Mother of God - D800 scores 95 DxOMark

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sarangiman said:
sooooo you guys have actually got IQ180 phaseones and D800s that you are personally testing against?

Nope, and therefore I'm choosing to reserve judgement.

I think you may have missed the entire point of my post :)

I'm not anti Nikon, I'm anti troll, I used to shoot Nikon but changed to canon, I find the dynamic range arguement laughable since the entire basis is in a range of HEAVILY Pushed shadows anyway
Yeah Nikon are really punching out some good cameras this time round perhaps if they had done that a couple of years ago I might not have switched.
My main point is that these differences are tiny but being presented as epic

for a good definition of a troll have a look here
http://www.techrepublic.com/blog/career/five-online-behaviors-that-are-overused-and-misapplied/4411?tag=nl.e101
Specifically the example cited in the last sentence of item #1

I enjoy discussions where people disagree and present different view points its pretty fun :D

but the whole dynamic range thing is getting pretty tired especially since its being beaten up as the single most important aspect of photography
 
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Not sure why you're pointing to the troll thing as I myself really dislike labeling anyone as anything; perhaps I missed something in the discussions above that you're referring to.

I find the dynamic range arguement laughable since the entire basis is in a range of HEAVILY Pushed shadows anyway

Just to beat a dead horse again, this is absolutely untrue. The pushed shadows are for ease of comparisons on these types of platforms; in reality: (1) many scenes have enough dynamic range that some shadows need to be pushed so in those cases it's actually relevant; (2) in some of my photos with my 5D Mark III I can see banding even in midtones, as well as in shadows pushed even 1-2 stops in some images (I'm not saying all!).

I'm sticking w/ Canon for other reasons for now; primarily the stellar AF performance I've experienced thus far. In fact, as much as I'd like to praise the D800's sensor, the left AF point of my friend's D800 is completely messed up, heavily backfocusing in comparison to the center & right AF points. So they've got issues on their end as well. You, as the photographer, have to decide what is most important to you.

My main point is that these differences are tiny but being presented as epic

That's because they absolutely are epic for certain types of photography, & for the field of digital imaging in general. Low read-noise sensors/electronics approach ISO-less performance, which will again change photography just like WB adjustment in RAW did. ISO-less performance allows you to maintain the low ISO DR figures at any ISO. That'll be nothing short of huge for many types of photography.

IMHO anyway :)
 
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Sorry I wasn't pointing to you as a troll, I was more trying to point out that I'm not anti Nikon

I understand the sensor read noise issues and agree more could be done to reduce this

I find exposing to the right and pulling down highlights works pretty well to be honest
I just feel it is not as big a deal as it is being made out to be which causes a follow on effect of
misinformation being repeated as fact
 
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briansquibb

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wickidwombat said:
Sorry I wasn't pointing to you as a troll, I was more trying to point out that I'm not anti Nikon

I understand the sensor read noise issues and agree more could be done to reduce this

I find exposing to the right and pulling down highlights works pretty well to be honest
I just feel it is not as big a deal as it is being made out to be which causes a follow on effect of
misinformation being repeated as fact

I expose to the right and keep the iso down to 400 or less. Noise is not an issue to me (mostly because I dont get visible noise) - in fact I often add grain in pp
 

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briansquibb said:
wickidwombat said:
Sorry I wasn't pointing to you as a troll, I was more trying to point out that I'm not anti Nikon

I understand the sensor read noise issues and agree more could be done to reduce this

I find exposing to the right and pulling down highlights works pretty well to be honest
I just feel it is not as big a deal as it is being made out to be which causes a follow on effect of
misinformation being repeated as fact

I expose to the right and keep the iso down to 400 or less. Noise is not an issue to me (mostly because I dont get visible noise) - in fact I often add grain in pp

looks like it was shot on a 5Dmk3 at iso 51200 :p
 
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briansquibb

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wickidwombat said:
briansquibb said:
wickidwombat said:
Sorry I wasn't pointing to you as a troll, I was more trying to point out that I'm not anti Nikon

I understand the sensor read noise issues and agree more could be done to reduce this

I find exposing to the right and pulling down highlights works pretty well to be honest
I just feel it is not as big a deal as it is being made out to be which causes a follow on effect of
misinformation being repeated as fact

I expose to the right and keep the iso down to 400 or less. Noise is not an issue to me (mostly because I dont get visible noise) - in fact I often add grain in pp

looks like it was shot on a 5Dmk3 at iso 51200 :p

Used Nik to make it look like an asa1600 film ;D
 
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I find exposing to the right and pulling down highlights works pretty well to be honest I just feel it is not as big a deal as it is being made out to be which causes a follow on effect of misinformation being repeated as fact

Ok, fair enough. Totally valid for you if the current system works for you! But it can be game-changing for others. After all, a 3-stop difference is the difference between having to use a 3-stop Grad ND filter or not... or the difference between having to use, say, a 4stop reverse + a 3stop grad ND filter or just one of those in a really high dynamic range scene... in combination, these filters give you horrid magenta casts (even Singh-Ray ones... stacking just doesn't work well). You can also rescue more improperly exposed shots (bound to happen in fast-paced shooting scenarios), etc. etc. All been covered before.

5D Mark III's shadows (mine anyway) actually starts looking poor even earlier due to pattern noise (banding). briansquibb's 1ds3, however, has a remarkable absence of banding (from the dark frame he sent me), so he may have more salvageable files.

BTW, you may already know this, but, the idea that there's some magical extra DR in highlight headroom is a bit of a fallacy. Proper DR testing methodologies (like DXO, I'm assuming) account for this. I myself account for it in my tests by shooting multiple exposures 1/3EV apart, then finding the shot that is 1/3EV short of having, say, G1 green channel blown for the brightest wedge. That ensures that any variability in highlight headroom due to the manner in which the luminosities are mapped in the RAW file does not impact the DR calculation.
 
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Apr 24, 2012
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wickidwombat said:
I find exposing to the right and pulling down highlights works pretty well to be honest

It's a good trick that I also use a lot when the problem is the camera exposure metering.
When an image hase great highlight/shadow contrasts you risk to clip highlights.
Also, as this causes to halven the shutter speed, it's not an option when using a tele.
 
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briansquibb

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Albi86 said:
briansquibb said:
Albi86 said:
Also, as this causes to halven the shutter speed, it's not an option when using a tele.

Not sure why it isn't an option with a tele?

Eeerrr... in order to get sharp images?
Unless you're using a tripod or can arrange a very comfortable shot otherwise.

Ah - you mean at low shutter speed?
 
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Apr 24, 2012
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briansquibb said:
Albi86 said:
briansquibb said:
Albi86 said:
Also, as this causes to halven the shutter speed, it's not an option when using a tele.

Not sure why it isn't an option with a tele?

Eeerrr... in order to get sharp images?
Unless you're using a tripod or can arrange a very comfortable shot otherwise.

Ah - you mean at low shutter speed?

Depends on how low is low for you :)
Honestly, when shooting at - let's say - 300mm, I consider 1/800s to be the threshold for APS-C and 1/500s for FF.
Stabilization and individual steadyness can do a lot about it, but I never trust them too much.
 
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briansquibb

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Albi86 said:
briansquibb said:
Albi86 said:
briansquibb said:
Albi86 said:
Also, as this causes to halven the shutter speed, it's not an option when using a tele.

Not sure why it isn't an option with a tele?

Eeerrr... in order to get sharp images?
Unless you're using a tripod or can arrange a very comfortable shot otherwise.

Ah - you mean at low shutter speed?

Depends on how low is low for you :)
Honestly, when shooting at - let's say - 300mm, I consider 1/800s to be the threshold for APS-C and 1/500s for FF.
Stabilization and individual steadyness can do a lot about it, but I never trust them too much.

TBH I usually keep to the rule of 1/35mm focal length. This means I usually only handhold to about 300mm. All my long lens have the new IS which works well.
 
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Albi86 said:
Honestly, when shooting at - let's say - 300mm, I consider 1/800s to be the threshold for APS-C and 1/500s for FF. Stabilization and individual steadyness can do a lot about it, but I never trust them too much.

It's all about statistics and the keeper rate - if I shoot something that I can shoot multiple times (or even shoot, look for motion blur, shoot again) I have the experience that IS does help a lot at 300mm and I can use lower iso. But I certainly wouldn't want to depend on IS if I have only one shot.
 
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