I´m looking for literature on how to use my 600mm L II lens. Is there an existing book/article or video how to use the lens on Canon bodies taking wildlife photos?
Looking for literature on how to use 600mm L II lens
- Thread starter xps
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Step 1: attach lens to camera
Step 2: go to where there is wildlife
Step 3: point lens at said wildlife
Step 4: press shutter button
Seriously, go shoot! If anything, general books on wildlife photography are what you should be looking at, if you're new to it. For the 600mm, use a fast shutter (1/500 minimum, 1/1600 or faster for flying birds), and keep in mind that a long lens and a reasonably close subject means shallow DoF so you may often need to stop down a bit.
Step 2: go to where there is wildlife
Step 3: point lens at said wildlife
Step 4: press shutter button
Seriously, go shoot! If anything, general books on wildlife photography are what you should be looking at, if you're new to it. For the 600mm, use a fast shutter (1/500 minimum, 1/1600 or faster for flying birds), and keep in mind that a long lens and a reasonably close subject means shallow DoF so you may often need to stop down a bit.
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neuroanatomist said:Step 1: attach lens to camera
Step 2: go to where there is wildlife
Step 3: point lens at said wildlife
Step 4: press shutter button
Seriously, go shoot! If anything, general books on wildlife photography are what you should be looking at, if you're new to it. For the 600mm, use a fast shutter (1/500 minimum, 1/1600 or faster for flying birds), and keep in mind that a long lens and a reasonably close subject means shallow DoF so you may often need to stop down a bit.
;D
Well, I do so. Shot a lot in the last few weeks. But want to get all the buttons explaines, as the 8 lines of text in the lens explanation is a little bit less...
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What buttons? I recall only two on the lens (although there are four replicates of one of them).
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neuroanatomist said:Step 1: attach lens to camera
Step 2: go to where there is wildlife
Step 3: point lens at said wildlife
Step 4: press shutter button
Seriously, go shoot! If anything, general books on wildlife photography are what you should be looking at, if you're new to it. For the 600mm, use a fast shutter (1/500 minimum, 1/1600 or faster for flying birds), and keep in mind that a long lens and a reasonably close subject means shallow DoF so you may often need to stop down a bit.
Tripod, gimbal head are a help. Consider a sherpa.
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xps said:
I have never really seen any real type of books on using the 600mm or any Super Teles...but plenty of Reviews to read...just put in your search...Canon 600mm Reviews...and start looking/reading those....Some will go into great detail and some wont...but you will gain some good information.
I was in the same situation a few years ago...on how to use the Super teles and get the max usage out of them...between actually using and reading the reviews and scouring info from the web...I am doing pretty good with mine.
Keep on Shootin!
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My only advice is place one hand on the lens hood when taking photos.
It dampens vibration.
A gimbal is very useful. Pair it with a 1DX / 1DXII if you want the best out of it.
Backbutton focusing is a good idea too.
Enjoy.
If you can't take good photos with a lens like that you may as well give up.
It dampens vibration.
A gimbal is very useful. Pair it with a 1DX / 1DXII if you want the best out of it.
Backbutton focusing is a good idea too.
Enjoy.
If you can't take good photos with a lens like that you may as well give up.
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Don't know of any books, but, in my experience, the biggest problems are to be expected... 1. Lining up your shot (especially if using a crop sensor camera like the 7D2 and/or teleconvertor). Keeping vibrations to a minimum. Agree with holding the lens hood, if possible, and using a pillow to brace the lens on a rock, car hood, tree branch, etc... The lens is quite sharp. Not quite as sharp as the 300 2.8 ii. But, sharper than the 300 2.8 ii plus TC 2.0 iii.
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This is not such a preposterous request. I've read the super tele manuals many times and still don't have a handle on the use of the focus preset button and power focus, and can't get the beep associated with it to work ever. Maybe this is because video is not my thing, or I'm just stupid.
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Check out Arash Hazeghi's work:
http://ari1982.smugmug.com/
http://www.arihazeghiphotography.com/Guides/
http://arihazeghiphotography.com/blog/ef600ii_review/
The last has most of what the OP asked for specifically, along with some amazing images.
His recommendations are a bit different, e.g. handholding for BIF, don't use backbutton focusing. But the most important advice for taking good wildlife photos (with any lens/camera combination) is to learn about the biology and behavior of your subjects by spending time in the field...either on your own or, better, with birders, bird photographers, or workshop leaders.
P.S. I think most people don't find the preset and PF buttons useful--it's important to know how and when to use the focus limiter switch, and also to keep it in Mode II (or, I guess, some folks like III).
http://ari1982.smugmug.com/
http://www.arihazeghiphotography.com/Guides/
http://arihazeghiphotography.com/blog/ef600ii_review/
The last has most of what the OP asked for specifically, along with some amazing images.
His recommendations are a bit different, e.g. handholding for BIF, don't use backbutton focusing. But the most important advice for taking good wildlife photos (with any lens/camera combination) is to learn about the biology and behavior of your subjects by spending time in the field...either on your own or, better, with birders, bird photographers, or workshop leaders.
P.S. I think most people don't find the preset and PF buttons useful--it's important to know how and when to use the focus limiter switch, and also to keep it in Mode II (or, I guess, some folks like III).
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Did you not get a manual with your lens?
If not I would get one. It will tell you how to use the four preset buttons and the AF preset.
Certain bodies have different options and you can program the preset with a certain function. One option that I always used collapsed a single AF point for very fine accurate focusing. I found this very helpful on the 1D IV. Other bodies offered different options for the presets. So you need two books your owners manual for your camera and lens to make full use.
If not I would get one. It will tell you how to use the four preset buttons and the AF preset.
Certain bodies have different options and you can program the preset with a certain function. One option that I always used collapsed a single AF point for very fine accurate focusing. I found this very helpful on the 1D IV. Other bodies offered different options for the presets. So you need two books your owners manual for your camera and lens to make full use.
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This was what the 1D IV could do with the four front buttons, YMMV
C.Fn III 6
The AF stop button is provided only on super telephoto IS lenses.
0: AF stop
1: AF start
AF operates only while the button is pressed. While you hold down the
button, AF will not work on the camera.
2: AE lock
When the button is pressed, AE lock is applied. Convenient when you
want to focus and meter at different parts of the picture.
3: AF point: M 9 Auto/Auto 9 Center
In the manual AF point selection mode, the button instantly switches to
automatic AF point selection (among 45 AF points) while you hold it
down. Convenient when you are no longer able to focus track a moving
subject with a manually-selected AF point in the AI Servo AF mode.
In the automatic AF point selection mode, the button selects the center
AF point only while you hold it down.
4: ONE SHOT z AI SERVO
In the One-Shot AF mode, the camera switches to AI Servo AF mode
only while you hold down the button. And in the AI Servo AF mode, the
camera switches to One-Shot AF mode only while you hold down the
button.
Convenient when you need to keep switching between One-Shot AF
and AI Servo AF for a subject which keeps moving and stopping.
5: IS start
With the lens’ IS switch already <ON>, the Image Stabilizer operates
when you press the button. The Image Stabilizer will not operate when
you press the shutter button halfway.
6: Switch to registered AF point
While holding down the AF Stop button, press the <I> button to
switch to the registered AF point. Press it again to switch to the previous
AF point. To register the AF point, see page 224.
7: Spot AF
The focusing line sensor’s active area is made narrower to enable a
narrower part to be focused. This works in all AF modes and with any AF
point selection method. It is especially convenient during manual AF
point selection. However, since it is difficult to keep the AF point on a
moving subject, focusing might be difficult. With spot AF, the AF point
will blink brighter than usual.
7 Was my favorite, you could pick birds out of bushes much easier.
C.Fn III 6
The AF stop button is provided only on super telephoto IS lenses.
0: AF stop
1: AF start
AF operates only while the button is pressed. While you hold down the
button, AF will not work on the camera.
2: AE lock
When the button is pressed, AE lock is applied. Convenient when you
want to focus and meter at different parts of the picture.
3: AF point: M 9 Auto/Auto 9 Center
In the manual AF point selection mode, the button instantly switches to
automatic AF point selection (among 45 AF points) while you hold it
down. Convenient when you are no longer able to focus track a moving
subject with a manually-selected AF point in the AI Servo AF mode.
In the automatic AF point selection mode, the button selects the center
AF point only while you hold it down.
4: ONE SHOT z AI SERVO
In the One-Shot AF mode, the camera switches to AI Servo AF mode
only while you hold down the button. And in the AI Servo AF mode, the
camera switches to One-Shot AF mode only while you hold down the
button.
Convenient when you need to keep switching between One-Shot AF
and AI Servo AF for a subject which keeps moving and stopping.
5: IS start
With the lens’ IS switch already <ON>, the Image Stabilizer operates
when you press the button. The Image Stabilizer will not operate when
you press the shutter button halfway.
6: Switch to registered AF point
While holding down the AF Stop button, press the <I> button to
switch to the registered AF point. Press it again to switch to the previous
AF point. To register the AF point, see page 224.
7: Spot AF
The focusing line sensor’s active area is made narrower to enable a
narrower part to be focused. This works in all AF modes and with any AF
point selection method. It is especially convenient during manual AF
point selection. However, since it is difficult to keep the AF point on a
moving subject, focusing might be difficult. With spot AF, the AF point
will blink brighter than usual.
7 Was my favorite, you could pick birds out of bushes much easier.
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If you mean how to program the buttons and focus preset ring? The lens manual explains it but I don't think those are that useful for wildlife shooters. More for a sports shooter switching from the pitcher to batter. There is the focus limiter switch but I don't use it because I forget to switch it back and then I am puzzled why the lens won't focus on something. The only thing I really switch is the stabilizer. mode 1 for stationary shots and mode 3 for bif.
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I think it is very useful for birds. Certain bodies do not have the the smaller point option, but on non 1D bodies the AI Servo - One Shot Mode is very use full. My 1D IV was always accurate enough in servo mode but other bodies benefited from switching back and forth.
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takesome1 said:
I suppose having the button on the lens to switch af modes would be useful. I use the lens on a 7dii with back button focus Ai servo, large zone. I have the ae lock button programmed to switch to one shot center point so I do it that way.
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candc said:
Passerines often frequent a small number of perches in a given area, and I find it useful to have a focus preset on the most commonly used branch.
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Well there are a couple of good tips on the buttons and ring. if you want to use them don't put a lenscoat cover on.
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Not specific to the 600/4L, but might help anyone new to the 1Dx:
I normally shoot indoor sports with a fixed manual exposure mode (& constant ISO). It troubled me that I couldn't take a 'normal' photo (with significantly different lighting), without considerable effort.
"Register/recall shooting function" was the answer. Assign one button via "Custom Controls", and while pressed, you have a completely different camera in your hands: [Shooting mode, Drive mode, AF mode/case, AF zone/point selection, Aperture (wide open for my fastest lens), Shutter speed fixed (1/500 - typically fast enough for my longest lens) and Auto ISO.]
Second tip is similar, "Switch to registered AF function". My subjects fall in to two distinct (AF case) categories. Split approximately 80:20, I assign the AF function for the 20% case.
In both cases the feedback (of which mode) is obvious in the viewfinder. I tend to forget whatever I had pre-programmed on C1/2/3 modes from the previous shoot, so I only re-program those "on the day" for different events & needs. In any case a temporary settings 'override' is quicker and more effective.
For me, this keeps it simple:
1) General settings for the day's sports using Spot AF (consistent lighting): fast shutter speed (1/1000+), lowest ISO possible
...with only two options...
2) DoF/M-Fn2: switch to 61-point automatic AF (with different case)
3) "*": Take 'normal' photo with AE controlled by ISO
I normally shoot indoor sports with a fixed manual exposure mode (& constant ISO). It troubled me that I couldn't take a 'normal' photo (with significantly different lighting), without considerable effort.
"Register/recall shooting function" was the answer. Assign one button via "Custom Controls", and while pressed, you have a completely different camera in your hands: [Shooting mode, Drive mode, AF mode/case, AF zone/point selection, Aperture (wide open for my fastest lens), Shutter speed fixed (1/500 - typically fast enough for my longest lens) and Auto ISO.]
Second tip is similar, "Switch to registered AF function". My subjects fall in to two distinct (AF case) categories. Split approximately 80:20, I assign the AF function for the 20% case.
In both cases the feedback (of which mode) is obvious in the viewfinder. I tend to forget whatever I had pre-programmed on C1/2/3 modes from the previous shoot, so I only re-program those "on the day" for different events & needs. In any case a temporary settings 'override' is quicker and more effective.
For me, this keeps it simple:
1) General settings for the day's sports using Spot AF (consistent lighting): fast shutter speed (1/1000+), lowest ISO possible
...with only two options...
2) DoF/M-Fn2: switch to 61-point automatic AF (with different case)
3) "*": Take 'normal' photo with AE controlled by ISO
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