Hi all,

I shoot street photography usually with 5D3 and a 50 1.4 (thinking to upgrade to 1.2) and I have 2 600EX-RT with me, in case the shadows are to big.

Mostly I ask for permission to do portraits. And most of the times I do head shots or from chest up.

I was thinking also to get 1-2 more prime lenses for shorter and longer focal length.

Please write here what gear do you use, and also if you have experience with the primes 24L vs 28, 50L vs 50, 85L vs 85.
Is it wort paying $$$$ more for the L lenses? ( I know that L's are better, but is the difference day n night like at some zoom lenses?)

I just got a set of the Yongnuo RF-600 TX and 4 receivers which work well with my 60D and 5D3, EXCEPT when I have either camera in live View, and then they just don't work.

When Live View is switched off, using the OVF, they work perfectly, but when I switch to Live View, it won't trigger the falshes.

Anyone have any ideas as to why, and how to get around this problem?

I will be flying into LAX in the beginning of October for some days of track riding at Willow Springs, and then 9-10 days of exploring the National Parks in the SW. I've never been to the parks, so I'd like to get some input for places to see/pixelshoot and how much time to spend where.

I will be driving out from the Rosamund/Lancaster, CA area on the morning of Oct 8, and hop on a plane mid-day Oct 17th in LAX.

Based on fsu_dan17's thread in Feb/March (I hope you had a safe return), and reading through the Lonely Planet Guide, I'm so far planning to go the following parks/places:
Grand Canyon, South Rim (2 days?)
Lower/upper Antelope Canyon (OK to do in 1 day?)
Horseshoe Bend (same day as Antelope?)
Grand Canyon, North Rim (½day? 1 day?)
That would bring me to around Oct 12-13.

Question is what to do next - one option would be to go back west to Zion, Vegas (just a stopover for sleeping), via Death Valley to Yosemite, but getting to Yosemite and back to LA is quite trek.
Another option would be to go NE for Bryce Canyon NP and the Utah Highway 12 from Bryce to Torrey ... but where then? Capitol Reef NP?
Suggestions are most welcome, keeping the Oct 17 date in mind.

As for lenses, I plan to bring 'the lot': 5D3, 17-40, 24-70, 70-200/2.8 IS, 1.4x TC III, 580ex and tripod. I'll probably bring the 50D just as a backup and/or for reach.
Speaking of lenses: I'm considering to swap my 70-200 Mk I for a Mk II - can anyone recommend a shop in the LA area for this?
What about Lexar 1000x cards? (getting them shipped to CN from B&H or Adorama before the end of the month is not an option).

Thanks.

Edit: fixed fubar url thingy.

Hi,

Does anyone have any experience with using Canon 300 f4 with 2X iii teleconverter at f8 and comparing that with Canon f5.6 + 1.4X teleconverter at f8.

I am interested in knowing more about the following areas.

- sharpness of images comparatively
- impact on AF ability using a 1D Mk IV body, in good and low light
- weight and usability of the combo's.
- thoughts on effectiveness of the IS on the 300 mm when used with the TC

I am interested in having more reach for birds and wildlife, both while they are still and moving. Getting a 500 f4 and/or 300/400 f2.8 is out of the question budget wise.

Thanks

Sasha

Here's an example of what I don't want.



And here's an example of what I DO want...

How do the Canon 50 F1.4 and 50 F1.2L lenses compare to each other?Which has a better IQ and sharper?Which has better contrast and color rendering?Which focusses faster?And lastly,if the 50 F1.2L is better,would it be worth getting it over the 50 F1.4?

Thanks.

I'v seen 3rd party atempts at similar things for other systems and unlike the Hassleblad system they don't need any optics due to the lesser flange distance, would a similar system be possible for the M using EF lenses? would Canon consider it?

A business partner of mine dropped our 70-200 f/2.8 mkI, and the lens is in bad shape.
There is a half-moon shaped series of cracks on the second element from the front (though you can't seem to see it in photos). The AF and MF, however, don't work above 135mm. If you try turning the MF ring at 135 through 200mm, the ring does nothing or almost nothing, rendering the lens quite unusable.

Does anyone have experience with damaged lenses? Does this sound like it's a write-off now, or is there hope?
I'm going to take it into the Camera Store this week, but it'd be good to hear your experiences.

Thanks and take care of your gear!

Kevin

Well I'm gonig through some shots from tonight's Ashland U. vs. Wooster soccer match, and this is pretty cool. I'm finding when I import my RAW files, I investigate to see what post processing needs done and then do it, before I crop. Gone through about 10 photos now and decided I didn't really need to do anything to them. First camera I've ever had where I didn't NEED to do any post processing at all. All I'm doing is cropping and saving to TIF. Really amazing stuff. I was shooting with a 300 f/2.8L I IS lens too.

Hi

I currently own the Canon 60D, and thinking of switching to full frame (maybe the 5d mk ii or mk iii) by the end of this year. I own a Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 and it is by far my most favorite lens to date. I have a 24-70L from Canon, a 50mm 1.8 II as well. I was wondering if you folks could point me to a wide lens fit for full frame. The 16-35 L from Canon is just way beyond my budget. Is the 17-40L sharp enough? Or is there an adapter that I can fit on my tokina so that it works fine with a full frame body? Any suggestion is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

I shot tens of thousands of photos of him. Now his dead.
R.I.P. Altai


http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-europe-19380140


EOS600D EF100-400mm

I am looking for a lens to handle full length portraits and group portraits in situations I cannot fit in with a 70-200.
For the near future, I am looking at the new 40mm or the 50 1.8 (mostly because of price).

For owners of the 40:
How much distortion would the 40 have in a full length portrait? Would you compare it to closer to a 50 or a 35mm lens.
Would the 40 be capable of a 3/4 length portrait without exaggerating body features? Even so, most likely I'd be using the 70-200 for any 3/4 length portraits.

I used to have a 24-105 for these situations but after some lens changes I currently have a big hole between 20mm and 70mm. I normally used a 100 for nearly all portrait work but expect I'll soon be doing work in tighter interiors where the option of backing up may not be available.
Both my cameras are full frame so I'd really like to hear from those who use the 40 with full frame.

Thanks
James

T3i with EF-S 17-55 at 55mm, f8, 1/250s, ISO 100


17mm, f5.6, 1/100s, ISO 100

How do you respond to the following compliment: Hey, that's a nice photo, you must have an expensive camera. It's a compliment in that they like your photo enough to comment on it, but it seems like they are giving all the credit to the equipment used and none to the person behind it.

Here are some examples:

I've been shooting a variety of photos with 7d 5dii and iii and the 7d while a good tracking and focusing camera, has not lived up to my expectations of improving reach because the files don't stand up to any cropping because of high noise and what I think is just poor iso performance. Even uncropped files look fuzzy. I've included files from DPP of clouds (since they are at infinity focus to take poor focusing out of equation), but virtually all the photos show the same graininess and I think that is keeping them from attaining sharpness, really at any iso. The metadata should be right nest to the photos to show the iso and other information.
So is this normal or outside of normal for a 7d, and what should I do bought the camera about 6 months ago.

Tridacna maxima on left and Tridacna crocea on right. Taken with a SX20IS F2.8, 1/60, ISO 80 cropped


T3i EF100 F2.8 macro at F2.8, ISO 800, 1/200 sec


Neocaridina species shrimp these are freshwater shrimp T3i EF100 F2.8 macro at F5.6, ISO 100, 1/200 sec cropped w flash


Sparkling Gourami FW T3i EF100 F2.8 macro at F5.6, ISO 100, 1/200 sec cropped w flash


Potter's wrasse SW T3i EF100 F2.8 macro at F5.6, ISO 800, 1/200 sec cropped


Royal Gramma SW T3i EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II at 55mm, F11, ISO 400, 1/40 sec cropped


FW snail Nerita species T3i EF100 F2.8 macro at F4, ISO 1600, 1/160 sec cropped


Dwarf Cichlids FW Apistograma cacatuoides in front Mikrogeophagus remirezi in back
T3i EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM at 55mm F2.8, ISO 800, 1/250 sec cropped


FW catfish Corydorus aeneus in front Cheatostoma species in back T3i EF-S 55-250mm f/3.5-5.6 at 250mm F5.6, ISO 400, 1/125 sec cropped


Regal Tang SW T3i EF100 F2.8 macro at F2.8, ISO 800, 1/500 sec cropped


Green Chromis SW T3i EF100 F2.8 macro at F2.8, ISO 800, 1/250 sec cropped


Canary Wrasse SW T3i EF100 F2.8 macro at F2.8, ISO 400, 1/250 sec cropped

And assorted coral shots

T3i EF100 F2.8 macro at F4, ISO 800, 1/125 sec cropped


T3i EF100 F2.8 macro at F4, ISO 400, 1/40 sec cropped


T3i EF100 F2.8 macro at F4, ISO 800, 1/40 sec cropped


T3i EF100 F2.8 macro at F4, ISO 400, 1/20 sec cropped


T3i, EF 50 f/1.4 at F8, ISO 400, 1/40 sec

Word of advice... don't test the build quality by tossing your 1D X off a speeding golf cart...




I'm sure Canon will repair at no charge as a reward for me finding the weak spot : Still works fine, but not exactly weather sealed anymore.

Digital Rev have a head to head shootout video:

http://www.digitalrev.com/article/canon-eos-1dx-vs-nikon/MzcyODcxMTc_A

Saw this posted on DPReview today in their forums. The seller has good feedback, however the warranty looks like it could be an issue. It says Canon USA warranty at one point in the description, yet in another part it says no manufactured warranty. Are they even making money off of these?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Canon-EOS-5D-Mark-III-22-3MP-Digital-SLR-Camera-Body-/300768503539?forcev4exp=true

Hope you like it. I am privileged to pick up my 5D3 on Monday afternoon.
So seeing this, I am fascinated already...Can't wait to try it out 8)

http://www.uncagethesoul.com/night-photography/best-canon-night-camera/

Hope it wasn't posted before. No intention to post obsolete topics.

Cheers, Pedro

P.S. I hope the learning curve, as I am upgrading from a 30D, won't be too steep.

Here's my
http://www.flickr.com/photos/guatitamasluz/

I bought my 5D MK III in early June. I haven't shot a ton of stuff yet - maybe about 2000 frames over 7 or 8 sessions. But in 3 or 4 of those sessions, AF just quit. I use back button focus and at some point in the session, I hit the AF button and....nothing. No lens movement, no light, no beep, zippo. These situations have all been in good light conditions. The only way I cleared the system and reestablished AF functionality was to power off the camera and then power back on. I don't typically shoot time-sensitive stuff like sports or weddings where I have to worry about missing "the" shot. But I'm still concerned about this hiccup. Anyone else seeing this anomaly?

Between the Canon 50 F1.2L and 35 F1.4L lenses,which do you feel would be a better walk-around lens for a Canon 1DX camera?And why?
Thanks.

Hi,

recently i got a Zeiss Flektogon 2.8 "Zebra" version, m42 Mount /w adapter on my eos 1100D.

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6188/6071754657_6531f96493_z.jpg

Im really happy with this lense, i got it for cheap and on my APS-C the field of view is quite standard.
I just got one problem and if i set the aperture to 2.8 and twist the focus ring out to the maximum so i can get really close to subjects. The aperture ring starts to shift a little. I wonder why its like that?
I first checked if its perhaps just loose but its not and when i set it to minimum focussing distance there is no way of moving the aperture ring back to 2.8.
I also tried holding the aperture ring in place and then just focussing to minimum distance but that doesnt work. The Focus ring will just block.

Ok i just checked again and it seems the aperture ring moves a little bit when im focussing. Any idea why?


*edit*

I found this online:

Let's start with the f-stop ring set at 2.8 and the focus ring set at infinity. Now I begin to turn the focus ring clockwise, getting closer to the shortest distance of 0.18m. As the focus ring passes the 0.3m mark, it begins to turn the f-stop ring counterclockwise. Ever so slightly. By the time the focus ring is at 0.18m, the f-stop ring has turned to position f/4.
What's more strange is that the aperture blades are still in the fully o

Click to expand...

and the reply:

The lens is really designed to be used with a hand-held exposure meter; probably it was built in the days before through-the-lens metering was available (certainly the case for Exakta). As you move into to close focus, you need to open up the aperture some more to keep the same effective f-stop, so for example an f/2.8 aperture setting on a close focus might only give as much illumination as f/4 would at infinity. If you had a through the lens meter, it would see the reduced illumination, but a hand-held meter simply does not know the distance to the subject or the focal length of the lens, so it can't compenstate. The Flektogon had a built-in mechanical compensation as I remember it. As you focus to shorter distances, it opens the aperture up. Of course, if you start off at f/2.8, it has no where to go, so instead it rotates the aperture ring to at least tell you what its effective aperture really is.

Click to expand...

Experiences? thanks already.

Hi all,

My Mk iii is configured to write large RAW files to the CF card and large JPEG files to the SD card. Yesterday I was happily shooting a wedding when I suddenly got an Error 02 message relative to the SD card (message states "Card cannot be accessed, Reinsert/change card or format card with camera").

I have never experienced this problem before on any of my other cameras, ever. Now two things changes since my last shoot:

1) The SD card is brand new - Sandisk 16GB Extreme 45MB/s, Class 10. It was of course formatted in the camera prior to use.

2) I updated the firmware in the Mk iii from whatever it was when I received the camera back in March (1.0.x) to the latest 1.1.3 version.

Sandisk cards are very reliable in my experience, however I accept that I may possibly have a lemon in this instance.

My other lingering doubt is whether it is the firmware update which may be related to this issue, with this specific card?

Any similar experiences or thoughts would be most welcome. Thanks in advance.

When I was shopping at the cruise terminal of SP, the salesman at the other side of the display window asked me to give him a quick shot. He then showed this photo to his fellow workers and said that he is going to be a star someday. I promised to post it on the internet but have no idea where to post so.......... it's here. Hoping that he will see it one day.

Canon X5 (Japanese version of 600D)
Tamron 17 50 non vc