Advice on tilt-shift on crop sensor 7D

Hello, I am thinking of renting a TS-E 17mm to use on my 7D. I've never used a tilt shift at all and want to experiment with it. I'm more interested in the shift (straightening converging lines) than the tilt ("miniature" look, slim DOF) and will generally be shooting at a small aperture, probably f/8.

Is there anything about a TS (in general or specific to the 17mm) that makes it different on a crop sensor that I should know of? Is it still just like another 17mm i.e. it ends up being a 27mm equivalent but everything else works the same? Any other general tips about using a tilt shift you could give a first timer?
 
Jan 29, 2011
10,673
6,120
Make sure you get the small tilt knob, the regular larger one fouls the popup on many APS-C cameras and is very tight on those that don't actually foul.

Other than that, they are great fun, I use the 17TS-E a lot and don't dismiss the tilt, it is the way to get maximum sharpness in an image not just the 'toy' reverse tilt look, besides, the 17 f4 really doesn't give a very narrow dof when reverse tilted anyway the longer focal lengths are much better for that.

As an aside, read this tutorial on how to use tilt, shoft really is pretty self explanatory, but tilt is every bit as powerful and is not emulate-able, like shift is.

http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/using_tilt.html
 
Upvote 0
Jul 21, 2010
31,244
13,106
It'll give a 27mm FF-equivalent FoV like any other 17mm lens on APS-C. It's a great lens!

privatebydesign said:
Make sure you get the small tilt knob, the regular larger one fouls the popup on many APS-C cameras and is very tight on those that don't actually foul.

The small one is on the lens when purchased new. Good point since it's a rental, I'd hope most rental houses ship with that one since the only thing you get with the large one is a bit more comfort/torque (I did switch my TS lenses to the large knob).
 
Upvote 0
Jan 29, 2011
10,673
6,120
GrgK said:
Before I bought my 6D I'd used my TS-E on APS-C and had problem with picture quality. There was a strong purple tint at the edges in each photo taken in tilt or shift position. But since you are only renting it's definitely worth a try, ts lenses are great fun! 8)

That is an interesting observation I haven't heard before, though I have never used TS-E lenses on an APS-C camera maybe there was an amount of mirror box shadowing.

The 17TS-E definitely looks better on the 1Ds MkIII than the 7D MkII or the 60D.
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=487&Camera=736&Sample=0&FLI=0&API=0&LensComp=487&CameraComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=0
 
Upvote 0
I have the rental now, for the weekend. So far, so good. Only been working the shift so far but want to experiment with the tilt. The knob appears to be a big knob but it does not interfere with the flash housing on the 7D. I took a picture of the camera with the lens on it (from my iphone) and will try to upload that later. Meantime here's a comparison of no shift versus shift. Great results, I really like it.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5099.jpg
    IMG_5099.jpg
    612.6 KB · Views: 224
  • IMG_5103.jpg
    IMG_5103.jpg
    618.2 KB · Views: 239
Upvote 0
One other comment - for each shot (regardless whether I shifted) i exposed slightly "to the right". Yet the shots after shifting all appeared darker. Not so dark I couldn't fix in post. But I think the way to go is to check the light meter exposure before shifting, set the exposure settings, then stick with those settings after shifting (even though the light meter will indicate overexposure). Am I nuts to notice this or is this a known thing? Again, it's the TS-E 17mm L on a 7D. Both shots were at ISO 100 and f/9. Top one (no shift) was 1/250. Bottom one was 1/640.
 
Upvote 0
Jan 29, 2011
10,673
6,120
Good24 said:
One other comment - for each shot (regardless whether I shifted) i exposed slightly "to the right". Yet the shots after shifting all appeared darker. Not so dark I couldn't fix in post. But I think the way to go is to check the light meter exposure before shifting, set the exposure settings, then stick with those settings after shifting (even though the light meter will indicate overexposure). Am I nuts to notice this or is this a known thing? Again, it's the TS-E 17mm L on a 7D. Both shots were at ISO 100 and f/9. Top one (no shift) was 1/250. Bottom one was 1/640.

Sorry, forgot to mention that. AE doesn't work when shifted, the light falls onto the meter sensor at the wrong angle and gives false readings, you have to use manual or dial in an appropriate EV value that changes as the shift amount changes. I find M mode easiest as it stays consistent.
 
Upvote 0
privatebydesign said:
Good24 said:
One other comment - for each shot (regardless whether I shifted) i exposed slightly "to the right". Yet the shots after shifting all appeared darker. Not so dark I couldn't fix in post. But I think the way to go is to check the light meter exposure before shifting, set the exposure settings, then stick with those settings after shifting (even though the light meter will indicate overexposure). Am I nuts to notice this or is this a known thing? Again, it's the TS-E 17mm L on a 7D. Both shots were at ISO 100 and f/9. Top one (no shift) was 1/250. Bottom one was 1/640.

Sorry, forgot to mention that. AE doesn't work when shifted, the light falls onto the meter sensor at the wrong angle and gives false readings, you have to use manual or dial in an appropriate EV value that changes as the shift amount changes. I find M mode easiest as it stays consistent.

Thanks, that makes sense. Yes I use manual... will just have to set exposure before shifting then have the discipline to leave it alone.
 
Upvote 0