People that don't shoot in manual...

[verysimplejason]

I shoot mainly M with DSLR and Av sometimes if I want to use flash as a fill-in flash or I'm too lazy or there isn't a wide DR to cover.

For my G11, I almost always use Av because it's very hard to adjust the shutter + aperture with the limited dial/buttons. It may change if I'm using G12 or better.

I used Tv once with Auto-ISO when I shot sports.

As for external flash, if off-cam, I always use manual mode. If on-cam, I'd use TTL. Why? Because I use on-cam mainly as a fill-in flash, off-cam as primary sources of light.

I shoot raw because I find it easier to adjust and process in the post though a slower to load.

These are my preferences. Of course, it's up to your style on what you choose.

 

[Lawliet]

Let me ask all you manual people: Do you use the light meter on your camera, or do you eyeball the exposure?

You're missing the obvious choice: the light meter. Not that in the camera, but an incident one, preferable with a multispot option. That avoids the 18% assumption, and keeps the meter from having an uninformed opinion on proper exposure just because of some random AF points may find focus or not.
It also helps with finding proper settings for each flash, no need to guess what part of a histogram might correspond to a part of the picture and solve an n-th degree equation system based on that...

 

[LewisShermer]

I may have to employ a little tact and choose my words more wisely when I start my new topic later about how I think folk that use zoom lenses over primes are just lazy and don't understand photography

 

[Sporgon]

I know the OP was half joking, but I hope he uses a handheld incident light meter to set his manual exposure.

Seriously though, I think M, Av, and Tv all rate as manual control as the exposure compensation control on these cameras is so useable; you can them see from the data how much away from the suggested 'correct' exposure you were for a particular shot.

Despite the metering sophistication and immediate histograms of modern digital an incident light meter can still be useful for putting the exposure straight on the money without having to take multiple test shots and adjusting until you are satisfied with histogram.

So to the OP: mine's a Western V ( well three actually including the one that was my fathers from 1968 !)

What's yours ?

 

[verysimplejason]

Let me ask all you manual people: Do you use the light meter on your camera, or do you eyeball the exposure?

You're missing the obvious choice: the light meter. Not that in the camera, but an incident one, preferable with a multispot option. That avoids the 18% assumption, and keeps the meter from having an uninformed opinion on proper exposure just because of some random AF points may find focus or not.
It also helps with finding proper settings for each flash, no need to guess what part of a histogram might correspond to a part of the picture and solve an n-th degree equation system based on that...

Or you can use spot metering in-camera. Spot meter on your main subject and adjust/average from there if needed. Generally, I use Average Metering for low contrast scenes and spot metering for high contrast scenes. Most of the time I prioritize the exposure of the main subject.

 

[LewisShermer]

I know the OP was half joking, but I hope he uses a handheld incident light meter to set his manual exposure.

Seriously though, I think M, Av, and Tv all rate as manual control as the exposure compensation control on these cameras is so useable; you can them see from the data how much away from the suggested 'correct' exposure you were for a particular shot.

Despite the metering sophistication and immediate histograms of modern digital an incident light meter can still be useful for putting the exposure straight on the money without having to take multiple test shots and adjusting until you are satisfied with histogram.

So to the OP: mine's a Western V ( well three actually including the one that was my fathers from 1968 !)

What's yours ?

Bloody hell, I had a weston V years ago, inherited from the first guy I ever assisted. He also gave me a real old Mamiya 645 when he retired. I totally regret selling them to fund the purchase of a Marshall amp and stack of cabs... but i was probably never going to use it in a professional capacity as everything had gone digital by then and I certainly couldn't afford a phase-1 digi-back for it.

Now in the studio I use a cheapo Sekonic L-308S just to balance the lighting. (you can't balance studio lights using the camera's in-built meter, obviously). I don't use it on the fly when shooting location, that'd be daft and a bit over kill in this modern age. I check the back of my camera like any good pro should...

 

[Lawliet]

Or you can use spot metering in-camera. Spot meter on your main subject and adjust/average from there if needed. Generally, I use Average Metering for low contrast scenes and spot metering for high contrast scenes. Most of the time I prioritize the exposure of the main subject.

The cameras meter still suffers from the 18%-problem, can't deal well with flash and isn't exactly convenient for contrast analysis or metering/establishing contrast ratios between multiple sources. (Not to think about precision. ) Like the difference between a pocket knife and a proper tool.

I'd rather set the camera for the part that is most difficult to control or to the parameters dictated by the concept and light the rest accordingly. Available light==all the lights available to me

 

[Marsu42]

The cameras meter still suffers from the 18%-problem

Um, would you please enlighten simple /me about the 18% problem, obviously it's about the grey card density, what of what are talking specifically (link, keywords to google...)? Maybe this? http://www.richardhess.com/photo/18no.htm

 

[DigiAngel]

I shoot Av with Matrix Metering 95% of the Time. With experience you know the situations when the camera is going to under/overexpose and you dial in the appropriate compensation . Like +1 when in Snow, -0.5 when in direct sunlight to minimize highlight clipping etc.

Works very well for me Also there are many Situations where you dont have time to set everything manual, like wedding reportage under stupid changing light.

 

[Sporgon]

The cameras meter still suffers from the 18%-problem

Um, would you please enlighten simple /me about the 18% problem, obviously it's about the grey card density, what of what are talking specifically (link, keywords to google...)? Maybe this? http://www.richardhess.com/photo/18no.htm

I think Lawliet is meaning the reflected light problem.

Despite all the tech, measuring the light intensity falling on the subject ( incident meter) is still useful for short cutting to the 'correct' exposure in challenging light conditions.

 

[romanr74]

a bit of a yawn...

 

[Marsu42]

I think Lawliet is meaning the reflected light problem. Despite all the tech, measuring the light intensity falling on the subject ( incident meter) is still useful for short cutting to the 'correct' exposure in challenging light conditions.

Thanks, sounds plausible!

 

[Lawliet]

what of what are talking specifically

The light meter simply has no clue what it is metering. Unless you want to shoot a gray card or something equivalent you'd have to find out the relative albedo first to get an idea of how much you have to correct the reading or rely on guesswork. Thats more trouble then taking an incidence reading in the first place, nothing gained but an opportunity to make mistakes.

 

[schill]

The cameras meter still suffers from the 18%-problem

Um, would you please enlighten simple /me about the 18% problem, obviously it's about the grey card density, what of what are talking specifically (link, keywords to google...)? Maybe this? http://www.richardhess.com/photo/18no.htm

I think Lawliet is meaning the reflected light problem.

Despite all the tech, measuring the light intensity falling on the subject ( incident meter) is still useful for short cutting to the 'correct' exposure in challenging light conditions.

Measuring the light intensity falling on my subjects usually wouldn't work. They bite.

 

[jpete03]

Getting annoyed at the way someone else shoots is like getting annoyed when the guy in front of you at Subway doesn't order the same sandwich you do.

There are plenty of real things to get annoyed over, becoming upset or annoyed over something that has zero impact on your own ability to photograph, live your live or make your own choices is asinine.

This doesn't mean there isn't merit in discussing the differences, pros and cons of each etc. But starting out with a blanket statement implying there is one 'right' way to do things and its your way is just ignorant and inflammatory.

 

[schill]

I may have to employ a little tact and choose my words more wisely when I start my new topic later about how I think folk that use zoom lenses over primes are just lazy and don't understand photography

They bite.

Like this ? It's a subject interested in photogs using manual metering and esp. semi-trolls who like engineering people into controversial threads even if it'd be an interesting topic w/o all the heat. Remember: Don't feed the troll, eh, the snake.

Sometimes.

 

[AprilForever]

AV mode for when the light conditions are changing rapidly such as on a sunny day. You will miss many moments trying to adjust shutter speed in situations like these.

Manual mode gets used when in low light and the camera is selecting shutter speeds lower than the length of the lens. eg - Camera selecting 1/60th when shooting with a 135mm.

It doesn't really matter about how people shoot with as long as they get results. The proof is in the pudding.

Haven't yet. It takes about 0.5 second to change two stops of shutter speed. Takes maybe two-three seconds to adjust both shutter and ISO.

Twill take too much time is an excuse to many people to not learn how to read light and exposure demands. It's not hard, I learned about it reading Birds As Art (birdsasart-blog.com).

Based on my wildlife experience, I have to disagree. When animals are moving I have enough to do selecting the AF point and framing the shot.

Taken in an area of varying light conditions, in manual mode. It's possible to do, with practice and effort. Birds move a lot, and require use of different af points also...

 

[LewisShermer]

Next time I'm outside in varying light conditions, I'm actually going to shoot Tv just to see if it makes life any easier.

 

[Joellll]

I realize there are car afficionados out there who love their stick shift, but why not take advantage of the dual clutch auto and all the extra speed it gives you .

Oh man..you had the analogy going VERY well, until the end there with the car attempt....<P>


For a sports car, especially a high end sports car, you want a manual transmission...if not for resale value, but for performance.

You're generally gonna get the better times and stats with manual over automatic, if you know how to drive the manual...

I've never owned a car with auto transmission, and only one car have I ever owned had more than 2 seats (that one was an '86 911 Turbo, but those rear seats aren't really useable for anything but 2x bags of groceries).....

LOL...anyway, good thoughts on the camera, but ugh...a sports car with auto transmission? A waste of good steel....

If I remember correctly, Nissan's R35 has an auto gear box that is pretty much faster than a stick shift.

 

[cayenne]

I realize there are car afficionados out there who love their stick shift, but why not take advantage of the dual clutch auto and all the extra speed it gives you .

Oh man..you had the analogy going VERY well, until the end there with the car attempt....<P>


For a sports car, especially a high end sports car, you want a manual transmission...if not for resale value, but for performance.

You're generally gonna get the better times and stats with manual over automatic, if you know how to drive the manual...

I've never owned a car with auto transmission, and only one car have I ever owned had more than 2 seats (that one was an '86 911 Turbo, but those rear seats aren't really useable for anything but 2x bags of groceries).....

LOL...anyway, good thoughts on the camera, but ugh...a sports car with auto transmission? A waste of good steel....

OMGzzzz!!1!!one!1!!!!!! I'd never even drive an automatic! I am British though, and those things are quite rare here. Why would you let the car decide what gear you need to be in?

I'm possibly the only person that will survive when the robots take over, it appears.

And besides, after you've had a couple drinks and have to drive home....having to shift keeps your attention very well centered on driving, how fast you're going...etc.

Lots of side benefits!!