Canon officially announces the EOS R5 and EOS R6 along with 4 new lenses and two teleconverters

koenkooi

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Thanks very much for the info. I was curious because with my EOS R I was able to take 2200 photos and it only used half of the battery charge in the battery grip.

The difference in CIPA numbers between the R and R5 aren't as bad as I thought. Chances are I'll still easily get over 1000 shots with a battery grip on the R5.. right?

(320/370) * 2200 is about 1900, so 1000 should be a safe bet.
 
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What's your use case? I tend to get a great deal more than 350 with the R
I shoot a few images here and there over a longer period of time. I know that if I used the battery from 100% to 0% in a day I would get more, but that’s not how everyone uses there camera, hence the CIPA standard.
 
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I shoot a few images here and there over a longer period of time. I know that if I used the battery from 100% to 0% in a day I would get more, but that’s not how everyone uses there camera, hence the CIPA standard.
I see.. I find leaving the battery in the R over a few days that it will drain by itself, just from being in the camera. But yes my use case was quite different.. shooting a number of images in quick succession.
 
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Joules

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All fine and dandy, but the R is rated to 350’ish images, CIPA. And this exactly what I get. I don’t get three or four times that at all.
I was just pointing out that quoting a number of shots is a problematic number if the actual power draw is caused more by the time the camera is active rather than the act of really taking a picture.

The very post after your's posts drastically different shot numbers. Which illustrates well that use case is very relevant for the number of shots that can be expected. I think without knowing more about the way AF and IBIS are active during use, even you can't know for sure that you'll see a decrease in shots just based on the CIPA numbers.
 
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Joules

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The CIPA is a little confusing to me. I gather on my mirrorless I should only get about 340 shots but then I held the button down and filled up the memory card and the battery didn't move for all 1000 or so shots. Does it mean 340 bursts at a subject with a bit of chimping on the LCD to check each shot?
I did just describe what CIPA numbers mean as far as I could find in another post. See this:


TLDR: Don't take the number of shots literally. For mirrorless cameras, it should really be a time that given, not a number as far as I can tell.
 
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I did just describe what CIPA numbers mean as far as I could find in another post. See this:


TLDR: Don't take the number of shots literally. For mirrorless cameras, it should really be a time that given, not a number as far as I can tell.

Ah that rating would always let a DSLR win and doesn't reflect how a camera is used.. well not how I use my camera. I spend most of my time finding a bird, fox, bunny. Not taking a snap every few seconds. Thank you for pointing me back to that.
 
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Pixel

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Just saw the cameras, I’m beyond excited about the R5. The R6 however feels much like the R. The new battery grips make them feel like REAL cameras with great ergonomics like we typically expect from Canon.
 

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DootsHK

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I saw a few questions about the GPS on the R5/R6, here is what i found on a PDF on Canon's Website:

With Wi-Fi and Bluetooth Low Energy technology, photographers may pair their cameras with a smart device using the Canon Camera Connect app to perform GPS geotagging of photos and remote shooting

PDF file here.

Unfortunately, there is no built-in GPS, it would have been much more convenient. I like built-in GPS to tag landscape and search pictures later on.
 
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I was just pointing out that quoting a number of shots is a problematic number if the actual power draw is caused more by the time the camera is active rather than the act of really taking a picture.

The very post after your's posts drastically different shot numbers. Which illustrates well that use case is very relevant for the number of shots that can be expected. I think without knowing more about the way AF and IBIS are active during use, even you can't know for sure that you'll see a decrease in shots just based on the CIPA numbers.
Agreed, I’ll take that.

I seriously hope they have added the “IS mode 3” to IBIS also, that it only is active during exposure. I remember using my 85 L IS and the IS couldn’t be turned off and was active even when accessing menus. The only option was to switch it on and off on the actual lens. That sure didn’t help battery life, lol.
 
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koenkooi

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Agreed, I’ll take that.

I seriously hope they have added the “IS mode 3” to IBIS also, that it only is active during exposure. I remember using my 85 L IS and the IS couldn’t be turned off and was active even when accessing menus. The only option was to switch it on and off on the actual lens. That sure didn’t help battery life, lol.
Check the IBIS thread in this section, IBIS is controlled by the IS switch on the lens, you’ll only get an on/off menu entry for non-IS lenses.
 
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I see.. I find leaving the battery in the R over a few days that it will drain by itself, just from being in the camera.

Either you have a non-Canon battery, a faulty battery, or a camera problem. There should be no noticeable draining when the camera is off. Do you have wireless communication on, like WiFi?
 
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dcm

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Regarding the RF 100mm -500mm lens, according to Gordon at CameraLabs, here is the breakdown of apertures across the zoom range. Not too disappointing:
  1. f/4.5: 100mm - 151mm
  2. f/5.0: 152mm - 254mm
  3. f/5.6: 255mm - 363mm
  4. f/6.3: 364mm - 472mm
  5. f/7.1: 473mm - 500mm

It would sure be nice if they had a lockout at 473mm...I'd give up a tiny bit of range for not having to worry about losing 1/3 stop.

I guess it all depends on why you want to limit yourself to f/5.6.

You can just monitor the f stop through the viewfinder as you zoom. When you go above your max preferred f stop you can just back it off a little bit. This approach works for any chosen f stop you don’t want to exceed on any lens, mirrorless or not. This can be done easily by setting the f stop to f/5.6 before you zoom, and back off when it changes to f6.3. You could apply this method to the EF 100-400L II if you didn’t want to go above f/5.0. You are unlikely to notice the 1/3 stop change in most cases as others have noted. This has been my experience with the M series 55-200, 18-150, and 15-45 that all go to 6.3 at the long end.

Changing the exposure level increments to 1/2 stops to prolong the f/5.6 range as has been suggested. It just takes a bit longer to switch since the next increment is 6.7 instead of 6.3. On the EF-M 55-200 this extends the 5.6 range from about 150mm to 190mm. But the EV level metered is still the same so it decreases the shutter speed as you zoom or you’d be underexposing by a little bit in the extended range. In Av mode the shutter speed now changes at 150 to account for the EV change. So, have you gained anything? You really aren’t letting any more light in by prolonging f/5.6, that’s just physics.

The same thing happens on the 100-400L II. At 1/3 stops, the f stops are f/4.5 from 100-135, f/5.0 from 135-300, and f/5.6 from 300-400. Switching to 1/2 stops gives me f4.5 from 100-300 and f5.6 from 300-400. Extending the f/4.5 range may be tempting, but you just get a wider range of shutter speeds and ISO in this mode because it hasn’t changed the amount of light hitting the sensor. It only affects the settings the camera can choose to properly expose it.
 
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dcm

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Are you serious? Do not stop down... like in pinhole cameras? o_O

Actually, a lot like fixed aperture spotting scopes and telescopes, but with auto focus and image stabilization. Now you don’t have to mess with a mount adapter to attach a scope to your camera.
 
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koenkooi

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[..]Changing the exposure level increments to 1/2 stops to prolong the f/5.6 range as has been suggested. It just takes a bit longer to switch since the next increment is 6.7 instead of 6.3.[..]

I don't think switching to 1/2 stops actually changes the physical aperture size at 400mm, it only changes the number you see on screen and in the EXIF.

Placebo effect is a thing, so it might actually work for some people :)
 
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