Best setup for falling stars

[stephan00]

I'm spending next Monday night trying to capture the falling stars and an not quite sure how best to do this. I checked the forum and there are a few threads about it, but mostly about the night sky and not so much about falling stars.

Currently I own the 7D and 5DIII and plan to use both on tripods with the usual trimmings (mirror lock-up, remote trigger with 2 or 10 seconds delay), but haven't fully decided about the lenses and the camera settings.

Lens-wise I have at my disposal the following (partly my own, partly from a friend) (U)WA lenses:

Samyang 8 mm 3.5 fisheye
Canon 10-22 3.5-4.5
Samyang 14 mm 2.8
Canon 16-35 mm II 2.8

My initial idea was to use the following setup:

5DIII + Sammy 14, at 2.8, 30 seconds, ISO 800
7D + 10-22, at 10 mm 3.5, 30 seconds, ISO 1600

What is your idea about that? Catching falling stars is the main objective, so I might bend or even break the rule of 600 a bit, preferring photos with them and some motion blur of the others stars. Also, I know that I could crank the ISO quite a lot higher with the 5DIII, but shorter times again reduce my chance of getting a meteor.

Unfortunately I am going to the countryside with some friends for this and don't have the opportunity to properly test the settings on-site beforehand. However, I took some photos there last year, and here is an example with the 5DIII, the 24 1.4 at 2.2, with 51 seconds and ISO 400 (never mind the blur, I wasn't properly supporting the cam). This year it might be a bit darker, because we're going to be there between 2:00 and 4:00, and last year we were there at 23:00.

I'll do some initial test-shots when we get settled there, but a small hint would be most welcome. Also whether the 8 mm fishy might be a better choice for the 7D.

 

[surapon]

Dear Friends.
I do not know how to shoot the stars with Wide Angle Lens yet, But I use my EF 600 mm. shoot the Moon and the Comet ( First time in my life) = The Comet Panstars - 3/12/2013. I have Learn From the PRO that when we use the Long Tel. Lens, We must set the Super Fast Shutter Speed such as 1/500 Sec. to not let the moon Movement Blur.
Yes, I set My Canon 5D MK II at the TV.( shutter Speed Priority) at 1/ 500 sec, Set ISO = 2500 and the Camera will auto set F = 4.0.
It's works.
Enjoy
Surapon

 

[stephan00]

Dear Surapon,

Thanks for you reply. However, I'm not intending to take photos of comets in outer space but rather of the Perseids, when they collide with Earth's atmosphere

Best,
Stephan

 

[dswtan]

Why wouldn't you take everything and experiment with some combinations in the field? That's what I would recommend. Try different things there. Be a little systematic -- you can't predict the meteors on the night, but you can control what you are doing.

Your basic idea looks fine, if a little rigid. I would also go higher on the 5D3 ISO (I was using 6400 last weekend at 10-20 secs for the Milky Way on the Samyang 14 and 24). You might try varying some things like shutter duration in the field. I don't like the 7D at 1600, but if you're heavy in the postprocessing, it can work. Good postprocessing is crucial anyway for the best night shots anyway IMO.

Are you planning to manually keep taking 30s shots through the night, or do you have an automatic timer? The latter would help -- more time to admire the sky and move about.

Do you know about the radiant in meteor showers? Don't necessarily shoot towards the radiant, but it's one option. If trying to make an artistic shot rather than just get a meteor, remember to pick your foreground carefully -- sometimes non-trivial in the dark. Choose a smaller aperture and bump up your ISO if you need the depth of field for a closer foreground.

The main thing is to get lucky -- or take many shots until you are!

My "winner" from last year: http://500px.com/photo/11734889

 

[surapon]

Dear Stephan00.
Thanksssss, Yes, I will try to learn to shoot like you Good Photo. Yes, My Home is near the Big Town and have a lot of Light Pollution on the sky, It Almost no way to see the beautiful sky full with the bright stars like your home town.
But One day, I will invite all of my Friends/ Photographers go to the Rural Area as the Group and shoot the Sky full of the stars.----Yes, To protect the Bad People Rob us too---Ha, Ha, Ha.
Thanks.
Surapon

 

[surapon]

Dear Sir, Mr. dswtan.
Thanks you, Sir for your Great Knowledge that you share with us, and Great/ Beautiful Photo of the Scenery sky with wonderful Stars.
Yes, Sir, I have learn the Great Point of View from you to day---Not just Pure Sky and the Stars, You put the Scenery in to this Photo= that make a great story teller too.
Thanks you, SIR.
Surapon

 

[Mr Bean]

Are you planning to manually keep taking 30s shots through the night, or do you have an automatic timer? The latter would help -- more time to admire the sky and move about.

This is what I was thinking. The 5D + 16-35 taking 30sec pics, using a remote timer. Set the timer to have a 1sec delay between pics, but let it run for a few hours. And get the biggest memory card you can buy

From a lens perspective, anything from 21 down to 15 would suit. As the Perseids appear in a certain part of the sky, just aim, set and enjoy

 

[Frost]

I am in NO way an expert, but have had some fun playing at this before, unfortunately I have been under clouds the last 2 years of persieds.


1. When taking star field shots those stationary stars have a chance to 'burn in' on the sensor at lower ISO's.

2. However, because meteors are fleeting you are going to want to pump your ISO to catch them.


With the 5d iii you'll be comfortable shooting at around 6400 and adjust your shutter/aperture to your preference.

I'd say start at your widest aperture (1.4, 2.8, 4) then adjust your shuttter til you get a decent exposure.

This may mean a fairly short shutter speed. However, if you have an intervalometer you can set it to keep taking MANY shots.

You can then stack any shots that captured a meteor in PS and 'paint' them into one image. (layers are your friend)

If you want to get a 'radiant' shot, aim your camera up at Perseus and you'll get a radiant/starburst-y effect.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikegardnerphotography/8273529497/#

With the 7D i wouldn't go over 1600 ISO, too much noise. 25-30 seconds at 2.8.


If you still want more detailed instructions just google 'photographing a meteor shower' there are TONS of resources on the net.


your initial set-up idea looks good to me.

5DIII + Sammy 14, at 2.8, 30 secs (probably much less), ISO 6400 (or the 16-35mm)

7D + 10-22, at 10 mm 3.5, 30 seconds, ISO 1600


I'll be shooting with both my 6D and T3i this year, I'll probably do a radiant timelapse with the 6D and set the T3i at several different parts of the sky.

Find something 'INTERESTING' that you can put in the foreground...tree, rocks, skyline, etc.



Maybe try some light painting...take a flash light and paint the foreground objects with light to make them pop. If you leave the camera in the same spot, you can then composite the foreground with any meteor shots in post.

Above all have fun.

Cheers and enjoy.

 

[stephan00]

Unfortunately I don't have any timer :'( , so I'm gonna be sitting there for a few hours, operating the remote-trigger, and change lenses in between, once I've figured out the camera setting for my surroundings.

Thanks for all the tips, especially about the foreground - I probably would have pointed the cams up into the sky, but I'll try to find something, a tree or a shed or something like that.

I'll post some results here, if I get any which are good enough

 

[celestyx]

5DIII + Sammy 14, at 2.8, 30 seconds, ISO 800
7D + 10-22, at 10 mm 3.5, 30 seconds, ISO 1600

This looks good to me. I would just increase the iso to 1600/3200 on the 5DIII. For stars more is never needed : you don't want to burn the stars, and the increase in noise is not worth the increase in luminosity of the stars.

You may have problems focusing on the stars correctly, try focusing on an element of the foreground which is far away and do a couple of test shots.

Know the direction the meteors will be coming from before hand and try to compose your picture with the foreground, as said previously. You can try to paint the foreground with a light if you don't want it to be too dark, just try on one exposure and you can blend this foreground with the other pictures taken in the same place in post production.

Here is an example I did with 7D+15-85mm at 15mm, f/3.5, 30s :
http://500px.com/photo/41639584

 

[surapon]

Dear Friends.
Yes, After I read your Comments and " HOW TO "---I will Try to go out to the Rural / Farm Area , and Try to Shoot the Stars.
Thousand thanks, SIR.
After the Clear sky Photos , Not the Cloudy Rain sky--I will report back to you.
Surapon

 

[Don Haines]

Unfortunately I don't have any timer :'( , so I'm gonna be sitting there for a few hours, operating the remote-trigger, and change lenses in between, once I've figured out the camera setting for my surroundings.

Thanks for all the tips, especially about the foreground - I probably would have pointed the cams up into the sky, but I'll try to find something, a tree or a shed or something like that.

I'll post some results here, if I get any which are good enough

If you don't have a timer, you can use a rubber band to hold down a piece of eraser over the shutter and manually time the exposure.... Crude, but works...

 

[extremeinstability]

I'd consider sticking a fast 50mm on a full frame and going with that. http://www.extremeinstability.com/2012-12-13.htm That is what I got last year with a Sigma 50 on a 5D II. 20 seconds 1600 ISO apparently on this one then stacked the frames.

Too bad coma so bad on that lens and well all the fast canons. This year going to try the Samyang 24 F1.4 on the 6D. Just because it at least doesn't coma. 14 too wide unless something crazy happens. If I had a 50mm that didn't coma I'd probably chose that as the go to lens for this. 35mm probably best on full frame for it. Hard to say but fast lens helps a lot.

Everyone that goes out to do that should at least have a cable release they can lock in and let the camera go in consecutive shooting mode.

 

[stephan00]

celestyx & extremeinstability: thanks for your input (and very nice photos )

I might throw my 50 1.4 into the bag, but assume that it might be a bit too narrow for my taste. I can still use the 35-end of the 16-35, if I find that the 14 is too wide.

I don't think that with the Hähnel Combi TF remote-trigger I can use continuous shooting without having to keep the finger on the button, but I'll give that a try today. I used to have a cable release, but that was a cheap one and it doesn't fit any longer, now that I've got rid of my 550.

 

[shaynewillis]

Put your camera on a tripod. To get all the beautiful streaks you'll need an exposure that's at least 30 seconds long so your camera has to be still — very, very still.

 

[lintoni]

Best set up for falling starts?

You could try the Betty Ford Clinic?

 

[LewisShermer]

I tried this for the first time last night in my garden. I was pointing the wrong way for the milky way (as that'd be pointing towards my flat) and failed to catch any significant asteroids (as I was only out there for 10 mins just playing about)

I'm pretty sure that if I recreated these settings in the proper settings and persevered for a good amount of time these would serve me well:

canon 5Diii, 24-105L @ 24mm, f8, 1600iso, 30 sec, around 2900k for white balance (or shoot auto in raw and sort it out after)

I did do a bit of noise reduction in post.

you might want to pop the odd flash off at f8 if there are any points of interest within the frame when shooting...

it's not a great shot as it was just messing about, but the theory is sound...

 

[CarlTN]

I'm spending next Monday night trying to capture the falling stars and an not quite sure how best to do this. I checked the forum and there are a few threads about it, but mostly about the night sky and not so much about falling stars.

Currently I own the 7D and 5DIII and plan to use both on tripods with the usual trimmings (mirror lock-up, remote trigger with 2 or 10 seconds delay), but haven't fully decided about the lenses and the camera settings.

Lens-wise I have at my disposal the following (partly my own, partly from a friend) (U)WA lenses:

Samyang 8 mm 3.5 fisheye
Canon 10-22 3.5-4.5
Samyang 14 mm 2.8
Canon 16-35 mm II 2.8

My initial idea was to use the following setup:

5DIII + Sammy 14, at 2.8, 30 seconds, ISO 800
7D + 10-22, at 10 mm 3.5, 30 seconds, ISO 1600

What is your idea about that? Catching falling stars is the main objective, so I might bend or even break the rule of 600 a bit, preferring photos with them and some motion blur of the others stars. Also, I know that I could crank the ISO quite a lot higher with the 5DIII, but shorter times again reduce my chance of getting a meteor.

Unfortunately I am going to the countryside with some friends for this and don't have the opportunity to properly test the settings on-site beforehand. However, I took some photos there last year, and here is an example with the 5DIII, the 24 1.4 at 2.2, with 51 seconds and ISO 400 (never mind the blur, I wasn't properly supporting the cam). This year it might be a bit darker, because we're going to be there between 2:00 and 4:00, and last year we were there at 23:00.

I'll do some initial test-shots when we get settled there, but a small hint would be most welcome. Also whether the 8 mm fishy might be a better choice for the 7D.

Nice airplane lights...my advice would be to not use a 7D.

 

[CarlTN]

Dear Friends.
I do not know how to shoot the stars with Wide Angle Lens yet, But I use my EF 600 mm. shoot the Moon and the Comet ( First time in my life) = The Comet Panstars - 3/12/2013. I have Learn From the PRO that when we use the Long Tel. Lens, We must set the Super Fast Shutter Speed such as 1/500 Sec. to not let the moon Movement Blur.
Yes, I set My Canon 5D MK II at the TV.( shutter Speed Priority) at 1/ 500 sec, Set ISO = 2500 and the Camera will auto set F = 4.0.
It's works.
Enjoy
Surapon

You let too much blue in, and the moon shots should have been sharper, it seems to me. But they're interesting pictures nonetheless.

 

[CarlTN]

I'd consider sticking a fast 50mm on a full frame and going with that. http://www.extremeinstability.com/2012-12-13.htm That is what I got last year with a Sigma 50 on a 5D II. 20 seconds 1600 ISO apparently on this one then stacked the frames.

Too bad coma so bad on that lens and well all the fast canons. This year going to try the Samyang 24 F1.4 on the 6D. Just because it at least doesn't coma. 14 too wide unless something crazy happens. If I had a 50mm that didn't coma I'd probably chose that as the go to lens for this. 35mm probably best on full frame for it. Hard to say but fast lens helps a lot.

Everyone that goes out to do that should at least have a cable release they can lock in and let the camera go in consecutive shooting mode.

Yours is the best shot of this thread, very nice job! I too am thinking of the 24mm Samyang or Rokinon with my 6D...for ISON (but I have a feeling I will also use longer lenses). If you want a good 50mm f/1.4, try the Voigtlander 58mm Nokton SLii. I will probably never sell mine. Unbelievable wide open to the corners, even on full frame. I use a Photodiox Nikon-to-Canon adaptor, works well.