Question for 6D Owners on Focus Accuracy

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Jun 1, 2013
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Hi,

I've just upgraded to a 6D from a 600D (T3i), and so far I'm very impressed with the lowlight capabilities of the camera, but I have a serious concern on the focusing accuracy. I'm finding that even though, the AF is locking on (have tested using centre and outer points) and the images look fine on the back of the camera, when I import the RAW files into Lightroom, they're soft, soft, soft. So far I've been unable to get a really sharp image, without having to seriously pile on the sharpening in post (like 100+ of sharpening).

At first I thought perhaps I had a duff kit lense, so I've gone out and shot with some of my other glass to see if they're any better. My 50mm 1.4, 70-200mm L, 40mm STM and 100mm 2.8L (which is Katana sharp on all the other bodies I've used it on) all display similar behaviour.

Have any of the other 6D owners experienced this? Did you find that you had to MFA all of your lenses to get good results? I'm finding that my keeper rate is significantly lower so far on the 6D than the 600D, which is the opposite of what I'd expect. Is there any of the default settings that I need to disable or change that might be causing an issue? I've tried shooting the auto modes to see if it's just me having problems adjusting to the FF sensor, but the images they produce are the same, really, really soft.

Any tips or advice from other 6D owners would be greatly appreciated! I've got some more test shooting to do, but I'll try and get some pictures up tomorrow to illustrate the issues I'm having.
 
The 6D is certainly capable of excellent sharpeness, and your lens selection is very good. Sounds like a AFMA is needed. In this case, your camera body may be "off". This is not necessarily a bad thing, it can probably be compensated with AFMA with each lens.

Reikan Focal is excellent for this, but you can do it manually as well. There are some good tutorials for AFMA online.

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/photography-tips/AF-Microadjustment-Tips.aspx



The Dot Tune method is not as accurate, but is something you can do quickly to evaluate your camera with different lenses.

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=13056.0
 
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Thanks for the quick reply! I've tried the dot tune method quickly on the 40mm STM, and the focusing/sharpness seems greatly improved (see attached image for an example)!

I will go through and try the other lenses and see if this sorts out the issues with those too!
 

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AFMA can make a huge difference. When I first got my 135L lens, I was frustrated since all my pictures were coming out soft with what is one of Canon's best primes. I did AFMA (-8) and now everything is razor sharp!

My 6D body must be pretty close to zero since my lenses AFMA as follows:

24-105L -1 24mm, -2 105mm
50 1.4 +5
85 1.8 +3
135L -8
70-200 2.8 0, -3

Every lens I AFMA with my 7D is generates a negative value, even my 50 1.4 and 85 1.8 that check positive on my 6D, so its important to do it for every body/lens combination.

I hope you enjoy your new 6D more now!
 
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When I get a new body, the very first thing I do is AFMA my lenses. Every body is different, and some lenses will benefit from adjustment while others will be a perfect match. If there are AF issues, the process will quickly identify the problem and the camera can be exchanged.

Some lenses have varying AF accuracy from shot to shot, there is little that can be done unless its actually a damaged lens. The consumer grade 50mm lenses typically show this, but the difference is usually only detectable with careful testing.
 
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Thanks for the recommendations guys, I bought FoCal and went through and calibrated all of the lenses after a few quick tests using the DotTune method. All I can say is wow, what a difference! Much happier now, the focus seems much, much accurate now :)
 
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I had similar issues and have improved the focus with an Eg-S focusing screen. It gives me a much better idea of where I am with focus irrespective of the confirmation light. I can see exactly what I am doing. I have one Zeiss lens and a tilt shift lens both of which focus manually. I auto focus a 400mm f5.6 lens with excellent results.
 
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I did move from a 600D to the 6D and I have to say that I am also very disapointed by it.
I was totally satisfied by the 600D. The low light capability of my 6D is amazing but sharpness is not.
My suspicion is that Canon does not do a good job in term of quality control on this camera as it seems a frequent complaint. They may consider this is "low cost " camera not worth it!
Even my EOS M seems better :(
 
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Rams_eos said:
I did move from a 600D to the 6D and I have to say that I am also very disapointed by it. My suspicion is that Canon does not do a good job in term of quality control on this camera as it seems a frequent complaint.

You cannot judge from Internet comments about the frequency of complaints b/c 100% of complaints might be posted, thus creating a huge negative bias.

Anyway, if your 6d is really *that* bad (and I'm very critical with the non-cross outer pts or the center pt with fast lenses) something's really amiss here. If you have set afma properly, your af sensor is clean (behind the mirror on the bottom) then get it serviced, at that price point your camera should really be working.
 
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Rams_eos said:
I did move from a 600D to the 6D and I have to say that I am also very disapointed by it.
I was totally satisfied by the 600D. The low light capability of my 6D is amazing but sharpness is not.
My suspicion is that Canon does not do a good job in term of quality control on this camera as it seems a frequent complaint. They may consider this is "low cost " camera not worth it!
Even my EOS M seems better :(

You don't indicate what you have tried to resolve the issue.
I just upgraded from a 5DMkII, because that camera focused unrealiably in low light. The 6D is much better in that respect, albeit only with the centre AF points.
I just AFMA'ed my lenses. Most between 0 and 5 (focused in front), but my 200/2.8 needed 20 (also focused in front). Now the focusing is spot on.
Also make sure your shutter speed is faster than 2 x focal length to ensure there is no camera movement.
 
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Almost 100%, for the 6D if the AF locks (beep and green light). means it focuses.
Never miss focus unless its user error (e.g. focusing on plain subject, focusing on vertical contrast using outerpoints). otherwise it focus everytime. even on candle lit hall way using center AF.

As I have learned in the forum. AF accuracy is dependent on Glass and Body.
AF of 6D is next to 5Diii and 1Dx. 1D4 above 6D as well. These as per result of lensrental, as I remembered.

And as opinion, lens announce starting 24-70 ii, focuses more accurately. If I remembered correctly, lensretal also have article the reason for this, something to do with new parts if I am not wrong.
 
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The few times that I have used AF on the 6D, all is fine. Since I tend to do manual focus/ magnified live view when on tripod, or manual focus / AF confirm at medium apertures, I have not felt the need to AFMA.
 
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