I have noticed that occasionally when removing both batteries to be recharge, upon loading them back in my date and time have been wiped. The body was with out any battery for a while but I don't hunk this should be an issue.

Anyone else having this issue or heard of it?

Hi All,

I'm looking to purchase the 70-200 f/2.8L IS II as my next lens within the next couple of months and want to do some research and get some insights/inputs from users of this lens. This is rather a pricey lens, so I would like to know as much as possible (practical 1st-hand usage rather than charts) about it prior to purchase. I use a 5D Mark II.

I'd like to know:

1) what you love about this lens?
2) what don't you like about this lens?
3) How many times did you return it before you get the right copy (I've heard the 24-70 is known to go through many returns before photogs are happy w/theirs, so I'd like to know if this is the case for the 70-200 f/2.8 as well)?
4) what price did you purchase your's for? what's a good price to get in now as it seems prices of lenses have gone up lately?
5) anything else you'd like to add...?

Thank you so very much for all your help!!!
I'm so excited and looking forward to this lens.

I have an EF-S 17-55 2.8 IS that is less than a year old that I want to sell.

I think I understand why some people call it "evil bay" now. It looks like they are going to take about 9% of the sale price before the PayPal bite.

Is there a good forum or other site to list a lens for sale? I feel I want a reasonable but not excessive price and B&H's $500 trade-in is just not in the ballpark.

Anyway, just wondering if I am missing something on the Ebay route of if someone could direct me to a better resource.

Hi everyone. I have just recently begun to get into photography and I really want to explore portrait and wedding photography. I have a young baby boy and this would be for side work/fun. I need an external flash but cannot afford anything expensive as I am in the process of practicing and learning right now and would not like to try to charge anyone for work for some time. I have a t3i and was looking for an alternative to the canon 430 exII. Looking for suggestion from those who maybe own third party flashes or have used them extensively. Thanks for any help!

Low light on the ascent. All comments welcome.

Hi,

I'm the new boy in town, been reading the forum for years but now finally joined.

I have had a 50D since they first came out and love it to bits; however the time has come to get something newer. I use the camera for a wide range of subjects and have a few 'L' lenses. Attached is my Flickr if anyone is looking that closely at my uses.

I read all the Canon propaganda on new cameras such as the 5d mk 3 and the 7d.
Has anyone gone from the 50d to one of these?
Is the jump in technology that much more noticeable?
Is it worth the major investment? (and the week or so of wining and dining my wife before asking for one?)
If any has both and has some free time to show just how much the photos would vary I would be very grateful.

Kind regards, HWTN

Should this post be in the wrong place, mods please let me know and I will move it.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/59783702@N02/

I have had an sony a33 for about a year now, and I am planning to up-grade to
5d MKii
17-40 f/4
50 f/1.4
135 f/2

I shoot mostly landscapes, lowlight events and video, any recomendations?

Hello!

Current lens line up -
17-40mm L f/4,
40mm f/2.8,
50mm f/1.4,
85mm f/1.8,
70-200 L f/2.8

Bodies - 5D & 7D

I'm really not liking the 85mm f/1.8 - I find it too unpredictable and unreliable (especially on the 7D as a 135mm equiv.) I'd love to get the 135mm f/2 L.

Here's the plan : Sell 50mm f/1.4 and 85mm f/1.8 and buy 135mm f/2 L.
(The 40mm pancake is brilliant and the IQ is better than the 50mm in my opinion.)

Lenses would then be -
17-40mm
40mm
135mm
70-200mm

I shoot weddings, portraits etc.

I'd appreciate people's thoughts.

Cheers

Rhys

Hi all. I just upgraded from my 20d to a 5dIII. I love it but today I noticed a bright red dot in a picture without enlarging the picture. I went back and enlarged others around the same spot and could find the dot again at all ISO's.. even at 100. I just did a 30 second exposure at 800 ISO with the lens cap on and I got this.
http://i.imgur.com/GRrg0.jpg
Now I expect a couple bad pixels but I can count about 12 spots and some spots have way more than just 1 bad pixel I believe. I tried the manual cleaning trick multiple times for up to 4 minutes and I still have atleast 10 spots and it seems to not be improving so I stopped. Is this average or did I get a lemon? Also adobe camera raw fixes about 2/3rds of them but definitely not all now that I know where to look. I have 23 more days to return it to amazon. Thanks guys for your help.

I would appreciate input please

I am going on a hot air balloon ride and intend to use my 5DIII in video mode, likely with 70-200 f/2.8 IS II. I will likely use a bean bag. Obviously, the balloon will be moving, and I will be shooting moving wildlife. So the question is: Which IS position should I use for best results? Would it be different for stills?

Thanks.

sek

I want to go to full frame some day and I use crop now. I'm trying to sell my canon 17-55 2.8 to help fund the FF move. However I got an email off Craigslist from a guy that wants to trade his canon 28-70 2.8 for my 17-55 is it worth it? Assuming both lenses are equal condition as well.

I've read that with the d800 you need the best lenses to really reap the rewards of all those megapickles. I guess that's probably true. I've read and seen tests showing it's very good noise performance. Cool. But I've also read that you need to go over the 1x focal length "rule". Something like 2x or i even read 3x somewhere. wow. Is this proving true? It just seems to me that if those new "rules" are correct, i would think that many times i would have to bump up my ISO settings to deal with that. So i could possibly be running a stop or 2 higher than i would using something else. like a 5dmk3 or whatever camera of less resolution. That would really change things. Now that could be wrong and everything is just peachy at 1x focal length. That's fine too. No agenda here. I'm mostly a Canon shooter and I've never thought about swapping. I'm just curious about this stuff.
BTW- I didn't know where to post this. i hope this is a suitable place.

So long story short I'm getting money to buy a 5D3. My kit at the moment comprises of a 600D with battery grip, 24-105L & the plastic fantastic 50mm 1.8.

I'm still new to photography/videography & I mainly do video work which involve filming events like the occasionally gig if I'm lucky but I film monthly fashion shows which take place at different night clubs, where I also film interviews of the designers.

As I would use the 24-105 with the 5D3 when I get it, ideally I would like another lens to use on my 600D and I am leaning towards getting a wide angle (zoom) lens which I could use on both bodies.

So my choices are narrowed down to the 16-35mm L F2.8 or 17-40mm L F4. And I'm just wondering which is the better lens? or if there are any better prime alternatives.

Thank you in advance for your help.

I am interested to hear from anyone who has used both cameras. I have two 5D3s and I am a wedding photographer. I love my cameras but I am always curious if there is something better that will help me do my job better. I am interested if the AF is just a little faster and better and I have also read that the sensor may be a little better. Anyone have any experience with the two cameras?

Just left there today at 6:00pm CST and they had received a few this week that sold already. They just got one more in and it was available when I left today. I already have mine. They are open tomorrow 10:00am CST. Going. going...

5900 Richmond Avenue
Houston, Texas 77057

Local Houston: (713) 789-6901
Toll-Free: 1 (800) CAMERA5

Store Hours
10:00 am - 7:00 pm Monday - Friday
10:00 am - 6:00 pm Saturday

I have used my sure shot SX110 to take videos many times and they have always been great. Now, for some reason they are all bad. Very blurry and pixilated.
What could be happening?

I have been shooting for three years on a 1000D with a 16-35 f/2.8, 50 f/1.4 and 100-400. I think it is time for me to upgrade to a new body. The 5D3 would be ideal but it's too expensive. My other options are the 7D, 5D2 or waiting for a new camera from Canon. Here are some pros/cons I could come up with for each.

The 7D is good because it is fast, responsive, has good AF and is $1500. However it is APS-C which means no UWA from the 16-35.

The 5D2 is good because of the high resolution and FF sensor Also still in the price range (sub $2500). However the AF is crap and FF makes the 100-400 worse.

The cheap FF body Canon might release later this year is good because it's FF, will have the AF from 7D also $2000 is feasible. However it will have lower resolution than the 5D2 and will be pretty slow (FPS wise).

My current lenses would leave a serious gap for FF bodies and a crop body UWA lens such as the 10-22 will limit upgradeability to FF. However a cheaper crop body could leave some cash to buy an EF-S ultra wide.

So what do you think 7D, 5D2 or wait?

I am a young pro cameraman (mostly documentary) who has earned enough money that I would feel comfortable upgrading from my personal camera from a T2i to a FF camera. So my decision is, do I buy a 5D II right now or do I wait until Canon announces their new entry level FF camera. It seems like the price will be about the same so I am torn. My usage of this camera will be 75% video, but I also do some side photography. I need to start compiling some pros and cons because at this point in my life dropping $2K is a pretty big deal.

I'm sure it would be best to wait for the official announcement of the new FF camera before I make my decision, but I am impatient and if the answer if the 5DII I want to get it right away.

Hello to everyone.

I have been using a canon 50d for some years now. I do quite a bit of macro,portrait and close up work. I have been thing of upgrading to either the 7d 5d mark 2 or 3. I appreciate I will have to upgrade some of my ef-s lenses if I go to a full frame camera, but I am unceratin if full frame is going to be of any advantage to me and does come with a hefty price tag.

regards Karl

Please tell me what you guys think. Thanks

If video does not show here is the link https://vimeo.com/46471147

<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/46471147?color=f00004" width="965" height="392" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe>

As the subject reads, can anyone clarify who gets what? It seems the USA does not get the flash for $799 in the kit, and Canucks like me get the flash for $879 in the kit ($829.99 with 22/2), see the linkS below.

http://www.henrys.com/71879-CANON-EOS-M-WHITE-W-EF-M-18-55-And-90EX.aspx

http://www.henrys.com/71881-CANON-EOS-M-BLACK-W-EF-M-22MM-F2-And-90EX.aspx


If Canada gets the flash in the kit for $879, it seems our neighbors to the south are getting hosed.

I'm finally getting some interest in portrait photos and will need a mobile lighting set up. I've got the right camera gear 5D MKII and 580EXII and plenty of lenses (L) but know this is certainly not enough.

I found a new kit on craigs list. woman says she's a reseller and the kit includes everything in this link and is sufficient for up to 4 people / person portraits.

Price is $389 and made by QY160. http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/pho/3165542726.html

Any comments from anyone would be appreciated or a redirect to alternatives is fine as well.

Thanks for the help.

A panoramic photo from the top of Bald Mountain in Old Forge, NY. On the way up to the Rondaxe Fire Tower.

To see more visit
www.solargravity.com

So in reading my 1Dx manual I noticed that I could change the Shutter Release Time Lag from 55ms to an even faster 36ms. I noted that the default is set at 55ms. It seems you would want this to be short as possible (36ms) so is there any downsides to making the change to 36ms from 55ms?

The manual says "Normally, the shutter release is controlled for a stable release time lag. By setting [Shortened], this stabilization control can be omitted to make the shutter-release time lag shorter."

I have no idea what this means or the ramifications of setting the lag to be even shorter. Does this mean the shutter box won't be stable or something and have some sort of adverse affect?? I'm trying to see what the downside is because my instinct would seem to suggest you would want the shortest shutter lag possible. There has to be a reason why the slower setting is the default.

Any thoughts? Can someone help explain this to me?

Thank you.

So here's an idea I've been mulling over for a while...
There are already 3rd party manufacturers (SigRoKina etc), who make 3rd Party lenses with AF, they take a few Canon lenses and bodies apart, look at the electrical signals going back and forth, and then build that capability into their own lenses. It's worked for the last 30 years or so quite nicely.

Now, think about the Sigma SD1 dslr (without laughing at the launch price). The mount is physically a Pentax PK-mount, but the electrical signals going between camera and lens are the same as EF lenses and bodies. They already knew how to make the lenses work with AF, seems they now know how to make bodies too.
There's also already another body that takes EF-lenses, the Hartblei H1-Cam, that at least operates the aperture on EF lenses (I'm not sure about IS, i'm pretty sure not AF), but then projects it to an MF back (like an IQ180 or whatever you mortgage your house to buy)

Now take into account that the new EOS-M probably will never take an FF sensor, and that probably means canon will never produce an M9-killer tiny-FF.



Now, imagine what I'm imagining.

A MILC/EVIL/mirrorless whatever, made by a 3rd-party (probably Sigma), with whatever sensor (maybe a D800-ish sensor, maybe a Foveon X3 15/46 Megapixel-ish sensor), with the Nikon-J1/EOS-M/650D AF-pixels inbuilt, with a flange distance of 10-20mm, with an adapter to take EF lenses with full AF and IS and whatever.

But the main point is, FF sensor: mirrorless body.

It's certainly possible, maybe Sigma's even working on one as we speak.

Would you buy one?
If it means you can use almost any glass ever made in live-view, plus if it means you can use your EF-mount FF glass on a smaller body with AF, what would you pay?
(presumably not the $10k of the SD1, for that I'd get a Leica M9 any day). $1k sound reasonable? maybe $2k?
Am I just clutching at straws for the last possibility of an affordable FF MILC with live-view (given the Leica M10 may or may not have live-view, but it will still never be affordable).

Come on Sigma, you're our only hope!