Canon EOS R6 firmwave v1.5.0 changelog posted, download now available

koenkooi

CR Pro
Feb 25, 2015
3,610
4,190
The Netherlands
[..]I would have preferred if the R5 had the same mode dial as the R6, which can be instantly cycled through the modes, rather than the more awkward "press centre and turn dial" method of the R5, but Canon presumably thought the posh LCD panel added a bit of class to the design.
I removed all the modes I don't use on the R5, so cycling is quite quick for me.
 
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Oct 14, 2021
11
22
Good morninh to ALL.
What I need in next firmware is to be able to change from Q MENU people to animals or car.It's a very significant lack.
This. I currently have it mapped under 'My Menu' as 2nd best option. And I would also very much like to have the C1, C2 and C3 modes also being available for video shooting... Otherwise pretty happy with FW 1.5.0 so far :-D
 
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entoman

wildlife photography
May 8, 2015
1,998
2,438
UK
(Not sure why there's error in the R5 firmware thread where I can't comment)
Unlikely to be an error, more like a deliberate choice. After all, the update features for the R5 and R6 are identical, so it would be pointless having a separate thread devoted to each. Perhaps the best idea would have been to just combine the R5 and R6 articles so they had a common thread.
 
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entoman

wildlife photography
May 8, 2015
1,998
2,438
UK
That’s interesting to know.

For me it has been the exact opposite - I had 3-4 lockups using really fast CF-express cards (happened when data was writing to the card). I now use 170MB/s SD cards and have not had 1 lockup in over 20,000 frames. These days I just keep the CF express for taking 8k clips.. but have learnt not to trust them for stills (specifically for my camera).
What CF-E cards were you using when you had the lockups, and under what circumstances did the lockups occur? (were you shooting long bursts?)

I use Delkin 128GB (Read 1730, write 1540) shooting short RAW 3 or 4 frame bursts on the R5.

I'm pretty sure that my rare lockups occurred because I was simultaneously shooting JPEGs to an old SanDisk 64GB (Read 90, write 40).

It's tempting to keep old slow cards and use them for JPEG backups, but probably a better idea to dump them and only use the fastest cards available, when using high performance cameras such as the R5.

The problem is that these fast cards are very expensive, and there's no way of telling whether they are faulty until you start using them. I once bought a pack of four SanDisk Extreme Pro 64GB SD cards, which were all faulty - in my 5DMkiv the cards half-filled, and after that all subsequent frames were blank, with yellow warning triangles replacing the images. The cards were pre-formatted in the camera. Luckily I shoot duplicates to the CF card, and they were fine.
 
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sfericean

R3, R5, R6 x 2, & 1DXIII x 2
CR Pro
Sep 2, 2018
98
203
Bellflower, CA
www.youtube.com
I am struggling to understand the shoot to white balance feature. It seems to work correctly but then I get nothing to confirm the white balance aquired. Below are the steps that I'm taking. Am I doing something incorrectly?

1. Live view
2. "Q" button on upper right of screen.
3. White balance (3rd button down on the screen on the right)
4. Select custom white balance icon on the bottom row of the screen.
5. Select "Shoot to set WB"
6. Take a picture. To clarify; the little box does in fact show up on the screen where its attempting to take a WB reading.

And then the screen in the attached file. I've pressed the, set button, the info button, the trash button, I've attempted to move the AF selecter up and down. Nothing seems to happen at the end of that sequence and when the camera returns to live view, its certainly not the correct white balance. Its a very cool WB, nothing like the picture taken in an attempt to aquire WB.

Hopefully I'm making sense here.
 

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rosw

EOS R
Sep 13, 2012
35
8
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Berowne

... they sparkle still the right Promethean fire.
Jun 7, 2014
490
426
Not true, that version still has the IBIS bug. On the first shot after waking up the camera from power saving mode, the sensor always tilts and may blur the corners of the picture, if the shutter speed is low enough. If you're in burst mode, it may affect several shots.

Plus, you're missing new features.

Anyway, I'm keeping a backup of all previous firmwares since I bought my R6, just in case I ever need to downgrade (which hasn't been the case so far).
Ok, convinced and updated to FM vs. 1.3.1. :)
 
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