Flash in sunlight?

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dryanparker said:
neuroanatomist said:
Fill light. Overhead light means shadows under eyes, nose, etc. A flash fills in those shadows.

+1

I can't view the video referenced for some reason, but I will say you may be surprised how often flash is used in broad daylight, particularly by professionals. There's something to be said for the dramatic look that can be achieved with on or off-camera flashes during the day.

Try this: 1) Mount on-camera flash and set to ETTL mode. 2) Shoot in Aperture Priority mode. 3) ISO 100-400 depending on your sunlight, lower is better. 4) Evaluative metering. 5) Adjust your aperture so your shutter speed is between 1/250 and 1/200. 6) Fire away and let me know how it goes!

This can be used to pretty cool effect! I tend to use HSS so I can still keep shutter speeds high if required. Yes you lose flash power however if I'm close to the subject that isn't often an issue. I try to expose for the sky/background first, either using Aperture Priority or eyeballing it with Manual - this is usually at least ~2 stop underexposure on what the camera meters. I then use flash to light the subject, usually set to eTTL, and use flash exposure compensation to get the effect I want... ideally with off-camera flash but a Speedlite mounted on the camera works well too.

The pic below would have had the sky washed out without flash (1/4000sec @ f4, ISO 400)

 
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briansquibb

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cgardner said:
ETTL and Manual flash are really no different in terms of adjustment and workflow. With both you take a shot, see how it turned out, and adjust the flash power as needed.

Not quite so simple when taking a picture of something moving - such as children, pets, sports

cgardner said:
FEC and a manual power adjustment on the flash do exactly the same thing: change the flash duration. When FEC is adjusted on the flash rather than the camera the same dial is used.

Not quite so simple when the flash is not to hand

cgardner said:
The difference between Manual and ETTL is that with ETTL if the subject moves and the scene reflectance changes so does the exposure. The metering zones on the viewfinder are simply not precise enough to get it exposure correct.

But good enough to get close when the subject goes from sun to shade - especially when using spot metering on the subject

cgardner said:
With M control of flash you get the the point of correct exposure and stay there regardless of subject movement as long as the flash > subject distance stays the same. The results are more consistent and predictable.

So not that often then - at a wedding you wont get the time to take siting shots

cgardner said:
As for it being easy to learn? When I was a beginner 40 years ago manual was the only option. It was very simple to understand. At any given flash > subject distance only one power level will produce correct exposure. That's pretty easy to grasp no, even without instant replay. :D

If you try manual flash and use it a few times you come to realize that when you put your lights at the same distances the exposure always is the same. My standard indoor portrait set-up is to use my 580ex flashes in M mode at 1/2 power. I shoot from 8ft with fill on my bracket with the key light placed 5-1/2 ft from the nose of the subject — measured with my arm span. The result it the key light winds up 1 stop brighter creating a 2K+1F:1F 3:1 lighting ratio (reflected). The exposure is always f/8 at ISO 100 because there are no camera controlled variables. I can set up and shoot in minutes without the need for testing or trial and error.

Manual is perhaps less convenient in appearance, but if you understand how it works it is actually more convenient. For example I shot over 300 head shots for a church directory with my pair of 580ex flashes. I tried ETTL ratios but every change in subject clothing and skin tone caused the metering to change the exposure requiring FEC adjustment to get back to correct exposure. By comparison with manual flash once the flash distances were set to the subjects to record the full tonal range I was able to change subjects and not need to twiddle the dials. Every face, white, black and yellow was expose perfectly as were the black suits and white shirt collars. The backgrounds on all the shots matched perfectly. Why? Because I was in control, not the camera.

Dont see anything easier than slapping a flash on top and start shooting. Add extra flash is dead easy too - stick the flash on a stand and start shooting. eTTL is like using fully automatic - you will get a decent picture every time - just what a beginner needs.
 
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cgardner

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No argument from me that ETTL is a better choice in run and gun situations where subject — flash distance is constantly changing. But the context of this thread is the guy in the video shooting portraits. For that task and any other where the subject — flash distance doesn't change there results will be more consistent with manual power.

I know how to use both and have taught how to use both and studio lighting for years. I think everyones should master both so they will know when each is the best tool for the task at hand.

I've helped a lot of beginners with flash and the biggest hurdle is getting them past the notion that FEC = 0 is the "correct" exposure and if the camera does not produce optimal results at FEC=0 it somehow got the exposure "wrong". More often than no less than optimal results with ETTL flash are the result of composing the shot with something in the foreground that reflects the light and "fools" the metering.

The other confusing thing about ETTL mode and FEC is the lack of feedback regarding what % of total power is being used by the flash. For example if the flash is firing at 50% of capacity (i.e. 1/2 power) in a situation at FEC=0 increasing FEC to +1 will max it out at 100% and increasing FEC to +2 or +3 will have no effect. But there's no feedback to tell you that.

The quickest route to optimal exposure I've found is to rely on the clipping warning which tells me when and where content is losing detail. That way regardless of whether I'm using ETTL and FEC or M power settings I can look at the playback and know whether the point of optimal exposure is at the distance I want it. Regardless of how the power is regulated the physics are the same: the exposure will only be correct at one distance.
 
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briansquibb

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I guess we are going to have to agree to disagree - I do a LOT of multi flash shooting, nowadays with eTTL I can get set up and do shots in minutes that would have taken hours to set up manually.

I dont stick to FEB=0 anymore than Exposure Compensation = 0

I dont run out of flash power either, 5 x 580 is enough to overpower anything and get such fast recycle time I can shoot on H.

However for beginners with a single onboard flash IMHO the simplest and most effective way is to use eTTL.
 
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briansquibb said:
I guess we are going to have to agree to disagree - I do a LOT of multi flash shooting, nowadays with eTTL I can get set up and do shots in minutes that would have taken hours to set up manually.

I dont stick to FEB=0 anymore than Exposure Compensation = 0

I dont run out of flash power either, 5 x 580 is enough to overpower anything and get such fast recycle time I can shoot on H.

However for beginners with a single onboard flash IMHO the simplest and most effective way is to use eTTL.

Although I agree with everything you say, especially when using multiple speedlights, but I think it is important to learn how to use the flash properly too. I just picked up my first flashgun a few weeks ago, have had fun using both on and off camera & wireless ETTL, but I stumbled across some Scott Kelby training videos on YouTube as well as stuff from Joe McNally, and I have to say that using M mode with flash is not as difficult as I originally thought even for a beginner like me.

For example, most of the pro's set ISO=100, typically use apertures of f5.6 or f8, with shutter speeds of 1/125, 1/160 or 1/200, then play with the flash power output depending on distance to subject etc. It is a good way to learn
 
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briansquibb

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Del said:
briansquibb said:
I guess we are going to have to agree to disagree - I do a LOT of multi flash shooting, nowadays with eTTL I can get set up and do shots in minutes that would have taken hours to set up manually.

I dont stick to FEB=0 anymore than Exposure Compensation = 0

I dont run out of flash power either, 5 x 580 is enough to overpower anything and get such fast recycle time I can shoot on H.

However for beginners with a single onboard flash IMHO the simplest and most effective way is to use eTTL.

Although I agree with everything you say, especially when using multiple speedlights, but I think it is important to learn how to use the flash properly too. I just picked up my first flashgun a few weeks ago, have had fun using both on and off camera & wireless ETTL, but I stumbled across some Scott Kelby training videos on YouTube as well as stuff from Joe McNally, and I have to say that using M mode with flash is not as difficult as I originally thought even for a beginner like me.

For example, most of the pro's set ISO=100, typically use apertures of f5.6 or f8, with shutter speeds of 1/125, 1/160 or 1/200, then play with the flash power output depending on distance to subject etc. It is a good way to learn

Are you getting muddled between M mode on the camera - which is the normal way unless you just want some infill - or M mode on the flash which means every flash has to be set indiviually??

Not so convinced about 'most pro's set iso-100' as that depends entirely on the amount of ambient light so want in the photo, likewise the shutter speeds which seem on the low side unless you are dealing with stationary subjects
 
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