Maybe the ear and the tip of the nose could be a little soft at some stop in between, then, and/or take a step back from the dog. But I like the effect of the distortion from being too close. Works better with dogs than with people, apparently. I do have an interesting print from about 1972 of a shot of a friend that I took with a fisheye lens. I must have been almost up to his nose. It may turn out that the dog picture would lose a lot its charm and immediacy with more thought in the technique.privatebydesign said:With respect, assuming the dog's head is around 6" from nose to ears and you were 3.5' away, you'd have to stop down to f16 to get the nose eyes and ears in "acceptable focus".CanonGrunt said:... you would have to stop down to f/2 just to get her whole head in focus. A decent bokeh test though. Was also shot out 3 1/2 feet away from her.
That is not normal. If no other lenses create that on your body I'd say there is an issue with the one lens. Send to back and get another copy.MG42 said:Hi all,
Long time lurker, recently picked up one of the new 85s, pretty solid lens so far, my only issue is I'm getting some vertical diffraction spikes on any point light sources in the frame. Anyone else encountered this in their shots?
Have tried without a lens hood and with a couple of hoods and that has made no difference. Attached photo is an example of the issue.
Now... that didn't take half a year. Just shy of 5 months.hne said:It's been close. Real close, me buying an AD600.Viggo said:How about an AD600?hne said:Really nice lens, this.
But I need to get a more powerful battery powered flash so I can use a larger aperture. This was a Yongnuo YN685 at roughly full power in an Elinchrom Rotalux 70cm deep octa just out of frame on the left and I had to stop down to f/2.8 to get X sync speed. HSS kills light output.
I just don't think I could get it to balance well on top of a Manfrotto 5001b (which is the largest stand I've been able to fit in carry-on luggage). So I've contemplated getting a Profoto B2 but then I'd need either two sets of modifiers or a really bulky adapter. The Elinchrom Quadra or ELB400 seem a better option then, but if I am to live without TTL I want the ability to meter the light and the Sekonic 858 that seems to be the only one that can measure HSS and HS flash adds a significant overhead to the price...
Ask again in half a year and I might have a solution. But until then... I'll stop down a stop or add a second flash when really needed.
I've been testing this on an EOS R, and I also see the slightly cloudy catchlights/reflections in my kids' eyes. Only on this lens. Just like on your shot of the cat.EF 85/1.4L IS & 6D. (ISO 6400; f1.4; 1/90sec.) Prepared with LR 5.6. First Pic. no changes at all, second Pic. ca. 100% Crop.
I am quit happy, but my comparison is the EF 85/1.8. Here are two examples wide open. You can see the longitudinal chromatic aberrations (green/mangenta) in the first one and the purple fringing in the second. Both pics without any changes, only export in LR 5.6.I've been testing this on an EOS R, and I also see the slightly cloudy catchlights/reflections in my kids' eyes. Only on this lens. Just like on your shot of the cat.
I also wonder if this lens's IS sometimes works against itself. I've just never been thrilled with the images I get from it. Without PP work, I can't get subjects to pop, to separate well from the background when wide open or nearly wide open. I miss my 85 1.2L II...