How to Expose and get sharp Focus of Moon

AlanF said:
There are now several posts that you get sharper images on the old 100-400 and now the new 100-400 II with IS turned off. Is that true for just these lenses or for all lenses? Why does IS cause problems? Does using a tripod cause the problems (I thought the newer lenses detected they were on a tripod)?
I don't think IS causes problems in this situation, since the exposures are so short. On the contrary, I think IS could even be helpful, to reduce residual vibrations from shutter/mirror. Probably not much with a good tripod, but at least not hurtful. For longer exposures (>1 sec), the matters are different, since the IS image tends to drift around on those timescales. In astrophotography, these longer exposuse times are commonly used, which is why I think many associate astrophotography with no IS, but as I said, it does not strictly valid for shorter exposures.
 
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Steve Balcombe

Too much gear
Aug 1, 2014
283
223
epsiloneri said:
If you are aiming for as much detail as possible of the moon (without foreground objects), it is generally best to shoot when the moon is as high as possible in the sky, since that reduces the air column towards it, and hence "seeing" (blurring) effects from the atmosphere.

I agree this can make a huge difference. It's not necessarily blurring, you can get the same rippling effect as atmospherics in summer landscapes. The night-time moon is highest in winter so this is a good time of year (in the northern hemisphere) to practise your moon shots. Also because the nights are longer the sky is dark at a more civilised hour! Two or three days after "first quarter" ("waxing gibbous") is particularly convenient as you get nice detail and it is high in the sky in the mid-late evening. I think all my good moon shots are waxing gibbous taken in the winter!

The next first quarter is Jan 27, and three days later the moon is at its highest (56.1deg) at 8.59 pm in London - a few minutes later here in Taunton. A couple of days either side of that should give great results if the weather is suitable.

Numbers taken from here: https://www.timeanddate.com/moon/uk/london
 
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fotoray

5D Mark III
Jul 20, 2010
198
0
zim said:
fotoray is your moon rotated 90deg?

No. My image is not rotated 90 deg. It is posted exactly as shot. If my image is compared with Keith's, there is an apparent 90 deg difference caused by a complexity of changing geometries depending on when and where the image was taken.

While the moon generally shows us the same face all the time due to tidal locking, what we see does differ somewhat. Compare the surface features of two nice images posted by Keith Breazeal and you can see they appear rotated with respect to each other.

You will see a 90 deg rotation of surface features between moonrise and moonset of the same full moon.
 
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fotoray said:
zim said:
fotoray is your moon rotated 90deg?

No. My image is not rotated 90 deg. It is posted exactly as shot. If my image is compared with Keith's, there is an apparent 90 deg difference caused by a complexity of changing geometries depending on when and where the image was taken.

While the moon generally shows us the same face all the time due to tidal locking, what we see does differ somewhat. Compare the surface features of two nice images posted by Keith Breazeal and you can see they appear rotated with respect to each other.

You will see a 90 deg rotation of surface features between moonrise and moonset of the same full moon.

Yup, it's all over the place. Sometimes you'll see a telescope shot upside down. LOL

Moon 20 Feb 2011 web © Keith Breazeal by Keith Breazeal Photography, on Flickr

Moon 14 Jan 2011 300mmf2,8 1,4 extender © Keith Breazeal by Keith Breazeal Photography, on Flickr
 
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Also to keep in mind is that shooting a full moon will give you less detail in terms of contrast because the sun isn't raking across the surface creating dynamic shadows from the texture and craters.

This was shot almost 2 weeks ago on Dec. 28, 2014 on the new Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II handheld in Los Angeles.
first_quarter_moon.jpg
 
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Also, check around on sites for photo bombing opportunities.(conjuctions) I saw Jupiter was going to make a close pass with the moon. Sometimes exposures are too far apart to get both perfect, but this time it was OK. Jupiters moons are visible, but only by blowing out the planet. Once in a great while the ISS will pass close enough to the moon to get both.

Moon Jupiter Conjuction 7D 300mm 1.4x extender 2500 © Keith Breazeal by Keith Breazeal Photography, on Flickr
 
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fotoray

5D Mark III
Jul 20, 2010
198
0
aZhu said:
Also to keep in mind is that shooting a full moon will give you less detail in terms of contrast because the sun isn't raking across the surface creating dynamic shadows from the texture and craters.

This was shot almost 2 weeks ago on Dec. 28, 2014 on the new Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II handheld in Los Angeles.
first_quarter_moon.jpg

Did you intend to upload an image? :)
 
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fotoray said:
aZhu said:
Also to keep in mind is that shooting a full moon will give you less detail in terms of contrast because the sun isn't raking across the surface creating dynamic shadows from the texture and craters.

This was shot almost 2 weeks ago on Dec. 28, 2014 on the new Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II handheld in Los Angeles.
first_quarter_moon.jpg

Did you intend to upload an image? :)

Is there no image showing? I see it fine on my screen...

But just in case there isn't, follow the link below :)
http://www.andyzhu.com/forums/first_quarter_moon.jpg
 
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