I Repaired my own 50mm 1.4, and so can you!
- Thread starter Emil
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Welcome to CR Emil ... nice to have you here.Emil said:
I'd like to check out how you fixed your lens, but unfortunately, for some reason, the link you provided (http://image23photographic.blogspot.no/2012/04/fixing-stuck-focus-ring-on-canon-50mm.html) is opening up some arabic blank page ... can you please check and see.
Thanks
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Interesting.
By the way, metal becomes harder and stronger if you bend it a few times, so the resistance to bending improves. On the other hand it will also get more brittle so it will break more easily.
Happy to see this, yet another confirmation that it's a good thing I got the 50 mm Sigma instead of this...
By the way, metal becomes harder and stronger if you bend it a few times, so the resistance to bending improves. On the other hand it will also get more brittle so it will break more easily.
Happy to see this, yet another confirmation that it's a good thing I got the 50 mm Sigma instead of this...
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I've got experience doing this myself. It's not a good experience, but it's experience.
This same thing happened to me a year or so ago. I fixed it myself, but couldn't get the electronic connection back correctly. I ended up sending it to Alpine Camera in Spokane to have a lens guy work on it. In the end, it cost me 2x as much compared to if I had just sent it to them in the first place.
I'm really good at taking things apart. Not so good at putting them back together again.
So, buyer beware if you undertake this yourself. It's do-able, but just know the downside. Mamas, don't let your children make the mistakes I've done.
This same thing happened to me a year or so ago. I fixed it myself, but couldn't get the electronic connection back correctly. I ended up sending it to Alpine Camera in Spokane to have a lens guy work on it. In the end, it cost me 2x as much compared to if I had just sent it to them in the first place.
I'm really good at taking things apart. Not so good at putting them back together again.
So, buyer beware if you undertake this yourself. It's do-able, but just know the downside. Mamas, don't let your children make the mistakes I've done.
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Thanks ... I used google translate to find out what the Arabic text meant ... apparently it was warning me that this blog might contain some adult content etc ... so I just clicked a red button with some Arabic text (which apparently meant "I understand and wish to continue") and the page opened upMt Spokane Photography said:
Coming back to the subject, that is a nice step-by-step guide ... if ever my 50mm f/1.4 has a similar problem (I hope it doesn't) I'll try this out. Thanks for sharing Emil.
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I followed the same instructions around two months ago, and it looks like I will have to do the same again having dropped the lens again :-(
I did use the one link (to the site in Romania for a few additional pictures)
The instructions could be marginally improved - e.g. step 7 better explained.
What is blatantly missing are the instructions for reassembly, as the odd step or two does require the pieces in the right position, and just how tight the screws should be etc.
Having had three disassembly and assembly operations goes before my lens worked first time though I have the details now in my head....
The steps - of unclipping the element and unattaching and feeding through the cable were the most scary/difficult.
I was forced out of necessity as well. I bought the lens used, and the repair costs would have been around the same cost - and I needed the lens for an upcoming wedding quickly (private not professional).
I was glad to have performed the task - even if it did take several hours.
I do have an engineering background and some experience in such things, so I was of course less nervous than some might be!
I did use the one link (to the site in Romania for a few additional pictures)
The instructions could be marginally improved - e.g. step 7 better explained.
What is blatantly missing are the instructions for reassembly, as the odd step or two does require the pieces in the right position, and just how tight the screws should be etc.
Having had three disassembly and assembly operations goes before my lens worked first time though I have the details now in my head....
The steps - of unclipping the element and unattaching and feeding through the cable were the most scary/difficult.
I was forced out of necessity as well. I bought the lens used, and the repair costs would have been around the same cost - and I needed the lens for an upcoming wedding quickly (private not professional).
I was glad to have performed the task - even if it did take several hours.
I do have an engineering background and some experience in such things, so I was of course less nervous than some might be!
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Leejo said:
Well if you have an engineering background you must know that all screws, nuts and bolts must be tightened to the point where they make a sickening snapping noise. Then tighten it 1/4 of a turn more and you're fine!
In all seriousness, if you have a set of micro screwdrivers, the screws should never be tichtened more than you are able to achieve with the ribbed screwdriver between your fingers. Never use an extension or pliers to get more torque. All proper hand tools are designed with torque arms based on the average person's strength. Obviously this doesn't apply to adjustable spanners. Oh, and when in doubt don't overdo the torque but use a little loctite (the easy to loosen type).
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Hi, a good question but I would think that with solder being so soft a layer thick enough to actually have a reinforcing effect would be very thick. However if there is enough space a helper layer could possibly be fabricated from a similar metal and soldered in to place, solder would be strong enough in its intended use for this.
However I would not do this without looking at the mechanism from an engineering stand point as strengthening that part will impart more force to the next weakest link and cause that to fail instead. The next weakest point could be the gear teeth or some other part that is not bend back in to shape able!
Cheers Graham.
However I would not do this without looking at the mechanism from an engineering stand point as strengthening that part will impart more force to the next weakest link and cause that to fail instead. The next weakest point could be the gear teeth or some other part that is not bend back in to shape able!
Cheers Graham.
dgatwood said:
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Canon 50mm F1.4 is an example where the lens hood prevents the front element is pressed, and damaging the autofocus mechanism. Never removed the lens hood of my.
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As someone who has turned thousands of screws on cameras and lenses, be aware that although the screws look like Phillips head, they are in fact not. If you would like to prevent damage to screw heads and be able to properly tighten everything upon reassembly, a set of JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screwdrivers is recommended. I own an recommend Moody Tools in the USA, as they are one of the few tool makers still making JIS and supplying them in the US.
I went through 3 sets of Phillips micro screwdrivers before I said "enough" and special ordered a set of JIS on Amazon. After receiving them and using them, I question why it took me so long to take the plunge. If you intend to fix one lens one time, Phillips will do just fine, if you think you might start playing around with other broken cameras or lenses it's worth it to pick up a set. Magnetic handles are handy, JIS #0 and JIS #00 will take care of 99% of the screws in a camera or lens.
http://www.moodytools.com/MTI_CATALOG_PAGE_11.pdf
I went through 3 sets of Phillips micro screwdrivers before I said "enough" and special ordered a set of JIS on Amazon. After receiving them and using them, I question why it took me so long to take the plunge. If you intend to fix one lens one time, Phillips will do just fine, if you think you might start playing around with other broken cameras or lenses it's worth it to pick up a set. Magnetic handles are handy, JIS #0 and JIS #00 will take care of 99% of the screws in a camera or lens.
http://www.moodytools.com/MTI_CATALOG_PAGE_11.pdf
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Thought I'd update the thread with my success today. I replaced the aperture in a 24-105L and it is working flawlessly. Total amount spent - $418.18. Not bad considering it was my first L lens. One thing I learned while disassembling it is that it has two apertures. One normal aperture for stopping down, and another secondary aperture that closes down based on focal length (to keep the aperture constant throughout the zoom range (without it I'm guess this lens would be a 24-105mm f/2.8-4). The standard aperture in the 24-105mm is 8-bladed, the secondary aperture is 9. Just thought you would all find that interesting.
EDIT: I used these two videos to help guide me through the process -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hFR7ZG341kQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRUTrNoDD1M
EDIT: I used these two videos to help guide me through the process -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hFR7ZG341kQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRUTrNoDD1M
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KyleSTL said:
Thanks, that is interesting because it answers a question that I had in the back of my mind for a long time, ie how a constant aperture zoom works. I always suspected that the aperture is stopped down automatically at the wide end but its surprising to me that there's a second aperture in there, actually!
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