Only if you pay with cash!wow, if the R5ii and the 35 1.2 launch on the same day, my wallet will be getting a lot lighter...
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Only if you pay with cash!wow, if the R5ii and the 35 1.2 launch on the same day, my wallet will be getting a lot lighter...
I know a photographer who has been to the last 3 Olympics and heading to Paris. He's a Nikon shooter and Nikon has put the latest and greatest into his hands for each one. This year, Sony is sending him their latest as well. I'm pretty sure any high profile Canon shooter will have a pair of R1s in their hands courtesy of Canon in Paris. There will also likely be R1s that can be checked out from CPS at the famous equipment room https://petapixel.com/2021/07/30/in...-stocked-olympic-pro-camera-service-facility/Agreed. I do not see how Canon gets the R1 into photographers' hands for the Paris Olympics in July unless they do a very fast formal announcement in May and ship in early June.
No, not everyone. I usually shoot f/1.2-f/2 for individuals.Maybe I'm the only photographer that wants to isolate my subject. I guess the rest of you want everything in focus?
Well, the woman with the glasses looking away and the baby she's holding are in sharp focus. The back of the bride's (?) dress is close, just a tiny bit in front of the focal plane. The people she's chatting with who are facing the camera are behind the plane of best focus, clearly. Razor thin DoF is always a challenge. But what matters is if those viewing the images (clients, etc.) are happy with them.Maybe I'm the only photographer that wants to isolate my subject. I guess the rest of you want everything in focus? I shoot wide open all the time. This is an uncropped image, shot at 1.2 on the 50mm. I'm not across the room, I'm just up a couple of steps shooting down. But I shoot much closer than this sometimes too. I don't care about the background people in most cases.
I'm typically at f/1.8-2, especially at standard and short tele focal lengths. With the 85/1.2 wide open, unless the subject is looking directly at the camera often only one eye is in sharp focus. That was fun at first, 'because I could' but I ended up stopping down a little and being happier with the results. Using f/2 gives good subject isolation, but the whole face in focus (or narrower, with a longer lens...the 100-300/2.8 is great for portraits!). Using f/1.8-2 most often is why the 28-70/2 replaces a set of primes, for me.No, not everyone. I usually shoot f/1.2-f/2 for individuals.
I chose that one because I didn't want to splash too many people's faces on the platform. The bride was clearly the target and she was twirling around dancing, so overall I thought it came out pretty well. And yes, the client was more than pleased.Well, the woman with the glasses looking away and the baby she's holding are in sharp focus. The back of the bride's (?) dress is close, just a tiny bit in front of the focal plane. The people she's chatting with who are facing the camera are behind the plane of best focus, clearly. Razor thin DoF is always a challenge. But what matters is if those viewing the images (clients, etc.) are happy with them.
Can’t argue with what you like, and a few ultra shallow reception shots with just part of the person who’s the focal point of the picture works well, but personally I think that if that image were to be printed in an A3 size book for example, the lack of focus in 99% of the picture spoils the image.Maybe I'm the only photographer that wants to isolate my subject. I guess the rest of you want everything in focus? I shoot wide open all the time. This is an uncropped image, shot at 1.2 on the 50mm. I'm not across the room, I'm just up a couple of steps shooting down. But I shoot much closer than this sometimes too. I don't care about the background people in most cases.
Good thing I wasn't shooting for that look then. And if we are all going to shoot exactly the same, then let's just let the camera make all the decisions for us and call it a day. Variety is the spice of life.Can’t argue with what you like, and a few ultra shallow reception shots with just part of the person who’s the focal point of the picture works well, but personally I think that if that image were to be printed in an A3 size book for example, the lack of focus in 99% of the picture spoils the image.
For those metrics in a global shutter camera, it is probably easier to just look at the maximum frame rate the camera can do with full AE/AF and how high the hit rate is, since it can be bottlenecked by things other than pure readout speed like the AF processing algorithms and such.It's still relevant since it determines the maximum frame rate the camera can shoot. It's also important for AF since all AF data comes from the sensor. The faster the camera can get access to that data the more time it has to process and act upon it which should improve AF performance.
That was my point as well. To each their own, if I had taken the shot, it would’ve ended up in the digital bin.Can’t argue with what you like, and a few ultra shallow reception shots with just part of the person who’s the focal point of the picture works well, but personally I think that if that image were to be printed in an A3 size book for example, the lack of focus in 99% of the picture spoils the image.
I'd venture that any one of us could easily say that about a lot of photographs that you or any other photographer take.That was my point as well. To each their own, if I had taken the shot, it would’ve ended up in the digital bin.
I love the wide-open look, and for me it depends on the context:I'm typically at f/1.8-2, especially at standard and short tele focal lengths. With the 85/1.2 wide open, unless the subject is looking directly at the camera often only one eye is in sharp focus. That was fun at first, 'because I could' but I ended up stopping down a little and being happier with the results. Using f/2 gives good subject isolation, but the whole face in focus (or narrower, with a longer lens...the 100-300/2.8 is great for portraits!). Using f/1.8-2 most often is why the 28-70/2 replaces a set of primes, for me.
I loved the R5 so much I bought a second one. To me, they are 99% perfection. If they put in the firmware to remove the 30 minute record limit my happiness would know no bounds.I grabbed a refurb R5 at black friday for $2200 US....looking like a great choice. I'll have it a whole year before mkIIs are on the street, and if i decide to sell I won't lose more than a week or two worth of rental fees. I debated waiting until the II was announced, but that's when I thought it was February.
Brian
Love mine, too! I think the only thing I'd like is a pre-shoot with good buffer.I loved the R5 so much I bought a second one. To me, they are 99% perfection. If they put in the firmware to remove the 30 minute record limit my happiness would know no bounds.
Also for chrissake can we dial in an exposure time over 30 seconds without using a bulb? It two thousand and goddamn twenty four.I loved the R5 so much I bought a second one. To me, they are 99% perfection. If they put in the firmware to remove the 30 minute record limit my happiness would know no bounds.
Just use the internal intervalometer and you can select virtually any shutter time you like.Also for chrissake can we dial in an exposure time over 30 seconds without using a bulb? It two thousand and goddamn twenty four.
I recall that you loved the R mount adaptor for adding ND/CPL filters to the EF11-24 to avoid very large front filters. Will this change for you using the RF10-20?Actually, I'll likely be sending off my EF 11-24/4L to MPB pretty soon, since the RF 10-20/4L I just ordered is currently out for delivery on a UPS truck.
It is interesting for Sony fans to be on the other foot compared to the R5 overheating scandal.Fortunately : it's a Big chance there won't be a global shutter !
When you see all the reviews about the A9III (and as usual, a lot of them are made by paid youtubers pro-Sony), it's awful : this $6000 camera has the worst IQ of any FF camera !
A 15 years back in Time !
The R1 will crush it for IQ.
It will. But when packing for my last trip, I was shoehorning the 11-24 into the bag and strongly considered not bringing it...then considered an upcoming trip where I'll hiking in the Swiss Alps and suddenly the much smaller size and lower weight made a lot of sense. I do still have some pristine 10-stop ND gel pieces, I'll cut one for the RF 10-20/4 and bring it along just in case.I recall that you loved the R mount adaptor for adding ND/CPL filters to the EF11-24 to avoid very large front filters. Will this change for you using the RF10-20?