, both have 9-point AF points. Does anyone have any experience/know if there would be much difference between the two systems?

Thanks!

Gear: EOS 600d
Lens: Sigma 50 1.4 / Sigma 10-20mm / Tamron 17-55 2.8

This is my first post in Canon Rumors Forum... any comment welcom ;D

Hello there

I am new here

I am hobby photographer (only learning) and I sell photo acessories here in Brazil.

A client of mine has a t4i cam (mine is an old 350d) and I sold him a M42 adapter with AF confirm chip, but chip gives error 01 at the camera.

I sold a lot of rings and it´s the first time an error like this occurs, i checked the same ring with my 350d and it worked fine with no problem at all.

He even had another ring (just like mine) and it was having the same problem, and I looked everywhere to see about this, and found nothing

Is there a new chipped ring for t4i or is it something firmware like or the camera it self does not accept those kind of rings ? Or if there is any work-around or fix for that problem, I would appreciate.

tks

I have aproblem,

Im starting a photography class in my high school next year, but the first year is film only.
I want to find a cheap canon film slr that is a descent camera, but won't break the bank, and the price won't hurt me if I dont use the camera for a long time.
I need to make sure it has a canon ef mount, or else I can't use my lenses.

I am going to a wedding where all my family will be in. I am not the pro here but my family expects me to get decent shots. I am bringing my 5d3 with 24-105 to travel light with the 600ex. I was thinking using AV starting with f4 and auto iso up to 3200. Any other suggestions?

Is the 5d mkii focusing better or worse than the 40d for birds in flight? I understand that the center point is more accurate, but is it faster than the 40d? I only shoot birds about 25% of the time, I use for BIF a canon ef 400mm L f5.6 and for stationary birds an old Heinz Kilfitt 400mm f4.0 manual focus lens as well. The other 75% of the time I know the 5d mkii would fit me perfectly.

I am happy with my focusing on the 40d with the smaller aperture (f8.0-f11.0) required for birding. As long as it is at par I will be happy.

I understand that the 1dx 1dmkiv and 5d mkiii are better cameras. I have just installed a new furnace new air conditioning and have completed a basement reno(aka I have no cash flow), I am finding the cheap price of the 5d mkii very tempting, And I would like to know if anyone else has made the switch from the 40d?

On my screen, the features of show new posts and show replies are very hard to read and for a long time I didn't even know they were there:

Now that I know they are there, I struggle to distinguish them.

My recent trip to Hong Kong, Lantau Island & The Peak. All pictures were shot with 5D III + 24-70 II.

http://albums.phanfare.com/slideshow.aspx?i=1&db=1&pw=82JiWIX8&a_id=5769991

Does anyone have any experience with the Phottix Battery Grips? They seem to be about a third of the price of a Canon grip. If yes, please specify the camera for which it is used.

Canon 24-70 ii in stock at Onecall and PC.Nation at MSRP of $2,299. Get em while they last!

Of course reviews have been mixed from Glowing to mediocre. I am taking my chances and hope to get a good copy.

Im an experienced scuba diver whos shot a fair amount of pics on a few point and shoots , and ive been in the market for a FF camera for a little while with the intention of taking it underwater to take photos pf waterscapes larger sealife and reefs etc.

do you think the 6d would be good for this? ( just about my budget range)

plus points good in lower light, fairly small. image quality (im sort of guessing here lol)

what do you think?

id really appreciate your opinions. cant really see my self getting a 5d 2 for some reason, just seems to old now!

Hello all. First post on the forum. I have been reading and searching though for a while. I am a hobbyist looking to upgrade my camera body (currently T2i). My primary use of the camera is shooting ice hockey and walking around during travel / holiday. So, I am looking for something with better / faster AF performance and tracking and reasonable / fixable low noise at high ISO. Most of my ice hockey shots are ISO 1600 - 3200. My first thought was a 7D, but given where we are in the product cycle, I think it would be more advantageous to wait. I figured I could get a used / cleaned 1D mark III for relatively equal price to a refurb 7D and then see in a about a half year if I want to upgrade to the 1D mark iv or a 7D mark II / 70D (whatever canon has plans for). I shoot a 70-200 2.8L for sports fyi.

Looking for advice from anyone with experience in shooting ice hockey particularly with 7D vs 1D3 vs 1D4 etc.

Thanks in advance.

Just curious - how interested are you guys in purchasing this camera as a secondary backup to your DSLR? If not this specific sony rx-1 how about a canon full frame compact camera?

Is there a market for it? What's a price you'd be willing to pay?

While the rx-1 looks and sounds amazing - I don't know that I could stomach spending 3k on a fixed lens camera. The idea behind it is awesome tho. I'm reading lots of rumors of the nex-9 (or whatever it ends up being) that will be Sony's FF mirrorless camera entry.

Now that I might pick up.

Kinda interested what everyone's thoughts were on this.

Hi all,

This is my first post so please be kind .

I purchased my first Canon 550D in December last year, it was a complete upgrade from my Nikon D40...

I am a keen wildlife photographer and have purchased two lenses the 100-400mm L and 70-200mm F4L, this has taken my pictures to another level , i now feel that i need to upgrade the body.

From what i have read online i am considering getting a 50D secondhand - is it worth it swapping from my 550D? I dont use the video mode...

Not looking to spend much more than £500 ish.. so some ideas would be great.

Thanks