I'm using a strobe and a reflector to light a subject and I'm in spot metering mode. This had me wondering, is there a reason to use any of the different metering modes when using studio lighting?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Jim Saunders said:IIRC your strobe was manual? If so, if your camera is on manual exposure and the strobe is the only light in your photo then your metering mode on the camera doesn't affect anything so changing it doesn't make a difference.
If you're shooting with a strobe on manual and you have the camera set to a mode where the meter reading affects aperture (Av, P probably, the rest I haven't bothered trying) then it might noticeably erratic results.
If you have some kind of TTL light then metering mode makes a difference, but it's the same as metering daylight or any other continuous light source, and the results should be reasonably consistent.
Let me know if this isn't enough of answer.
Jim
neuroanatomist said:In Av mode with TTL flash, the camera will attempt to set flash exposure for the subject and background exposure for ambient. The camera metering mode (evaluative, spot, etc.) you choose will determine what area(s) of the background drive the shutter speed setting (subject to the flash in Av mode setting).
kat.hayes said:Sorry, I am not clear on what you meant by IIRC.
kat.hayes said:I am in manual mode using a studio strobe. However, I guess I will need to know this for using a flash strobe also.
Thanks.
neuroanatomist said:In Av mode with TTL flash, the camera will attempt to set flash exposure for the subject and background exposure for ambient. The camera metering mode (evaluative, spot, etc.) you choose will determine what area(s) of the background drive the shutter speed setting (subject to the flash in Av mode setting).
Jester74 said:In a studio using a studio strobe you can set the flash exposure via the flash output button on your strobe AND the aperture (and ISO) on your camera. The shutter speed must be set according to the spec of your strobe and the max flash sync speed of your camera... The aperture can be measured with a handheld light meter, preferably a spot meter... Ever heard about the zone system?
OR
Set your camera to manual mode, set ISO: 100, WB: flash, aperture:11, shutter speed: 1/60, strobe 1/2. Take a photo of your subject and check the histogram. If you're over (everything blown out), set a smaller aperture and try again. If everything is black then set a bigger aperture. After a few shots you will have a well-exposed picture, and voilá, you have the right aperture....
kat.hayes said:I am in manual mode using a studio strobe. However, I guess I will need to know this for using a flash strobe also.
Thanks.
neuroanatomist said:In Av mode with TTL flash, the camera will attempt to set flash exposure for the subject and background exposure for ambient. The camera metering mode (evaluative, spot, etc.) you choose will determine what area(s) of the background drive the shutter speed setting (subject to the flash in Av mode setting).
kat.hayes said:I have been doing exactly what you described in your first scenario. Though I’ve been keeping the shutter at 160 based on the max flash synch speed of my 5dm3. I didnt know that is also was based on the synch speed of the strobe...
I think I just realized my confusion. I’m using a handheld meter to determine the correct settings. In this case, the metering mode of the camera does not matter, is that correct? The metering mode of the camera only comes into play when using the camera to determine exposure? Thanks for your patience, I am still pretty new to all of this and trying to make sense of it all.
Jester74 said:In a studio using a studio strobe you can set the flash exposure via the flash output button on your strobe AND the aperture (and ISO) on your camera. The shutter speed must be set according to the spec of your strobe and the max flash sync speed of your camera... The aperture can be measured with a handheld light meter, preferably a spot meter... Ever heard about the zone system?
OR
Set your camera to manual mode, set ISO: 100, WB: flash, aperture:11, shutter speed: 1/60, strobe 1/2. Take a photo of your subject and check the histogram. If you're over (everything blown out), set a smaller aperture and try again. If everything is black then set a bigger aperture. After a few shots you will have a well-exposed picture, and voilá, you have the right aperture....
kat.hayes said:I am in manual mode using a studio strobe. However, I guess I will need to know this for using a flash strobe also.
Thanks.
neuroanatomist said:In Av mode with TTL flash, the camera will attempt to set flash exposure for the subject and background exposure for ambient. The camera metering mode (evaluative, spot, etc.) you choose will determine what area(s) of the background drive the shutter speed setting (subject to the flash in Av mode setting).
kat.hayes said:I think I just realized my confusion. I’m using a handheld meter to determine the correct settings. In this case, the metering mode of the camera does not matter, is that correct?
kat.hayes said:The metering mode of the camera only comes into play when using the camera to determine exposure? Thanks for your patience, I am still pretty new to all of this and trying to make sense of it all.
kat.hayes said:Jim,
What do you mean by:
“You're correct, but this is true only for when camera doesn't control your lighting (i.e. manual strobe in a dark room, or daylight with no flash).”
I am using PocketWizards to trigger my strobe but there are no control on the camera for the lights, I need to manually change them on the back of the strobe. Are you referring to a Flash/strobe mounted to a camera?
kat.hayes said:What do you mean by a “manual” strobe?
By strobe, I am referring to studio strobes and I am using a handheld meter. My strobes are controlled by changing the dials on the back of them. I am suspecting that you are referring to a Flash/strobe mounted to a camera that reads available lighting and sets it that way?
Thanks!