lee system

[cid]

Hi,

after I successfully ruined my 5 stop ND filter in Thailand, I started looking for replacement. One of the options is Lee system with big stopper, since I wanted more than 5 stop filter. I'm aware of all the advantages, what I'm not sure is what exactly do I need to make big stopper and maybe some grad ND work with my 16-35 f/4 and 24-70 f/2.8 II?

And since we are talking long exposures some nice, usefull, reliable remote advices are welcome too

 

[eli452]

You need:
Lee Foundation Holder Kit
Lee XXmm Wide Adapter Ring for each lens you plan to use the filters with
(77mm for the 16-35; 82mm for the 24-70)
Lee Little Stopper - 6 Stop Neutral Density ND Filter
or the
Lee Big Stopper - 10 Stop Neutral Density ND Filter
possibly the
Neutral Density Soft Edge Grad 4"x6" (100mm x 150mm)
(the soft edge is preferable for wide angle lens)

 

[cid]

thank you for info, I wasn't sure about the adapter rings

 

[lintoni]

Good advice on the filters.

I have a Hahnel Giga T II Pro remote that hasn't let me down so far. Though to be honest, since installing Magic Lantern with its intervalometer and programmable bulb, I've used it a lot less.

 

[tculotta]

You need:

Neutral Density Soft Edge Grad 4"x6" (100mm x 150mm)
(the soft edge is preferable for wide angle lens)

I would contradict the blanket statement that the soft edge is preferable for wide angle lenses. I think it is entirely dependent upon your use(s). For my purposes, I use the hard edge about 10 times for every time I pull out the soft edge and I almost exclusively use the Lee Filter system with my 16-35 (which certainly qualifies as wide angle). I firmly believe that the intended use is the driver of what filter one chooses. Of course, your mileage may vary and that is why I put the emphasis on the use.

Cheers

 

[neuroanatomist]

I have a Hahnel Giga T II Pro remote that hasn't let me down so far. Though to be honest, since installing Magic Lantern with its intervalometer and programmable bulb, I've used it a lot less.

I have one as well, and ML isn't an option for me. I did learn that when the hähnel transmitter's little coin cell battery gets low on power, it can do everything except actually send a signal – the display works, the little light turns green when you press the button, but the shutter doesn't fire. It still works as a wired remote in that case, though (and a new battery fixed the issue).

 

[cid]

I have a Hahnel Giga T II Pro remote that hasn't let me down so far. Though to be honest, since installing Magic Lantern with its intervalometer and programmable bulb, I've used it a lot less.

I have one as well, and ML isn't an option for me. I did learn that when the hähnel transmitter's little coin cell battery gets low on power, it can do everything except actually send a signal – the display works, the little light turns green when you press the button, but the shutter doesn't fire. It still works as a wired remote in that case, though (and a new battery fixed the issue).

so this receiver does not work well at all when battery is drained or it does not work well, when battery is drained AND ML installed on camera?

 

[neuroanatomist]

I have a Hahnel Giga T II Pro remote that hasn't let me down so far. Though to be honest, since installing Magic Lantern with its intervalometer and programmable bulb, I've used it a lot less.

I have one as well, and ML isn't an option for me. I did learn that when the hähnel transmitter's little coin cell battery gets low on power, it can do everything except actually send a signal – the display works, the little light turns green when you press the button, but the shutter doesn't fire. It still works as a wired remote in that case, though (and a new battery fixed the issue).

so this receiver does not work well at all when battery is drained or it does not work well, when battery is drained AND ML installed on camera?

The issue was the battery – I've found that most electronic items don't work well when the battery is drained.

Conversely, my Lee filters work just fine without batteries.

ML isn't an option for me because it doesn't (and won't) exist for the 1D X.

 

[NancyP]

Note: If you want to use a polarizer AND a ND grad or other square/rectangular filter, you should get the 105mm front-threaded Lee filter adapter ring and a 105mm polarizer, or skip the 105mm adapter and use a 4 x 4 polarizer filter. DO NOT put your 77 or 82mm polarizer on your lens and then use a wide angle adapter to screw onto the front thread of the polarizer filter. Reason is that the WA adapters are recessed, and the front half of the polarizer disappears into that recess and you can't grip it to separate the CPL from the adapter. You try to unscrew the WA adapter, and the front half of the polarizer moves. No, I haven't done this. Yes, I have talked with some people that have made this mistake. Also, my filter shop, www.2filter.com, reports having customers report this problem.

Re: Soft vs. Hard grads - It depends on your scenery. Water: abrupt flat transition from sky to earth = hard grad.
Rolling hills with forest: irregular transition from sky to earth = soft grad. I have the second case, here in the middle of the continent.

 

[Valvebounce]

Hi Nancy.
Very valid point, but I would like to say that if you are faced with both situations and only have the budget for one set of grads, the soft grads will (IMHO) work better on water than the hard grads on the rolling hills with forest scenario.

Cheers, Graham.

Re: Soft vs. Hard grads - It depends on your scenery. Water: abrupt flat transition from sky to earth = hard grad.
Rolling hills with forest: irregular transition from sky to earth = soft grad. I have the second case, here in the middle of the continent.

 

[scotia]

Hi Nancy.
Very valid point, but I would like to say that if you are faced with both situations and only have the budget for one set of grads, the soft grads will (IMHO) work better on water than the hard grads on the rolling hills with forest scenario.

Cheers, Graham.

Hi Graham,

I think this depends a lot on when you are photographing. I spend a lot of time photographing at the coast (it is my back yard) and cannot recall ever using a soft grad; with low sun soft grads give me very little benefit because the transition is too gradual to help with brightest area, which is often close to the horizon, particularly at sunrise/sunset (even here in the frozen north of the UK the sun does occasionally penetrate). I occasionally use the soft grad when photographing mountains, but I find I often don't need a grad because the contrast is not as extreme.

 

[Valvebounce]

Hi scotia.
I only own the soft grads, hence the (IMHO) I was theorising on the hard grads not being so useful for rolling hills with forest, whereas I have limited experience using soft grads for beach sunsets. I'm on the south coast, the Isle of Wight, it used to be called the Garden Isle, now they are calling it the Green Island and steadily turning it black with fields of solar panels! :'(
I have ready access to the beach, I'm completely surrounded by it! Not so much rolling hills and forest!

Cheers, Graham.

Hi Nancy.
Very valid point, but I would like to say that if you are faced with both situations and only have the budget for one set of grads, the soft grads will (IMHO) work better on water than the hard grads on the rolling hills with forest scenario.

Cheers, Graham.

Hi Graham,

I think this depends a lot on when you are photographing. I spend a lot of time photographing at the coast (it is my back yard) and cannot recall ever using a soft grad; with low sun soft grads give me very little benefit because the transition is too gradual to help with brightest area, which is often close to the horizon, particularly at sunrise/sunset (even here in the frozen north of the UK the sun does occasionally penetrate). I occasionally use the soft grad when photographing mountains, but I find I often don't need a grad because the contrast is not as extreme.

 

[cid]

I have a Hahnel Giga T II Pro remote that hasn't let me down so far. Though to be honest, since installing Magic Lantern with its intervalometer and programmable bulb, I've used it a lot less.

I have one as well, and ML isn't an option for me. I did learn that when the hähnel transmitter's little coin cell battery gets low on power, it can do everything except actually send a signal – the display works, the little light turns green when you press the button, but the shutter doesn't fire. It still works as a wired remote in that case, though (and a new battery fixed the issue).

so this receiver does not work well at all when battery is drained or it does not work well, when battery is drained AND ML installed on camera?

The issue was the battery – I've found that most electronic items don't work well when the battery is drained.

Conversely, my Lee filters work just fine without batteries.

ML isn't an option for me because it doesn't (and won't) exist for the 1D X.

indeed I was just curious if there are some specific problems with this device and batteries

 

[cid]

Note: If you want to use a polarizer AND a ND grad or other square/rectangular filter, you should get the 105mm front-threaded Lee filter adapter ring and a 105mm polarizer, or skip the 105mm adapter and use a 4 x 4 polarizer filter. DO NOT put your 77 or 82mm polarizer on your lens and then use a wide angle adapter to screw onto the front thread of the polarizer filter. Reason is that the WA adapters are recessed, and the front half of the polarizer disappears into that recess and you can't grip it to separate the CPL from the adapter. You try to unscrew the WA adapter, and the front half of the polarizer moves. No, I haven't done this. Yes, I have talked with some people that have made this mistake. Also, my filter shop, www.2filter.com, reports having customers report this problem.

Re: Soft vs. Hard grads - It depends on your scenery. Water: abrupt flat transition from sky to earth = hard grad.
Rolling hills with forest: irregular transition from sky to earth = soft grad. I have the second case, here in the middle of the continent.

thank you for valueable info, I will remember this

 

[cid]

Hi Nancy.
Very valid point, but I would like to say that if you are faced with both situations and only have the budget for one set of grads, the soft grads will (IMHO) work better on water than the hard grads on the rolling hills with forest scenario.

Cheers, Graham.

Hi Graham,

I think this depends a lot on when you are photographing. I spend a lot of time photographing at the coast (it is my back yard) and cannot recall ever using a soft grad; with low sun soft grads give me very little benefit because the transition is too gradual to help with brightest area, which is often close to the horizon, particularly at sunrise/sunset (even here in the frozen north of the UK the sun does occasionally penetrate). I occasionally use the soft grad when photographing mountains, but I find I often don't need a grad because the contrast is not as extreme.

for my needs are soft grads preferable - as far as I know there is no see within 600km from where I live, but there is lot of great mountains 8)

 

[sanjosedave]

On ebay, you can find the 'filterguy'

I purchased my holder and adapter rings from him. All seems to be working ok for me

 

[tphillips63]

Hi Nancy.
Very valid point, but I would like to say that if you are faced with both situations and only have the budget for one set of grads, the soft grads will (IMHO) work better on water than the hard grads on the rolling hills with forest scenario.

Cheers, Graham.

Re: Soft vs. Hard grads - It depends on your scenery. Water: abrupt flat transition from sky to earth = hard grad.
Rolling hills with forest: irregular transition from sky to earth = soft grad. I have the second case, here in the middle of the continent.

I love 2filter as well. I have purchased all my Lee filters from them. Very good selection, knowledgeable, helpful etc.
The large 105 polarizes are nice but you have to use the holder so if you want a smaller polarizer you might end up with regular ones too.

 

[scotia]

Hi scotia.
I only own the soft grads, hence the (IMHO) I was theorising on the hard grads not being so useful for rolling hills with forest, whereas I have limited experience using soft grads for beach sunsets. I'm on the south coast, the Isle of Wight, it used to be called the Garden Isle, now they are calling it the Green Island and steadily turning it black with fields of solar panels! :'(
I have ready access to the beach, I'm completely surrounded by it! Not so much rolling hills and forest!

Cheers, Graham.

Hi Graham,

We have lots of hills (some of them roll, others are a bit pointy) and forests too. Our equivalent of solar panels is probably wind turbines - and I am not too thrilled about them either!

One thing I did when I was making the decision about which grads to get was look at photographs of the types of locations I shoot where photographers had indicated which grads they use (someone gave me a book published by Lee as part of this research. They now have two). This confirmed what I had been told by various people. But nowhere in the UK is 600 km from the sea (and I have spent the last few years within 1km).

 

[brad-man]

On ebay, you can find the 'filterguy'

I purchased my holder and adapter rings from him. All seems to be working ok for me

I suspect you mean thefilterdude, dude 8)

http://www.ebay.com/sch/the.filter.dude/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=

 

[NancyP]

There's also an interesting 4" x 6" "reverse grad ND" filter made by Hitech (and a more expensive version made by Singh Ray). This basically has a very dark horizontal stripe with very soft gradation above and somewhat hard gradation below, meant to tone down intense sunset and sunrise. One could run a 1 stop and a 2 stop grad ND in opposite orientations to get the same effect more or less, say some filter users more experienced than myself. All I have is a 2 stop soft grad, a 3 stop reverse grad, and a 10 stop solid ND ("Big Stopper"). That's plenty to learn to use at this time.